(Topic ID: 225496)

Stern Electronics Club (1977-1984).

By Mitch

2 years ago


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  • Latest reply 4 days ago by JLay
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There are 5241 posts in this topic. You are on page 104 of 105.
#5151 16 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Very nice job.
Is your coin door credit button decal the Stern mirrored style ? It does not look like it is mirror finish.

Nope, wish it was. I bought from a couple different vendors and got this one both times. Just decided to go with it.

#5152 16 days ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Nope, wish it was. I bought from a couple different vendors and got this one both times. Just decided to go with it.

I have some spare mirrored decals I got from Pinball Rescue before they closed shop. $5.00 plus the shipping. So, $6.00 total. Send me a PM if you want to switch.

#5153 16 days ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Finally got my Seawitch hammered silver parts back from the powdercoater. God my guy is slow but he does a good job. The new playfield goes in next week then I just need to find the time for a cabinet repaint. Got to do my part to save the classic Sterns!
[quoted image]

That. Is. Sexy.
Do you know what powder brand/color was used?

#5154 16 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

That. Is. Sexy.
Do you know what powder brand/color was used?

Sure do. I bought it special and told my guy to use it when I dropped it off.

20210508_165729 (resized).jpg20210508_165740 (resized).jpg
#5155 16 days ago

So regarding stern spinners and the way they spin.... What about putting a system 11/wpc era williams spinner in there? These seem to spin really well, although that might be from the slightly punchier flippers at 50v vs. 43v. When I owned a Sinbad I replaced the crap stock plastic one with one from a black hole (which also seems to spin really well) and while it spun really well on Sinbad, the game couldn't keep up with it so it ended up being meh.

#5156 16 days ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Sure do. I bought it special and told my guy to use it when I dropped it off.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Awesome, THANK YOU. I will SO be doing this when I get to restoring my Meteor.

#5157 16 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Awesome, THANK YOU. I will SO be doing this when I get to restoring my Meteor.

No problem. I did the legs too in the same color. I’m waiting to install those after the repaint. Whoever painted my cabinet didn’t know what they were doing. Seems like it was put on with a roller and water based house paint.

#5158 16 days ago

I recently picked up a DragonFist. It has the original plasma displays. When I first picked it up all the displays worked ok. They slowly started to get weird when the current high score flashed in attract mode. At first they started showing every other digit, now it’s just a blank display on all 4 players when the high score should be flashing. The score from the last played game displays properly.

The displays test ok in test mode. What happened to my high score flash?

#5159 16 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

This.
The ball shoots out and bounces back into the chute and gets stuck. It is like the coil is too strong. Funny thing for me is My Big Game never did this until I restored it a put it back together and then I was dealing with cannon shots; I'm still puzzled by that.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Which leads me to something else that is related.
On your Big Game there is a 3" ball guide setting all the way down on the play field right in front of the outhole. I removed mine and two things started happening.
1) About 2% of the time the ball will head for the outhole and hit the ball guide under the apron and bounce back on the play field for a Lazereth ball.
and
2) Sometimes the ball will hit the outhole so fast that it gets kicked out without registering and if you drained on Ball 2 you get a free Ball 2 to play again.
The #1 situation I like. The #2 situation I don't like. ( Yeah, I know. Teacher #2 #2 )
This Star Gazer I am working on is a fast pin. And many times I was getting the fast bounce into the outhole and out to the shooter lane without registering the ball. I found a fix for this. It is hokey but it works to slow the ball down before entering the outhole.
A small strip to terrycloth wash cloth placed under some Gorilla tape kills that action. I first tried the terry cloth and then thought it would look cleaner if I cut a small strip of Styrofoam from a take-home food container. What happened was opposite of what I thought would happen. That styrofoam acted like a kickback spring. So I went back to terry cloth.
Terry cloth stops the ball cold. As noted, it looks hokey, but it shuts the ball down and asa player you never see it.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Quoted from cottonm4:

I read your link. I have bought several of these PL flipper assemblies. I have never had any problems with them. Not one. I have used #14 brass washers with all of them ( yes. you do have to be aware of how far your flippers are from the play field ).
I have supply of bushings that I bought, but somehow I wound up with a pair of bushings that had bushing towers that stuck about the play field about 1/2". Those were nice as I was able to cut them down to the height I wanted and allow plenty of clearance between the flipper bottom and play field surface. I think I bought those bushings for my Robocop.

