I think the first thing to do is to determine whether this is a supply or return issue. Connect a long jumper lead to the NON-banded end of one of the weak coils, say the popper coil. Lower the playfield, put the game in test mode. Not solenoid test, just any other test. The idea here is to prevent the game from energizing the popper coil. Put a ball in the popper, then momentarily touch the jumper wire to ground. I use the lockdown bar receiver, but any ground point will work. If the ball exits the popper, then the supply(claims to be 50, but always reads 70V) is good. If it's too weak and the ball stays in the popper, then you know the supply is bad. You can also do this test in the backbox by grounding the corresponding TIP 102 transistor tab. Don't ground the larger TIP36C tabs. However, I like to connect directly to the coil in case a connector is bad.
If the supply is good, then I would look at the zero crossing detector circuit on the power driver board.
I always approach repairs this way. Divide the problem into areas (Playfield or backbox? Supply or return? etc) then you can focus on the problem area instead of just jumping here and there.
I've worked on lots of these, and I haven't seen any cracked solder joints at the header pins. I don't know if it's because they're not old enough, or they just fit better in the board. Of course, the 5 volt input and GI connectors burn, but that's different from what some refer to as "cold" solder joints.