(Topic ID: 233216)

Pre-War Club! 1930 - 1939

By TopMoose

5 years ago


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  • Latest reply 11 days ago by way2wyrd
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There are 560 posts in this topic. You are on page 8 of 12.
#351 1 year ago

I just posted a thread about a rare machine I founded called Buttons and figured I would share it here. It was produced by Daval Manufacturing in 1937. There's not a single photo of this game on the internet (it was not even in Pinside's database until I posted the thread) so I figured I'd take some pics and send them to the IPDB. This one is a real survivor, it's in really nice shape. Unfortunately the scoring doesn't work (no power to the coil), but I do get backbox lighting if I manually move the stepper unit. I rewired the whole game since the original wire was flaking off in my hand.

I'm not sure how to get it working - there is a power transformer in the bottom of the cabinet that is so old I don't know if it can be fixed, but I'm not getting any of the higher voltages out of it. Is there a modern equivalent that can be purchased to replace this?

Here's the thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/found-a-rare-game-called-buttons

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#352 1 year ago

A lot of games were converted to wall power aftermarket.

Wow, clean bottom board. That game was probably converted to transformer/wall operation from dry cell battery packs.

The note to the operator in the back might be a clue, as well as the discoloration inside the back door (easy for the operator to change batteries).

There will probably only be two voltages (if that) output by the transformer, 6.3V and 12V. It might only be 12V, or even something higher like 17V - what type of bulbs are used?

I wouldn't power the coils in the game with anything higher than that until you've tested them at 6V and at 12V.

My guess is that the game uses 12V only.

If the transformer isn't working, you can also replace with a switching 12V supply with sufficient amperage to handle the coils. Good luck! Very cool game, and thanks for sending photos to IPDB.

#353 1 year ago

I love how the legs attach, too. Very cool and very different. Seems like a better way to go and much easier to make, but I wonder if the potential for irreparable damage due to unpredictable collapsing or folding of the legs was the concern. Well, scratch that, I see that the legs are actually notched so the cab sits on them. Hmm, I wonder what it was, then, that made them switch back to doing it on the corners...

#354 1 year ago

That transformer appears to use a selenium rectifier. DANGER, get that entire transformer/rectifier out of circuit and install a modern unit as mentioned above. You can leave the old unit in place for originality. Serious fire risk, but the smell of the burnt rectifier will pollute your nose and your entire house for years to come. You will want to sell the house and move, if your wife doesn't kill you first.

#355 1 year ago

Can you post a close-up pic of that transformer/rectifier? Electropak?

1 week later
#356 1 year ago

Does anyone have a good method for getting what looks like water stains off of this baffle ball? I've tried naptha, Howard's feed n wax, novus #2,(very lightly), and flitz, in a test spot. I can always strip it again with naptha if anyone has any recommendations. I'm trying to preserve, not restore it. Howard's feed and wax is doing an amazing job on the cabinet.

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#357 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinbub:

Does anyone have a good method for getting what looks like water stains off of this baffle ball? I've tried naptha, Howard's feed n wax, novus #2,(very lightly), and flitz, in a test spot. I can always strip it again with naptha if anyone has any recommendations. I'm trying to preserve, not restore it. Howard's feed and wax is doing an amazing job on the cabinet.
[quoted image]

Here are the options I would try:
Feed N Wax- if you didn’t leave it on for a day or more, try that with a heavy coat on a small area.
50:50 white vinegar and hot water- rub it gently, then wipe with a towel soaked in just water, then pat dry.
Baking soda mixed with enough water to make a paste- rub it gently, then wipe with a towel soaked in just water, then pat dry.
50:50 white vinegar and olive oil- rub it gently, then wipe with a towel soaked in just water, then pat dry. (if it doesn’t work, at least you have the start of a dressing)

The idea of trying these is that either a base (baking soda) or acid will react with the minerals in the stains, or an oil will moisturize the surface.

Good luck!