Thanks for the feedback. I ordered two complete 475 assemblies, one rebuild kit, two 600 coils and two bushings.

#5160 15 days ago
Quoted from Hi-Fi:

I recently picked up a DragonFist. It has the original plasma displays. When I first picked it up all the displays worked ok. They slowly started to get weird when the current high score flashed in attract mode. At first they started showing every other digit, now it’s just a blank display on all 4 players when the high score should be flashing. The score from the last played game displays properly.
The displays test ok in test mode. What happened to my high score flash?

Turn the game off and reseat the display connectors. See if that solves the problem.

#5161 14 days ago

Got my Stars CPR PF swap done and getting things dialed in. Overall working well, just regretting using the knock off connectors for the mechs, they suck and I’ll be switching to molex.

I’m realizing now that it’s pretty shitty to have that exposed metal rail above the pop bumper, the ball gets smashed into that thing so much. A new ball is already looking pretty dinged up...

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#5162 14 days ago
Quoted from JLay:

I’m realizing now that it’s pretty shitty to have that exposed metal rail above the pop bumper, the ball gets smashed into that thing so much. A new ball is already looking pretty dinged up...

game look sweet!

I am not sure what you mean though? "exposed metal rail ABOVE the pop bumper"? Is that the ball guide being a a horizontal piece of metal instead of the usual vertical version on most newer game?
Never though about that but i could see when hitting it straight on, it could kink the ball

#5163 14 days ago
Quoted from JLay:

Got my Stars CPR PF swap done and getting things dialed in. Overall working well, just regretting using the knock off connectors for the mechs, they suck and I’ll be switching to molex.
I’m realizing now that it’s pretty shitty to have that exposed metal rail above the pop bumper, the ball gets smashed into that thing so much. A new ball is already looking pretty dinged up...[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That game is really pretty. I like the look of the white rubber. Nice work.

#5164 14 days ago

That Stars looks amazing!

#5165 14 days ago
Quoted from JLay:

Got my Stars CPR PF swap done and getting things dialed in. Overall working well, just regretting using the knock off connectors for the mechs, they suck and I’ll be switching to molex.
I’m realizing now that it’s pretty shitty to have that exposed metal rail above the pop bumper, the ball gets smashed into that thing so much. A new ball is already looking pretty dinged up...[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That looks awesome! I hope my resto turns out half that nice. I keep getting plagued by paint problems. Damn Florida heat and humidity!

#5166 14 days ago
Quoted from JLay:

Got my Stars CPR PF swap done and getting things dialed in. Overall working well, just regretting using the knock off connectors for the mechs, they suck and I’ll be switching to molex.
I’m realizing now that it’s pretty shitty to have that exposed metal rail above the pop bumper, the ball gets smashed into that thing so much. A new ball is already looking pretty dinged up...[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

man that sucks about the pop bumper ball guide. if that is stock that is a strange design. can you adjust the spoon so it only kicks on the sides and bottom. lame solution but what are you scoring or gaining when the ball kicks up there besides damage?

#5167 13 days ago

Top side stripped. The new playfield has been fitted with new oak rails and Stern stiffeners. Tomorrow the fun begins (the bottom side). Got my tumbler working overtime. Top side metal comes out tomorrow and bottom side goes in.

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#5168 11 days ago

I was under some belief there was a 7-digit rom upgrade for Galaxy. Was I dreaming? Nothing on Weebly's board, but I see a "pinmame bootleg" on ipdb. Is that able to be burned and used in a game?

#5169 10 days ago

I don’t know anything about that, but there are the Xpin 7lution displays you can buy.

#5170 10 days ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

I was under some belief there was a 7-digit rom upgrade for Galaxy. Was I dreaming? Nothing on Weebly's board, but I see a "pinmame bootleg" on ipdb. Is that able to be burned and used in a game?

