Mr. & Mrs. Pac-Man
Bally, 1982So I just picked up a Mr & Mrs pacman pinball. It was in rough shape and needd a good cleaning. As I was reconnecting one of the connections on the power supply board one of the pins snapped off into the molex connector. The game turns on but the speech is muffled and it's playing weird. How do I 1. Fix the connection and 2. Get the stuck broken pin out of the connecter? In the picks the top pin is the one that broke.
20200314_184724 (resized).jpg20200314_184742 (resized).jpgYour going to have to replace the header to be sure you don’t have any other weak pins.
For the connector, all I can think of is to try and remove the female pin. At that point, there might be enough for you to grab hold of it and pull it out. Otherwise, you crimp on a new pin.
Quoted from Billc479:Your going to have to replace the header to be sure you don’t have any other weak pins.
For the connector, all I can think of is to try and remove the female pin. At that point, there might be enough for you to grab hold of it and pull it out. Otherwise, you crimp on a new pin.
Agreed. You'll definitely need to replace the header on the circuit board. The connector may be salvageable, but you might as well replace it too. Will provide a more reliable connection.
Quoted from Inkochnito:On the AS-2518-22 board pin J3-1 isn't used.
So he could just move the broken pin location and install new pin and move wires to it.
Quoted from ArnieC:I think what he is saying is there is not a wire in j3-1 so he does not need to do anything
Bingo!
He should replace the capacitors on the S&T board.
Check the roms if they have tarnished legs and verify if they are still good.
The speech comes from those roms.
And yes, the pin is not used and does not need to be replaced.
However, you are now missing the pin which should center the key on pin 2.
Shifting one space up is possible and would have bad effects when you do.
Replacing the single pin in not nessesary, but very adviceable to prevent mistakes.
Quoted from Inkochnito:He should replace the capacitors on the S&T board.
Check the roms if they have tarnished legs and verify if they are still good.
The speech comes from those roms.
And yes, the pin is not used and does not need to be replaced.
However, you are now missing the pin which should center the key on pin 2.
Shifting one space up is possible and would have bad effects when you do.
Replacing the single pin in not nessesary, but very adviceable to prevent mistakes.
I'm with this guy.
Quoted from Inkochnito:He should replace the capacitors on the S&T board.
Check the roms if they have tarnished legs and verify if they are still good.
The speech comes from those roms.
And yes, the pin is not used and does not need to be replaced.
However, you are now missing the pin which should center the key on pin 2.
Shifting one space up is possible and would have bad effects when you do.
Replacing the single pin in not nessesary, but very adviceable to prevent mistakes.
YES! I think that is the problem. I ordered new capacitors so hopefully that will fix it.
Quoted from Inkochnito:He should replace the capacitors on the S&T board.
Check the roms if they have tarnished legs and verify if they are still good.
The speech comes from those roms.
And yes, the pin is not used and does not need to be replaced.
However, you are now missing the pin which should center the key on pin 2.
Shifting one space up is possible and would have bad effects when you do.
Replacing the single pin in not nessesary, but very adviceable to prevent mistakes.
How do test the roms? With a Multi meter?
So I figured out the board was being held in place by two metal screws. When the screws touched the metal on the front door it was making the sounds not work correctly. Once I mounted the board without the screws the sound was perfect and the game played correctly. I did order a capacitor kit for the sound board so I'll change them out anyway. Thanks for all the help guys!
Nice catch.
Oh, and to answer your earlier question...there's not really any way to easily check ROMS. You'd have to have a chip reader/burner, and have it read out the data contents against a checksum to verify it's all still intact, or...what most people do, simply replace them and if it starts working, issue generally resolved. It's not a common issue in my experience. I've replaced ROMS due to failure on maybe 2 games out of the 60 I've been through.
Quoted from Jasenwm:How do test the roms? With a Multi meter?
No, not with a multimeter. You will need an Eprom programmer to use to verify the ROMs are good.
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/power-supply-tooth-broken-help- and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.
Waterbury, CT
Piershil