#358 1 year ago

Not my auction. Scarce title. Gottlieb Register.

ebay.com link: itm

#359 1 year ago

A friend sent me these two games he knows of for sale. Are they worth pursuing? Or would anyone here like me to get the sellers info?
I'm assuming they are in Wisconsin Milwaukee/Madison area.

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#360 1 year ago
Quoted from JonCBrand:

A friend sent me these two games he knows of for sale. Are they worth pursuing? Or would anyone here like me to get the sellers info?

The Rockola Juggleball is a pretty neat game

2 weeks later
#361 1 year ago

Hello everyone! Recently came into possession of Harry William's Contact from 1934. It is in fairly good condition, considering it's almost 90 years old! I was surprised when I couldn't find any video of this game in action, seeing its importance as the first EM game. I decided to document its gameplay, so I made a little video if anyone is interested.

#362 1 year ago

Machine - For Sale
Buttons Archived
Partially shopped/refurbished - “I have the unexpected opportunity to purchase aa grail machine on my wishlist and need to raise funds, so unfortunately I have to part ways with a super rare pre-war machine I pick...”
2023-03-09
Patchogue, NY
1,000
Archived after: 102 days
Viewed: 778 times
Status: Didn't sell to Pinsider

I have the unexpected the opportunity to pickup a grail game and sadly need to let go of some machines to raise funds, including the Buttons machine I posted earlier. I was hoping to get it fully working this year but have to cut the project short. If anyone is interested, please check out the ad and contact me. Thanks!

#363 1 year ago

There are a Bally Jumbo and a Rock-ola Credit payout listed for sale. What are they worth? They are a 3 hour drive away so can not tell condition.

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#364 1 year ago
Quoted from 4hammer:

There are a Bally Jumbo and a Rock-ola Credit payout listed for sale. What are they worth? They are a 3 hour drive away so can not tell condition.
[quoted image]

Really cool looking games! I'd be making an offer on those AND the Coke machine underneath, though.

#365 1 year ago
Quoted from 4hammer:

There are a Bally Jumbo and a Rock-ola Credit payout listed for sale. What are they worth? They are a 3 hour drive away so can not tell condition.
[quoted image]

If they still have the mechanical innards, $800-$1200 for the pair. Hollow cabinets, $300-$600. At least that's what I would offer. Up to you if/how to haggle.

Considering the rough exterior and how they are stacked, I doubt the mechanical parts are still there. But those cabinets and play fields look like they should clean up great with a little love.

And yes, see if the coke machine is also for sale

#366 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinwizkid:

Machine - For Sale

Buttons

New ad!

Partially shopped/refurbished - “I have the unexpected opportunity to purchase aa grail machine on my wishlist and need to raise funds, so unfortunately I have to part ways with a super rare pre-war machine I pick...”

1 day ago

Patchogue, NY
(561 km)

Pinwizkid

1,500 (OBO)

I have the unexpected the opportunity to pickup a grail game and sadly need to let go of some machines to raise funds, including the Buttons machine I posted earlier. I was hoping to get it fully working this year but have to cut the project short. If anyone is interested, please check out the ad and contact me. Thanks!

Beautiful game! I hope someone snaps it up. What a looker.
Of course I'll admit I'm dying to know which of the curious obscure games on your wishlist you're funding
Please let us know once it's secured.

#367 1 year ago
Quoted from 4hammer:

There are a Bally Jumbo and a Rock-ola Credit payout listed for sale. What are they worth? They are a 3 hour drive away so can not tell condition.
[quoted image]

Have a nice Jumbo, fun game with lots of small payouts to keep your interest up. These look rough. Would want better pictures and description before driving 3 hours. Rock-Ola cabinet is coming apart & side door missing. Did it get wet or vandalized? No legs in evidence. What else is missing? No playfield glass & dirt could be hiding more problems (delamination, rust). Could still be ok, or totally not worth the drive. Guestimate 800 to 1200 for when they are average looking working games, in line with prices I've seen at auctions and shows.

