(Topic ID: 284450)

Power driver board - connector location confirmation?

By AlexRogan84

3 years ago



Topic Stats

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

DBC46BA4-FEA8-4CED-8283-41B49680510D (resized).jpeg
IMG_2414 (resized).JPG
#1 3 years ago

I am working on a couple things on my Getaway (beacon motor sometimes doesn't turn, accelerator board doesn't always boot up with power). I was reviewing the schematics and comparing them to how my game looks and wanted to confirm whether mine is right or not.

On the upper right corner of the power driver board, we have J104 and J105. As you can see in the photo, mine was the red/white wires connected to J105 and these go up to the TRIAC board to run the beacon motor. The blue/white wires are connected on J104.

The schematics in the manual seem to indicate this should be the other way around, so that the red/white wires are in J104 and the blue/white ones are on J105. You can see this on page 3-16 of the manual where the Triac Driver Board Assembly is detailed as well as on the next page, 3-17, which has the details for the "revolving lamp circuit" at the bottom. Further along on page 3-22, it has the Power Circuit connections list and under the power driver board section, the last line is for white/blue Flipper 50VAC saying it connects to the backbox at J105-1,5.

Can someone confirm which is right? Do you have a picture of the connections on your own game you could share? Much appreciated!

IMG_2414 (resized).JPGIMG_2414 (resized).JPG
#2 3 years ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

I am working on a couple things on my Getaway (beacon motor sometimes doesn't turn, accelerator board doesn't always boot up with power). I was reviewing the schematics and comparing them to how my game looks and wanted to confirm whether mine is right or not.
On the upper right corner of the power driver board, we have J104 and J105. As you can see in the photo, mine was the red/white wires connected to J105 and these go up to the TRIAC board to run the beacon motor. The blue/white wires are connected on J104.
The schematics in the manual seem to indicate this should be the other way around, so that the red/white wires are in J104 and the blue/white ones are on J105. You can see this on page 3-16 of the manual where the Triac Driver Board Assembly is detailed as well as on the next page, 3-17, which has the details for the "revolving lamp circuit" at the bottom. Further along on page 3-22, it has the Power Circuit connections list and under the power driver board section, the last line is for white/blue Flipper 50VAC saying it connects to the backbox at J105-1,5.
Can someone confirm which is right? Do you have a picture of the connections on your own game you could share? Much appreciated!
[quoted image]

I don’t have my driver board schematic handy.

With power off, check continuity between J104 pin 1 and J105 pin 1, etc with the other pins 2 thru 5. Those connectors may be the same electrically and may not matter which one it is plugged in to.

#3 3 years ago

Per the schematic the J104 and J105 connectors are identical. Doesn’t matter which one is used so this isn’t the cause of your issue.

DBC46BA4-FEA8-4CED-8283-41B49680510D (resized).jpegDBC46BA4-FEA8-4CED-8283-41B49680510D (resized).jpeg
#4 3 years ago

Ok. I follow. Power source to J104 is the same as to J105. Pin 1 to pin 1, pin 2 to pin 2, etc.

The connectors though are not the same. Looking at the board as we see it, pin 1 is on the left to pin 5 on the right. So it seems like our blue connector uses pins 1 and 2 while our red connector uses pins 4 and 5. If the sources of power are not identical and come under different loads at different times, wouldn’t this make a difference?

#5 3 years ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

wouldn’t this make a difference?

Big difference. One is for the backbox and one is for the playfield.

You won't hurt anything by mixing them up.

You can go into Tests - Flashers - and check the back box ones. If they work, good. If not. Swap them.

Again, you won't hurt anything. Easy to check if you want. Easy to change if wrong.

LTG : )

#6 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Big difference. One is for the backbox and one is for the playfield.
You won't hurt anything by mixing them up.
You can go into Tests - Flashers - and check the back box ones. If they work, good. If not. Swap them.
Again, you won't hurt anything. Easy to check if you want. Easy to change if wrong.
LTG : )

Thanks. I made the change. Game starts up fine and plays fine too. I did the flasher test and those all come on in the backbox and on the playfield.

Something intermittent still going on with my game though and related to the supercharger. Every so often, seemingly on the first or second game after powering it up, I get like a phantom start of the supercharger where the sound effects get going briefly and it thinks you shot the ball up there, but you didn't. I read somewhere else about the wiring connections getting loose on the opto pairs and I am thinking this could be happening. I am going to test it by running a game with the glass off and then while I have the ball in hand, breaking the opto beam with a pen tip and seeing if that same phantom thing happens. Previous thread talked about how the vibrations can sometimes make those optos act strangely, especially if the soldered connections aren't perfect.

I am thinking it is the ramp entrance opto pair that's suspect as it thinks the ball goes up and starts the loop. Of course I can watch for the diverter arm and see if it swings open. It could be the 5th opto pair too on the outlet of the magnet section confusing the logic as well. Those two are easy to test as nothing has to come off other than the glass to interrupt the beam.

The beacon motor thing was always intermittent, so it'll take more games to keep monitoring it to see if it sticks again. Easy to say it's fixed because it isn't doing it again right now... until it does it one more time and then you know your solution wasn't the one you were looking for. Intermittent problems SUCK, lol.

#7 3 years ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

So it seems like our blue connector uses pins 1 and 2 while our red connector uses pins 4 and 5.

Glad it’s working for now. I was typing this-

Pins 1 and 2 in either connector supply 50 volts DC.

Pins 4 and 5 in either connector supply 20 volts DC.

You can use your meter to make sure the voltages are present. Make sure coin door is closed if it has a power interlock switch.

You can check the switches and optos in the switch edge test T1 of the diagnostics.

1 week later
#8 3 years ago

I had intermittent issues with my supercharger for years. Finally a couple months ago I replace all my connectors with Molex connectors and everything has been great no more ghosting of problems.

Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
$ 85.00
Cabinet - Other
Pinball Haus
 
From: $ 3.50
Playfield - Other
Rocket City Pinball
 
$ 35.00
Cabinet - Other
Rocket City Pinball
 
$ 109.99
Lighting - Led
Lighted Pinball Mods
 
$ 20.00
Playfield - Plastics
G-Money Mods
 
$ 15.00
Playfield - Plastics
Pinball Haus
 
$ 19.00
Boards
Tilted Pinball
 
$ 15.00
Playfield - Decals
Metal-Mods
 
$ 28.99
Lighting - Interactive
Lee's Parts
 
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
Potomac Falls, VA
$ 225.00
Lighting - Interactive
Professor Pinball
 
$ 17.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
 
4,900
Machine - For Sale
Williamsport, PA
$ 329.99
Lighting - Other
Lighted Pinball Mods
 
$ 10.00
Playfield - Plastics
Pinball Haus
 
$ 9.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
 
$ 65.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
G-Money Mods
 
$ 75.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
G-Money Mods
 
$ 9.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
 
6,500 (Firm)
Machine - For Sale
Westerville, OH
$ 69.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Pinball Pimp
 
$ 35.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
G-Money Mods
 
$ 70.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
RobTune
 
4,900 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Kansas City, MO
$ 12.50
Playfield - Plastics
Pinball Haus
 

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.