Hi Nikrox2
my posts usually are long (lengthy ?) - so I did my post-29 short. You ask about #2, #6 etc. Here I write the post "long" - I take the same JPG , do not change the numbering but add "A B C ...": If I would have bought the pin - I'd then look up the schematics and say
There is a two-prong cord - on side "A" there is a direct connection to transformer-lug ("F"). Also coils and a motor has connection there (B C D E) --- no switch in this wiring. On the incoming cord on the other side (G) I see connection to the fuse "H" (so this side I call POWER-side) - no original Toggle-Switch (I) - a connection (J) where several wires are connected - several wires lead to "L" but ALL these wirings have one or more open switch(es) - 8 9 5 K - then to M (I call transformer-Power-Side).
When I plug-in the main-power-cord: Nothing happens as "8 9 5 K" all are open - the transformer is not hooked-on yet. I want to start a game by pressing the Replay-Button so I close "green 1" - I have (lets say) 11 Replays on the Replay-Counter - see https://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=709&picno=30093 , in the first wagon - this means the "my green 2, Open At Zero RePlay-Stepping-Unit switch" is closed (happens to be open when there are no replays on the counter). The Lock-Relay is not (yet) pulling, the switch on the relay (green 3) is closed --- I press the Replay-Button and the Coin-Relay (green 4) must fire - its armature moves, all its switches actuate - "N" closes and "5" closes - I HAVE connection on the Power-Side to "M". "O" is shown open, the motor is not (yet) running - the "P" lets current flow - I HAVE established Self-Hold-Current power-side for the Coin-Relay (green 4) through "N P J 5 L M" (((on the other side is connection "4 C F" - the Coin-Relay stays pulling for a while.
O.K. - the Coin-Relay stays pulling for a while and the transformer is hooked-on (by closed green 5) - the transformer produces magnetism, produces 6VAC and 24VAC --- on the 5VAC side "green Q" I do not see switches - some lights must light at this time. On the 24VAC side I see a connection on the Lock-Relay (I drew green lines) - the Kickoff Switch (green 6) is drawn closed, is closed - as soon as the transformer is hooked-up - through "my green wiring, closed "green 6": The Lock-Relay-Coil (green 7) must fire, actuate the armature, actuate all its switches - (opens green 3) closes "green 8 and 9": The transformer is definitely hooked up - the Coin-Relay may let go and open "green 5" - the transformer is definitely hooked up through "green 8 and 9" - 6VAC and 24VAC are produced forever - the Lock-Relay stays pulling forever (through green 6).
I plug-in the main power cord - nothing happens as I expected it, I then press the Replay-Button - nothing happens - the Coin-Relay should pull-in but does not - I found the first fault --- I say "I simulate "Coin-Relay pulls-in": I wear rubber gloves / use an wooden stick, I actuate the armature on the Coin-Relay - do I see the lights light up ? - I should see. I let go on the Coin-Relay - it should stay pulling for a while - does it ? The Lock-Relay should pull-in - does it ? If it does not pull-in: I simulate "Lock-Relay pulls-in" by actuating the armature on Lock-Relay and then let go - does the Lock-Relay stays pulling ?
Nikrox2 - the "green 2" is a switch mounted on the Replay-Unit in the Backbox --- a rod mounted on the wheel opens a switch - when there are no replays on the counter. The "green 6": see the first JPG in post-10, encircled rosa / pink: The Kickoff switch - we see it also (better) in the JPG in post-14 - milky white round thing is the holding, above is a switch that must be closed. If We do hammer upwards onto the plywood at this place: A bolt would jump upwards and open the switch for a moment - this would cut the Self-Hold-Current on the Lock-Relay (green 6 opens) - Lock-Relay let go - all switches actuate back means "green 8 and 9" open and cut powerside-connection on the transformer --- pin is "toggled-off" - the pin does originally not have a toggle-switch BUT we can toggle-off by hammering upwards onto the plywood at the place where the Kickoff-Switch is mounted.
Checking a wiring seen in the schematics: Most of the time it is enough to "locate in the pin the coil and/or switch - wire truely soldered-on (gently pull a bit) ? switch clean and proper gapped ?
Danger - 110VAC in the pin - also 24VAC / 6VAC can kill people - always have the main-power- cord unplugged when You work on the pin --- ONLY plug-in when You NEED current for testing - wear rubber gloves for insulation - avoid touching solder-lugs / bare wires.
The written above is the long version of post-29 - You made some progress - may have questions - lets resume on posts 36 / 36. Greetings Rolf
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