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(Topic ID: 233216)

Pre-War Club! 1930 - 1939

By TopMoose

5 years ago

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Latest reply 29 days ago by Irishbastard
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Linked Games

Five Star Final Jr. Gottlieb, 1932
American Beauty Daval, 1934
Army Navy Rockola, 1935
Ballyhoo Bally, 1932
Big League Genco, 1940
Eureka Bally, 1938
Fleet Jr Bally, 1934
Fleet Sr. Bally, 1934

There are more than 8 games linked to this topic.
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#217 2 years ago

BEN

PlanetExpress

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Hilliard, OH

2y 89,800 1,204 29

Quoted from Blake:
Found a video of a 1934 Bally Fleet that shows the wiring depicted as I have in my schematic. So I know that will work as the game is accomplishing the same objective of firing a coil and ringing a bell simultaneously after a switch closure.

That is a Fleet Jr, and the bell shouldn’t have a separate coil, it should be struck by a hammer when the cannons fire from the coil. In this photo from mine, you can see how the steel plate fires the cannons and moves the bell striker, while the copper plate resets the game without triggering the bell or cannons (steel plate moves when the copper plate moves, but the copper plate stays in place when the steel plate moves). Creative bit of design!

0B240F09-2252-4ECB-8FBA-67A3C4CFA6EC (resized).jpeg

#219 2 years ago

BEN

PlanetExpress

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Quoted from PoBoyPinball:
I hate to be that guy but I can’t find a lot of info on this what a 1935 Genco Baseball pinball machine value buying maybe.

Fully restored and perfect: $1,000 Clean and working: $800 Needing restoration: $300

3 weeks later

#244 2 years ago

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PlanetExpress

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Quoted from Blake:
Can anyone confirm that the stool pigeon tilt ball size on 1930 Gottlieb's is 1/2" ? Curious if this is standard on Bally, Rock-ola, Jennings, exc. of the same era.
thanks
Blake
EDIT: Looks like Rock-Ola may have used 3/4"

Checked my Bally Fleet Jr… it uses a 9/16” steel ball.

1 week later

#248 2 years ago

BEN

PlanetExpress

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2y 89,800 1,204 29

Quoted from Blake:
Anyone had to repair a shooter rod/ball lift housing? Or anything made of similar metal. I believe it’s pot metal or white metal. It’s a little more then a hairline crack and has not completely broke. I only noticed when getting ready to put in ultrasonic cleaner.
There is an open void on the backside that I feel something similar to JB weld could be applied but I’d like to hear ideas. I also need to make sure it’s going to adhere.
Thanks
Blake
[quoted image][quoted image]

I’d put it through the ultrasonic to degrease, then JB Weld the back and call it a day.

#252 2 years ago

BEN

PlanetExpress

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2y 89,800 1,204 29

Quoted from Blake:
Thanks for the recommendation. I am going to add a piece of sheet metal to the repair. I’m still troubleshooting exactly how to go about it. But I think I have a pretty good idea. We shall see how it comes out. Curious what epoxy you use?

There is nothing wrong with adding sheet metal, but I wouldn’t think it is needed. I would guess this was cracked by rough handling, not actual use. In the machine and doing its job, there are no forces tugging or pulling on this casting, just the shooter or ball lift smacking into it.

#259 2 years ago

BEN

PlanetExpress

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Quoted from Blake:
Still 8 hours until fully cured. I think this should hold. Sanded both surfaces. Painted a thick layer of JB weld on the repair surface, then evenly pressed the brace into position. The sheet metal worked great and I was able to get it to lay nice and flat. Used a pencil to plug screw hole. Waxing it made for easy removal.
Used JB weld original formula as it’s what I had on hand. I’ve ordered some higher end epoxy. I wondered to about using bondo resin as I have worked with that a lot for busted corners on cabs and such. But people seem to be having great success with epoxy so I’ll try that in the future.
I was debating on filling the cavity completely but I didn’t think it was necessary. What do you think?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Nice clean work, that’ll hold forever!