12
#368 1 year ago

WINGS is finally complete. All original except for the following new bright steel shooter rod - made to replace original as I have return spring rather than I thing was a rubber stopper, front cabinet repaired damage caused by someone trying to get inside I presume to try and get it working as it was solid nothing moved. I repaired the front by keeping as much of the original wood then a new front veneer to hide the damage, lastly a veneer to the part of the semi circular wood at the bottom of the playfield the leadin edge completely smashed up. See pictures

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#370 1 year ago

That artwork is really cool. In my head, I hear this in a Rollergames announcer voice: "shoot the onion!"

#371 1 year ago

Bummer, not local or I would grab this.

#372 1 year ago

We had fun taking turns playing a Golden Harvest at the Fall 2022 York PA show. Really enjoyed seeing it there. Plays much slower than a one ball game. Took a few games to get a winner, but no money came out (noticed the "battery eliminator" was not plugged in). Which is ok. We were dipping into the owners can of nickels to play the game.

Would have bought the game at York for the right price, or this Colorado game if it was closer.

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#373 1 year ago
Quoted from Biffbar:

We had fun taking turns playing a Golden Harvest at the Fall 2022 York PA show. Really enjoyed seeing it there. Plays much slower than a one ball game. Took a few games to get a winner, but no money came out (noticed the "battery eliminator" was not plugged in). Which is ok. We were dipping into the owners can of nickels to play the game.

Would have bought the game at York for the right price, or this Colorado game if it was closer.

Well, that's interesting. This Golden Harvest also appears to be in a 1935 Bally 'Ace' cabinet. I will have to investigate further. Thanks for posting the image.

#374 1 year ago
Quoted from DennisDodel:

Well, that's interesting. This Golden Harvest also appears to be in a 1935 Bally 'Ace' cabinet. I will have to investigate further. Thanks for posting the image.

I know of a few games from Bally 1937 and 1938 that had what I call "cabinet overlap". Promo photos and even a few models made with one cabinet, then along the way, they change the cabinet art to the new version, then that art lasts through the start of the next one. Wouldn't surprise me if this was a common thing back then.

1 week later
10
#375 1 year ago

Showing off my new acquisition: Broadway!

Manufactured by (checks notes) "unknown manufacturer" in "1933-ish."
There's not a lot of info about this one, but it's pure mechanical and the play field art is similar to what Genco was doing in the early 30's. The coin door was nailed shut, but once I got in, I removed the first layer of grime and took out the (original?) steel balls.

Bad news: the 20mm glass marbles I have on hand are too big for this game, so I had to place a new order for 16mm marbles.
Good news: I found$1.27 in pennies inside.

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11
#376 1 year ago

Hurray! Got the first sign of life out of my 1936 Bally Roundup payout today!

Gotta love the '12 coin escalator' that the game came with, showing the previous played coins to prevent cheating.

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1 month later
#377 10 months ago

Rockola Army Navy auction on eBay currently.

ebay.com link: itm

#378 10 months ago

Selling a nice world’s series in Maine.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/129362

#379 10 months ago

Does anyone in this thread have a guide or resources explaining how to best replace an old 1930s power transformer with a modern power supply? Specifically to provide coil power? Any recommendations/do's/don'ts would be appreciated.

#380 10 months ago
Quoted from ZNET:

Rockola Army Navy auction on eBay currently.
ebay.com link: itm

For posterity, this eBay auction was a brown top version Army Navy which had a variety of cosmetic deficits. The cabinet (painted a hideous white with red horizontal stripe) and legs (painted silver from the cabinet level up in front and painted completely white in rear) required a professional repaint. The cabinet had a section which was cut and replaced as if to form a door, which should be repaired. The lock down bar was missing as was the marquee. The leg shields and bolts were painted red. Buckwerx supplies all of those missing/painted items.

