(Topic ID: 225496)

Stern Electronics Club (1977-1984).

By Mitch

3 years ago


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There are 6,079 posts in this topic. You are on page 111 of 122.
#5501 3 months ago
Quoted from bigguybbr:

No worries. I just ordered 4 Bally replacements from pinball life, so I’m going to swap all of mine out so they play the same. It just sucks that my new toy broke in the first week

You may have to remove the plastic head to fit it through the playfield. When one of my Trident sling arms shattered (in 3 places!) a few years ago, I put in one I pulled off a Bally Supersonic parts playfield. It was a PITA, but it works.

#5502 3 months ago

To anyone who might be interested, I've got a Viper in Portland, Oregon that I'd either trade or sell (or possibly trade - + cash). https://pinside.com/pinball/my-pinside/my-ads

Turret seems to need some fine tuning but otherwise working wonderfully, very clean example overall. Playfield looks to be either factory or very early mylar over lower portion, super smooth and fast shooter and the spinner is dialed.

Thanks!

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#5503 3 months ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

Must be Viper season. That's like 5 for sale in the last month.

My guess is that they will be up for sale again, soon

#5504 3 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Kerry is now in possession of my shooter lane ball stop and a back glass lock down bar. I sent him the early style with the lugs that are spot welded on. This way he can make both styles if needed.
The earlier Sterns have that pivot bracket on the end. The later of the classic Sterns just use a screw and a bushing to attach the one end of the back glass lockdown bar. I would like to have some of these pivot brackets---if they don't cost too much as the bushing/screw combo does the job quite well. We'll have to see what he says.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

The earlier Sterns used a pivot bracket for the slave side of the back glass lockdown strap. The later Sterns, such as Seawitch, use a shouldered bushing.

Kerry, who is working to make these parts we need is a sheet metal shop. He is not a machine shop and will not be able to make these bushings. While the bushings would be nice, 2 or 3 washers stacked up and a screw will work just as good. However, if someone has a way to make some of these bushings I can furnish the measurements.

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#5505 3 months ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

You may have to remove the plastic head to fit it through the playfield. When one of my Trident sling arms shattered (in 3 places!) a few years ago, I put in one I pulled off a Bally Supersonic parts playfield. It was a PITA, but it works.

They arrive in the mail tomorrow so I’ll see what I have to do. It looks like at some point before I got my Meteor mine were switched over to Bally ones, and they seem to fit without issue.

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#5506 3 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

The earlier Sterns used a pivot bracket for the slave side of the back glass lockdown strap. The later Sterns, such as Seawitch, use a shouldered bushing.
Kerry, who is working to make these parts we need is a sheet metal shop. He is not a machine shop and will not be able to make these bushings. While the bushings would be nice, 2 or 3 washers stacked up and a screw will work just as good. However, if someone has a way to make some of these bushings I can furnish the measurements.
[quoted image]

That is just a step bushing. I’m sure there is a manufacturer out there that already makes these. Google search with the dimensions and I bet you can find one.

https://www.greenpartstore.com/John-Deere-Step-Bushing-M126633.html

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#5507 3 months ago
Quoted from bigguybbr:

That is just a step bushing. I’m sure there is a manufacturer out there that already makes these. Google search with the dimensions and I bet you can find one.
https://www.greenpartstore.com/John-Deere-Step-Bushing-M126633.html
[quoted image]

Also try Grainger as they offer thousands of items for sale that they don’t stock.

#5508 3 months ago
Quoted from bluespin:

Also try Grainger as they offer thousands of items for sale that they don’t stock.

Grainger is a pinball parts supplier, they just don’t know it

#5509 3 months ago
Quoted from bigguybbr:

That is just a step bushing. I’m sure there is a manufacturer out there that already makes these. Google search with the dimensions and I bet you can find one.
https://www.greenpartstore.com/John-Deere-Step-Bushing-M126633.html
[quoted image]

The two critical dimensions are:

1) The depth of the larger diameter is .160 deep.