2 weeks later

#265 2 years ago

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PlanetExpress

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2y 89,800 1,204 29

Quoted from PolePosition:
Hello All,
I'm relatively new to this era of pins, and looking to see if anyone else out there has a 1935 Mills Pearl Harbor. I am working on one for a friend, and part of the decision to go forward full blown with the project is whether I can find or replicate the missing pieces. If anyone has one and is willing to share some pics, I would greatly appreciate it!
I have many questions, but thought I'd start by seeing if anyone has this particular one. Here's a few pics of the game. Missing the metal cover piece that goes on playfield near the shooter rod, access doors, and coin mech linkage. Also, the ball lift has been hacked up.
Thank you!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Very cool, certainly deserves restoration. It still has the payout mech, which is very good news. OLDPINGUY may be able to provide some details.

2 weeks later

#273 2 years ago

BEN

PlanetExpress

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Started work on my 1933 Genco Silver Cup: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/1933-genco-silver-cup

I found the last person to work on it left behind a mint 1930’s Yankee Handyman 2H ratcheting screwdriver. This is going into my pinball toolkit!
A8DD465A-5CA3-4773-BB90-5967416806FD (resized).jpeg
BEBDABB4-DBBE-4014-BD0C-79EF9E6B8CBA (resized).jpeg

4 months later

#286 1 year ago

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PlanetExpress

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Quoted from ourdave76:
Hello. Looking for info about this bagatelle game, date, value, etc. Any tips where else to look would be appreciated to.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

R Rothschild and Son was a bar room and billiards manufacturer and retailer from Cincinnati. Here is an example of their work: https://www.facebook.com/JeffRubysSteakhouse/photos/ms.c.eJxljcENwEAMwjaqIArJ3f6LVX1Vgq~_FDUEJV3OEpXYe~;qQ5RqqcoNNygo5OlBXvVVGGWxsbXSezn~;UClF0vTw~-~-.bps.a.10155095684951576/10155095685591576

That bagatelle was made by Montague Redgrave and then retailed through R Rothschild and Son, as detailed here: https://americanhistory.si.edu/blog/2012/10/the-bagatelle-wizard-instead-of-the-pinball-wizard.html

“The bulk of the profits came from a new, larger version of the original table top game that was promoted to saloon owners as a way to "entertain your customers and make money." The Parisian Bagatelle Table "combines gravity with muscular power." Marketed by Rothschild's & Sons, the game was advertised as "two actions worked in harmony on an inclining table which has great advantage over the cue." For just a nickel you could buy a handful of balls and try your luck for 20-30 minutes. With this glowing endorsement, bagatelle tables became a common fixture in taverns, inns, saloons, and penny arcades.”

#287 1 year ago

BEN

PlanetExpress

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2y 89,800 1,204 29

Quoted from ourdave76:
Hello. Looking for info about this bagatelle game, date, value, etc. Any tips where else to look would be appreciated to.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

IMO, the history is really cool, but the actual value isn’t much. I guess the highest $ value would be to someone who already has a R Rothschild and Son bar or billiards set, who wants a cool showpiece from the same vendor. Likely it’d bring the most value in a Cincinnati area sale, too.

A few more items for you:

Pacific Pinball Museum’s example:
https://m.facebook.com/pacificpinball/posts/did-you-know-montague-redgrave-was-a-british-immigrant-living-in-cincinnati-ohio/2007221352664582/

Redgrave’s patent:
https://pdfpiw.uspto.gov/.piw?docid=00115357&PageNum=1&IDKey=88B5D4F8D92D&HomeUrl=http://patft.uspto.gov/netacgi/nph-Parser?Sect1=PTO1%2526Sect2=HITOFF%2526d=PALL%2526p=1%2526u=%25252Fnetahtml%25252FPTO%25252Fsrchnum.htm%2526r=1%2526f=G%2526l=50%2526s1=0115357.PN.%2526OS=PN/0115357%2526RS=PN/0115357

Original patent model is actually on display (not just in the collection) of the National Museum of American History:
https://americanhistory.si.edu/collections/search/object/nmah_689012

