(Topic ID: 225496)

Stern Electronics Club (1977-1984).


By Mitch

1 year ago



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#501 1 year ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Well, the ball is 1 1/16" diameter. Wire ball guides are elevated 1/2". I think there is room to make a 1/2"-5/8" high ramp and not cause conflict with the glass. The ramp would need to be long enough to make a gradual climb and not shoot the ball into the glass.
My plate is full until I return from Ft. Worth on Nov. 5th. When I get back I can carve one up from a piece of wood and try it out. If it works, one could be made of a block of dark blue acrylic and located with a couple of screws and removed so it would not be permanent. There are lots of possibilities here.
Here is the reply I got from a Stern tech support guy.
" Parts are available for all new games unless the part is only used on a limited edition game. As far as I know this game has not been announced."

Interesting to not the shot back into the shooter lane looks like it will just fall back out on The Beatles due to the one way gat that is there.

#502 1 year ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

My plate is full until I return from Ft. Worth on Nov. 5th. When I get back I can carve one up from a piece of wood and try it out. If it works, one could be made of a block of dark blue acrylic and located with a couple of screws and removed so it would not be permanent. There are lots of possibilities here.

Sucks that we already had Mantis make ball guides for us.

#503 1 year ago

Here is a better shot of that ramp. Just a couple of inches behind the one way wire gate. This goes into my "Gee, why did I not think of this", folder. No springs. No moving parts.

So, hopefully Stern announces this pin goes to production. I'd rather be able to buy that ramp as opposed to having to make one.

Screen Shot 2018-10-24 at 1.12.26 PM (resized).png

#504 1 year ago

Man I can batter those out on the laser table all day long.

#505 1 year ago

This shooter lane ramp isn't anything new...many of the newer Sterns use these. The length changes perhaps along with the angle but it serves this same purpose. Maybe one of those, say from Aerosmith or BM66 would work on your Seawitch.

#506 1 year ago

I'm fairly certain Metallica and Sopranos both have one as well.

#507 1 year ago
Quoted from wolffcub:

Man I can batter those out on the laser table all day long.

Thank you for volunteering We might have to put you on the payroll

#508 1 year ago
Quoted from Mitch:

I have a spare demo man launch ramp I might try on my seawitch. Only different is on the Beatles the cab is a modern cab where the glass sits higher so the ball can launch over the ball guide where it might hit the glass on on the standard seawitch cab.

I thought that maybe there could be a nice shallow sloping ramp but there is not enough room for a long ramp without fouling up the skill shot area of the shooter lane. So, the ramp will look like a ski slope which will most likely send the ball into the glass as you have noted; That long piece of metal that is standing up real high at the ramp launch point suggests the ball realy goes airborne. So, a wire form ramp as your demo man ramp might be an option. Or an acrylic tube like Xenon might work.

I can think of two other options but they are radical. The first option would be to lower the four Z-brackets the play field sits on. I think there is enough room in the cab that the play field could be dropped an inch. The problem with doing this is you would have to lower your shooter rod by one inch which would require one to drill a new shooter rod hole in the cab. It would be easy to do but no one is going to want to drill extra holes in their cabinet.

The other option would be to just drop the two back Z-brackets and lower the back of the play field only which would give you sort of a deep cabinet. But you would need 5 inch long leg levelers which would not be practical, however, you could get some longer legs (PBR sells 31" legs) and elevate the back with longer legs. This would work; I elevate my Big Game with 31" inch legs in the back and make my slope adjustments with the front levelers. This would leave you looking for a solution to alter the angle of how your shooter rod sits in the cabinet so it will match the new angle that your play field is now sitting at. Turning the beehive over 180 degrees might give you the new angle you would need. Or you could modify the beehive.