The PinMAME ROMsets on IPDB are named so PinMAME can use them directly. There's otherwise no difference between them and the other ROMs. They will work on real hardware, i.e. the 7-digit bootleg is not specifically for PinMAME.

#5171 10 days ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

I was under some belief there was a 7-digit rom upgrade for Galaxy. Was I dreaming? Nothing on Weebly's board, but I see a "pinmame bootleg" on ipdb. Is that able to be burned and used in a game?

http://www.pinball4you.ch/okaegi/pro_soft.html

Check here for info and pics on it.

#5172 9 days ago

Another old Stern Joined the collection today Iron Maiden

Needs a little work , someone has changed the Flipper Mechs out to Gottlieb for something

I would like to put them back to Original but can not Find the Coil Value anywhere

Could someone please advise what are the correct Coils are

1 (resized).jpg2 (resized).jpg
#5173 9 days ago

Looks like the English manual posted is missing a ton of info for Iron Maiden but the German manual on IPDB states all 4 flippers are J-25-475/34-4500

#5174 9 days ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

Looks like the English manual posted is missing a ton of info for Iron Maiden but the German manual on IPDB states all 4 flippers are J-25-475/34-4500

I didn’t think to check there

Thank you

#5175 9 days ago

I’m having an issue where my GI lights flicker, and occasional feature lights flash when using my flippers. Does anyone happen to know what it might be?

I made a quick video where you can see the tilt light flash for no apparent reason as I mash the flippers.

#5176 9 days ago
Quoted from bigguybbr:

I’m having an issue where my GI lights flicker, and occasional feature lights flash when using my flippers. Does anyone happen to know what it might be?
I made a quick video where you can see the tilt light flash for no apparent reason as I mash the flippers.

What have you done on the power supply board/connectors in the lower cabinet so far. I had issues with both GI and feature lights on split second and galaxy. Right in a row. Both the result of a bad connection on the top left connector on the board. Any signs of burn marks on that connector?

#5177 9 days ago

Hi Guys

Trying to find Apron Cards for Iron Maiden

anyone have a file or link would be great

#5178 9 days ago
Quoted from rcbrown316:

What have you done on the power supply board/connectors in the lower cabinet so far. I had issues with both GI and feature lights on split second and galaxy. Right in a row. Both the result of a bad connection on the top left connector on the board. Any signs of burn marks on that connector?

I replaced the rectifier board and repinned all the connectors so it should be good. Voltages all check out at both the rectifier and the solenoid driver board.

I wonder if it could be a grounding issue or maybe a bad capacitor somewhere. This is my first solid state so I have to lean on tribal knowledge to work out some of these issues.

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#5179 9 days ago

The playfield swap is complete but I have issues. I lost about 6 switches and a coil locks on if I wiggle the harness. Looks like I have a short in the main harness. Those are the worst.

20210610_163410 (resized).jpg
#5180 9 days ago

I’m still trying to figure out wtf is going on with my Quicksilver matrix short. It doesn’t blow the pf fuse when I have slochar’s Big Game roms running but when I switch back to QS roms, it blows. I’m thoroughly confused what’s happening with these switches. Seems to be somewhere with the outlanes and upper lanes. But why would they blow the fuse?? If I disconnect the switch matrix the coils work fine.

#5181 9 days ago
Quoted from bigguybbr:

I replaced the rectifier board and repinned all the connectors so it should be good. Voltages all check out at both the rectifier and the solenoid driver board.
I wonder if it could be a grounding issue or maybe a bad capacitor somewhere. This is my first solid state so I have to lean on tribal knowledge to work out some of these issues.[quoted image]

What is going on with the fuse on the far right ? Is it soldered in ?

#5182 9 days ago
Quoted from Pinball_Postal:

What is going on with the fuse on the far right ? Is it soldered in ?

That’s the main fuse. They put a little rubber cover on them now as a safety feature.