I don’t see an 1881 patent granted for Redgrave, but I think that could be related to this (losing) patent infringement suite against Singer, where Redgrave was trying to claim a new patent, but the device changes were not large enough to warrant a new patent:

https://books.google.com/books?id=_a4KAAAAYAAJ&pg=PA306&lpg=PA306&dq=Montague+Redgrave+patents&source=bl&ots=ZQ-kqKMydp&sig=ACfU3U0TiDXS9YTxbk_iigfE2u0w7iFDhA&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwj5hpeforX5AhXkCDQIHQjnCeoQ6AF6BAguEAI#v=onepage&q=Montague%20Redgrave%20patents&f=false

#288 1 year ago

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PlanetExpress

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Quoted from ourdave76:
Hello. Looking for info about this bagatelle game, date, value, etc. Any tips where else to look would be appreciated to.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Here’s what I could find for auction results for Redgrave bagatelle games (some are older results, but there hasn’t been much change in the demand for bagatelle):

3935D4E0-A5BC-493A-A348-20841E8F2B09 (resized).jpeg

5FFEC680-F47C-490C-916A-9A89017B6B18 (resized).jpeg

747CE8E6-DED5-4430-A05A-597A1DDC4310 (resized).jpeg

DDFA4F30-57D4-48BA-BC0E-4C6AEB81A44B (resized).jpeg

EEEEAAE3-585F-4CBA-9086-038868E41440 (resized).jpeg

#292 1 year ago

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PlanetExpress

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Quoted from Darcy:
The whole plunger and lane cover just has a different look to it. I was just speculating based on the photo, with the difference of the '1876' on the playfield and the patent date on that plaque of '1881'. Making a game to celebrate 1876, 5 years later could of happened, since no one is around from that time, one can only guess.

In the linked example, the playfield is marked “PAT FEB 15, 1876”, so my thought is that something about the playfield was patented in 1876 and that became the model number. https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/antique-1876-redgrave-original-parlor-1866116312

In this image of the instructions from a Redgrave, it calls out the 1871 and 1876 patents.

This site has some other examples: http://www.pinballhistory.com/bagatelle.html

redinst.jpg (resized).png

2 months later

#311 1 year ago

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PlanetExpress

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2y 89,800 1,204 29

Quoted from Irishbastard:
Just found this thread, had posted on a different one. What's the value of this machine? Debating picking it up as a project.
[quoted image]

That one was made by Stoner for Chicago Coin. Stoner machines normally sell for a bit more than a Genco or Bally, as they tend to be a little fancier. If I was buying, my offer would be $350, as that machine doesn’t have any “wow factor” type mechs. Fully restored and playing well I’d say $750 is top of market.

#314 1 year ago

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PlanetExpress

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Quoted from Irishbastard:
So I picked up that "Waldorf", curious, mine appears to have a different curved front with different ornate cast metal. I can't find a picture online that matches this machine. I'm currently stripping the ugly blue paint off. I can not find a pic of what it looked like originally. It appears to have been a light green, with a black front, with the black going down the sides into a design, with a silver? back.
The legs also do not match pics online, these look like woodrail/bingo legs, but inside the cabinet looks original with two bolt holes per leg (online shows one hole on the other machines). There are threaded brass mounts inside the cabinet for the leg bolts.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

IPDB lists a “The Waldorf (Senior De Luxe)” model, but has no pictures… Maybe yours is that model? Hopefully one of the Stoner collectors here will know.

1 week later

#342 1 year ago

BEN

PlanetExpress

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2y 89,800 1,204 29

Quoted from zenbone:
Question for the group, has anyone clear coated their playfield on a pre-war? I am restoring a bally blue ribbon and got to the playfield. Was going to just take it apart and clean/wax it with carnuba and pit it back together but I could clear it since it is stripped down. Thoughts?
[quoted image]

I never do clear coat on pre-wars, instead I clean the playfield, then rub down with Howard’s Feed-N-Wax. Repeat the Feed-N-Wax daily until the playfield stops absorbing it, then rub off the remaining Feed-N-Wax and coat with Blitz 1 Grand.

