(Topic ID: 225496)

Stern Electronics Club (1977-1984).

By Mitch

3 years ago


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#5801 40 days ago
Quoted from DudeRegular:

Not working I would say in the 800-1000 range these days. Hopefully just a rectifier or MPU gets you up and running.

Thanks for the input. It might be something minor, but I didn't even really want to power it up untill I go through all the pinwiki initial steps.

#5802 40 days ago
Quoted from Pinash:

How much would you guys pay for a non playing, but complete project condition Trident? Just wondering how much I overpaid
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I think I paid $1300 for a working players condition one. I did a resto on it a little while ago. Grab a Roy G Bev board and throw the BSOS code on it and it’s a lot of fun.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/trident-2020-restoration-

#5803 40 days ago
Quoted from Pinash:

How much would you guys pay for a non playing, but complete project condition Trident? Just wondering how much I overpaid
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Btw I worked with Jeff Miller aka the pinball pimp to get the cabinet art scanned to make stencils. He sells them now on his website. Jeff is a cool guy and makes great stencils. Hit him up.

#5804 40 days ago
Quoted from bigguybbr:

I think I paid $1300 for a working players condition one. I did a resto on it a little while ago. Grab a Roy G Bev board and throw the BSOS code on it and it’s a lot of fun.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/trident-2020-restoration-

#5805 40 days ago

Saw your post, your machine looks awesome. Redoing the cab would be a fun project in itself, but I'd have to wait for warmer weather. Maybe come spring time. For now I am going to work my way through the boards recapping / repining / etc.

#5806 40 days ago
Quoted from Pinash:

Thanks for the input. It might be something minor, but I didn't even really want to power it up untill I go through all the pinwiki initial steps.

This is very good practice, in my opinion. I don't power on any games I buy until I've gone over the basics first: verify fuses are correct rating and type (I'm yet to find a game that had all the correct fuses installed), then get on to upgrades/repairs on the rectifier & sdu, verify good voltages etc etc etc. I also like to leave the other boards unplugged until I have my voltages etc proper first. Pinwiki should have you covered

#5807 38 days ago

For those that have scratch built or partially built a Seawitch, did anyone keep track of where to source everything?
I need a project and this is one I have been seriously considering.
I know where to get most of the parts, but what parts are considered difficult to find?

#5808 38 days ago
Quoted from SR230CC:

For those that have scratch built or partially built a Seawitch, did anyone keep track of where to source everything?
I need a project and this is one I have been seriously considering.
I know where to get most of the parts, but what parts are considered difficult to find?

Lockdown bar, 3 bank and 4 bank drop targets, the correct transformer.

#5809 37 days ago
Quoted from DudeRegular:

Not working I would say in the 800-1000 range these days. Hopefully just a rectifier or MPU gets you up and running.

And that glass is nicer than most.

#5810 36 days ago

Another Nine ball has surfaced. Overall, it’s in marginal shape. Lots of wiring hacks though.

This will get added to the restore queue that I have. So a couple years from now.

C4378A78-75D5-4BC5-9A97-72A261EFCC58 (resized).jpeg

#5811 36 days ago
Quoted from djblouw:

Another Nine ball has surfaced. Overall, it’s in marginal shape. Lots of wiring hacks though.
This will get added to the restore queue that I have. So a couple years from now.
[quoted image]

Your play field is in pretty good shape.

#5812 36 days ago
Quoted from djblouw:

Another Nine ball has surfaced. Overall, it’s in marginal shape. Lots of wiring hacks though.
This will get added to the restore queue that I have. So a couple years from now.
[quoted image]

all the unobtanium stuff looking good, nice resto base!

#5813 35 days ago
Quoted from djblouw:

Another Nine ball has surfaced. Overall, it’s in marginal shape. Lots of wiring hacks though.
This will get added to the restore queue that I have. So a couple years from now.
[quoted image]

Looks like a solid place to start from what we can see in the pics! Also spy EBD behind it. I love that one too.

#5815 35 days ago
Quoted from DudeRegular:

Looks like a solid place to start from what we can see in the pics! Also spy EBD behind it. I love that one too.

Yep, EBD is another good restore project. Not picture: Dolly Parton. A complete wreck. But we'll save her and make her pretty again too.

