Stern Electronics Club (1977-1984).

(Topic ID: 225496)

Stern Electronics Club (1977-1984).


By Mitch

62 days ago



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There are 635 posts in this topic. You are on page 12 of 13.
#551 21 days ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

semicolin you can get some really weird lamp behavior if anything from the coin door harness has grounded. Not sure if that might be what you have going on but maybe worth a look.

Thanks Chalkey. Isolated coin door harness and no change. Continued occasional misfires in the bonus and guardian lamp areas, possibly others if I stare at it longer.

#552 21 days ago
Quoted from Methos:

Is there a good source for these yet?

I have gotten a few lots of them on Ebay, just need to keep looking

#553 21 days ago
Quoted from Shapeshifter:

But not so good with wiring.

Shapeshifter, it is time you start learning some basic wiring. This is the same pop assy. you have in your Catacomb. You need to remove yours and see what is going on. Your switch contacts are that little black blob on the left. It attaches with two small straight slot screws. Remove the two screws and let the switch hang. The coil is not installed on this unit.

To remove the coil, remove the two screws at the bottom (not shown). This will allow you to remove the coil stop. With coil stop removed, the coil is going to fall off of its mounting position so look the coil over closely to see how it is setting before you remove it; You will want to reinstall it the way it came off. The coli sleeve is going come out with the coil; Pay double attention to how the coil sleeve is installed. You have been advised. You can let the coil hang or you can secure it with some tie wraps.

IMG_8741 (resized).JPG

There will be two wires coming from the bottom of your pop assy. You have a wire splice mess going on in there. Don't cut any wires yet, but try to partially remove at least on pop so you can see what is going on. After you have a look and if you feel comfortable, cut your wiring as close to the splice as possible and remove the pop assy. Or don't cut anything. Just pull the pop from the play field and look around. There are only two lamp wires coming from each pop so there cannot be too much to look for.

You biggest challenge/headache is the lousy screws Stern used to put this pin together with. They are a shallow head bolt. They are not magnetic. They are a pain in the ass to reinstall; You will learn to miss Phillips head screws.

The good news is that your pops do not have to be lit for you to play your pin. I don't not have my Catacomb pops lit up and I have good times playing. Lit pops have just not been a priority for me at this time but I will get there.

If you run into problems, send me an email.

IMG_8743 (resized).JPG
IMG_8744 (resized).JPG

#554 20 days ago

Well got the games Saturday the Dracula is dead has an Alltek mpu with a solid on led I'm going to replace the rectifier board, the Stingray is somewhat living with a couple of coils out has anyone ever produced a repro of the often missing center seashell plastic?

#555 20 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Shapeshifter, it is time you start learning some basic wiring. This is the same pop assy. you have in your Catacomb. You need to remove yours and see what is going on. Your switch contacts are that little black blob on the left. It attaches with two small straight slot screws. Remove the two screws and let the switch hang. The coil is not installed on this unit.
To remove the coil, remove the two screws at the bottom (not shown). This will allow you to remove the coil stop. With coil stop removed, the coil is going to fall off of its mounting position so look the coil over closely to see how it is setting before you remove it; You will want to reinstall it the way it came off. The coli sleeve is going come out with the coil; Pay double attention to how the coil sleeve is installed. You have been advised. You can let the coil hang or you can secure it with some tie wraps.
[quoted image]
There will be two wires coming from the bottom of your pop assy. You have a wire splice mess going on in there. Don't cut any wires yet, but try to partially remove at least on pop so you can see what is going on. After you have a look and if you feel comfortable, cut your wiring as close to the splice as possible and remove the pop assy. Or don't cut anything. Just pull the pop from the play field and look around. There are only two lamp wires coming from each pop so there cannot be too much to look for.
You biggest challenge/headache is the lousy screws Stern used to put this pin together with. They are a shallow head bolt. They are not magnetic. They are a pain in the ass to reinstall; You will learn to miss Phillips head screws.
The good news is that your pops do not have to be lit for you to play your pin. I don't not have my Catacomb pops lit up and I have good times playing. Lit pops have just not been a priority for me at this time but I will get there.
If you run into problems, send me an email.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Thanks for this.

Will start investigating!

Have seen a wire is stuck under the pop bumper plastic frame so that is first change...