#5183 9 days ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

The playfield swap is complete but I have issues. I lost about 6 switches and a coil locks on if I wiggle the harness. Looks like I have a short in the main harness. Those are the worst.
[quoted image]

Wish i had some advice but I do want to say that looks damn good though. Is that greatwich's stock clear? If so what part of the run. I have #8 and my finish looks a bit "mattey" compared to that. I'm considering clearing it again myself but if that is an early run I may skip it. . also where'd you get the score cards?

#5184 9 days ago
Quoted from rcbrown316:

Wish i had some advice but I do want to say that looks damn good though. Is that greatwich's stock clear? If so what part of the run. I have #8 and my finish looks a bit "mattey" compared to that. I'm considering clearing it again myself but if that is an early run I may skip it. . also where'd you get the score cards?

Mine was out of the same run. I think I got #15. A couple holes are off but I managed to get the main flippers to work without any tweaks. The clear looked great on mine with no modifications. It does have that digital printed look but it is a huge improvement over my OEM one. Putting additional clear on is dangerous game. So many things can go wrong. I would just install it as is. I already found my wire harness short / broken wire. I'll operate this weekend. 6" of a couple wires look good on the outside but there must be a break in the copper inside. If I touch them I lose 6 switches. Not sure where the apron cards came from. Something I just found on the net late last year.

#5185 8 days ago
Quoted from bigguybbr:

I replaced the rectifier board and repinned all the connectors so it should be good. Voltages all check out at both the rectifier and the solenoid driver board.
I wonder if it could be a grounding issue or maybe a bad capacitor somewhere. This is my first solid state so I have to lean on tribal knowledge to work out some of these issues.[quoted image]

On the J-1 connector on your rectifier board, it appears your white GI return wire is in the wrong slot. The white wire should be in pin #8, not #7 as you have it placed.

#5186 8 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

On the J-1 connector on your rectifier board, it appears your white GI return wire is in the wrong slot. The white wire should be in pin #8, not #7 as you have it placed.

Strike that. I see that you are using a 9-pin wafer for J-1 so your white wire in OK.

You are missing one blue wire for feature lights. But the 2 blue wires on my connector are bussed together on the rectifier board so it is probably not causing your problem. However, the 2 blue wires on mine feed different groups of feature lights inside that cluster of play field wire harness. You are probably OK with just the one blue wire but I am wondering where the other blue wire is at.

IMG_6707 (resized).JPG

The blue/white wire at pin 6 is the flipper power wire. I would suggest double checking all of your connectors inside the A2-J1 wafer. If you used the Trifurcon connector pin in the bottom of this pic you are probably OK. But if you used the flat style of connector on the top you could have a connection issue. Those flat connectors like to fold up and give lousy connection.

Screen Shot 2021-06-11 at 3.46.47 AM (resized).png

#5187 8 days ago
Quoted from rcbrown316:

I have #8 and my finish looks a bit "mattey" compared to that. I'm considering clearing it again myself but if that is an early run I may skip it.

My Seawitch play field ( I don't know what numbers it is) had a lot of dust in the clear. I ran some 5000-6000 grit sandpaper across the surface to knock some of the dust bumps down. I am not going to add more clear. I'll polish what I have with the buffer, shine it up and move on. Once you have the lights on and the play field glass on you won't notice that is doesn't sparkle like a diamond.

#5188 8 days ago

That Iron Maiden playfield is pretty cool looking. I've never seen that one before.

#5189 8 days ago
Quoted from DanMarino:

That Iron Maiden playfield is pretty cool looking. I've never seen that one before.

Yes the artwork really cool

I am still looking for Apron Cards if someone can help me out

Also just Replaced the Flipper Assemblies back to Original , so much better now to play

Cheers

#5190 8 days ago
Quoted from Dicky:

I am still looking for Apron Cards if someone can help me out

http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/

#5191 8 days ago
Quoted from DanMarino:

That Iron Maiden playfield is pretty cool looking. I've never seen that one before.

1200 were produced. 17 pinsiders own one. Not a common pin.

#5192 8 days ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

I’m still trying to figure out wtf is going on with my Quicksilver matrix short....
If I disconnect the switch matrix the coils work fine.