Here’s a before and after for the Feed-N-Wax:
72A7B465-0F64-441A-A2A2-E2834E733611 (resized).jpeg
021FE5BC-3C04-4D96-B3CC-0A2947212889 (resized).jpeg

1 week later

#347 1 year ago

BEN

PlanetExpress

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2y 89,800 1,204 29

Quoted from hjh632:
I picked this up several years ago minus the coin mech which maybe would have had the manufacturer and date on it. Has anyone ever seen one before and have any information for me? I've done some Googling and came up blank.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks to me like the top and side rails of an ABT Horseshoe and the bottom of another machine, with an addition made to the left side rail (bottom kind of looks like a Mills, but I can’t think of one with that door shape). Not the same horseshoe casting, but I’d be surprised if the ABT machine wasn’t the inspiration.

https://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=3158&picno=52479

#349 1 year ago

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PlanetExpress

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Quoted from zenbone:
Big thanks to planetexpress for the advice.... 5 days of Howard's followed by some mothers has this blue ribbon playfield ready for action.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks awesome, nice work!

4 weeks later

#357 1 year ago

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PlanetExpress

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2y 89,800 1,204 29

Quoted from Pinbub:
Does anyone have a good method for getting what looks like water stains off of this baffle ball? I've tried naptha, Howard's feed n wax, novus #2,(very lightly), and flitz, in a test spot. I can always strip it again with naptha if anyone has any recommendations. I'm trying to preserve, not restore it. Howard's feed and wax is doing an amazing job on the cabinet.
[quoted image]

Here are the options I would try:
Feed N Wax- if you didn’t leave it on for a day or more, try that with a heavy coat on a small area.
50:50 white vinegar and hot water- rub it gently, then wipe with a towel soaked in just water, then pat dry.
Baking soda mixed with enough water to make a paste- rub it gently, then wipe with a towel soaked in just water, then pat dry.
50:50 white vinegar and olive oil- rub it gently, then wipe with a towel soaked in just water, then pat dry. (if it doesn’t work, at least you have the start of a dressing)

The idea of trying these is that either a base (baking soda) or acid will react with the minerals in the stains, or an oil will moisturize the surface.

Good luck!

6 months later

#400 9 months ago

BEN

PlanetExpress

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Just finished my Wings (in a Juggle Ball cab, with the factory table option). Only replacement parts are the marbles and the stickers, everything else was cleaned, polished and reused. It’s ready for another 90 years
Before:
IMG_1485 (resized).jpeg IMG_1488 (resized).jpegIMG_1486 (resized).jpegIMG_1487 (resized).jpeg

After:
IMG_1482 (resized).jpegIMG_1483 (resized).jpegIMG_1484 (resized).jpeg

#402 9 months ago

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PlanetExpress

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Quoted from bjmclrn:
That’s looks great, I have a wings which I also restored it I had to dismantle the whole front section to seperate the playfield from the cabinet, did you need to do that. Also I note that you have the the game of skill and the price labels any chance of getting a copy ?
[quoted image]

Yes, I had to remove the spinning mech from the topside and knock out the piece of wood between the lockdown bar and the coin door to slide the playfield out. I got lucky and started from the right end, as there was no way to see that the left side of the wooden bar was keyed to lock in place (if I’d started from the left I would have needed to build a replacement bar).

I’ve attached the scan I made of the original apron stickers and a PDF of my ok’ish recreation (just used the closest looking fonts in Word). For the apron ones cut inside the line. For the arch one cut outside the line (that sticker was already gone on mine, so I copied the text from an IPDB image.)

WingsPinball.pdf

WingsPinballScan (resized).jpeg

#406 9 months ago

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PlanetExpress

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Quoted from Miguel351:
If you two don't mind, I'd like to recreate the graphics for these labels for you. I'll get the fonts as dead on as possible and post the PDF back here, but I think I'll need the overall width of each one to get things just right. Then, it'll just be up to you to get them printed on the appropriate material.
Looks like this might be the right stuff to print on:
https://www.amazon.com/Printable-Silver-Sticker-Inkjet-Printers/dp/B09TVWDN39/ref=sr_1_3
A Cricut or Silhouette would be perfect to cut it out with, too.

