(Topic ID: 176156)

Potential easy repair for IJ mode hole issue

By ramsfan

4 years ago


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  • 18 posts
  • 12 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 months ago by AaronZOOM
  • Topic is favorited by 4 Pinsiders

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#1 4 years ago

Hello, my IJ was down to holding only about 1 in 5 shots in the mode start hole. Very frustrating. I did a ton of research, and there are all sorts of great solutions. I wanted to try the easiest fix I could first, and go from there. Here is what I ended up doing, and it is now holding over 4 of 5, maybe 9 of 10.

First, as I learned from others, from under the play field, I lowered the actually plastic hole scoop by 2 inserting two washers between it and the play field. That didn't really seem to do anything, in and of itself.

Next I experimented with various foam placements, and that only gave slight improvement. Then, I placed two clear rubber cabinet door protector stops on the bracket, and two small felt pads deep on the left side. The theory I had was that the felt on the left might channel the ball more centrally, and then the two rubber stops might knock the ball down a bit, and deaden it just a bit.

This has been a great fix so far, and back to greatly enjoying the game!

Here is a picture.

Now, you will notice, the rubber cabinet stop on the left is sliding off the bracket. I did notice when I applied it that it was slick, like maybe there was some wax, or oil on the bracket, that was preventing the adhesive from taking. I might go back in and try and clean that part of the bracket a bit and re-apply a new cabinet stop, but the fix is working!!!

Just wanted to share this easy thing that others could try...

#2 4 years ago

That's a good idea. Pics didn't attach though. I took advice from some others on here and used foam and removed the bracket altogether. This has been the most reliable fix for mine so far.

#3 4 years ago

Yeah, I'd love to see the pics on this...

#4 4 years ago

Foam and remove bracket. Virtually 100%. I'll never go back.

#5 4 years ago

At what point are you cheating the game with the adjustments to it? Is it supposed to be a 100% made shot?

#6 4 years ago
Quoted from Agent_Hero:

At what point are you cheating the game with the adjustments to it? Is it supposed to be a 100% made shot?

Decent question. It still rattles out if you don't hit it square like any other shot. The goal is to make it stick when you really hit it. That's what I mean by 100%

#7 4 years ago

Trying again on the picture.

IMG_4864 (resized).JPG

#8 4 years ago

Awesome, thank you!

#9 4 years ago

I've accomplished the same thing for years by taking one of the stationary target foam pads and attaching it to the bottom of that C shaped piece of plastic that's over the hole. Only takes one second to apply it, and it works great.

#10 4 years ago
Quoted from Jenk540i:

I've accomplished the same thing for years by taking one of the stationary target foam pads and attaching it to the bottom of that C shaped piece of plastic that's over the hole. Only takes one second to apply it, and it works great.

I saw your idea during my research, and I would like to be in a position to try your fix, if mine fails, or becomes difficult to maintain,, etc... Once again, your idea is super easy, low cost, low risk and can be reversed - which I like!!!

Question - which foam pad do you use, here are few I found:

http://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=foam+target+pad

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=410

#11 4 years ago

I shaped the strike plate in a cup lip formation and added heavy rubber
to the back to dampen the vibration. I always thought this feature
should have bean a V.U.K. assembly.

#12 4 years ago

You're all working too hard. Remove the plate. Line the entire area with dead drop foam. Done. Just like Agent Hero said. And yes, it's supposed to be a 100% shot...the fact that it isn't is a design flaw.

#14 4 years ago

Remove the bracket. I went from maybe 1/30 successful shots to nearly 100% when I did that. (Just like boob said)

#15 4 years ago

Removing the plate and adding the foam seems like it would kill the satisfying THUNK you get on a successful shot. Although having 100% success removes the frustration of bricks. Guess it comes down to personal preference. I prefer the THUNK and the added difficulty of bricked shots. I did install a plate with a built-in rubber stopper though, before that the success rate wasn't high enough to be fun.

#16 4 years ago

You can have your thunk. I'll take the satisfaction of having hit a shot perfectly and not having it rejected for no apparent reason.

4 years later
#17 5 months ago

Can somebody tell me what “plate” or “bracket” is being referred to as being removed.

#18 5 months ago
Quoted from Ralph1459:

Can somebody tell me what “plate” or “bracket” is being referred to as being removed.

Resurrecting an ancient thread on an ancient problem.

The plate they're referring to is the angled deflector plate right behind the mode hole. It attaches directly to the playfield with three screws. You can completely remove this deflector, and then line the metal railing around the mode hole with foam to solve the bounce-out problem. This is the most effective "hack" for sticking that mode shot, at the cost of losing the sharp metal 'thunk' when you hit the plate.

There are other hacks, such as dropping the saucer, bending the plate, drilling the screw holes wider and shifting the plate back, and just adding foam to the plate - but as someone who has tried them all, nothing beats just removing the deflector completely.

There is also an upcoming replacement part being developed for the deflector, which will allow you to hit that shot and keep that satisfying sound. Check recent IJ owners club posts for updates.

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