(Topic ID: 264167)

Power board resistor replacement

By McPin54

4 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 11 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by G-P-E
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

You

Linked Games

No games have been linked to this topic.

    Topic Gallery

    View topic image gallery

    20200315_213156 (resized).jpg
    Screenshot_20200315-183702_Chrome (resized).jpg
    20200315_144515 (resized).jpg
    Screenshot_20200315-164029_Gallery (resized).jpg
    #1 4 years ago

    Is there an upgrade to the .12ohm 5 w cement resistor on a William's seystem 7 power board? Or a can I replace with a higher ohm? Great Plains and Mouser seem not to carry them

    Thank you in advance

    Screenshot_20200315-164029_Gallery (resized).jpgScreenshot_20200315-164029_Gallery (resized).jpg
    #3 4 years ago

    That resistor is part of the current sensing circuit so you need to remain in the 0.12 ohm range.
    Yeah, just checked my RC5W-0.12 resistor stock - shows nothing left.
    The resistor looks good in photo, how are you sure it is bad. These don't fail often.

    But - is that 330uF electrolytic cap leaking?

    #4 4 years ago

    Thank you

    20200315_144515 (resized).jpg20200315_144515 (resized).jpg
    #5 4 years ago

    Last photo - parts look pretty decent physically aside from some small cosmetic stuff. Is there a problem with this board?
    Don't bugger with the two power transistors on the heat sinks unless you have to, those are hard to get.

    Did you check that 330uF electrolytic cap? Doesn't show up in this photo. Based on the looks of this board in this last photo, that could be just solder flux near the cap but should be checked anyways.

    #6 4 years ago
    Quoted from G-P-E:

    Last photo - parts look pretty decent physically aside from some small cosmetic stuff. Is there a problem with this board?
    Don't bugger with the two power transistors on the heat sinks unless you have to, those are hard to get.
    Did you check that 330uF electrolytic cap? Doesn't show up in this photo. Based on the looks of this board in this last photo, that could be just solder flux near the cap but should be checked anyways.

    Not getting proper voltage at my 5volt pins. I'm getting 100 and -100

    Screenshot_20200315-183702_Chrome (resized).jpgScreenshot_20200315-183702_Chrome (resized).jpg
    #7 4 years ago

    OK -- with the exception of the 0.12 ohm current sensing resistor (R13), the section you are taking pictures of is your +100 and -100 Volt section.

    If you are really getting 13.9V at the 5V connection - do NOT hook up any other boards until you get this ironed out.

    Very first thing I would look at is your voltage at TP3 coming in and make sure it is not too high.
    Still doubtful the 0.12 ohm resistor has anything to do with your problem.

    Did you replace C7 and C8? The voltage doubler section will cause the 723 voltage regulator to act up. This section is pretty frail if C7 and C8 are getting old. Check voltage at IC1, pin 12 - what voltage do you get there.

    Time to measure voltages around Q5.
    Collector - going into Q5 should be same as TP3.
    Emitter = output voltage, should be about 5V.
    Base = controller for transistor Q5, should be a hair above your output voltage of 5V.

    #8 4 years ago
    Quoted from G-P-E:

    OK -- with the exception of the 0.12 ohm current sensing resistor (R13), the section you are taking pictures of is your +100 and -100 Volt section.
    If you are really getting 13.9V at the 5V connection - do NOT hook up any other boards until you get this ironed out.
    Very first thing I would look at is your voltage at TP3 coming in and make sure it is not too high.
    Still doubtful the 0.12 ohm resistor has anything to do with your problem.
    Did you replace C7 and C8? The voltage doubler section will cause the 723 voltage regulator to act up. This section is pretty frail if C7 and C8 are getting old. Check voltage at IC1, pin 12 - what voltage do you get there.
    Time to measure voltages around Q5.
    Collector - going into Q5 should be same as TP3.
    Emitter = output voltage, should be about 5V.
    Base = controller for transistor Q5, should be a hair above your output voltage of 5V.

    Yes, other caps have been replaced.

    UA723cn has some corrosion on it. I have an order coming your way, I'll have to add this chip. Could that cause a problem with my 5v?

    Thanks again

    #9 4 years ago

    Yes, that can be the issue.
    Can also be shorted Q5.

    #10 4 years ago
    Quoted from G-P-E:

    Yes, that can be the issue.
    Can also be shorted Q5.

    Q5 the bottle cap transistor?

    Can I use LM339M???

    Thanks again

    20200315_213156 (resized).jpg20200315_213156 (resized).jpg
    #11 4 years ago

    An LM339 is a quad comparator - different animal.
    For that one - the 2N6057 or 2N6059 (both obsolete) or 2N6284 (still made).

    Check his connections first to make sure there isn't a solder bridge or transistor turned around (it is possible).

    Reply

    Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

    Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

    Donate to Pinside

    Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


    This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/power-board-resistor-replacement and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

    Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.