Awesome, thanks so much! The ones you made for my Silver Cup were perfection.

#409 9 months ago

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PlanetExpress

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Quoted from Miguel351:
Got the artwork done. Just need the overall width for each of those labels. If one of you with the game can send me those, that'd be great!

3 3/4” for the large, 2 3/4” for the small.

WingsPinballScan (resized).jpeg

#413 9 months ago

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PlanetExpress

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Quoted from Miguel351:
Ok. Here's the PDF for the apron art. There's a trick to it, though. I put the dieline on there in pink, but I put the color on the outside of the line. That means that if you print it out yourself on whatever sticker paper you find, you would just have to cut just to the inside of the pink color, preferably by using an X-acto knife on a cutting mat. Make sure when you do print it, that you're printing it at 100% size.
But, if you've got a Cricut or Silhouette cutting machine, you should be able to use the dieline for the cutter's software. Lining it up to get it just right on the cutting mat is your problem to solve, though.
Edit: For some reason, Pinside is showing an unknown error when trying to upload the PDF. Here's a Dropbox link to the file. If and of you have any issues with the file, let me know what's happening or what you're seeing and I can try to remedy it.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/xoaxq01b62xjy3z/PRINTWingsApron.pdf?dl=0

Awesome, thanks for doing this! I’ve got a Cricut and will see if I can figure out how to set it up to cut these. If I can figure it out, I’d be glad to run labels off for anyone who needs them.

#416 9 months ago

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PlanetExpress

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Quoted from Miguel351:
Alright, I wanted to make a second post for this since it's slightly involved and wanted to give it some more detail for you since you'll be trying to cut these out on your Cricut.
Linked below, I've got the artwork file again, but with some minor adjustments I made and some rearranging to make it easier to print. I've also got the SVG file that you'll need for the Cricut machine. For whatever reason, they don't like PDFs.
I put the artwork in both files at the same exact location, just to keep things congruent, and just in case anybody else wanted to try their hand with other programs to print and then cut out as there are some machines that can do both concurrently.
With the Cricut, the images on the SVG file show up arbitrarily. You end up aligning them where ever you want. So, the important part is, once you print out the artwork, to put it in the same exact location when you're ready to cut it out. On both files, I placed the upper left corner of the outline of the top label at exactly 2" in and 2" down from the top left corner of a standard A4, 8.5"x11" sheet of paper. So, if you place the sheet you printed out of the lettering at exactly 0,0 on the cutting mat, and place that you left corner of the shapes from the SVG file at exactly 2,2 it should come out just right.
Test everything with plain paper first. Get it to the point where it's repeatedly hitting the right marks and cutting correctly, then move over to the proper material.
If you have any issues with either file, don't hesitate to let me know and I can fix it right away. Remember to print the PDF at 100% scale, or "No Scaling", or whatever your print dialog box calls it.
These files supersede and officially replace the previous one I made:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/tblvkxvjnhoazc9/PRINTWingsApron.pdf?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/dq9szylkjftd4p0/PRINTWingsApronOUTLINE.svg?dl=0
Good luck!

Thanks, I’ve got some sticker paper on order (what I had on hand is more of a foil finish than the matte finish of the originals) and should be able to try this out on the weekend. I really appreciate all your help!

#419 9 months ago

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PlanetExpress

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Quoted from Irishbastard:
Anyone know how many marbles I need for this? I know I need a red and green, and it says 10 balls for 5 cents...so 10?
Stoner "Waldorf"
[quoted image]

Yup, 10.

1 week later

#422 9 months ago

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PlanetExpress

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Quoted from ryan1234:
Anyone have a schematic for a 1936 Stoner- Turf Champs?
Thanks in advance

https://www.ipdb.org/files/2671/usp_2093293.pdf

#424 9 months ago

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PlanetExpress

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Quoted from ryan1234:
HOLY CRAP!!! Thank you!