#5816 35 days ago

Seawitch playfields available.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-production-seawitch-playfields

DC317574-5DEC-4B53-9AF4-7A9B61148C4C (resized).jpegFB69A8A6-CCEB-4124-98B0-344A97F2A1FC (resized).jpeg
#5817 34 days ago

Good morning

Need a set of led display for my Flight 2000... what the best option out there... which one do you like the most? Any pics with differents color display?

#5819 34 days ago

I know a lot of you are doing scratch builds and Re-bodies. I wanted to sell my Seawitch playfields with an option of offering a fully populated drop in replacement, potentially with the full kit to assemble the entire machine. I’ve reached out to a few people making wire harnesses and drop targets. Often the small run production costs on these parts makes the project seem unfeasible. If there is interest, we can put together a parts list and cost it out. Maybe a bulk buy of 100 full kits would make it feasible. Anyone want to take on the shopping list as a project?

#5820 34 days ago
Quoted from FantasticPinball:

I know a lot of you are doing scratch builds and Re-bodies. I wanted to sell my Seawitch playfields with an option of offering a fully populated drop in replacement, potentially with the full kit to assemble the entire machine. I’ve reached out to a few people making wire harnesses and drop targets. Often the small run production costs on these parts makes the project seem unfeasible. If there is interest, we can put together a parts list and cost it out. Maybe a bulk buy of 100 full kits would make it feasible. Anyone want to take on the shopping list as a project?

I would totally be interested! Even if there was just a way to know where to procure parts for the build. Some people might have some components already and don’t need everything.

#5821 34 days ago
Quoted from Redketchup:

Good morning
Need a set of led display for my Flight 2000... what the best option out there... which one do you like the most? Any pics with differents color display?

The displays are white. You get a set of color panels/windows to go on top of each display. You can order just about any color of window panel you want.

#5822 34 days ago
Quoted from Redketchup:

Good morning
Need a set of led display for my Flight 2000... what the best option out there... which one do you like the most? Any pics with differents color display?

The Wolfpacc ones are good and inexpensive if you enjoy some simple soldering work. You can also mix and match colors. The pinitech ones are great too. I used pinitech on my Meteor, and Wolfpacc on my Trident (green for the upper two, blue for the lower two, and white for the ball and credit).
IMG_2415 (resized).JPGIMG_2482 (resized).JPG

#5823 34 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I just traded an email with Kerry at Mantis. He has some parts ready to send to me for evaluation. I will be leaving town on Thursday and returning on Monday and have asked him to coordinate his shipping to match my arrival home.
Sometime next week I should have something to share with everybody.

OK. Here is what I got from Kerry at Mantis. I still need to ask him some questions about some other items. This is what I received yesterday.

I got both styles of back glass locking straps.

The sample I sent out was the early style with the spot welded hold down brackets/lugs. It is on the left in this pic. You can see the square hole is there and clocked into the proper position (along with my bare feet).

IMG_8084 (resized).JPG

IMG_8085 (resized).JPG

IMG_8086 (resized).JPG

With the strap with no lugs and the trim channel from Marco Specialities you now have the option of being able to lock your back glass down.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/P-6229-27

IMG_8087 (resized).JPG

NOTE: For the early style with the lugs attached, I'm guessing it will work with the Marco trim channel as is. If not, the brackets on the strip can be cut off or you can just get some plastic trim strip and make it happen.

#5824 34 days ago
Quoted from FantasticPinball:

I know a lot of you are doing scratch builds and Re-bodies. I wanted to sell my Seawitch playfields with an option of offering a fully populated drop in replacement, potentially with the full kit to assemble the entire machine. I’ve reached out to a few people making wire harnesses and drop targets. Often the small run production costs on these parts makes the project seem unfeasible. If there is interest, we can put together a parts list and cost it out. Maybe a bulk buy of 100 full kits would make it feasible. Anyone want to take on the shopping list as a project?

so, someone making drop target mechs????? those to me are the biggest hurdle, scavenging and parting out other games for mechs only goes so far.

#5825 34 days ago

Another vote for Pinitech. These are displays that I just did last week for a customer's Star Trek. With the smoke filter installed (not installed in pic), these displays are gorgeous!

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
#5826 34 days ago

I got my Flight 2000 drop target bank over the weekend, which I bought with the intention of doing a Nine Ball scratch build. The obvious next question is, can I get additional lift arms and "knockdown" arms anywhere? Is that the sort of thing that would have to be scavenged off of other drop banks?

All of which raises the point again that reproduction drop targets would be a real boon to the hobby at this point!