I'm going to try and make some sort of ramp when I get back home and see what might work.
+++++++++++++++++++++++++

But in the end, I think with Seawitch being an old school pin we are gong to be looking for an old school solution for a better gate. And I keep going back to Frunch's ball guide offering. He has the "rigid" part worked out. Forming a ball guide wire or a piece of sheet metal as a gate is the easy part. Figuring out the pivot point and return spring is the challenge. And I think I might have something.

Just pretend Frunch's gate is a flipper with a small shaft that extends below the play field. You could get a nylon flipper bushing and make a nylon reducer bushing for a smaller shaft and then bolt a bellcrank to the shaft under the play field and attach a return spring. This could be done with a common, easy-to-obtain drop target spring. It would take very little to make a spring tension adjuster.

Screen Shot 2018-10-25 at 11.01.49 AM (resized).png

#509 1 year ago

Im new to all this stuff but what exactly is the issue with the old sea witch shooter lane? Was the old method of the metal flap a bad design or is it that no one makes a replacement so others are making up options?

#510 1 year ago
Quoted from wolffcub:

Im new to all this stuff but what exactly is the issue with the old sea witch shooter lane? Was the old method of the metal flap a bad design or is it that no one makes a replacement so others are making up options?

It is too flimsy. It flexes when the ball hits it when completing a clockwise orbit and messes withe the trajectory.

#511 1 year ago

I like solving issues. Is someone willing to work with me and get me some dimensions if I supply a drawing ?

#512 1 year ago

I can work with you. I'm leaving town on Monday and will not be back until 11-6-18.

I have some free time today and tomorrow.

What do you need?

#513 1 year ago

Why not just a heavier gauge gate with a torsion spring setup at the pivot?

#514 1 year ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I thought that maybe there could be a nice shallow sloping ramp but there is not enough room for a long ramp without fouling up the skill shot area of the shooter lane. So, the ramp will look like a ski slope which will most likely send the ball into the glass as you have noted; That long piece of metal that is standing up real high at the ramp launch point suggests the ball realy goes airborne. So, a wire form ramp as your demo man ramp might be an option. Or an acrylic tube like Xenon might work.
I can think of two other options but they are radical. The first option would be to lower the four Z-brackets the play field sits on. I think there is enough room in the cab that the play field could be dropped an inch. The problem with doing this is you would have to lower your shooter rod by one inch which would require one to drill a new shooter rod hole in the cab. It would be easy to do but no one is going to want to drill extra holes in their cabinet.
The other option would be to just drop the two back Z-brackets and lower the back of the play field only which would give you sort of a deep cabinet. But you would need 5 inch long leg levelers which would not be practical, however, you could get some longer legs (PBR sells 31" legs) and elevate the back with longer legs. This would work; I elevate my Big Game with 31" inch legs in the back and make my slope adjustments with the front levelers. This would leave you looking for a solution to alter the angle of how your shooter rod sits in the cabinet so it will match the new angle that your play field is now sitting at. Turning the beehive over 180 degrees might give you the new angle you would need. Or you could modify the beehive.
I'm going to try and make some sort of ramp when I get back home and see what might work.
+++++++++++++++++++++++++
But in the end, I think with Seawitch being an old school pin we are gong to be looking for an old school solution for a better gate. And I keep going back to Frunch's ball guide offering. He has the "rigid" part worked out. Forming a ball guide wire or a piece of sheet metal as a gate is the easy part. Figuring out the pivot point and return spring is the challenge. And I think I might have something.
Just pretend Frunch's gate is a flipper with a small shaft that extends below the play field. You could get a nylon flipper bushing and make a nylon reducer bushing for a smaller shaft and then bolt a bellcrank to the shaft under the play field and attach a return spring. This could be done with a common, easy-to-obtain drop target spring. It would take very little to make a spring tension adjuster.
[quoted image]

There is one more possible option. Mount a complete flipper assembly under the play field. Make a gate to fit. Add a mini switch either on the coin door or by the left flipper button. When you get ready to launch the ball, just push the mini switch and the flipper coil will open the gate. Then shoot the ball and start playing.

