(Topic ID: 86334)

Power Supply problem, need expert help

By Lowrent

10 years ago


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  • 14 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 years ago by Lowrent
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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    #1 10 years ago

    Hi, I have a System 11 machine that I have never been able to play. It was DOA.
    I have rebuilt the Power Supply with GPE kits (both caps and HV) and changed the headers and connectors.

    The problem : I get ~+12V at the +5 outputs.

    The signal flow :
    About 10.5VAC at the transformer connector (3P1-10 to 12) - that's ok
    Goes through F5 and F6 - ok
    Goes through the bridge rectifier
    I get +13.84VDC at TP3 and -14VDC at TP4 (directly connected to the bridge +/-) - i think that's ok
    The + signal then goes to Q5's collector

    And this is where it doesn't work anymore.

    Q5 gets +13VDC at its base, from IC1, the voltage regulator. (I get +6.61VDC on another working machine)
    And I get +12.60VDC at the emitter, instead of something around +5VDC.

    I have changed Q5 with another one from a working machine and it's the same results.

    Should I change IC1 or there is another possibility ?

    Thanks

    #2 10 years ago

    Assuming that this is a D-8345 PSU since not mentioned.

    If the input side voltages on IC1 (circled in green) are reasonably close, if the output of IC1 (circled in red) is not close then yes, IC1 would be the first thing I would try to replace.

    psu.JPGpsu.JPG

    #4 10 years ago

    Thanks, helpful schematic. I'll check that after work.

    #5 10 years ago

    Green is ok.
    Red has 7VDC over what's written on the schematic.

    circuit.pngcircuit.png

    #6 10 years ago

    I trust you don't have any game board hooked up to this supply, otherwise you would be destroying the TTL logic...

    I'd check if R11 (1K5) is open. Perhaps it has been damaged in some fashion? It is needed as part of the voltage divider circuit...

    I also recommend that you put a load on the output for testing. Something like a 5 Ohm 15w - 25W resistor (1A load) should work fine, if these pass regulators don't have a load they sometimes will misbehave.

    John :-#)#
    flippers.com

    #7 10 years ago

    I feel stupid .

    #8 10 years ago
    Quoted from Flippers_com:

    I trust you don't have any game board hooked up to this supply, otherwise you would be destroying the TTL logic...

    Let's hope the TTL will forgive me for the 5 seconds of 12V I gave them...

    #9 10 years ago

    89 cents later...
    Fuck yeah!
    I am so relieved...
    IMG_20140404_231418.jpgIMG_20140404_231418.jpg

    #10 10 years ago

    Glad you found it. Thanks for taking us along for the ride!

    #11 10 years ago

    Awesome! Did your other boards survive?

    #12 10 years ago

    I have recently seen this also .. IC1 (the 723) was the culprit and judging by the glowing red eprom windows they didn't survive. ( i haven't checked them yet)

    #13 10 years ago
    Quoted from Schwaggs:

    Awesome! Did your other boards survive?

    It seems, I get no error code. My mpu only had 12V for seconds, I figured something was fishy and turned off the power.
    Other boards are not plugged yet, one thing at a time...

    #14 10 years ago
    Quoted from Flippers_com:

    I trust you don't have any game board hooked up to this supply, otherwise you would be destroying the TTL logic...
    I'd check if R11 (1K5) is open. Perhaps it has been damaged in some fashion? It is needed as part of the voltage divider circuit...
    I also recommend that you put a load on the output for testing. Something like a 5 Ohm 15w - 25W resistor (1A load) should work fine, if these pass regulators don't have a load they sometimes will misbehave.
    John :-#)#
    flippers.com

    Thanks for chiming in John.
    The machine booted fine, but I realized the displays are crap.
    Lots of surprises, it's a machine I've never been able to play, DOA.
    I just ordered a X-Pin set from you.

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