Plymouth, MI
Always stunning work!
(Topic ID: 196140)
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4 weeks later
Quoted from Robertstone0407:Another IJ shooter going out in my classic two tone and some shooter rods
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That revolver looks incredible!
7 months later
1 week later
1 month later
Quoted from Robertstone0407:Use aluminum oxide media in your blast cabinet and another route is use a surface prep disc called strip discs on a grinder or surface prep sander
I think drwicket was asking about components, not the finish of said components.
Everything is pretty easy to remove from the machine, but you do need to plan and take your time. Be certain that the head bolts are installed and tightened to keep it in place when removing the hinges. If you have mirror blades on a Stern, they will have to be removed to get to the hinge pivot bolt. The power supply cover has to come off to access the hinge bolts on the right side. Great time to install a PinMonk quiet fan kit.
As for the finish, it's a pain and takes time. This is where a professional with the right tools and experience earns their money. Robertstone0407 does amazing work. His prices are fair, and his results are top notch.
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:Agreed... that's what confused me on Robert's reply.
I was most interested in knowing a trick or tip on removing the glass side rails off a pin, without damaging the artwork. All other metal parts removed are EZPZ.
On modern Stern games, the stock rails don't usually even touch the artwork. The biggest threat is scraping decals if they fall off. This is where a helper or a gentle clamp can be of help, if needed. I start by loosening both cabinet bolts, but leave the nuts one turn on. I then use my fingers to push the splined bolt head out of the cab. The loosened nut gives a larger surface to press on. After it pops out, I loosen the nut the rest of the way, and pull the bolt out. I then use an electric screwdriver to remove the two remaining wood screws. Just be certain to have control of the rail when removing the last one.
Hinges are first off, last on.
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:They (the factory) use HEAVY DUTY double sided tape, to attach the glass side rails to dozens & dozens of games. This is applied directly onto the cabinet artwork. I've seen / experienced this on many 1990's pins.
To me, that's the most challenging part of considering powder coating the armor without damaging the cabinet art. In addition to possibly bending the side rail, which shows up significantly with a smooth shinny new color on it.
I've never had a game that had tape installed. I edited my post to specify modern Stern games, which use screws instead of tape. My MMR doesn't have any tape either, and they are kind of floppy. I planned on putting it back together with double sided tape. It will be the first machine that I'll actually be reusing the stock side rails. I've always used LE style lollipops or custom armor. Those don't seem to be available for the CGC games.
If I did have to remove tape as you described, I'd use a plastic paint scraper. The goal would be to tear the foam core of the tape by splitting it in two, not tearing it apart by prying. Push straight towards the ceiling with the handle as flat as possible to the cab. If the tape is really tough, you can change the clock angle of the cutting edge so that you are limiting the surface area you are applying force to at any given moment. You are still keeping the scraper flat to the cab, and not prying. The angle is rotational.
I've successfully removed and reused mirror blades this way, as well as automotive body panels that use double sided tape.
1 month later
Quoted from Toine79:Very nice.
Those white pieces in or under the siderails, can you change the color of that? What material is it?
Those are custom cut siderails. I cut white vinyl that I applied to the cabinet to go underneath.
20210630_002013 (resized).jpgQuoted from Robertstone0407:Mando Pro going out in grogu copper
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That is unique and very cool looking. Great work!
1 week later
Quoted from big-c66:Mine is the color version premium just came in last week off the last production run
It looks like the premium has the same color spiderwebs as the pro, where I pulled the color. This is what mine looked like in Disco Teal:
20200817_172614 (resized).jpg20200817_172702 (resized).jpg20200817_172713 (resized).jpgQuoted from Robertstone0407:Another Indy shooter going out in my custom two tone
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Looks amazing, Robert! Can't wait to get it installed!
2 weeks later
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:They (the factory) use HEAVY DUTY double sided tape, to attach the glass side rails to dozens & dozens of games. This is applied directly onto the cabinet artwork. I've seen / experienced this on many 1990's pins.
To me, that's the most challenging part of considering powder coating the armor without damaging the cabinet art. In addition to possibly bending the side rail, which shows up significantly with a smooth shinny new color on it.
I just finished powdercoating the IJ that I recently bought. This was my first game to tackle the problem you mention. It had been recently decaled, and the rail tape was adhered quite well. The side rails had some slight dents in them, so I ordered a set from PBL. I'm confident that I could have removed the rails without bending them, but it was nice to only be worried about protecting the cabinet decals.
I started by removing the hinges. I then took a Stanley knife with a brand new blade, and carefully cut under the edge of the side rails at an upward, 45° angle. The goal is to cut through the decal as far from the rail edge as possible. I then used a sticker peeler to slowly cut through the tape, pulling it towards my body in a controlled fashion. I ordered this set:
Scotty Peelers Label & Sticker Remover - 3 Plastic Red, White, Blue and 1 Metal Blade with Cover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0068QIQVA/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_QZF2NAVJX0MBE4H9QJJ4
For me, the plastic worked the best. If I hit a spot that was extra tough, I used the sharp metal tool to cut vertically first. It took about 5 minutes per rail.
It's hard to photograph this finish. Even from across the room, the gold sparkles flicker as you get closer. Ink Black with Extreme Adams Gold from Prismatic.
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