Thanks for the input. It might be something minor, but I didn't even really want to power it up untill I go through all the pinwiki initial steps.

I think I paid $1300 for a working players condition one. I did a resto on it a little while ago. Grab a Roy G Bev board and throw the BSOS code on it and it’s a lot of fun.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/trident-2020-restoration-

Btw I worked with Jeff Miller aka the pinball pimp to get the cabinet art scanned to make stencils. He sells them now on his website. Jeff is a cool guy and makes great stencils. Hit him up.

Saw your post, your machine looks awesome. Redoing the cab would be a fun project in itself, but I'd have to wait for warmer weather. Maybe come spring time. For now I am going to work my way through the boards recapping / repining / etc.

This is very good practice, in my opinion. I don't power on any games I buy until I've gone over the basics first: verify fuses are correct rating and type (I'm yet to find a game that had all the correct fuses installed), then get on to upgrades/repairs on the rectifier & sdu, verify good voltages etc etc etc. I also like to leave the other boards unplugged until I have my voltages etc proper first. Pinwiki should have you covered

For those that have scratch built or partially built a Seawitch, did anyone keep track of where to source everything?
I need a project and this is one I have been seriously considering.
I know where to get most of the parts, but what parts are considered difficult to find?

Lockdown bar, 3 bank and 4 bank drop targets, the correct transformer.

And that glass is nicer than most.

Another Nine ball has surfaced. Overall, it’s in marginal shape. Lots of wiring hacks though.

This will get added to the restore queue that I have. So a couple years from now.

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Your play field is in pretty good shape.

all the unobtanium stuff looking good, nice resto base!

Seawitch playfields now available at CPR:

https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-playfields/seawitch-2/

Yep, EBD is another good restore project. Not picture: Dolly Parton. A complete wreck. But we'll save her and make her pretty again too.

Seawitch playfields available.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-production-seawitch-playfields

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Good morning

Need a set of led display for my Flight 2000... what the best option out there... which one do you like the most? Any pics with differents color display?

https://www.pinitech.com/products/ballystern_display_uno.php

I know a lot of you are doing scratch builds and Re-bodies. I wanted to sell my Seawitch playfields with an option of offering a fully populated drop in replacement, potentially with the full kit to assemble the entire machine. I’ve reached out to a few people making wire harnesses and drop targets. Often the small run production costs on these parts makes the project seem unfeasible. If there is interest, we can put together a parts list and cost it out. Maybe a bulk buy of 100 full kits would make it feasible. Anyone want to take on the shopping list as a project?

I would totally be interested! Even if there was just a way to know where to procure parts for the build. Some people might have some components already and don’t need everything.

The displays are white. You get a set of color panels/windows to go on top of each display. You can order just about any color of window panel you want.

The Wolfpacc ones are good and inexpensive if you enjoy some simple soldering work. You can also mix and match colors. The pinitech ones are great too. I used pinitech on my Meteor, and Wolfpacc on my Trident (green for the upper two, blue for the lower two, and white for the ball and credit).
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OK. Here is what I got from Kerry at Mantis. I still need to ask him some questions about some other items. This is what I received yesterday.

I got both styles of back glass locking straps.

The sample I sent out was the early style with the spot welded hold down brackets/lugs. It is on the left in this pic. You can see the square hole is there and clocked into the proper position (along with my bare feet).

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With the strap with no lugs and the trim channel from Marco Specialities you now have the option of being able to lock your back glass down.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/P-6229-27

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NOTE: For the early style with the lugs attached, I'm guessing it will work with the Marco trim channel as is. If not, the brackets on the strip can be cut off or you can just get some plastic trim strip and make it happen.

so, someone making drop target mechs????? those to me are the biggest hurdle, scavenging and parting out other games for mechs only goes so far.

Another vote for Pinitech. These are displays that I just did last week for a customer's Star Trek. With the smoke filter installed (not installed in pic), these displays are gorgeous!

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I got my Flight 2000 drop target bank over the weekend, which I bought with the intention of doing a Nine Ball scratch build. The obvious next question is, can I get additional lift arms and "knockdown" arms anywhere? Is that the sort of thing that would have to be scavenged off of other drop banks?

All of which raises the point again that reproduction drop targets would be a real boon to the hobby at this point!

Here come the Nine Balls.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/123090

Repro cabinets are available.

Repro back glasses are available.

Mantis makes the ball guides.

Mantis is making lockdown bar receivers.

Third Coast Pinball makes the wire harnesses.

Pinball Pimp makes cabinet stencils.

Legs, levelers, flipper buttons and all other various and sundry items are available.

Alltek and Weebly for circuit boards
====================================

The pinch points for scratch builds are:

1) Lockdown bars ( Stern now uses spring clips to attach the lockdown bars to the cabinet. No receiver would be needed. ).

