Five Star Final Jr.
Gottlieb, 1932
American Beauty
Daval, 1934
Army Navy
Rockola, 1935
Ballyhoo
Bally, 1932
Big League
Genco, 1940
Eureka
Bally, 1938
Fleet Jr
Bally, 1934
Fleet Sr.
Bally, 1934Quoted from OLDPINGUY:That is amazing! Does it have a Payout mech?
The cost of the game was really high back then....doubt many exist...first Ive seen, and in amazing shape!
Nice Find!
I’m pretty sure it does. There’s a motor underneath. Gotta work on getting it power.
Quoted from cait001:cool find! Can you post a better picture of the game's backbox? IPDB could sure use your photos too, btw https://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=3465&picno=44569&zoom=1
Seems to be a great gameplay concept: top lane determines Dealer's Hand (center rollover is dealer goes bust) then hole on the playfield is your hand.
If you beat the dealer, you get the payout on the odds wheel relating to what hole you used to defeat the dealer!
I definitely will gets pics on there.
I used to have this:
https://pinside.com/pinball/machine/scoop
1939 Bally Scoop. I never got it working and sold it to, I think, someone from Illinois.
More pics. The playfield and the score mech colors are spot on. It’s almost like it was taken out of an establishment and put at someone’s home or storage.
051BA0AA-CB5C-48A9-B187-6A84512C92A4 (resized).jpeg08F7186F-6840-476F-86BE-E42891DD531B (resized).jpeg0FB10D86-E036-48DB-B3C6-CD97CDE4D76A (resized).jpeg44ED6B89-235C-47ED-ACFF-38D85A4CB53D (resized).jpeg927D7BCB-AF77-4785-BD3A-EE6F2E4E89B3 (resized).jpegA8108F9D-F29F-4A8F-8CF4-89D935669646 (resized).jpegTop'Em is one damn cool payout machine. Love the multiple dynamic play aspects of the changing odds AND the "house hand to beat" off the plunge.
Quoted from Tmezel:The transformers are not working and probably dangerous to fiddle with. What power requirements do I need for the lights and playfield?[quoted image]
6v brought the lights to life!
photo of a GOLD COAST from an Allentown thread https://images.pinside.com/a/3b/a3b919413cd28739a980f56901dbb1757ce6186c/resized/large/a3b919413cd28739a980f56901dbb1757ce6186c.jpeg
What's the machine next to it? who's there right now? 
If anyone in the northeast Ohio, northwest Pensylvania or western New York areas is looking for a 30's game, this Zingo has been on Craigslist for a while. It's a PM game, probably from 1931.
akroncanton.craigslist.org link
It's a bit pricey but maybe the seller would negotiate. It looks to be in decent condition.
Quoted from TopMoose:Hooray, it made it safely! Enjoy! I'm loving the Signal Sr.
yay, glad you like it! Any recommendation for the tape marks on the cloverleaf lockdown bar? It unfortunately pulled a bit of the veneer when I took the tape off.
Quoted from cait001:yay, glad you like it! Any recommendation for the tape marks on the cloverleaf lockdown bar? It unfortunately pulled a bit of the veneer when I took the tape off.
Oh no! I didn't think the tape was that strong. If it doesn't buff out, maybe a light wax to at least protect the finish?
ok everyone, OFFICIAL* NEW RULES FOR CLOVERLEAF!
main rule change: only the first ball into any one pocket scores.
This changes the game play up and forces you to search for shots you have not yet hit.
The 1000 pocket is fairly reliable and easy. hit it once? 1000. Hit it again? ZERO for that ball.
Have you already hit 2 pockets in the same area? You probably want to aim elsewhere or odds are you're wasting your shot.
TopMoose included a green ball and a red ball. I am just using a single green ball in the mix, which since it's CLOVERLEAF, will be the one ball that scores double.
Get the green ball into a pocket that already has a ball? Zero x 2 is still zero.
( *by the power vested in me )
Quoted from cait001:ok everyone, OFFICIAL* NEW RULES FOR CLOVERLEAF!
main rule change: only the first ball into any one pocket scores.
This changes the game play up and forces you to search for shots you have not yet hit.
The 1000 pocket is fairly reliable and easy. hit it once? 1000. Hit it again? ZERO for that ball.
Have you already hit 2 pockets in the same area? You probably want to aim elsewhere or odds are you're wasting your shot.
TopMoose included a green ball and a red ball. I am just using a single green ball in the mix, which since it's CLOVERLEAF, will be the one ball that scores double.
Get the green ball into a pocket that already has a ball? Zero x 2 is still zero.
( *by the power vested in me )
Isn't it great to make coding upgrades without having to buy a new EPROM? 