#515 1 year ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

There is one more possible option. Mount a complete flipper assembly under the play field. Make a gate to fit. Add a mini switch either on the coin door or by the left flipper button. When you get ready to launch the ball, just push the mini switch and the flipper coil will open the gate. Then shoot the ball and start playing.

Better yet a "trigger" rollover.
No need to push a button.

#516 1 year ago
Quoted from rollitover:

Better yet a "trigger" rollover.
No need to push a button.

I was thinking about that. How do you do this without cutting a hole in the shooter lane of the play field? A rollover wire mounted on the inside shooter rail, maybe? Once the ball rolls over the trigger how do you keep the gate open long enough to not mess with the ball? It will take a better mind than mine to figure this one out.

#1 choice (for me) is a ramp if we can pull it off. No moving parts and nothing to break. Relatively cheap.

#2 choice (for me) is Frunch's wire guide that is needing a pivot and spring solution...and a switch solution.

#517 1 year ago

crude but gets the idea across.

pasted_image (resized).png
#518 1 year ago
Quoted from wolffcub:

crude but gets the idea across.[quoted image]

I can't give you any measurements. I would have to build it first. I just remembered that I have several heavy gauge ball guides I stripped for a High Speed. They will be perfect for trying form a piece of metal to make a gate.

I still like the idea of a ramp better. No moving parts. But if the ramp won't work........

I taped a flipper assembly base to the underside on my Seawitch play field. It is tight and it will fit but i makes me think of Frankenpin. It is not easily repeatable and would be expensive to make if you don't have a trashed flipper assembly as a donor. The flipper bat is sitting at the pivot point.

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15
#519 1 year ago

My current classic Stern lineup....

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#520 1 year ago

What? No Big Game? F2K?
Just playin', great line-up of hard to find Classics.

#521 1 year ago
Quoted from DrJoe:

My current classic Stern lineup....

What's your favorite?

#522 1 year ago
Quoted from DrJoe:

My current classic Stern lineup....

So blue. But we're all in this club together and we need to have a talk...

#523 1 year ago
Quoted from brenna98:

What's your favorite?

I really like the 6 I have but I'd say Quicksilver is played the most. Previously owned Big Game (I'd like another), Galaxy, Stingray, and Iron Maiden. Still looking for a nice Cheetah, Catacomb, and Dragonfist.

#524 1 year ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

So blue. But we're all in this club together and we need to have a talk...

It's the picture....no colored GI or anything like that

#525 1 year ago
Quoted from DrJoe:

It's the picture....no colored GI or anything like that


Riiight

10
#526 1 year ago

Got my first classic stern. It needs a good cleaning but overall it’s pretty clean

14F83906-E272-4D2B-B402-36DD686D11A7 (resized).jpeg
#527 1 year ago

Quick question.

I keep replacing a bulb in one of my pop bumpers on Catacomb but over a few days, bulb just goes really bright....and eventually goes out.

Can't be a bulbs, so what would cause this?

Thanks

#528 1 year ago
Quoted from Its_me_aj:

Got my first classic stern. It needs a good cleaning but overall it’s pretty clean
[quoted image]

I like the art on this one.

#529 1 year ago

Mirco is gauging interest on quicksilver playfeilds.

Let's get these made!!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/quicksilver-mirco-playfields-demand-check

#530 1 year ago
Quoted from Shapeshifter:

Can't be a bulbs, so what would cause this?

Bad SRC?

#531 1 year ago
Quoted from Shapeshifter:

Quick question.
I keep replacing a bulb in one of my pop bumpers on Catacomb but over a few days, bulb just goes really bright....and eventually goes out.
Can't be a bulbs, so what would cause this?
Thanks

I have this same situation on my Viking. One bulb burns super bright for awhile then burns out.
I have been told that I am going through a bad batch of bulbs. In other words, cheap or poorly manufactured.
Though sceptical at first, after about the third try I have not had a problem since.