#5828 34 days ago
Quoted from FantasticPinball:

I know a lot of you are doing scratch builds and Re-bodies. I wanted to sell my Seawitch playfields with an option of offering a fully populated drop in replacement, potentially with the full kit to assemble the entire machine. I’ve reached out to a few people making wire harnesses and drop targets. Often the small run production costs on these parts makes the project seem unfeasible. If there is interest, we can put together a parts list and cost it out. Maybe a bulk buy of 100 full kits would make it feasible. Anyone want to take on the shopping list as a project?

Quoted from FantasticPinball:

I know a lot of you are doing scratch builds and Re-bodies. I wanted to sell my Seawitch playfields with an option of offering a fully populated drop in replacement, potentially with the full kit to assemble the entire machine. I’ve reached out to a few people making wire harnesses and drop targets. Often the small run production costs on these parts makes the project seem unfeasible. If there is interest, we can put together a parts list and cost it out. Maybe a bulk buy of 100 full kits would make it feasible. Anyone want to take on the shopping list as a project?

Repro cabinets are available.

Repro back glasses are available.

Mantis makes the ball guides.

Mantis is making lockdown bar receivers.

Third Coast Pinball makes the wire harnesses.

Pinball Pimp makes cabinet stencils.

Legs, levelers, flipper buttons and all other various and sundry items are available.

Alltek and Weebly for circuit boards
====================================

The pinch points for scratch builds are:

1) Lockdown bars ( Stern now uses spring clips to attach the lockdown bars to the cabinet. No receiver would be needed. ).

2) Drop target cages/assemblies

3) Stern style coin doors. ( Since the target market would be for home machines, an empty coin door shell that accepts no coins would be all that is needed).

4) Aprons

5) Stern style shooter rods.

I think many of the suppliers for most of the items that are currently available are mostly one-man operations. The nightmare? A sure source of supply today could be gone tomorrow.

#5829 34 days ago

A Bally lockdown also works. Just need to use different playfield hangers and install correctly. I did this on my Galaxy.
I bought a shooter rod also. I need to look back on where I got it.
Drop targets and aprons definitely tough to track down.

#5830 34 days ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

The obvious next question is, can I get additional lift arms and "knockdown" arms anywhere? Is that the sort of thing that would have to be scavenged off of other drop banks?

You'll have to part out other drop target banks at this point, but keep in mind that some are needed for builds so shouldn't be parted.

The drop target banks needed for builds are:
3 bank - Seawitch, Star Gazer, Quicksilver, Cheetah and Nine Ball
4 bank - Seawitch, Quicksilver
5 bank with memory coils - Cheetah

cottonm4 Can you ask Kerry at Mantis is he can make knockdown bars and lift arms? I have a couple of drop target banks missing this part.

#5831 34 days ago

Just picked up this playfield and noted something odd. The colours are orange instead of blue?

4675E169-6423-433D-A93B-2F626DBFD2FA (resized).jpeg
#5832 34 days ago

There is also the transformer panel needed. I think the Homepin Bally one would work? https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=AS-2877-1

#5833 34 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

OK. Here is what I got from Kerry at Mantis. I still need to ask him some questions about some other items. This is what I received yesterday.

I got both styles of back glass locking straps.

The sample I sent out was the early style with the spot welded hold down brackets/lugs. It is on the left in this pic. You can see the square hole is there and clocked into the proper position (along with my bare feet).

Thanx for doing this, cottonm4 . Please let me know if (when!) you're ready to take orders. I'm good for one back glass locking strap WITHOUT the lugs (my top glass channel already has them).

Thanx!

#5834 34 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

OK. Here is what I got from Kerry at Mantis. I still need to ask him some questions about some other items. This is what I received yesterday.
I got both styles of back glass locking straps.
The sample I sent out was the early style with the spot welded hold down brackets/lugs. It is on the left in this pic. You can see the square hole is there and clocked into the proper position (along with my bare feet).
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
With the strap with no lugs and the trim channel from Marco Specialities you now have the option of being able to lock your back glass down.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/P-6229-27
[quoted image]
NOTE: For the early style with the lugs attached, I'm guessing it will work with the Marco trim channel as is. If not, the brackets on the strip can be cut off or you can just get some plastic trim strip and make it happen.

Quoted from Mathazar:

Thanx for doing this, cottonm4 . Please let me know if (when!) you're ready to take orders. I'm good for one back glass locking strap WITHOUT the lugs (my top glass channel already has them).
Thanx!