#556 20 days ago

And, just bought pavball and I’s fourth classic stern. Joining our Quicksilver, Catacomb and Seawitch is (this photo was from HAAG a couple weeks ago, but this is our new game):

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#557 19 days ago
Quoted from TigerLaw:

And, just bought pavball and I’s fourth classic stern. Joining our Quicksilver, Catacomb and Seawitch is (this photo was from HAAG a couple weeks ago, but this is our new game):
[quoted image]

Looks grand ! Is it clear coated?

#558 19 days ago

Well my buddy bought a house and he'll be taking his Trident that I've been housekeeping for years pretty shortly. I figured it was time to snag another to fill the spot. Always happy to get one you don't see too often (though no official production numbers on IPDB).

Also as noted above with the strange harnesses, when I was unplugging the rectifier I saw the coin door harness is for a Lightning... It must have been total grab whatever works.

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#559 18 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Looks grand ! Is it clear coated?

Yes it is. I’m going to do some touch up work on the cabinet but it looks pretty great. Will post some photos when I pick it up.

#560 13 days ago

Has anyone purchased the Classic Arcades Dracula translite? My bg is fairly rough I know BG Resto has done it but this is a budget resto.

#561 13 days ago
Quoted from TomT:

Has anyone purchased the Classic Arcades Dracula translite? My bg is fairly rough I know BG Resto has done it but this is a budget resto.

Classic Arcades is less than budget, it will be shit. Search for all the disappointed customers on pinside. Don't be fooled!

#562 12 days ago
Quoted from eh97ac:

Classic Arcades is less than budget, it will be shit. Search for all the disappointed customers on pinside. Don't be fooled!

I've bought a few items from him over the years and they certainly do not belong in a "restored game".

However, everything has it's place. For a budget game you just want flipping, tournament game for a show, or a game on route, I believe they are fine.

#563 12 days ago
Quoted from eh97ac:

Classic Arcades is less than budget, it will be shit. Search for all the disappointed customers on pinside. Don't be fooled!

I've purchased from them a few times in the past I know the quality can be suspect.

#564 12 days ago
Quoted from statictrance:

Well my buddy bought a house and he'll be taking his Trident that I've been housekeeping for years pretty shortly. I figured it was time to snag another to fill the spot. Always happy to get one you don't see too often (though no official production numbers on IPDB).
Also as noted above with the strange harnesses, when I was unplugging the rectifier I saw the coin door harness is for a Lightning... It must have been total grab whatever works.

Nice find! I married into a circus family, so I've been on the lookout for a Split Second machine around me. Keep us posted on your progress.

#565 12 days ago
Quoted from fissionch1ps:

Nice find! I married into a circus family, so I've been on the lookout for a Split Second machine around me. Keep us posted on your progress.

Where are you located. It doesnt say.

#566 12 days ago
Quoted from Mitch:

Where are you located. It doesnt say.

I updated my settings. I’m in Florida.

#567 12 days ago

Looking for some drop target return springs, 5A-171. What's a good substitute? The DE/Sega/Stern current spring? https://www.pinballlife.com/data-eastsegastern-drop-target-spring.html

#568 12 days ago
Quoted from CaffeineSlug:

Looking for some drop target return springs, 5A-171. What's a good substitute? The DE/Sega/Stern current spring? https://www.pinballlife.com/data-eastsegastern-drop-target-spring.html

For which pin? Stern used two types of drop springs that I know of. One is long like the pic you showed and one is shorter.

#569 12 days ago

This would be for Meteor.

#570 11 days ago
Quoted from CaffeineSlug:

This would be for Meteor.

This drop assembly is from a Big Game. There is a cross tube mounted that the springs attach to. The cross tube and short springs are used in Big Game, and all of the Sterns that came after.

IMG_8783 (resized).JPG

The Meteor drop target assemblies I have do not use the crossover tube. Instead, the springs are the longer springs that attach to the lift blades down in the bottom of the assembly.

The pic you linked from Pinball Life is the correct longer spring.

#571 11 days ago

Anybody seriously interested (not casually curious) in a Boston area "Big Game" - PM me.
Playing correct B+ copy with an Alltek CPU.
$1,675

#572 11 days ago

A bit of troubleshooting help...

I bought brand new flipper mechs for my Dragonfist from Pinball Life. I installed the right side last night. I moved the wires over 1 by 1 from the old mech to the new mech. I realized quickly that the flipper was getting weaker. Lifted the playfield and found the coil was hot. Shut game off, let it cool a few minutes. Double checked the EOS switches and all my soldering connections, seemed okay. Tried playing again, this time each time I flipped the right side the lights in the game flickered and after about 4-5 flips the game just shut off completely. Now it won't do anything. No LED comes on at all with the MPU, nothing happens at all on the game at the moment.