#532 1 year ago
Quoted from rollitover:

I have this same situation on my Viking. One bulb burns super bright for awhile then burns out.
I have been told that I am going through a bad batch of bulbs. In other words, cheap or poorly manufactured.
Though sceptical at first, after about the third try I have not had a problem since.

The pops all feed from same buss. Bad bulbs sound reasonable

#533 1 year ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

The pops all feed from same buss. Bad bulbs sound reasonable

Switch a bulb into it from a pop bumper that doesnt have a issue then you will know for sure.

#534 1 year ago

Use old bulbs (i.e. not bulbs made in the last 20 years) or switch to LEDs.

#535 1 year ago

My Stern Lightning is betting a sexy makeover. I want to LED it, any suggestions on brand/colors etc. Thanks in advance.

IMG_2634 (resized).JPG
#536 1 year ago
Quoted from jkashani:

My Stern Lightning is betting a sexy makeover. I want to LED it, any suggestions on brand/colors etc. Thanks in advance.
[quoted image]

Warm white single or dual smd in the gi color in gi looks terrible. Color matched inserts. Not sure if classic sterns need the seigcraft boards for insert flickering.
Comet is great for LEDs

#537 1 year ago
Quoted from Mitch:

Warm white single or dual smd in the gi color in gi looks terrible. Color matched inserts. Not sure if classic sterns need the seigcraft boards for insert flickering.
Comet is great for LEDs

What he said.

Classic Stern needs the boards or a new Alltek or barakandi SDU. Comet sells the boards.

For your orange inserts use pink lights. it is something to do with how the colors are filtered.

For play field inserts that are white/ivory I like cool white as opposed to warm white. Cool white really makes the white inserts stand out.

#538 1 year ago
Quoted from rollitover:

I have this same situation on my Viking. One bulb burns super bright for awhile then burns out.
I have been told that I am going through a bad batch of bulbs. In other words, cheap or poorly manufactured.
Though sceptical at first, after about the third try I have not had a problem since.

I was using NOS GE 51's.

Have switched them around.

I looked underneath - someone in the past has worked on this area.

Does it matter if those black or red wires touch top of switch blades? Obviously they are insulated.

I think bulbs are ok.....

But not so good with wiring.

And what is an SRC?

IMG_4304 (resized).jpgIMG_4305 (resized).jpg
#539 1 year ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

Use old bulbs (i.e. not bulbs made in the last 20 years) or switch to LEDs.

I have been buying new old stock 1847 GE bulbs for my Seawitch pop bumpers and other troublesome bulb locations. The 1847's are the heavy duty version of the #47 bulb. The new offshore produced 1847's are worthless.

#540 1 year ago
Quoted from Shapeshifter:

I was using NOS GE 51's.
Have switched them around.
I looked underneath - someone in the past has worked on this area.
Does it matter if those black or red wires touch top of switch blades? Obviously they are insulated.
I think bulbs are ok.....
But not so good with wiring.
And what is an SRC?

I think he meant to say SCR, to put it in easy terms, these are the things on your lamp driver board that act like a switch for your feature lamps. If you have a feature lamp that is always on that is a common symptom of a bad SCR. A google search will give you more information about SCRs than you will ever need.

#541 1 year ago
Quoted from BrianBannon:

I think he meant to say SCR, to put it in easy terms, these are the things on your lamp driver board that act like a switch for your feature lamps. If you have a feature lamp that is always on that is a common symptom of a bad SCR. A google search will give you more information about SCRs than you will ever need.

Thanks.

It's definitely not the bulbs as the bulb I took from the other pop bumper has now blown!

#542 1 year ago
Quoted from dasvis:

I have been buying new old stock 1847 GE bulbs for my Seawitch pop bumpers and other troublesome bulb locations. The 1847's are the heavy duty version of the #47 bulb. The new offshore produced 1847's are worthless.

