(Topic ID: 269689)

Power supply question/problem

By UltraPeepi

3 years ago



Topic Stats

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

IMG_2547 (resized).jpg
#1 3 years ago

My +12VDC is measuring around +5VDC (don't be confused by the coincidence that it is around 5V).

Here is what I've measured:
AC input voltage (pins 10/11) is supposed to be 18VAC. I measured about 20VAC.
I also measured the BR using the diode setting on my DMM, and all good.
Voltage across C1, -12VDC, as it should be.
Voltage across C11-C14, +5VDC. It should be +12VDC.
Capacitance across C1, 1000uf, as it should be.
Capacitance acress C11-C14, 19000uf, as it should be.
AC voltage across C11-C14, 0VAC, as it should be.
Resistance across C1, 6M ohm - I suspect that's correct.
Resistance across C11-C14, 6M ohm - I suspect that's correct.

I measured the capacitance and resistance with power off.
I measured the voltage with power supplied, obviously. I removed all connectors, so there would be no load.

I am a bit confused on how this can produce the wrong voltage, given what I have measured.
This is a REALLY simple circuit for

IMG_2547 (resized).jpgIMG_2547 (resized).jpg
#2 3 years ago

what is you A/C voltage going into your bridge rectifier? and do you have -12volts @ c1?

#3 3 years ago

Bad F1 or F2 fuse? Bad joint at bridge rectifier AC input?
One side or other appears to be missing resulting in half wave rectifier.

-12V supply shows up correctly as you are pretty much just reading Vpeak value:
With no load and largish cap --> Vdc approx equal to Vpeak or -12Vdc

#4 3 years ago

Input to the BR is 20VAC (schematic indicates it should be 18VAC - but 20 is close enough).

Yes I have -12VDC at C1 (my green text on the schematic got truncated to -12VD).

Fuses are good.

Quoted from G-P-E:

One side or other appears to be missing resulting in half wave rectifier.

Yep. I think that's it. I DID test the BR with the diode setting. But it makes sense with the info I have. I will test again. I have extra BR. So I can swap it out.

Thx.

BTW, it was pointed out to me that since the circuit uses pin 12 (the transformer center tap) as ground, this is basically two half wave rectified circuits: one for -12VDC, the other side for +12VDC. I think one of the four diodes in the BR is bad.

#5 3 years ago

Did you measure the AC voltage right at the input leads of the bridge? It may be a bad diode. But with the zilch load on the -12V, it can still be a bad pair of diodes within the bridge or half the connection just isn't making it to the bridge. What you see with the meter is -12V unloaded (peak) voltage and this can decrease rapidly under load.

Actually, since it is configured a center tap transformer with no direct ground connection at the bridge rectifier --> this makes the 4-diode "full wave bridge rectifier" behave as two "full wave rectifiers". One full wave rectifier for positive and one full wave rectifier for negative (as opposed to "full wave bridge rectifiers"). A half wave rectifier is just one diode.

#6 3 years ago
Quoted from G-P-E:

Did you measure the AC voltage right at the input leads of the bridge? It may be a bad diode. But with the zilch load on the -12V, it can still be a bad pair of diodes within the bridge or half the connection just isn't making it to the bridge. What you see with the meter on the -12V is unloaded (peak) voltage and this can decrease rapidly under load.
Actually, since it is configured a center tap transformer with no direct ground connection at the bridge rectifier --> this makes the 4-diode "full wave bridge rectifier" behave as two "full wave rectifiers". One full wave rectifier for positive and one full wave rectifier for negative (as opposed to "full wave bridge rectifiers"). A half wave rectifier is just one diode.

#7 3 years ago

Frankenstein is running again.

I verified the BR did check out according to the diode setting on my DMM (all 4 diodes). But, as we suspected, one of those diodes was faulty, leaving with only around 5VDC (where I should have had 12VDC), while providing the -12VDC.

Quoted from G-P-E:

Did you measure the AC voltage right at the input leads of the bridge?

I did not. It is hard to do with the board installed into the backbox. I could have powered it unmounted; but I did not.

I did, however, double check the runs.

Thx again.

Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
$ 32.00
Electronics
Yorktown Arcade Supply
 
$ 27.95
$ 17.00
Cabinet - Decals
Nordic Pinball Supply
 
From: $ 40.00
Lighting - Interactive
Professor Pinball
 
$ 259.00
$ 285.99
Cabinet - Other
PinSound
 
$ 20.00
Playfield - Decals
Metal-Mods
 
$ 36.95
$ 1.00
Pinball Machine
Pinball Alley
 
$ 1.49
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Daddio's 3D Printed Mods
 
$ 50.00
Playfield - Protection
Duke Pinball
 
From: $ 1.25
Playfield - Other
Rocket City Pinball
 
From: $ 9.99

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/power-supply-question-problem and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.