Let me flesh this out a little bit. Kerry will not put them up for sale until I give my blessings.

Here we go.

The strap with out the lugs is working good in my Nine Ball/ now Quicksilver back box. This one is good to go.

IMG_8099 (resized).jpgIMG_8098 (resized).jpgIMG_8097 (resized).jpg

I have tried both my OG strap with the lugs and the Mantis unit with the lugs.

This is Mantis.

IMG_8088 (resized).jpg

This is original. They both work. But there is a "but". The lugged unit works and works well, but it it tight for getting the key lock twisted to lock position. I am going to recommend for Kerry to add 1/16" more offset on the lugs.

You can see I have a black plastic trim strip on my Catacomb back glass and it leaves no room for error; If someone has a trim strip that is just a little thicker then the lugs will not work; It is that tight of fit. Adding 1/16" to the lug offset should not hurt anything but I am looking for others experience and opinions on this lugged unit and making a small 1/16" mod.

Anybody have any problems with me having 1/16" added to the lug offset? I need to get this right the first time.

IMG_8100 (resized).jpg

#5835 34 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Here come the Nine Balls.

You ain’t kiddin!
1216BDA7-652B-44C1-8248-9B03863C0B06.jpeg
721B422E-7927-41FE-9D3E-8C696110F496.jpeg

This ones much more of a project than the $9k Nine Balls, but we’ll get there eventually!

#5836 34 days ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

You ain’t kiddin!
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
This ones much more of a project than the $9k Nine Balls, but we’ll get there eventually!

A cabinet paint job and a Mirco play field and you are good to go

#5837 34 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Let me flesh this out a little bit. Kerry will not put them up for sale until I give my blessings.
Here we go.
The strap with out the lugs is working good in my Nine Ball/ now Quicksilver back box. This one is good to go.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I have tried both my OG strap with the lugs and the Mantis unit with the lugs.
This is Mantis.
[quoted image]
This is original. They both work. But there is a "but". The lugged unit works and works well, but it it tight for getting the key lock twisted to lock position. I am going to recommend for Kerry to add 1/16" more offset on the lugs.
You can see I have a black plastic trim strip on my Catacomb back glass and it leaves no room for error; If someone has a trim strip that is just a little thicker then the lugs will not work; It is that tight of fit. Adding 1/16" to the lug offset should not hurt anything but I am looking for others experience and opinions on this lugged unit and making a small 1/16" mod.
Anybody have any problems with me having 1/16" added to the lug offset? I need to get this right the first time.
[quoted image]

OK. Kerry already has the lugged units already made up so this is what you will get. It is tight but it works. If you are the type that leaves the key hanging in the key lock then the lugged strap will roll back a little bit and your back glass will not be locked. To maintain locked condition you will need to pull the key partially out of the ket slot; Keep that in mind if you are moving the back box around with the glass installed.

I'm going to tell him to go ahead and put them up for sale.

#5838 34 days ago

Cab actually is actually pretty decent, I’ll probably leave it original. Seriously needs a new backglass however. I’ll wait for the CPR year end sale to grab one.

8043DEB3-2DB1-4F41-9D6A-983E209EA6FD.jpeg
#5839 34 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Mirco play field

Has he fixed the missing text yet?

#5840 34 days ago
Quoted from djblouw:

Has he fixed the missing text yet?

I think so but mine is an early play field with out the text. I don't know.

#5841 34 days ago
Quoted from djblouw:

Has he fixed the missing text yet?

yep i got an updated one, looks good

#5842 33 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Let me flesh this out a little bit. Kerry will not put them up for sale until I give my blessings.
Here we go.
The strap with out the lugs is working good in my Nine Ball/ now Quicksilver back box. This one is good to go.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I have tried both my OG strap with the lugs and the Mantis unit with the lugs.
This is Mantis.
[quoted image]
This is original. They both work. But there is a "but". The lugged unit works and works well, but it it tight for getting the key lock twisted to lock position. I am going to recommend for Kerry to add 1/16" more offset on the lugs.
You can see I have a black plastic trim strip on my Catacomb back glass and it leaves no room for error; If someone has a trim strip that is just a little thicker then the lugs will not work; It is that tight of fit. Adding 1/16" to the lug offset should not hurt anything but I am looking for others experience and opinions on this lugged unit and making a small 1/16" mod.
Anybody have any problems with me having 1/16" added to the lug offset? I need to get this right the first time.
[quoted image]

I am enjoying looking at these keys dangling.