Is there a good source for these yet?

#543 1 year ago

Anyone seen this kind of a lamp issue on a classic Bally/Stern?

Some of the controlled lamps on my Centaur 2 are misbehaving. When they are supposed to be off, they flicker in a repeating pattern. They work fine when they should be on. This doesn't only happen with these two lamps; other lamps are affected depending on what's happening in the game.

The lamps are LEDs, but they have resistors. Either way, the affected lamps aren't actually "on," so the SCR holding current is not the issue. When the lamps are actually in their "on" state, there is no flicker at all.

Pretty sure I've ruled out headers A5J4 and A4J1; a good poke/wiggle/shimmy doesn't affect the end result.

Every lamp on the playfield independently goes ON when it's supposed to fire, and OFF when it isn't. No crossed wires. The problem is that some fire occasionally when they aren't supposed to, and this changes depending on which other lamps are lit.

I'm not inclined to think it's bad 4514 decoders considering that multiple decoders are involved, but that they're getting bad data. If there was a broken header or trace on the data/address bus between the MPU and driver board, I feel like it would impact multiple lamps in unison and far more intrusively than this. It could be a problem with the 6820/1 PIA but I don't know if that would manifest itself in this way. Outta my experience here.

#544 1 year ago

Ok Classic Sterners. Just looking for some quick input on what people regard as important in terms of desirability/ value in these games. The Seawitch i got in a package deal needs some board work. Typically i’m fussy about keeping these older games original (of course i dont keep old worn out rubbers in them ). But i do have an Altek i can throw in it. So does the type of boards you have matter much - from a “collectibility” perspective?

#545 1 year ago
Quoted from Completist:

Ok Classic Sterners. Just looking for some quick input on what people regard as important in terms of desirability/ value in these games. The Seawitch i got in a package deal needs some board work. Typically i’m fussy about keeping these older games original (of course i dont keep old worn out rubbers in them ). But i do have an Altek i can throw in it. So does the type of boards you have matter much - from a “collectibility” perspective?

No. Fully working game with no hacks is the most important thing.

#546 1 year ago

Cool thanks. And that was quick! For certain things i think it’s important to “upgrade” like installing a beefier rectifier board to bulletproof that area of the game so to speak.

I’ve seen fs ads where people highlight that the serial numbers for the boardsets match. So thought there was something to that.

#547 1 year ago
Quoted from Completist:

Cool thanks. And that was quick! For certain things i think it’s important to “upgrade” like installing a beefier rectifier board to bulletproof that area of the game so to speak.
I’ve seen fs ads where people highlight that the serial numbers for the boardsets match. So thought there was something to that.

You can always just keep the original board in the cab and include it if you ever sell the game.

#548 1 year ago
Quoted from Completist:

Cool thanks. And that was quick! For certain things i think it’s important to “upgrade” like installing a beefier rectifier board to bulletproof that area of the game so to speak.
I’ve seen fs ads where people highlight that the serial numbers for the boardsets match. So thought there was something to that.

I think it just helps tell the games story more. If the thing is a complete Frankenstein game, might mean there’s some unpleasant surprises in store.

#549 1 year ago
Quoted from Mitch:

You can always just keep the original board in the cab and include it if you ever sell the game.

Good point. I have a restored F2K and once you put in a repro pf the whole originality of it is kind of lost. But looks much better than the busted up way i found it! My goal there was to return the game to its original glory..

I’ll try and get the original mpu to boot of course. While i’m comfortable doing my own boardwork when i know whats wrong, i can’t profess to be the worlds best troubleshooter. I don’t have a test bench or anything much more than my logic probe (still in original packaging lmao). Ive been luckey so far and havent run into to many major issues.

#550 1 year ago

semicolin you can get some really weird lamp behavior if anything from the coin door harness has grounded. Not sure if that might be what you have going on but maybe worth a look.

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