Nope, wish it was. I bought from a couple different vendors and got this one both times. Just decided to go with it.

I have some spare mirrored decals I got from Pinball Rescue before they closed shop. $5.00 plus the shipping. So, $6.00 total. Send me a PM if you want to switch.

That. Is. Sexy.
Do you know what powder brand/color was used?

Sure do. I bought it special and told my guy to use it when I dropped it off.

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So regarding stern spinners and the way they spin.... What about putting a system 11/wpc era williams spinner in there? These seem to spin really well, although that might be from the slightly punchier flippers at 50v vs. 43v. When I owned a Sinbad I replaced the crap stock plastic one with one from a black hole (which also seems to spin really well) and while it spun really well on Sinbad, the game couldn't keep up with it so it ended up being meh.

Awesome, THANK YOU. I will SO be doing this when I get to restoring my Meteor.

No problem. I did the legs too in the same color. I’m waiting to install those after the repaint. Whoever painted my cabinet didn’t know what they were doing. Seems like it was put on with a roller and water based house paint.

I recently picked up a DragonFist. It has the original plasma displays. When I first picked it up all the displays worked ok. They slowly started to get weird when the current high score flashed in attract mode. At first they started showing every other digit, now it’s just a blank display on all 4 players when the high score should be flashing. The score from the last played game displays properly.

The displays test ok in test mode. What happened to my high score flash?

Thanks for the feedback. I ordered two complete 475 assemblies, one rebuild kit, two 600 coils and two bushings.

Turn the game off and reseat the display connectors. See if that solves the problem.

Got my Stars CPR PF swap done and getting things dialed in. Overall working well, just regretting using the knock off connectors for the mechs, they suck and I’ll be switching to molex.

I’m realizing now that it’s pretty shitty to have that exposed metal rail above the pop bumper, the ball gets smashed into that thing so much. A new ball is already looking pretty dinged up...

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game look sweet!

I am not sure what you mean though? "exposed metal rail ABOVE the pop bumper"? Is that the ball guide being a a horizontal piece of metal instead of the usual vertical version on most newer game?
Never though about that but i could see when hitting it straight on, it could kink the ball

That game is really pretty. I like the look of the white rubber. Nice work.

That Stars looks amazing!

That looks awesome! I hope my resto turns out half that nice. I keep getting plagued by paint problems. Damn Florida heat and humidity!

man that sucks about the pop bumper ball guide. if that is stock that is a strange design. can you adjust the spoon so it only kicks on the sides and bottom. lame solution but what are you scoring or gaining when the ball kicks up there besides damage?

Top side stripped. The new playfield has been fitted with new oak rails and Stern stiffeners. Tomorrow the fun begins (the bottom side). Got my tumbler working overtime. Top side metal comes out tomorrow and bottom side goes in.

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I was under some belief there was a 7-digit rom upgrade for Galaxy. Was I dreaming? Nothing on Weebly's board, but I see a "pinmame bootleg" on ipdb. Is that able to be burned and used in a game?

I don’t know anything about that, but there are the Xpin 7lution displays you can buy.

The PinMAME ROMsets on IPDB are named so PinMAME can use them directly. There's otherwise no difference between them and the other ROMs. They will work on real hardware, i.e. the 7-digit bootleg is not specifically for PinMAME.

http://www.pinball4you.ch/okaegi/pro_soft.html

Check here for info and pics on it.

Another old Stern Joined the collection today Iron Maiden

Needs a little work , someone has changed the Flipper Mechs out to Gottlieb for something

I would like to put them back to Original but can not Find the Coil Value anywhere

Could someone please advise what are the correct Coils are

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Looks like the English manual posted is missing a ton of info for Iron Maiden but the German manual on IPDB states all 4 flippers are J-25-475/34-4500

I didn’t think to check there

Thank you

I’m having an issue where my GI lights flicker, and occasional feature lights flash when using my flippers. Does anyone happen to know what it might be?

I made a quick video where you can see the tilt light flash for no apparent reason as I mash the flippers.

What have you done on the power supply board/connectors in the lower cabinet so far. I had issues with both GI and feature lights on split second and galaxy. Right in a row. Both the result of a bad connection on the top left connector on the board. Any signs of burn marks on that connector?

Hi Guys

Trying to find Apron Cards for Iron Maiden

anyone have a file or link would be great

I replaced the rectifier board and repinned all the connectors so it should be good. Voltages all check out at both the rectifier and the solenoid driver board.

I wonder if it could be a grounding issue or maybe a bad capacitor somewhere. This is my first solid state so I have to lean on tribal knowledge to work out some of these issues.

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The playfield swap is complete but I have issues. I lost about 6 switches and a coil locks on if I wiggle the harness. Looks like I have a short in the main harness. Those are the worst.