Catacomb with the strap with the spot welded lugs.

IMG_8106 (resized).JPG

And Quicksilver with the plain no-lug strap.

IMG_8104 (resized).JPG

Those keys just look super.

#5843 33 days ago

And here is another part from Kerry at Mantis.

I have one shooter lane ball stop guide that is nice and shiny chrome. All of my others are a corroded mess. Kerry is now making these from brushed stainless steel. I'm trying to decide if I want to mirror finish it on the buffing wheel or just go with the brushed look.

IMG_8107 (resized).JPG

#5844 33 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

And here is another part from Kerry at Mantis.
I have one shooter lane ball stop guide that is nice and shiny chrome. All of my others are a corroded mess. Kerry is now making these from brushed stainless steel. I'm trying to decide if I want to mirror finish it on the buffing wheel or just go with the brushed look.
[quoted image]

I would say mirror for the collector.
Brushed look for the player.
Just an opinion.

#5845 33 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Repro cabinets are available.
Repro back glasses are available.
Mantis makes the ball guides.
Mantis is making lockdown bar receivers.
Third Coast Pinball makes the wire harnesses.
Pinball Pimp makes cabinet stencils.
Legs, levelers, flipper buttons and all other various and sundry items are available.
Alltek and Weebly for circuit boards
====================================
The pinch points for scratch builds are:
1) Lockdown bars ( Stern now uses spring clips to attach the lockdown bars to the cabinet. No receiver would be needed. ).
2) Drop target cages/assemblies
3) Stern style coin doors. ( Since the target market would be for home machines, an empty coin door shell that accepts no coins would be all that is needed).
4) Aprons
5) Stern style shooter rods.
I think many of the suppliers for most of the items that are currently available are mostly one-man operations. The nightmare? A sure source of supply today could be gone tomorrow.

This is a list I started for the major parts. I still need to fill out coil numbers and qty of posts and hardware.....etc.

Seawitch (resized).JPG
#5846 33 days ago
Quoted from SR230CC:

This is a list I started for the major parts. I still need to fill out coil numbers and qty of posts and hardware.....etc.
[quoted image]

Marcos buys 95% of their pop bumper caps from PBR and marks them up 50% or more. PBR also sells coils, sleeves, posts, hardware, shooter rods, etc. If you buy $100 or more from PBR you get a 10% discount, so I recommend comparing pricing from both companies.

#5847 33 days ago
Quoted from SR230CC:

This is a list I started for the major parts. I still need to fill out coil numbers and qty of posts and hardware.....etc.
[quoted image]

nice. you can buy 3 bank DT from Pinball Life as well, but the target will obviously not look right. I did a mock up of one of their targets with a Gottlieb drop target head in fusion 360 just for fun. Did gottlieb because I had one on hand, same could be done for Stern, Bally etc. It sounds like the swinks 3d printed targets from shapeways work pretty well, though expensive, but I might give this a shot at some point.

pasted_image (resized).png
#5848 33 days ago
Quoted from bluespin:

Marcos buys 95% of their pop bumper caps from PBR and marks them up 50% or more. PBR also sells coils, sleeves, posts, hardware, shooter rods, etc. If you buy $100 or more from PBR you get a 10% discount, so I recommend comparing pricing from both companies.

Thanks, that is a big help. Thinking I can disassemble my Virtual Pinball that I don't play much and use that as a base. It is an old Bally Harlem Globetrotters cabinet.

#5849 33 days ago
Quoted from SR230CC:

This is a list I started for the major parts. I still need to fill out coil numbers and qty of posts and hardware.....etc.
[quoted image]

Is the 3 bank on my F2K the same as the other titles? If so, I can start with that and look into designing a replacement 3 bank. I think it would be nice to have a memory select so the rule set could be deepened, but I will have to figure out the production cost, ideally keeping a replacement assembly under $100.

#5850 33 days ago
Quoted from FantasticPinball:

Is the 3 bank on my F2K the same as the other titles? If so, I can start with that and look into designing a replacement 3 bank. I think it would be nice to have a memory select so the rule set could be deepened, but I will have to figure out the production cost, ideally keeping a replacement assembly under $100.

if you do the 3 it should be fairly straight forward to expand to a 4 bank as well.

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