After a while, My goal was to make it into as many of the 7 "zones" as possible, rather than going for a high score. I could usually get four or five.
oh hey there is a thread just for Genco owners: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/genco-owners-club
Quoted from bingopodcast:Following! I love working on pre-wars and own one at the moment. Hopefully more in my future.
Welcome! Now, about incorporating Top 'Em into your
multi-singleball machine...
Quoted from cait001:Welcome! Now, about incorporating Top 'Em into your multi-singleball machine...
Would love to, but the horserace games are the specific games I'm handling. The rules on Top 'Em are top notch.
I find the Western games fascinating, and that find above is exceptional.
hey pre-war crew, anyone know when the first pinball machine had a scoring motor? You know, the kind of motor with a timing diagram?
What was the first coin-op with one? (I'm assuming some kind of early slot?)
just stumbled across this video: Dick Bueschel seminar at Expo 85
I'm a big fan of his books, but it's awesome to hear the stories told by the author himself.
TMezel's machine needs some legs at some point and I'd like to make some for it but I'm lacking some of the dimensions I'll need. Was the top of cabinet height somewhat standard back then? What about the width of the legs? Does the 45 degree rebate (or rabbet) in the leg go to the center or just short of? I can get most of the other measurements from the cabinet wear and the design from the flyer but lack everything else.
Does anyone here have any info or input that will help make some close to original legs?
Hi all,
I'm loving seeing some of these old machines!
A friend has recently taken a Bally Bumper out of storage and it's got some electrical gremlins (more a case of a previous gremlin trying to fix it and dong more damage...). Wondering if anyone on here could point me in the direction of some schematics?
Thanks in advance!
PS, I'll put up some pics next time I'm around at their place 
Quoted from way2wyrd:That looks amazing Tim. Got it playing yet?
-Jeff
Have the power supply and verified the coin mech works. Still need to connect the rest.
I'm going to be hosting a "pinhistory" booth at the Ottawa show in September, anyone here want to join me?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/opgs-ottawa-pinball-amp-gameroom-show-2019-sep-21-22
Would love to have more early machines. Also looking for 40s and 50s machines.
more details: https://www.maaca.org/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=25597
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:Officially in the pre-war club! Shout out to Nate for the grade ‘A’ restoration. The ingenuity of a Pure Mechanical game is pretty awesome. Play Ball!!!![quoted image]
Jealous!! Congrats. I need to find a Pre-War too. So sweet.
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:Officially in the pre-war club! Shout out to Nate for the grade ‘A’ restoration. The ingenuity of a Pure Mechanical game is pretty awesome. Play Ball!!!![quoted image]
That is absolutely a beautiful restoration. Congrats.
Quoted from TopMoose:My brother brought his kids over a few weeks ago to play my pins. They thought TOTAN was okay and Night Moves was pretty good, but they were lining up to play Signal - by far the hit of my collection.
*high-five*
Quoted from TopMoose:My brother brought his kids over a few weeks ago to play my pins. They thought TOTAN was okay and Night Moves was pretty good, but they were lining up to play Signal - by far the hit of my collection.
my girls: 'batman 66 is fun, iron maiden is scary, the grandpa-pins are the best!' 
CE71DBF6-6708-4D45-8B40-15371E35D754 (resized).jpegIts about time to see some chatter about these pins! I've been a big
fan for years and have collected a few.
Mills OFFICIAL, BIG BROADCAST, CRISS-CROSS-A-LITE,
FORMATION, KILROY (post-war?), VARIETY. Probably a few more.
Not much difference between later pre-war and immediate post war.
Does anyone have conversion pins from the war years?
Steve
Pre-war fans!!!!
Don't miss the ultimate prewar for-sale posting: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/103398
the famous "Rock-ola trifecta" lineup all at once, except all restored by master restorer Mike Hasanov.
If you don't know Hasanov's work, he's like HEP, except for pre-wars and other obscure coin-op machines. his youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/efalsst23/videos
Quoted from Penguindeity:Does anyone have any information on Stoner Super-Zeta? I got a hold of one, and the only pictures or info I can find online are of my exact machine.
[quoted image]
I have never seen one before but I have so many questions! Please please please document this heavily and get it all up on IPDB?
Why is there a credit counter if you just win a "free game"?
What are the other shapes/colours on the backglass? Just decoration or do they have bulbs behind them and indicate things?