The original coin door was present, albeit hanging off somewhat. The coin door hole in the cabinet would need some rebuilding and the coin door would need to be polished and details painted. The original shooter plate, plunger and ball lift rod were present and could be polished.

The playfield was covered in a layer of dirt. However the playfield graphics were generally intact and would likely clean up pretty well. The playfield's 2 upper chute castings needed to be cleaned and repainted. The center "football" casting similarly needed to be stripped and repainted. The apron also had incorrect and bad red and yellow paint on it and the tilt outcove needed to be repainted. The nuts atop the diverters were painted red and the pins were painted red and yellow (yuk!). However, all of these cosmetic issues were relatively minor.

The big question was the mechanical condition. A bidder likely requested photos. The seller posted only a single photo from the vantage of the opened coin door and nothing more. That photo showed a relatively clean, rust-free view of some of the mechanical structures. If the seller had simply lifted the playfield and included detailed photos of the internals, I suspect that sellers would have entered even higher bids. The same is true of the playfield. The seller included only one blurry photo of the upper hemisphere of the playfield!

This auction (Warren, MI eBay seller was "mbest9319") garnered 38 bids from 9 separate bidders. The game sold for $8,600 (plus tax & shipping). In my opinion, that was a good deal for the buyer, if the internals are complete and in decent shape. With some restored Army Navy games selling for over $20K and one recently fetching $22K, this auctioned game really won't require too much work to transform it into a game worth twice its value and probably considerably more if it's done professionally.

It wasn't that many years ago that a couple of nicely restored Army Navy games sold for $13K to $18K. Just like with NIB modern games, I guess that $22K is the new $15K.

The last eBay auction of an Army Navy, to my memory, occurred in about 2004 or a few years thereafter. I remember bidding on the game from my office computer. I just cannot pinpoint the year, at the moment. The game was also a brown-top version, fairly nice overall, with a few cosmetic issues. It needed some mechanical work as well, as I recall. However, the woodrails were rounded, like a more traditional prewar cabinet. The cabinet was black with silver highlights and green on the interior cabinet. The legs were painted black as were the bolts and shields. The marquee was absent. The shooter plate was correct but well-worn. The painted highlights on the coin door were absent. The coin door might have been a reproduction, since repro doors were available back then.

The IPDB includes photos of that game. That example sold for about $6,500. My bid was unsuccessful. Fortunately, I acquired a terrific example a couple of years later, which is also included in the IPDB photo array.

#381 10 months ago
Quoted from ZNET:

For posterity, this eBay auction was a brown top version Army Navy which had a variety of cosmetic deficits. The cabinet (painted a hideous white with red horizontal stripe) and legs (painted silver from the cabinet level up in front and painted completely white in rear) required a professional repaint. The cabinet had a section which was cut and replaced as if to form a door, which should be repaired. The lock down bar was missing as was the marquee. The leg shields and bolts were painted red. Buckwerx supplies all of those missing/painted items.
The original coin door was present, albeit hanging off somewhat. The coin door hole in the cabinet would need some rebuilding and the coin door would need to be polished and details painted. The original shooter plate, plunger and ball lift rod were present and could be polished.
The playfield was covered in a layer of dirt. However the playfield graphics were generally intact and would likely clean up pretty well. The playfield's 2 upper chute castings needed to be cleaned and repainted. The center "football" casting similarly needed to be stripped and repainted. The apron also had incorrect and bad red and yellow paint on it and the tilt outcove needed to be repainted. The nuts atop the diverters were painted red and the pins were painted red and yellow (yuk!). However, all of these cosmetic issues were relatively minor.
The big question was the mechanical condition. A bidder likely requested photos. The seller posted only a single photo from the vantage of the opened coin door and nothing more. That photo showed a relatively clean, rust-free view of some of the mechanical structures. If the seller had simply lifted the playfield and included detailed photos of the internals, I suspect that sellers would have entered even higher bids. The same is true of the playfield. The seller included only one blurry photo of the upper hemisphere of the playfield!
This auction (Warren, MI eBay seller was "mbest9319") garnered 38 bids from 9 separate bidders. The game sold for $8,600 (plus tax & shipping). In my opinion, that was a good deal for the buyer, if the internals are complete and in decent shape. With some restored Army Navy games selling for over $20K and one recently fetching $22K, this auctioned game really won't require too much work to transform it into a game worth twice its value and probably considerably more if it's done professionally.
It wasn't that many years ago that a couple of nicely restored Army Navy games sold for $13K to $18K. Just like with NIB modern games, I guess that $22K is the new $15K.
The last eBay auction of an Army Navy, to my memory, occurred in about 2004 or a few years thereafter. I remember bidding on the game from my office computer. I just cannot pinpoint the year, at the moment. The game was also a brown-top version, fairly nice overall, with a few cosmetic issues. It needed some mechanical work as well, as I recall. However, the woodrails were rounded, like a more traditional prewar cabinet. The cabinet was black with silver highlights and green on the interior cabinet. The legs were painted black as were the bolts and shields. The marquee was absent. The shooter plate was correct but well-worn. The painted highlights on the coin door were absent. The coin door might have been a reproduction, since repro doors were available back then.
The IPDB includes photos of that game. That example sold for about $6,500. My bid was unsuccessful. Fortunately, I acquired a terrific example a couple of years later, which is also included in the IPDB photo array.

The collector who won the April 2023 Army Navy eBay auction posted the message below on Instagram. Evidently, the seller paid $50 for the game, over his wife's objections.

On Facebook, the auction winner posted better photos which showed that the game was mechanically intact and that the playfield cleaned up well.
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#382 10 months ago

love it

1 week later
12
#383 10 months ago

Hello… here are some photos of the Army Navy we acquired in the Ebay auction. So far everything is cleaning up nicely.

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#384 10 months ago

the under-side photo of the Army Navy is just DREAMY.
What a glorious testament to mechanical design. So so SO many lazy ass game designs in the same years by companies trying to make a fast buck and Rock-ola blesses the world with THAT!

#385 10 months ago
Quoted from Tap91Gameroom:

Hello… here are some photos of the Army Navy we acquired in the Ebay auction. So far everything is cleaning up nicely.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

She's cleaning up nicely. Hopefully, the paint issues can be adequately resolved.

Congratulations again and please post photos of your restoration progress.

3 weeks later
11
#386 9 months ago

Found this gem World's Fair Jigsaw at a local auction (among a bunch of antiques and Civil War memorabilia). Paid $400 and brought it home to find it in fully working condition! Spent some time cleaning the ball-launch and coin-slide parts (pretty grimy) and now it's smooooooth. Ordered some Novus 2 and plan to dedicate my Memorial Day weekend to cleaning the playfield and puzzle pieces. Some of the puzzle pieces have a little trouble flipping properly -- probably just dirty.

Might spring for some of the Buckwerx repro parts (legs, since the current ones don't appear to be original; marquee sign; instruction sticker; etc.).
Really not sure how much this is worth, but the smaller/lighter size makes for a great living room display, so I'll hold onto it a while!

Wanted to show some "before" pictures and I'll post playfield "after" ones, well... after.

Cheers.

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#387 9 months ago

Hi castamps,

Great find! Novus 2 will work well on the playfield. I advise being very cautious on the puzzle pieces--I believe they may have been produced using printers ink. Maybe try a mild soap and water and a microfibre towel. Be careful to avoid using anything with alcohol or ammonia as either product will obliterate the ink on the playfield or puzzle pieces. Good luck, Jigsaws are my favorite Rockola game--I have four Rockola games in my atrium which leads to my living room.