Any ideas what just happened?

#573 11 days ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

I bought brand new flipper mechs for my Dragonfist from Pinball Life. I installed the right side last night. I moved the wires over 1 by 1 from the old mech to the new mech. I realized quickly that the flipper was getting weaker. Lifted the playfield and found the coil was hot. Shut game off, let it cool a few minutes. Double checked the EOS switches and all my soldering connections, seemed okay. Tried playing again, this time each time I flipped the right side the lights in the game flickered and after about 4-5 flips the game just shut off completely. Now it won't do anything. No LED comes on at all with the MPU, nothing happens at all on the game at the moment.
Any ideas what just happened?

It does not matter what lugs you put the wires on, it matters what wires are connected to the proper diode sides (anode vs. cathode). Compare your old coil's diode orientation to the new coil's diodes. Not all are the same.
Screen Shot 2018-11-07 at 2.16.41 PM (resized).png

#574 11 days ago

Blown fuse? Did you have a flyback diode in place on the flipper solenoid?

#575 11 days ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

A bit of troubleshooting help...
I bought brand new flipper mechs for my Dragonfist from Pinball Life. I installed the right side last night. I moved the wires over 1 by 1 from the old mech to the new mech. I realized quickly that the flipper was getting weaker. Lifted the playfield and found the coil was hot. Shut game off, let it cool a few minutes. Double checked the EOS switches and all my soldering connections, seemed okay. Tried playing again, this time each time I flipped the right side the lights in the game flickered and after about 4-5 flips the game just shut off completely. Now it won't do anything. No LED comes on at all with the MPU, nothing happens at all on the game at the moment.
Any ideas what just happened?

The coils can be installed in the brackets with the lugs pointing in either direction. Are the old and news coils installed in the same direction in the brackets? If not and you were not playing attention it would be possible to wire them up backwards.

This is a left hand side from a Meteor. THe blue/white power wire is on the left lug. The right hand side will be the same way except the green wire on the left will be an orange wire on the right hand side.

If you are holding the coil in the other direction then the blue/white power wire would on your right hand side instead of your left.

IMG_8789 (resized).JPG

#576 11 days ago
Quoted from ejg10532626:

Anybody seriously interested (not casually curious) in a Boston area "Big Game" - PM me.
Playing correct B+ copy with an Alltek CPU.
$1,675

Might you post some pics?
Just out of curiosity.
But 'ya know might help the sale.

#577 11 days ago

Can someone recomend a set of replacement legs for my Stern Lightning?

Thanks

#578 11 days ago

Working on a stern seawitch. Was wondering if anyone is making the fuse sticker on the rectifier plate?

#579 11 days ago
Quoted from jkashani:

Can someone recomend a set of replacement legs for my Stern Lightning?
Thanks

Pinball Resource.

http://pbresource.com/legs.html

Bally leg. part number: #LEG-28GR

Dark Grey non-ribbed.

#580 10 days ago
Quoted from Tallon:

Working on a stern seawitch. Was wondering if anyone is making the fuse sticker on the rectifier plate?

http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/

I just printed one out & glued it on

#581 10 days ago
Quoted from Tallon:

Working on a stern seawitch. Was wondering if anyone is making the fuse sticker on the rectifier plate?

http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/Stern/Stern_SS-series_MPU-200_fuse_label.zip

#582 10 days ago

So it was the furthest fuse to the right on the rectifier board, it tested okay but swapping it out made the game come back to life. My right flipper is still causing the lights to flicker, I only gave it 2 flips this time before shutting it off. I double checked my wiring from the original and its definitely correct. I tried swapping the EOS wires and no change. I replaced the diodes on the coil itself (the coil is brand new from Pinball Life), any other ideas?

#583 10 days ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

So it was the furthest fuse to the right on the rectifier board, it tested okay but swapping it out made the game come back to life. My right flipper is still causing the lights to flicker, I only gave it 2 flips this time before shutting it off. I double checked my wiring from the original and its definitely correct. I tried swapping the EOS wires and no change. I replaced the diodes on the coil itself (the coil is brand new from Pinball Life), any other ideas?

Does it work fine if you put the old parts back in?