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I’m still trying to figure out wtf is going on with my Quicksilver matrix short. It doesn’t blow the pf fuse when I have @slochar’s Big Game roms running but when I switch back to QS roms, it blows. I’m thoroughly confused what’s happening with these switches. Seems to be somewhere with the outlanes and upper lanes. But why would they blow the fuse?? If I disconnect the switch matrix the coils work fine.

What is going on with the fuse on the far right ? Is it soldered in ?

That’s the main fuse. They put a little rubber cover on them now as a safety feature.

Wish i had some advice but I do want to say that looks damn good though. Is that greatwich's stock clear? If so what part of the run. I have #8 and my finish looks a bit "mattey" compared to that. I'm considering clearing it again myself but if that is an early run I may skip it. . also where'd you get the score cards?

Mine was out of the same run. I think I got #15. A couple holes are off but I managed to get the main flippers to work without any tweaks. The clear looked great on mine with no modifications. It does have that digital printed look but it is a huge improvement over my OEM one. Putting additional clear on is dangerous game. So many things can go wrong. I would just install it as is. I already found my wire harness short / broken wire. I'll operate this weekend. 6" of a couple wires look good on the outside but there must be a break in the copper inside. If I touch them I lose 6 switches. Not sure where the apron cards came from. Something I just found on the net late last year.

On the J-1 connector on your rectifier board, it appears your white GI return wire is in the wrong slot. The white wire should be in pin #8, not #7 as you have it placed.

Strike that. I see that you are using a 9-pin wafer for J-1 so your white wire in OK.

You are missing one blue wire for feature lights. But the 2 blue wires on my connector are bussed together on the rectifier board so it is probably not causing your problem. However, the 2 blue wires on mine feed different groups of feature lights inside that cluster of play field wire harness. You are probably OK with just the one blue wire but I am wondering where the other blue wire is at.

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The blue/white wire at pin 6 is the flipper power wire. I would suggest double checking all of your connectors inside the A2-J1 wafer. If you used the Trifurcon connector pin in the bottom of this pic you are probably OK. But if you used the flat style of connector on the top you could have a connection issue. Those flat connectors like to fold up and give lousy connection.

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My Seawitch play field ( I don't know what numbers it is) had a lot of dust in the clear. I ran some 5000-6000 grit sandpaper across the surface to knock some of the dust bumps down. I am not going to add more clear. I'll polish what I have with the buffer, shine it up and move on. Once you have the lights on and the play field glass on you won't notice that is doesn't sparkle like a diamond.

That Iron Maiden playfield is pretty cool looking. I've never seen that one before.

Yes the artwork really cool

I am still looking for Apron Cards if someone can help me out

Also just Replaced the Flipper Assemblies back to Original , so much better now to play

Cheers

http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/

1200 were produced. 17 pinsiders own one. Not a common pin.

Which switch matrix connector(s) are you disconnecting to make it work?

If you've got a logic probe:
+ Reconnect the switch matrix.
+ Disconnect J5 from the solenoid driver board to disconnect the right drop target reset coil from activating (so it doesn't blow the fuse)
+ Probe pin 20 of the U2 decoder chip on the solenoid driver board around the time/event that usually causes the playfield fuse to blow and report the logic level.

Thanks @quench. My brother pinball_ric has a oscope and we poked around at it the other day but I'm not sure what he did.

Why would the PF fuse only blow when running QS roms though? I can run them all through coil test when running @slochar's Big Game roms.

I don't have enough diagnostic details yet to answer that - my previous post is hopefully a start to get there.
May I suggest you open a tech thread on it since your problem is likely to be something specific to your machine.
A couple of pictures of the coil/switches in question won't hurt.
Anyway I've got to head off now so won't be able to respond til later.

Your wiring is a little odd. That extra blue wire is marked as spare in the schematics.Capture (resized).PNG

In any event my connectors and rectifier board are all brand new, so I don't think that is the problem (it was doing that before I swapped the rectifier and repinned the connectors).

One of the other things I'm looking at is probably adding caps to the EOS switches. I noticed that there are some pretty good sparks coming from those. It may be normal. I don't know that I have ever watched flippers actuating from under the playfield before. I saw this thread on here about adding caps, and was thinking that might help. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/reducing-arcing-on-early-ss-pin-flipper-eos-and-cabinet-switches

It looks like the fuse is not clipped in at the bottom. It may be just barely contacting the fuse holder.

Yeah I noticed that when I went back in that I dislodged it when I was trying to get that little rubber cover back on, it's in there properly now (you can kinda see it in the video).

Anyone got a three drop target bank? Building a new QS

Neil.

So my Seawitch is playing great after the playfield swap. My only issue is one of my slings is machine gunning every once in awhile. I took a closer look and noticed a capacitor on the side machine gunning and no capacitor on the side working perfectly. Which configuration is correct. The sling switches seemed gapped correctly.

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Both slings are wired to each other. One cap is all you need.

For machine gunning, it is most likely related to you not have your sling switches adjust properly. Remove your sling plastics and start activating them. This should let you see which switch is causing your problem.