(Topic ID: 196140)
Marysville, OH
Quoted from embien:Wow, that black looks nice. Can old Williams and Bally legs with minor surface rust and oxidation (tiny black spots) be easily prepped for powder coating or is it not worth the effort?
I went through this decision - look on PBL and "raw" (I.e. Unpolished) hardware goes for much less than the regular stuff. $40 for legs I think? Dr Stone can verify but - for me - I thought "why try to save $40 and end up wasting everyone's time if I don't like it?"
That said, he's doing amazing work either way. I wish I had a pin that I could throw some gold on!
Quoted from embien:Wow, that black looks nice. Can old Williams and Bally legs with minor surface rust and oxidation (tiny black spots) be easily prepped for powder coating or is it not worth the effort?
Yes I have a sand blaster and I can clean them. Raw is ideal but I can make it look great
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:I went through this decision - look on PBL and "raw" (I.e. Unpolished) hardware goes for much less than the regular stuff. $40 for legs I think? Dr Stone can verify but - for me - I thought "why try to save $40 and end up wasting everyone's time if I don't like it?"
That said, he's doing amazing work either way. I wish I had a pin that I could throw some gold on!
Thanks for the heads up on the raw legs. Over the years, I have accumulated about a dozen sets of pinball legs that are in good shape except for the zinc coating and thought maybe they could be repurposed with powder coating.
Quoted from Robertstone0407:Yes I have a sand blaster and I can clean them. Raw is ideal but I can make it look great
Good to know. Thanks. Your quality work and competitive prices have got me seriously considering powder coating a few of my pins
Certain finishes with metal flakes and colors will work with less than ideal condition legs cause the paint is busy and masks it, but chrome, gold, high gloss black etc show everything. Legs aren't so bad cause they aren't really ever eye level.lock bars are a must if they have dents it's what you always see. Now some pins like the A list or stern etc should always go for highest quality but lower grade you have to ask your self how perfect is it worth to you. Know what I mean, no matter what I guarantee you'll be happy with my work
My Indy just won Best if Show at the Cleveland Pinball and Arcade Show.
Powder done by Robertstone0407
E76D520A-096F-4093-9193-71A8D2DE2327 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from Robertstone0407:What makes a coin door look good. Although you will never see it, to have a great looking coin doot each piece must be shot and look as good as possible. Each piece must be of the best finish for a perfect assembly
Did not realize how much work this is. (We never do, do we?) You have done amazing work here. Looking forward to sending you more stuff!!
Quoted from Robertstone0407:What makes a coin door look good. Although you will never see it, to have a great looking coin doot each piece must be shot and look as good as possible. Each piece must be of the best finish for a perfect assembly
Problem is after a coin door is powder coated, assembly is a total pain in the ass. Speaking from experience here - looks great once it is back together, but I don't like doing it.
Quoted from WeirPinball:Problem is after a coin door is powder coated, assembly is a total pain in the ass. Speaking from experience here - looks great once it is back together, but I don't like doing it.
is this because the pieces don't fit together as well due to the extra thickness of the powder coat?
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:is this because the pieces don't fit together as well due to the extra thickness of the powder coat?
Yes - I had to break out the files and sandpaper - took quite a bit of work. Note: I haven't done business with the OP, so this is not a bash on his work....
Quoted from WeirPinball:Yes - I had to break out the files and sandpaper - took quite a bit of work. Note: I haven't done business with the OP, so this is not a bash on his work....
Agreed it's a total pain in the ass, I found you have to control the flow on the edges and wet sand before it fully cures. Finally every door is different. I check my clearance prior to paint and adjust as needed. Powder adds .020 .mil so the door and housing is an added .040 now. In a perfect world that's your working clearance. Adjust prior to get .060 to .070. Sand on the back side of the hindges to get your clearance. Long story short yes it blows
Quoted from WeirPinball:Yes - I had to break out the files and sandpaper - took quite a bit of work. Note: I haven't done business with the OP, so this is not a bash on his work....
Once you develop a method it just becomes another thing, if you ever need advice or questions shoot me a PM
Quoted from Robertstone0407:I need a jig. Least favorite part of every job. Bolts
I found the way you pictured to be the quickest way honestly. I do use silicone caps. That speeds things up.
Quoted from WeirPinball:Yes - I had to break out the files and sandpaper - took quite a bit of work. Note: I haven't done business with the OP, so this is not a bash on his work....
Weird. I've never had a fitment issue (::knocks on wood:
and I powder nearly every metal part in a game for the last 5 games. I do plug screw holes though.
