Measure the voltage on either side of the resistors you replaced. One side should measure 0 volts, the other should be near + or - 100V

Then measure on either side of Z2 and Z4. Same deal, one side should be 0V the other + or - 100V

This should tell us where the voltage regulator stops working.

Are you sure there is zero on both sides of the resistor?

For grins, measure on both sides of Z1 and Z3 (the grey diodes just below the resistors you replaced).

Seems you probably blew Z1 and Z3 with the 39 owm resistors. So you should replace those.

However, its hard to tell if Z2 and Z4 and Q1-4 were also damaged.

If I were you, I would order all those components unless you have the Zeners on hand to try first.

The power transistors are no longer made but GPE put together this helpful guide back when he was still selling parts. https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/Downloads/W3-11_HV_Kit.pdf

Each side of all the zeners, Z1 through Z4 should have some voltage on each side. If they don’t, it’s most likely because they are blown or something up stream has failed.

It’s possible Q1 through Q4 are also blown.

Yes, your supplier sent you 39 ohm and not 39k ohm resistors (orange, white, black is 39 ohm. Orange, white, orange would be 39k)

Progress!

You should measure the HV power supply voltages to be sure they are in spec.

Is the display on the master display board working?

Try swapping the cable on one of the working displays with one on the non working.

Voltages are looking good!

The max voltage the UDN 6184 and UDN 7180 can take is 110v. When the power supply was not working, you applied 120v or more to these parts so no telling what blew before the fuse blew.

Player 3-4 are run by udn 6184 IC13 and 1/2 of IC12. The other half of IC12 runs part of player 2. So let’s assume for the time being it’s not the 6184 that blew.

7180 IC9 runs the segments for the master and player 1-2 so that was a good try.

Can you go into display test where the game cycles through all the digits on all the displays and carefully check that all digits are displaying. I would like to see if all 4 of the digits on the master display board are working. That is hard to tell in attract. Since player 3-4 aren’t working, I suspect the master display isn’t actually working fully. Instructions to start the display test are in the operators manual on IPDB (if you don’t have it).

Do you have a logic probe? Can you see if you see pulsing on IC8 Pins 2, 3, 4, 5 and 9-15?

No, backbox lamps are AC.

Connect it to the 5v test points on the CPU board. Set the switch to pulse (not memory). Touch the leg you want to test and observe the colored light and listen to the tone.

Well that stinks. Carefully check that the crossed legs of the new transistors are not touching. Check the solder joints on the diodes. Some look sketchy in the pictures.

Is the other voltage +90v? You should have one at +90 and the other at -90.

It is possible the display glass on the master display is causing troubles. I would think that if it was shorted, the fuse would blow. Are you using the proper size fuse on the high voltage?

Looks like you are good to go then.

I’d be careful with any overseas suppliers, they may be fake. They look like the right parts but who knows. Did you test the inputs and outputs of the existing bcd decoder to confirm they are bad?

Where did you get the replacement 7180? It’s also possible it’s a fake.

Depends on if that specific segment should be it or not. Put the game in display test (when it cycles through all the digits on the displays) and test again. In that case, it should cycle from ground to 5v every now and then.

You can test your 7180 following this procedure found in Clay’s repair guide (snippet copied here for convenience)

Testing the UDN7180/UDN6118 Chips and Score Glass for Shorts.
Both UDN chips are 18 pin chips. The four corner pins of the chips do *not* need to be tested (pins 1,9,10,18). But all the other pins can be tested. Repeat this test for each of the UDN6118 and UDN7180 chips:

Turn the game off.
Remove the high voltage power supply power connector 3J5.
Put the DMM on the *diode* setting.
Connect the red DMM lead to ground.
Put the black DMM lead on each UDN pin 2 to pin 8.
A reading of .5 to .7 should be seen.
Put the black DMM lead on each UDN pin 11 to 17.
a NULL (no) reading should be seen!
Note if the display glass itself is shorted (it does happen!), it MAY show up when testing the UDN pins 11 to 17.