You’re welcome.

IPDB is awesome, I just remembered looking at that one, as I have an adjacent machine (Mad Cap from ‘36). That patent application is awesome, I wish I had that level of detail for all my games.

#430 9 months ago

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PlanetExpress

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Quoted from Irishbastard:
Curious, finally bought marbles for my Stoner machine, but it won't accept dimes. What should I look at on the coin mech?
[quoted image]

Pull it out, take it apart, clean and polish each part. They are a pretty simple assembly.

#435 8 months ago

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PlanetExpress

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Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:
Surprised I haven’t posted in this topic before, I’ve been following it since it started!
Here’s my newest game, just got it this afternoon! It fully works and plays, this thing is a real hoot.
What should I use to clean the wood? I don’t want to do any damage to the original finish, and it needs a good cleaning. I saw somewhere it might have a bell, but the original flyer makes no mention of a bell.
Happy to join the Pre-War club, these things are just such cool pieces of history!

Howard Products are what I use on all my pre-war stuff, very mild and super results. For playfields, I use the Feed-N-Wax (just keep reapplying daily until the wood stops absorbing, then clean off any remaining residue and coat with carnauba). For the cabs and legs I use the Restor-A-Finish followed by Feed-N-Wax. You can get it at Lowe’s and HD.

https://www.howardproducts.com/product/restor-a-finish/

#437 8 months ago

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PlanetExpress

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Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:
Holy smokes, you’ve got a lot of them!! That Cloverleaf one always interested me with how much travel the ball gets off the plunge!

Is Murphy’s Wood Cleaner and Oil Soap an acceptable cleaner? Not planning on going crazy with stripping and refinishing the legs. I’m strongly against stripping the finish on things (slightly) older than my grandmother.
Just want to give it a good clean and get some of the mildew off of it. It’s dirty, probably never been cleaned, and it has a weird white powder where the legs attached to the body. It smells like it was is a moist basement or garage at some point. Someone did a decent job wiring up the transformer and thankfully never refinished anything! Only issue is I believe something is missing on the tilt unit, whatever the ball rests on is not present.
Hopefully I can find some other Scientific Machine Corp game owners to reference.
The Restor-a-finish looks great! more shit I have to buy, damn this hobby!!

I would stay away from Murphy’s, as water is the first ingredient. Howard’s Clean-A-Finish would be a good alternative. The Restor-A-Finish seems to soften the existing finish and smooth everything out, but the Clean-A-Finish would be a lighter option.

#439 8 months ago

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PlanetExpress

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Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:
Just got some Restor-A-Finish Walnut and that stuff is like magic. WOW.
The legs look amazing, yet at the same time, they look just like the ones on the front that haven’t been cleaned and looked very good to begin with.
Awesome stuff!!

Awesome, glad you’re pleased with the results. That’s always what I find myself thinking, too…. It somehow looks so much better, but also the same.

#442 8 months ago

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PlanetExpress

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Quoted from Jappie:
Picked up this Rock-Ola Wings for €155 yesterday. Bit of a basket case, eh... But: the spinning part of the playfield works and the important stuff seems to be mostly there.
The plan is to make it presentable and of course fully working. Looks like the wood underneath that yellow is too far gone to go back to bare wood and clear laquer. So I might just fix up the cabinet a bit and paint it black.
We'll see. Lots of projects in line before this one, so it'll take a while before I even start working on it. It's good to see more Wings owners on here.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Congrats on the pickup!

Miguel351 did an awesome job recreating the apron labels: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pre-war-club-1930-1939/page/9#post-7654853

#446 8 months ago

BEN

PlanetExpress

Pinside+ Frequent

Hilliard, OH

2y 89,800 1,204 29

Quoted from Jappie:
Miguel351 Thanks so much for your help
I don't have a Cricut machine (I'll be honest: I had to look up what it is). However, they do seem handy for the hobby. I wouldn't mind having those files in case I ever buy one. For now, having the artwork and outlines in one file would be amazing.
On another note: does anyone know what size balls Wings uses? And are they supposed to be metal, ceramic or something else?