#584 10 days ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

So it was the furthest fuse to the right on the rectifier board, it tested okay but swapping it out made the game come back to life. My right flipper is still causing the lights to flicker, I only gave it 2 flips this time before shutting it off. I double checked my wiring from the original and its definitely correct. I tried swapping the EOS wires and no change. I replaced the diodes on the coil itself (the coil is brand new from Pinball Life), any other ideas?

Quoted from chuckwurt:

Does it work fine if you put the old parts back in?

Good question. I got a defective coil from PBR one time. Maybe the coil is defective.

#585 10 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Good question. I got a defective coil from PBR one time. Maybe the coil is defective.

I'll give it a shot after school and see what happens.

#586 10 days ago

Thank You

Quoted from cottonm4:

Pinball Resource.
http://pbresource.com/legs.html
Bally leg. part number: #LEG-28GR
Dark Grey non-ribbed.

#587 10 days ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

So it was the furthest fuse to the right on the rectifier board, it tested okay but swapping it out made the game come back to life. My right flipper is still causing the lights to flicker, I only gave it 2 flips this time before shutting it off. I double checked my wiring from the original and its definitely correct. I tried swapping the EOS wires and no change. I replaced the diodes on the coil itself (the coil is brand new from Pinball Life), any other ideas?

You removed the fuse and it had continuity?

It reads like you’re having flyback. Test your solenoid and diodes thoroughly.

It’s possible you could have a something making contact near the flipper due to the slight jostling.

You could call pinball life too, they may have a tech that could walk you through their checks.

#588 10 days ago

tsskinne did you make sure your EOS was properly gapped on the resting position as well as "flipper up" when fully assembled? I've seen people burn up a coil because they set the gap when wiring the eos switch but before installing the coil stop (stops the flipper sooner).

I'd make sure that the flipper assembly is still fully free moving. Starting to get weaker could be the coil / sleeve starting to deform due to heat. If the coil heated up that much it'll continue to cause fuse issues etc even if you resolve the root cause. You can check the resistance at the lugs vs youe working coil.

#589 10 days ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

tsskinne did you make sure your EOS was properly gapped on the resting position as well as "flipper up" when fully assembled? I've seen people burn up a coil because they set the gap when wiring the eos switch but before installing the coil stop (stops the flipper sooner).
I'd make sure that the flipper assembly is still fully free moving. Starting to get weaker could be the coil / sleeve starting to deform due to heat. If the coil heated up that much it'll continue to cause fuse issues etc even if you resolve the root cause. You can check the resistance at the lugs vs youe working coil.

Solid advice. It could be stuck in high voltage and is just toasting everything.

#590 10 days ago
Quoted from fissionch1ps:

Solid advice. It could be stuck in high voltage and is just toasting everything.

Yeah I don't set the EOS until the flipper is installed, but good to double check it.

#591 9 days ago

What are you guys using as a replacement speaker in the early Sterns?

#592 9 days ago
Quoted from TomT:

What are you guys using as a replacement speaker in the early Sterns?

You could try one of these:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-6-inch-speakers-found

#593 9 days ago
Quoted from TomT:

What are you guys using as a replacement speaker in the early Sterns?

amazon.com link »

#594 9 days ago
Quoted from eh97ac:

amazon.com link »

this is the one i used also

#595 9 days ago

Thanks guys I have one on order.

#596 8 days ago

Hey folks!

I’ve recently started building my own Orbitor 1. Thread here:
https://www.pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/orbitor-1-a-scratch-build-reaching-for-the-stars

I’m glad there are new speakers I can use for the cabinet as I need ALL the hardware.

Are there any options for the transformer and other items? Also can anyone provide great pictures of the backbox for me?

#597 7 days ago

Does anyone have any nos stern drop targets or and used ones (any condition) they would sell. Dont care what game they are from.

Send me a pm.

#598 7 days ago

Setup both quicksilvers. One will be for sale soon.

CC65715B-D06E-4881-9BA3-BAEC4C7FABF6 (resized).jpeg

Archived after 0 days
652 views
Sold for $ 5,000
Contributed to Pinside
Machine - For Sale
Used - shows wear, needs some work “Selling a project Quicksilver. Currently non-functional. I assume anyone buying this rare game will restore it.”
2018-11-12
Austin, MN
5,000 (OBO)

#599 7 days ago

If you were making an apron for Quicksilver, which of these two machines is generally regarded as the correct color scheme?

#600 7 days ago
Quoted from Mitch:

Does anyone have any nos stern drop targets or and used ones (any condition) they would sell. Dont care what game they are from.
Send me a pm.

I may have a few with different colored Stars.

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