2) Drop target cages/assemblies

3) Stern style coin doors. ( Since the target market would be for home machines, an empty coin door shell that accepts no coins would be all that is needed).

4) Aprons

5) Stern style shooter rods.

I think many of the suppliers for most of the items that are currently available are mostly one-man operations. The nightmare? A sure source of supply today could be gone tomorrow.

A Bally lockdown also works. Just need to use different playfield hangers and install correctly. I did this on my Galaxy.
I bought a shooter rod also. I need to look back on where I got it.
Drop targets and aprons definitely tough to track down.

You'll have to part out other drop target banks at this point, but keep in mind that some are needed for builds so shouldn't be parted.

The drop target banks needed for builds are:
3 bank - Seawitch, Star Gazer, Quicksilver, Cheetah and Nine Ball
4 bank - Seawitch, Quicksilver
5 bank with memory coils - Cheetah

cottonm4 Can you ask Kerry at Mantis is he can make knockdown bars and lift arms? I have a couple of drop target banks missing this part.

Just picked up this playfield and noted something odd. The colours are orange instead of blue?

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There is also the transformer panel needed. I think the Homepin Bally one would work? https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=AS-2877-1

Thanx for doing this, cottonm4 . Please let me know if (when!) you're ready to take orders. I'm good for one back glass locking strap WITHOUT the lugs (my top glass channel already has them).

Thanx!

Let me flesh this out a little bit. Kerry will not put them up for sale until I give my blessings.

Here we go.

The strap with out the lugs is working good in my Nine Ball/ now Quicksilver back box. This one is good to go.

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I have tried both my OG strap with the lugs and the Mantis unit with the lugs.

This is Mantis.

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This is original. They both work. But there is a "but". The lugged unit works and works well, but it it tight for getting the key lock twisted to lock position. I am going to recommend for Kerry to add 1/16" more offset on the lugs.

You can see I have a black plastic trim strip on my Catacomb back glass and it leaves no room for error; If someone has a trim strip that is just a little thicker then the lugs will not work; It is that tight of fit. Adding 1/16" to the lug offset should not hurt anything but I am looking for others experience and opinions on this lugged unit and making a small 1/16" mod.

Anybody have any problems with me having 1/16" added to the lug offset? I need to get this right the first time.

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You ain’t kiddin!
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This ones much more of a project than the $9k Nine Balls, but we’ll get there eventually!

A cabinet paint job and a Mirco play field and you are good to go

OK. Kerry already has the lugged units already made up so this is what you will get. It is tight but it works. If you are the type that leaves the key hanging in the key lock then the lugged strap will roll back a little bit and your back glass will not be locked. To maintain locked condition you will need to pull the key partially out of the ket slot; Keep that in mind if you are moving the back box around with the glass installed.

I'm going to tell him to go ahead and put them up for sale.

Cab actually is actually pretty decent, I’ll probably leave it original. Seriously needs a new backglass however. I’ll wait for the CPR year end sale to grab one.

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Has he fixed the missing text yet?

I think so but mine is an early play field with out the text. I don't know.

yep i got an updated one, looks good

I am enjoying looking at these keys dangling.

Catacomb with the strap with the spot welded lugs.

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And Quicksilver with the plain no-lug strap.

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Those keys just look super.

And here is another part from Kerry at Mantis.

I have one shooter lane ball stop guide that is nice and shiny chrome. All of my others are a corroded mess. Kerry is now making these from brushed stainless steel. I'm trying to decide if I want to mirror finish it on the buffing wheel or just go with the brushed look.

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I would say mirror for the collector.
Brushed look for the player.
Just an opinion.

This is a list I started for the major parts. I still need to fill out coil numbers and qty of posts and hardware.....etc.

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Marcos buys 95% of their pop bumper caps from PBR and marks them up 50% or more. PBR also sells coils, sleeves, posts, hardware, shooter rods, etc. If you buy $100 or more from PBR you get a 10% discount, so I recommend comparing pricing from both companies.

nice. you can buy 3 bank DT from Pinball Life as well, but the target will obviously not look right. I did a mock up of one of their targets with a Gottlieb drop target head in fusion 360 just for fun. Did gottlieb because I had one on hand, same could be done for Stern, Bally etc. It sounds like the swinks 3d printed targets from shapeways work pretty well, though expensive, but I might give this a shot at some point.

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Thanks, that is a big help. Thinking I can disassemble my Virtual Pinball that I don't play much and use that as a base. It is an old Bally Harlem Globetrotters cabinet.

Is the 3 bank on my F2K the same as the other titles? If so, I can start with that and look into designing a replacement 3 bank. I think it would be nice to have a memory select so the rule set could be deepened, but I will have to figure out the production cost, ideally keeping a replacement assembly under $100.

if you do the 3 it should be fairly straight forward to expand to a 4 bank as well.