Which switch matrix connector(s) are you disconnecting to make it work?

If you've got a logic probe:
+ Reconnect the switch matrix.
+ Disconnect J5 from the solenoid driver board to disconnect the right drop target reset coil from activating (so it doesn't blow the fuse)
+ Probe pin 20 of the U2 decoder chip on the solenoid driver board around the time/event that usually causes the playfield fuse to blow and report the logic level.

#5193 8 days ago

Thanks Quench. My brother pinball_ric has a oscope and we poked around at it the other day but I'm not sure what he did.

Why would the PF fuse only blow when running QS roms though? I can run them all through coil test when running slochar's Big Game roms.

#5194 8 days ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

Why would the PF fuse only blow when running QS roms though? I can run them all through coil test when running slochar's Big Game roms.

I don't have enough diagnostic details yet to answer that - my previous post is hopefully a start to get there.
May I suggest you open a tech thread on it since your problem is likely to be something specific to your machine.
A couple of pictures of the coil/switches in question won't hurt.
Anyway I've got to head off now so won't be able to respond til later.

#5195 8 days ago
Quoted from bigguybbr:

That’s the main fuse. They put a little rubber cover on them now as a safety feature.

Quoted from cottonm4:

Strike that. I see that you are using a 9-pin wafer for J-1 so your white wire in OK.
You are missing one blue wire for feature lights. But the 2 blue wires on my connector are bussed together on the rectifier board so it is probably not causing your problem. However, the 2 blue wires on mine feed different groups of feature lights inside that cluster of play field wire harness. You are probably OK with just the one blue wire but I am wondering where the other blue wire is at.
[quoted image]
The blue/white wire at pin 6 is the flipper power wire. I would suggest double checking all of your connectors inside the A2-J1 wafer. If you used the Trifurcon connector pin in the bottom of this pic you are probably OK. But if you used the flat style of connector on the top you could have a connection issue. Those flat connectors like to fold up and give lousy connection.
[quoted image]

Your wiring is a little odd. That extra blue wire is marked as spare in the schematics.Capture (resized).PNG

In any event my connectors and rectifier board are all brand new, so I don't think that is the problem (it was doing that before I swapped the rectifier and repinned the connectors).

One of the other things I'm looking at is probably adding caps to the EOS switches. I noticed that there are some pretty good sparks coming from those. It may be normal. I don't know that I have ever watched flippers actuating from under the playfield before. I saw this thread on here about adding caps, and was thinking that might help. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/reducing-arcing-on-early-ss-pin-flipper-eos-and-cabinet-switches

#5196 8 days ago
Quoted from bigguybbr:

That’s the main fuse. They put a little rubber cover on them now as a safety feature.

It looks like the fuse is not clipped in at the bottom. It may be just barely contacting the fuse holder.

#5197 8 days ago
Quoted from Pinball_Postal:

It looks like the fuse is not clipped in at the bottom. It may be just barely contacting the fuse holder.

Yeah I noticed that when I went back in that I dislodged it when I was trying to get that little rubber cover back on, it's in there properly now (you can kinda see it in the video).

#5198 7 days ago

Anyone got a three drop target bank? Building a new QS

Neil.

#5199 6 days ago

So my Seawitch is playing great after the playfield swap. My only issue is one of my slings is machine gunning every once in awhile. I took a closer look and noticed a capacitor on the side machine gunning and no capacitor on the side working perfectly. Which configuration is correct. The sling switches seemed gapped correctly.

20210613_125129 (resized).jpg20210613_125145 (resized).jpg
-1
#5200 6 days ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

So my Seawitch is playing great after the playfield swap. My only issue is one of my slings is machine gunning every once in awhile. I took a closer look and noticed a capacitor on the side machine gunning and no capacitor on the side working perfectly. Which configuration is correct. The sling switches seemed gapped correctly.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Both slings are wired to each other. One cap is all you need.

For machine gunning, it is most likely related to you not have your sling switches adjust properly. Remove your sling plastics and start activating them. This should let you see which switch is causing your problem.

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