2) The diameter of the smaller diameter is .245

Make me proud. Find out where we can get the size we need without having to pay $8.00 shipping for a $2.00 part.

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#5510 3 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Make me proud. Find out where we can get the size we need without having to pay $8.00 shipping for a $2.00 part.

Honestly, even if your contact WAS able to make them, we'd still be paying $8 shipping for the part..

#5511 3 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

The two critical dimensions are:
1) The depth of the larger diameter is .160 deep.
2) The diameter of the smaller diameter is .245

What is the hole diameter?

#5512 3 months ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Honestly, even if your contact WAS able to make them, we'd still be paying $8 shipping for the part..

No. if he could make them they would ship with the lock strap for no extra charge.

#5513 3 months ago
Quoted from finman48127:

What is the hole diameter?

The I.D. of the hole is .163. It fits a #10 screw.

#5514 3 months ago

You could also just 3D print it. The forces on it aren’t all that great

#5515 3 months ago
Quoted from bigguybbr:

You could also just 3D print it. The forces on it aren’t all that great

Somebody with a 3D printer could. I will probably just use a stack of washers and a screw,

#5516 3 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

No. if he could make them they would ship with the lock strap for no extra charge.

Ah, no. But if he buys a bunch of them and then includes them with the lock straps he makes... 20 of them for $8 shipping is a lot better than 1 for $8 shipping.

Assuming they're worth it - I think the washers would to fine, honestly.

#5517 3 months ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Assuming they're worth it - I think the washers would to fine, honestly.

Heck I just leave the screw long when it's missing!

#5518 3 months ago
Quoted from slochar:

Heck I just leave the screw long when it's missing!

I laughed. Man, you leave everything long when things are missing.

#5519 3 months ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

You may have to remove the plastic head to fit it through the playfield. When one of my Trident sling arms shattered (in 3 places!) a few years ago, I put in one I pulled off a Bally Supersonic parts playfield. It was a PITA, but it works.

I just swapped out all 4 of my sling arms with Bally ones. Swapped out easy, no issues. I snapped some comparison photos.
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I don’t notice any difference in the play. Having done this now, I don’t know that reproduction originals would be worth $25 a piece to me when these were $4-$5 from pinball life.

I also took the opportunity to swap out the linkages while I was in there taking everything apart.EC5B7398-86EC-4327-9EFD-42DDB94111EA (resized).jpeg

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#5520 3 months ago

I wonder why I had such a difficult time fitting mine through the playfield. It was a few years ago and I was probably just doing something easy the hard way.

#5521 3 months ago
Quoted from bigguybbr:

I just swapped out all 4 of my sling arms with Bally ones. Swapped out easy, no issues. I snapped some comparison photos.
[quoted image][quoted image]
I don’t notice any difference in the play. Having done this now, I don’t know that reproduction originals would be worth $25 a piece to me when these were $4-$5 from pinball life.
I also took the opportunity to swap out the linkages while I was in there taking everything apart.[quoted image][quoted image]

Nice. What part numbers did you use for the arm and the links?

#5522 3 months ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

I wonder why I had such a difficult time fitting mine through the playfield. It was a few years ago and I was probably just doing something easy the hard way.

The right tool makes all the difference

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#5523 3 months ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Nice. What part numbers did you use for the arm and the links?

Linkages (Not what I used, but works. Mine are from Steve Young)
https://www.pinballlife.com/slingshotballshooter-link.html

Arms
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-slingshot-bumper-crank-assembly.html

Bracket (if you need it, mine were ok)
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-slingshot-kicker-mounting-bracket.html

#5524 3 months ago
Quoted from RatShack:

Still don't know what those wires are for, but got the game flipping without them. Pops aren't working but everything else seems fine.

Obviously the connector ended up being for the pops. I ran the missing wires off J2 and stuffed them in the back of the playfield connector, everything is working now.

Does anyone have a part number for the 3 pin female connector housing that goes to driver board connector J2? Having trouble finding a matching one.

