Quoted from vireland:
Maybe. My rule of thumb is to give a new playfield at least 6 months to cure in open air (take it out of the box). You'll never regret waiting, but you might regret not waiting.
No opinion. I've never done this on my 6 month+ aged playfields and never had an issue. YMMV.
How hard is STTNG to do a swap on? HARD. It's the worst one I ever did. SO MANY subways and diverters and things. Take it slow and take a LOT of pictures from many angles top and bottom as you strip it. When you think you've taken too many pics, you've only taken half as many as you should have.
This is 1000% spot on, especially with regard to doing the actual swap. TZ was the hardest one I ever did, and STTNG seems to have at least 30% more stuff on both sides. I would say the rotisserie is basically a MUST, and I find it helpful to have a work surface larger than the PF right next to it, so that I can lay the pieces down in the same location as they go on the PF. Even if you follow Victor's advice about taking photos, there will ALWAYS be one you need, and just didn't get the right angle or whatever. It really helps to have the parts, even small ones, in the approximate location so you can deduce what goes where.
I do also agree about letting it cure for a while. The clear is (usually? always? ) sprayed on in multiple layers; the lower layers take longer to cure apparently, so in letting it cure longer you have a more stable foundation and the soft lower layers won't cause a section to 'sink' lower. But if it's a Mirco, it's probably already been sitting for quite a while, so IMO you don't really need to go crazy on that.
Pre-drilling the clear is really helpful if you've had it re-cleared by Ron Kruzman, say - his clear is VERY thick, and you really do need to pre-drill - but again, Mirco isn't Kruzman, so you'd probably be ok. However, I would still do it just to be on the safe side. Most holes are fine, but occasionally you'll get one that has a lot of the clear dripped into it, and when you put your screw in, it puts lateral pressure on the wood and can cause it to split a tiny bit. Obviously you don't want that.
The last thing I'll say is to inspect areas of the game where something needs to fit in a routed out area, where the wood has been routed down and the clear sprayed on top. The routing is roughly square, and the mech would expect this, but the clear will cause that area to become rounded a bit, and the mech won't fit as precisely. You'll want to gently re-rout those so that the mech is sitting square. Not sure if that made sense or not..