-Nate

#388 9 months ago
Quoted from Nate:

Hi castamps,
Great find! Novus 2 will work well on the playfield. I advise being very cautious on the puzzle pieces--I believe they may have been produced using printers ink. Maybe try a mild soap and water and a microfibre towel. Be careful to avoid using anything with alcohol or ammonia as either product will obliterate the ink on the playfield or puzzle pieces. Good luck, Jigsaws are my favorite Rockola game--I have four Rockola games in my atrium which leads to my living room.
-Nate

You may want to give naphtha a try before Novus 2 on a playfield of this age. I've found the Novus 2 can be a little too aggressive.

#389 9 months ago

Thanks for the words of advice Nate and @walrusnips. I'm nervous to clean the puzzle pieces and tbh I'd rather leave them a bit dirty than damage the paint. I'm assuming Dawn 3x is NOT a "mild soap"...

That sounds like a grand entrance, Nate!

Walrus , is there any risk of naphtha damaging dried paint? A quick Google showed it's a paint thinner (for wet paints), and I've never used naphtha before.

#390 9 months ago
Quoted from castamps:

Thanks for the words of advice Nate and WalrusNips. I'm nervous to clean the puzzle pieces and tbh I'd rather leave them a bit dirty than damage the paint. I'm assuming Dawn 3x is NOT a "mild soap"...
That sounds like a grand entrance, Nate!
Walrus , is there any risk of naphtha damaging dried paint? A quick Google showed it's a paint thinner (for wet paints), and I've never used naphtha before.

No, it shouldn't take the paint off. To be safe, test it in an inconspicuous spot. I would not use it on the puzzle pieces, just use a lightly damp rag on those and be very gentle.

#391 9 months ago
Quoted from castamps:

Thanks for the words of advice Nate and WalrusNips. I'm nervous to clean the puzzle pieces and tbh I'd rather leave them a bit dirty than damage the paint. I'm assuming Dawn 3x is NOT a "mild soap"...
That sounds like a grand entrance, Nate!
Walrus , is there any risk of naphtha damaging dried paint? A quick Google showed it's a paint thinner (for wet paints), and I've never used naphtha before.

I highly recommend Gemini CP100 (which is mostly naphtha) for both the playfield and puzzle piece cleaning. It won’t harm either. I've used it extensively on prewars and modern pinball machines for years. I have used it safely on Jigsaw puzzle pieces as well.

Good luck.

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4 weeks later
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#392 8 months ago

Thrilled to finally join the club today. I fell in love with the 1930s pinball machines at TPF a couple of years ago and found one semi locally. After a 200 mile round trip, I finally have one! It's a 1932 Goofy by Bally.

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It's mostly complete. It needs a new glass as well as a new shooter rod knob. It came with penny coin slot. I'm not sure if it's the right one, but I'll see if it lines up. It's very dirty, but looks like it should clean up fairly nicely.

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#393 8 months ago

Nice! You gonna add your 914 to this thread now? https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vehicles-that-a-pinball-machine-fits-in

Haha!

#394 8 months ago

Here are some updates on the Goofy pinball with some nice photos from a real camera (not my cell phone!) as well as some questions.

Some photos in the condition that I got it. Lots of dirt and cobwebs. I discovered a mouse had taken up residence under the playfield at some point. Lots of mouse droppings, and paper scraps, and the mouse chewed around the hole for the coin slot.

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It looks like there was a sticker on the front at one point. Does anyone know what that would have been and if anyone is reproducing it?
EO5C2772 (resized).jpgEO5C2772 (resized).jpg
EO5C2777 (resized).jpgEO5C2777 (resized).jpg
What's left of the shooter rod and it's tip. The tip seems like a rubber sleeve that dried up and split in half. Someone put tape around it and it's quite solidly on there.