Does each ball keep going until it lands in a hole?
the holes light up these pairs:
1 6
1 9
2 10
2 5
8 5
1 7
8 3
9 3
2 4
9 8
Occurence chart:
1: 3
2: 3
3: 2
4: 1
5: 2
6: 1
7: 1
8: 3
9: 3
10: 1
so in your six sots there are 4 shots you MUST hit to win the game, as they only have one hole for that number:
1 6
2 10
1 7
2 4
And that gives you 1, 2, 4, 6, 7, 10. So you need 3, 5, 8, 9, which you need to make out the remaining two shots:
1 9
2 5
8 5
8 3
9 3
9 8
But the only combination that works is 8 5 and 9 3.
So in order to win this game you MUST get all 6 balls into these 6 holes:
1 6
2 10
1 7
2 4
8 5
9 3
If you get a ball into ANY of these 4 holes, you cannot win:
1 9
2 5
8 3
9 8
Absolutely devious.
Assuming even odds on all holes:
6/10 * 5/9 * 4/8 * 3/7 * 2/6 * 1/5
= 0.004761905
= 0.476 % chances of winning
am I doing the math right?
Quoted from cait001:I have never seen one before but I have so many questions! Please please please document this heavily and get it all up on IPDB?
Why is there a credit counter if you just win a "free game"?
What are the other shapes/colours on the backglass? Just decoration or do they have bulbs behind them and indicate things?
Does each ball keep going until it lands in a hole?
the holes light up these pairs:
1 6
1 9
2 10
2 5
8 5
1 7
8 3
9 3
2 4
9 8
Occurence chart:
1: 3
2: 3
3: 2
4: 1
5: 2
6: 1
7: 1
8: 3
9: 3
10: 1
so in your six sots there are 4 shots you MUST hit to win the game, as they only have one hole for that number:
1 6
2 10
1 7
2 4
And that gives you 1, 2, 4, 6, 7, 10. So you need 3, 5, 8, 9, which you need to make out the remaining two shots:
1 9
2 5
8 5
8 3
9 3
9 8
But the only combination that works is 8 5 and 9 3.
So in order to win this game you MUST get all 6 balls into these 6 holes:
1 6
2 10
1 7
2 4
8 5
9 3
If you get a ball into ANY of these 4 holes, you cannot win:
1 9
2 5
8 3
9 8
Absolutely devious.
Assuming even odds on all holes:
6/10 * 5/9 * 4/8 * 3/7 * 2/6 * 1/5
= 0.004761905
= 0.476 % chances of winning
am I doing the math right?
I love the enthusiasm! I will be documenting this as I restore it. It is currently non functional, so sadly.i cannot answer all of your questions at this juncture. I will add more soon.
Quoted from Penguindeity:I love the enthusiasm! I will be documenting this as I restore it. It is currently non functional, so sadly.i cannot answer all of your questions at this juncture. I will add more soon.
Please let me know when you start documenting it! Looking forward to learning from your journey
Moorman Game Company - Par Golf – 1936
I recently acquired this Bag a Ball and Golf game, and I am delighted with how fun it is to play. For a mechanical-only game it has a deep rule set (see instructions).
The game still has the working scorecard dispenser and some score cards. Besides a good cleaning, adjustments, and the replacement of the long-disintegrated rubber bumpers (I replaced them with wooden button caps) it is almost in as-found condition. I removed the glass for the photos.
From what I can tell this unit is serial number 20 (found on the front and rear access panels). I have yet to find any information on the web about this.
Does anyone have more info on this game? It is currently not for sale, but I am curious as to the value and I figured people would like to hear about it anyway.
Peace,
Mike
Pinball machine, arcade machine, and carnival stuff collector
IMG_0457.JPGIMG_0449.JPGIMG_0455.JPGIMG_0441.JPGIMG_0442.JPGIMG_0443.JPGIMG_0444.JPGIMG_0445.JPGIMG_0446.JPGIMG_0447.JPGIMG_0448.JPGIMG_0450.JPGIMG_0452.JPGIMG_0453.JPGIMG_0454.JPGIMG_0458.JPGPar Gold Patent - US2027244.pdfQuoted from Mikemolang:Moorman Game Company - Par Golf – 1936
I recently acquired this Bag a Ball and Golf game, and I am delighted with how fun it is to play. For a mechanical-only game it has a deep rule set (see instructions).
The game still has the working scorecard dispenser and some score cards. Besides a good cleaning, adjustments, and the replacement of the long-disintegrated rubber bumpers (I replaced them with wooden button caps) it is almost in as-found condition. I removed the glass for the photos.
From what I can tell this unit is serial number 20 (found on the front and rear access panels). I have yet to find any information on the web about this.
Does anyone have more info on this game? It is currently not for sale, but I am curious as to the value and I figured people would like to hear about it anyway.
Peace,
Mike
Pinball machine, arcade machine, and carnival stuff collector[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
This game looks so awesome. Where’d you find it?
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Albuquerque, NM
Turin