#5525 3 months ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Seawitch is done. I put the playfield back in and fired her up. The only issue I had was reversed polarity on the power. I assumed the last guy that worked on it knew how to install a power cord. Obviously he didn't. I swapped the wires and everything checked out. I also reinstalled the 1 ohm resistors on the upper flippers. Actually doing that changed how the game plays. It isn't bad, just different. With less power going to the upper flippers you have more control hitting stuff in the upper playfield. At full power it felt more uncontrolled and super fast. The way I have it now is the way it was when it rolled off the faxtoy line.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks fantastic man. I ran into a bunch of shit that took me off my seawitch. Hoping to get back to it soon.

#5526 3 months ago
Quoted from bigguybbr:

I just swapped out all 4 of my sling arms with Bally ones. Swapped out easy, no issues. I snapped some comparison photos.
[quoted image][quoted image]
I don’t notice any difference in the play. Having done this now, I don’t know that reproduction originals would be worth $25 a piece to me when these were $4-$5 from pinball life.
I also took the opportunity to swap out the linkages while I was in there taking everything apart.[quoted image][quoted image]

I love the fact you have a bally link in the mix.

#5527 3 months ago

When I brought my Seawitch home, it had a Bally sling kicker installed. That kicker was on the right hand side. Seeing how that side of the play field was chewed up in front of the slingshot, I decided, rightly or wrongly, I liked the Stern kickers better.

IMG_7237 (resized).JPG

#5528 3 months ago

I purchased 4x complete flipper assemblies from pinball life for my rather sluggish big game project, and like a dummy I totally forgot the two higher flippers have double contact switches. The original ones have seen better days for sure and I’d like to replace them.

Could a kind soul point me out to a link where I can purchase? I have no idea which ones are correct. Thanks!

#5529 3 months ago
Quoted from GorillaBiscuits:

I purchased 4x complete flipper assemblies from pinball life for my rather sluggish big game project, and like a dummy I totally forgot the two higher flippers have double contact switches. The original ones have seen better days for sure and I’d like to replace them.
Could a kind soul point me out to a link where I can purchase? I have no idea which ones are correct. Thanks!

https://www.pinballlife.com/bally-secondary-end-of-stroke-switch-normally-open.html

#5530 3 months ago
Quoted from GorillaBiscuits:

I purchased 4x complete flipper assemblies from pinball life for my rather sluggish big game project, and like a dummy I totally forgot the two higher flippers have double contact switches. The original ones have seen better days for sure and I’d like to replace them.
Could a kind soul point me out to a link where I can purchase? I have no idea which ones are correct. Thanks!

I'm a new Seawitch owner and just bought the assembles also.

I've attached a photo of the A10-45's I purchased from Pinball Life, the plastic spacer was too short compared to the original so I had to remove the burnt out contacts and install new ones to keep the correct spacing.

Also if you check out my photo I changed the EOS switch to a Williams 03-7811 with the helper leaf, as per VID's recommendation.

The only other observation for me was to change the switch mounting screws, the ones in the kit are a sheet metal, I prefer the original type threaded and I added a metal stop nut.

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#5531 3 months ago
Quoted from bigguybbr:

No worries. I just ordered 4 Bally replacements from pinball life, so I’m going to swap all of mine out so they play the same. It just sucks that my new toy broke in the first week

I am fairly certain the Bally ones will not work properly. I thought they made contact with the wood or something because their travel is too long.

#5532 3 months ago
Quoted from snyper2099:

I am fairly certain the Bally ones will not work properly. I thought they made contact with the wood or something because their travel is too long.

That's what I remember reading. I think the work around is to fill the pivot bracket holes and reposition the pivot bracket.

#5533 3 months ago

Anyone know the size and style name of the screws that hold the plastic pop ring assemblies together?

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#5534 3 months ago
Quoted from snyper2099:

I am fairly certain the Bally ones will not work properly. I thought they made contact with the wood or something because their travel is too long

Dang. Any other suggestions? Maybe something at PBR?

#5535 3 months ago
Quoted from GorillaBiscuits:

Dang. Any other suggestions? Maybe something at PBR?