Wings should use glass marbles of about 22mm or 7/8”. Here is what I’m using: https://www.moonmarble.com/p-2482-lustered-blue-cobbles.aspx

4 months later

#505 4 months ago

BEN

PlanetExpress

Pinside+ Frequent

Hilliard, OH

2y 89,800 1,204 29

Quoted from TiltingT:
I haven't been able to see the machine in person yet, I have a friend that knows him and got me these pics and asked of he would be willing to sell it. The guy is kinda a hoarder and won't give me a price but accepts offers.. Just trying to get some info so I can make a fair offer. So any info will help.. In the meantime I will try to find out more on my end. Thanks for the help!

The racial content likely reduces the interest some, but it’s pretty mild for the era (Jennings “Chocolate Drops”). If it is a non-payout, I’d say $350’ish if the parts are all there and the wires aren’t all hacked. If it’s a payout and the mech is there, $500’ish, with a bit extra if it also has the printer.

Just my personal perspective…. I pay a premium for Jennings machines, but only when they have the cool cast aluminum front and leg mounts. Without the bling, “Red Man” just isn’t a very exciting looking game in a lineup.

#510 4 months ago

BEN

PlanetExpress

Pinside+ Frequent

Hilliard, OH

2y 89,800 1,204 29

Quoted from cait001:
nah, indigenous stereotypes are a dime-a-dozen in pinball, especially 30s-60s.
and yeah like 50% of the value of that table is wrapped up in the payout mech. Is the payout mech complete but not working? Probably 40% less value. Is the payout mech missing? Maybe 70% less value.

I was thinking more of the pinball museum crowd not being interested in displaying the more problematic themes. Don’t see “Chocolate Drops” or “Minstrel Man” selling to someone who’s placing them in a museum where they are playable.

#512 4 months ago

BEN

PlanetExpress

Pinside+ Frequent

Hilliard, OH

2y 89,800 1,204 29

Quoted from thirdedition:
Thanks, that is my better-half's game. She bought it a few years ago at Pinfest.
We spent some hours getting it cleaned and polished. After the show it needs a some love and cleaning, but it survived all weekend once again.
Thanks again TopMoose for hanging out and scheming with us for Pincinnati next year. Hopefully we will be able to have 4 or 5 in properly lit spot for people to play.

Let me know if you get something going for pre-wars next year, I could bring a machine or two (and maybe a floor lamp… lol).

3 weeks later

#541 3 months ago

BEN

PlanetExpress

Pinside+ Frequent

Hilliard, OH

2y 89,800 1,204 29

Quoted from cait001:
Is there a standard method for dealing with cloudy varnish on wood? Anyone have a recommended YouTube tutorial perhaps?

Howard’s products are the best, I’d start with their recommendations: https://www.howardproducts.com/product/restor-a-finish/

#543 3 months ago

BEN

PlanetExpress

Pinside+ Frequent

Hilliard, OH

2y 89,800 1,204 29

Quoted from WalrusPin:
Works decent, but don't try to use it for a full strip or you will be disappointed. Also, I ended up buying a few colors to get the right one.

Yeah, it’s not a stain, it’s supposed to just soften the existing finish and blend stuff together.

1 month later

#557 63 days ago

BEN

PlanetExpress

Pinside+ Frequent

Hilliard, OH

2y 89,800 1,204 29

Quoted from WalrusPin:
I'm going to checking out a Genco Honey: https://www.ipdb.org/search.pl?any=Honey&search=Search+Database&searchtype=quick#1228
Is anyone familiar with that table?

You’ll do better asking in the wood rail area, or the Genco owners group, as it’s newer than pre-war.

I am not familiar with that specific game, but in general for those years the bumper caps can be really tough to source. PBR doesn’t make them (Steve will suggest you either move up to a size that he makes, or start your own bumper cap company). Mayfair used to have some in the tubs of stuff they brought to shows, but last time I checked they had few/none.

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