So I know alot of people get nervous but I just shipped two full set games back in 2 boxes each for around 50.00. My guess is it will range from 50.00 to 80.00
So I am really wanting to try out a pinsound board but been to lazy to buy one. Anyone got a spare they wanna trade for work
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:is this because the pieces don't fit together as well due to the extra thickness of the powder coat?
Quoted from WeirPinball:Yes - I had to break out the files and sandpaper - took quite a bit of work. Note: I haven't done business with the OP, so this is not a bash on his work....
I would imagine the only time you have issues with powder coated parts going back together are for 2 stage powders? I have never had problems with powder but chrome is complete pain.
Just from experience, If you do a little bit of prep work. Use a dremel on Bezel door entries and the flaps before the powder/plating is applied it goes right back together no problem. cover threads and plug screw holes and your all good.
Quoted from Robertstone0407:So I am really wanting to try out a pinsound board but been to lazy to buy one. Anyone got a spare they wanna trade for work
I'd consider that, can help you out with programming it too. What game? It's best on TZ and Getaway
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:I'd consider that, can help you out with programming it too. What game? It's best on TZ and Getaway
Tales of Arabian nights. My personal favorite game. Let me know I'll do something special for ya
Quoted from woody76:I would imagine the only time you have issues with powder coated parts going back together are for 2 stage powders? I have never had problems with powder but chrome is complete pain.
Just from experience, If you do a little bit of prep work. Use a dremel on Bezel door entries and the flaps before the powder/plating is applied it goes right back together no problem. cover threads and plug screw holes and your all good.
Dremel is a must, also high temp tape is an option. 2 stage and chrome is a pain. Only way to get a good finish is to lay that BBQ sauce on thick.
Quoted from woody76:I would imagine the only time you have issues with powder coated parts going back together are for 2 stage powders? I have never had problems with powder but chrome is complete pain.
Just from experience, If you do a little bit of prep work. Use a dremel on Bezel door entries and the flaps before the powder/plating is applied it goes right back together no problem. cover threads and plug screw holes and your all good.
Most of the stuff I get done is 2 or more stage.
Quoted from WeirPinball:Most of the stuff I get done is 2 or more stage.
Invest in high temp tape. You can leave it on for the whole process. Bothstages. 5 minutes of tape saves you hour of hand work
Quoted from Robertstone0407:Invest in high temp tape. You can leave it on for the whole process. Bothstages. 5 minutes of tape saves you hour of hand work
I'm not the one shooting the powder - just dropping it off and picking it up
What do you guys think of the idea of me selling legs, you tell me what you want it's 80.00 for all 4 any color. Brass and gold 95.00 Interested? They will be same quality standard as all my stuff
Quoted from Robertstone0407:What do you guys think of the idea of me selling legs, you tell me what you want it's 80.00 for all 4 any color. Brass and gold 95.00 Interested? They will be same quality standard as all my stuff
sounds good to me
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Nice pics!! Is is worth doing chrome on wireforms, or are they already effectively chrome plated?
I'll post pics but you can revive beat up wrecked wireforms to look brand new. Rechroming good looking wireforms isn't worth it when you can buy chrome polish cheap
Quoted from markp99:Those look nice. Any thoughts on durability of powder coated wireforms over time? Aren't these finishes a bit brittle? Any better/worse than a traditional chrome process?
I get this question alot. Best way to answer it is with the proper curing all powdercoat should last extremely long. This stuff is a nightmare to get off. Best example is they use powdercoat on car parts, rims, industrial racks etc, car rims and these things Will take 10x more abuse than any pin can dish out. Lastly if they ever wear I WILL REDO THEM FOR FREE! I stand by my work, always will
Quoted from Robertstone0407:I get this question alot. Best way to answer it is with the proper curing all powdercoat should last extremely long. This stuff is a nightmare to get off. Best example is they use powdercoat on car parts, rims, industrial racks etc, car rims and these things Will take 10x more abuse than any pin can dish out. Lastly if they ever wear I WILL REDO THEM FOR FREE! I stand by my work, always will
That's a pretty damn good warranty!
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Finally got some of Rob's work installed. I'm no photographer but this looks GOOD:
I can't imagine what it looked like before
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:rdoyle1978... I do like the blacked out TZ. Do you feel the Glossy is too loud?
I'm thinking of doing my TZ & ST-TNG in black. May consider a semi-gloss instead of high gloss.
Thoughts on that @rdoyle & @Robertstone
Thanks Kerry
I can do what ever you like but the high gloss in my opinion looks extremely deep and makes the game look high end. Plus it's a very raw dark as it really don't have an undertone and matches the idea of the twilight zone
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