Removing playfield and other components...
EO5C2797 (resized).jpgEO5C2797 (resized).jpg
...to reveal a disgusting mess. This was the bottom of the cabinet after vacuuming up the mess.
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After lots of cleaning and some Old English, it actually looks pretty good.
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Doing some playfield cleaning. I'm trying to be very careful not to take off any of the paint.
EO5C2804 (resized).jpgEO5C2804 (resized).jpg

I made a trip to Lowes and grabbed a wooden knob that looks like it would match from an aesthetic perspective. I gave it a bit of a dark stain. I may do another pass as it is still a little lighter than the rest of the cabinet.
EO5C2813 (resized).jpgEO5C2813 (resized).jpg
So how do I go about attaching it? I know the end of the rod is cross-hatched to grip, but after 2 or 3 plunges, it comes off. Is there a glue I should use? The hole in the knob is a very tight fit. I have to use a mallet to tap it onto the shooter rod.

EO5C2819 (resized).jpgEO5C2819 (resized).jpg
It's starting to come together really nicely!

It looks like at one point the triangle on the lower left came off and someone nailed it back onto the playfield.
EO5C2825 (resized).jpgEO5C2825 (resized).jpg
Unfortunately, it looks like they put it on backward. I don't see nails on the other ones. Were they originally glued on?

I'm missing one of the nails and spacers for the metal rail. Does anyone have recommendations on where to find one?
EO5C2828 (resized).jpgEO5C2828 (resized).jpg
Finally, it came with 6 marbles. Usually, I've seen these with steel balls. Is there a benefit to one over the other?

Thanks everyone, and I hope this wasn't too many photos!

#395 8 months ago

Does anyone know what this game is?

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14
#397 8 months ago

I managed to get what I consider I very special game today. Automatic Industries Whiffle-Zip (1932). It’s Serial number 105. I Would be pleasantly surprised if this isn’t the last one left in existence. It’s a little bit of a long story why it’s important, but it’s the start of pinball.

Arthur Paulin was an out of work carpenter during the Great Depression who made a game in December 1930 as a Christmas present for his daughter. After showing it to several people in town, a decision was made to convert it to a vending amusement machine and try and sell them.

Arthur and 3 associates filed a patent and formed a company eventually called Automatic Industries. They released the game and called it whiffle. This is generally accepted as the first pinball machine.

It was an overnight success and dozens of companies sprung up making whiffle clones. They couldn’t call them whiffles so the generic term of pin ball game started being used. Some of the companies like Gottlieb and Bally made improved designs that made the original Whiffle obsolete. Anyways, in September 1931, the original Whiffle patent filing was rejected and had to be resubmitted, which meant that all these companies could continue manufacturing without immediate threat of paying royalties or facing penalties.

By early 1932, whiffle was obsolete compared to what some of the other manufacturers were making. Automatic Industries released their new game to put them back in competition. Whiffle-Zip. It’s the first electromechanical game by over a year and is totally different than what you would think of as a pinball. (keep in mind pinball was still less than a year old at the time) it was too expensive and Automatic Industries went bankrupt. Just a few months after the bankruptcy their patent on pinball finally got approved.

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#398 8 months ago

Very cool! You mention it's the first electro-mechanical game. I suspect it must be the first multi-player pinball also?

#399 8 months ago
Quoted from AlexF:

Very cool! You mention it's the first electro-mechanical game. I suspect it must be the first multi-player pinball also?

First multiplayer, first game with magnets.

11
#400 8 months ago

Just finished my Wings (in a Juggle Ball cab, with the factory table option). Only replacement parts are the marbles and the stickers, everything else was cleaned, polished and reused. It’s ready for another 90 years
Before:
IMG_1485 (resized).jpegIMG_1485 (resized).jpeg IMG_1488 (resized).jpegIMG_1488 (resized).jpegIMG_1486 (resized).jpegIMG_1486 (resized).jpegIMG_1487 (resized).jpegIMG_1487 (resized).jpeg

After:
IMG_1482 (resized).jpegIMG_1482 (resized).jpegIMG_1483 (resized).jpegIMG_1483 (resized).jpegIMG_1484 (resized).jpegIMG_1484 (resized).jpeg

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