PBR recommends subbing with the same switch assy. I didn't post PBR, because most people gripe about his payment system. :/

#5536 3 months ago
Quoted from GorillaBiscuits:

Dang. Any other suggestions? Maybe something at PBR?

Look, My Seawitch came to me with a Bally sling shot arm on the right hand side. They will work. But I have forgot the details.

#5537 3 months ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

Anyone know the size and style name of the screws that hold the plastic pop ring assemblies together?
[quoted image]

I wish I knew. I could use a couple myself. They are different.

#5538 3 months ago

Thanks all. Will grab the Bally ones, appreciate the help!!!!

#5539 3 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I wish I knew. I could use a couple myself. They are different.

I found they're called "cut tail" tapping screws. Now the question is, what size are these things? I can only find metric sizes for sale.

#5540 3 months ago
Quoted from snyper2099:

I am fairly certain the Bally ones will not work properly. I thought they made contact with the wood or something because their travel is too long.

If you check out the pictures, the dimensions are identical. I’m using them in both my Trident and my Meteor with no modifications.

#5541 3 months ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

I found they're called "cut tail" tapping screws. Now the question is, what size are these things? I can only find metric sizes for sale.

Mine measured 3.5mm.

So you want to buy M3*5. I Think .

ebay.com link: itm

#5542 3 months ago

Anybody have a classic Stern lockdown bar? I can trade a drop target unit for one.
Or cash.

#5543 3 months ago
Quoted from Jjsmooth:

Anybody have a classic Stern lockdown bar? I can trade a drop target unit for one.
Or cash.

There are two varieties... Do you need nipples or tabs?

#5544 3 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:Mine measured 3.5mm.
So you want to buy M3*5. I Think .
ebay.com link: itm

The link just seems to just have M3 sized screws.

I measured M3.5x15mm on the screws I had which is an odd size.

You can find round head M3.5x14mm tapping screws here:
https://www.mcmaster.com/90380A365/

I think these would work fine or you could get a little longer with M3.5x16mm. The screws I have are pan head instead of round head like the ones from McMaster.

#5545 3 months ago
Quoted from snyper2099:

There are two varieties... Do you need nipples or tabs?

I will take nipples for 500 Alex

#5546 3 months ago
Quoted from wolffcub:

I will take nipples for 500 Alex

Cripes, is that with the exchange rate? 1 USD usually does it at the clubs here.

#5547 3 months ago
Quoted from kickabit:

The link just seems to just have M3 sized screws.
I measured M3.5x15mm on the screws I had which is an odd size.
You can find round head M3.5x14mm tapping screws here:
https://www.mcmaster.com/90380A365/
I think these would work fine or you could get a little longer with M3.5x16mm. The screws I have are pan head instead of round head like the ones from McMaster.

I found these at 3.5x16 ebay.com link: Ni Plated Phillips Pan Head Self Tapping Screws PT Cutting Tail M2 2 3 2 6 3 3 5

I can’t find either of my calipers because I’m a disorganized idiot but putting it up to a ruler I was seeing 16mm as the length. Since the shafts are hollow I’m sure that small of a variable is no big deal anyway.

#5548 3 months ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

I found these at 3.5x16 ebay.com link: Ni Plated Phillips Pan Head Self Tapping Screws PT Cutting Tail M2 2 3 2 6 3 3 5
I can’t find either of my calipers because I’m a disorganized idiot but putting it up to a ruler I was seeing 16mm as the length. Since the shafts are hollow I’m sure that small of a variable is no big deal anyway.

I think I will head to my local hardware store that stocks everything. Save on shipping charges.

#5549 3 months ago

Please let us know if you find them and they're a match.

#5550 3 months ago

Working on a Stern 9 Ball for a friend. The game boots with the tones then shows odd numbers on the displays. The game appears to be in attract mode because the playfield controlled lights are dancing around.

When I trigger the coin switches nothing happens, and when I press the start button nothing happens. Only thing noticeable so far is that the self test switch is faulty and slightly touching my finger on the button makes it start self test without actually pressing the button.

Ideas?

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