(Topic ID: 242867)

PoTC - Who has playfield cracking & wear around sling posts?


By harryhoudini

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 2,984 posts
  • 217 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 76 days ago by MarZ_78
  • Topic is favorited by 64 Pinsiders

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Topic poll

“What kind of issues are you seeing?”

  • I have visible dimples but no chipping 45 votes
    22%
  • I can see chipping but haven't done anything yet 68 votes
    33%
  • I can see chipping and installed mylar, washer and/or larger star post 30 votes
    15%
  • My playfield looks fine (but I haven't removed the star posts) 31 votes
    15%
  • I removed the star posts and my playfield looks fine 15 votes
    7%
  • My game had clear washers installed from the factory 15 votes
    7%

(Multiple choice - 204 votes by 192 Pinsiders)

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Topic index (key posts)

3 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #306 Sling Post Remediation Efforts #1 Posted by harryhoudini (1 year ago)

Post #307 Sling Post Remediation Efforts #2 Posted by harryhoudini (1 year ago)

Post #432 Washer and Starpost Solution Posted by harryhoudini (1 year ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#107 1 year ago

Hey guys,

Joining the conversation.

I take it JJP has had no official response/action on this yet?

#109 1 year ago

I voted that my game had "My game had clear washers installed from the factory" but they weren't clear...

pasted_image (resized).png
#114 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Yours is the only one I've seen like that so far, lucky you
No, no real response from JJP other than the "we'll get back to you" responses.

What do you mean?

I thought dude at end of page 1 had CE with the same washers?

I am thankful that my game has some kind of washers installed after reading through this horror story.

Those sling posts are UNACCEPTABLE! WTF was JJP doing or thinking.

That is SO sad......

#115 1 year ago
Quoted from Psw757:

Is there anyone with a LE that got their game with metal washers?
I’ve only seen them on CE’s so far.
Wonder why the difference in size and material.

Suppose the larger size would do better at hiding potential areas of concern?

#118 1 year ago

Well mine goes back to December.

#120 1 year ago

I have never seen it, but that’s not saying much.

My only other game is AFMr (still need to add this to my collection) and has star posts.

#139 1 year ago

If JJP is even half the company I was always led to believe they were, then they will resolve this.

They have to. Right?

#143 1 year ago

I had the hammer come out just once with the metal washers.

It was the right side.

Like you said, no big deal. Just put it back.

But it “should not” happen...ever, right?

#145 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Correct. The posts should hold the rubber at the right height for the hammer to hit it without coming out. And yours had washers from the factory, so that's quite telling.

Then that’s unfortunate and I’m guessing it will continue to happen.

That’s going to become a problem...quickly.

#152 1 year ago

So we own games where we literally can’t remove something now?

Good job, JJP.

The more this discussion continues, the
more uncomfortable I’m becoming...

#153 1 year ago

Where’s ltg with all this?

#155 1 year ago
Quoted from pipes:

This goes beyond your standard tech support type of issues. How can LTG resolve this?

Yea. Fair enough.

Well... I’m sure he still feels bad about it with his involvement with JJP or at least I would imagine so.

#165 1 year ago
Quoted from f3honda4me:

Why are we trying to remove it in the first place? A perfectly good pin, let’s rip it apart so we can ruin it? :p

What? See above...

Probably avoiding the hysterical nonsense.

Wait...what?

That’s not the point...
You guys really need to stop trying to get ahead of me on everything.

It essentially becomes a non-serviceable area and that’s a problem.

#168 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

To their credit, if they glued a metal washer to the playfield you can be certain that sucker is not going to chip.

For me - it may actually be a non-issue. At least, not in this area.

But being new to the hobby, I’m willing to bet gluing metal washers isn’t exactly SOP.

I might call JJP out on this. I spent almost $13k. I think I’m entitled to an answer.

#169 1 year ago
Quoted from gliebig:

I had the hammer thing happen a few times before I put washers on.
Just played five games and all is well so far. If it continues to play well, I think I found a method of protection for me.

Fascinating...

So it can just happen...I guess.

Okay.

#189 1 year ago

JJP dropped the ball with those un-even posts.

It’s not even disputable and if JJP can’t even confess that then that’s not good.

-3
#193 1 year ago

Faulty posts!

It's NOT okay!

I guess everyone is blind...

#202 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Sell your damn machine. Please.

How about this.

If you admit I'm not wrong...I'll consider it.

=P

#283 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I am trying a few things
1 - I am trying double star posts, where the sling channel is lower than the single star post. See the comparison the pinballlife folks helpfully provided.
2 - If I still get escaped sling kickers, I will then remove the washers and do the mylar discs. For now I’d like to keep them, as I feel the padding is a positive thing.
[quoted image]

Good idea! I definitely like how the doubles allow the sling to sit lower.

Will you have this done and tested today?

I don’t think I have these options due to the metal washers pre-installed, but may not have issue either. I’ll leave at that for now.

#285 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Unless PinballLife puts them on a one hour flight to me, no. When they arrive I will report.

Haha

Right. I’m not even thinking. Back to bed!

#286 1 year ago

Has anyone considered o rings?

How often do they show up on pinball tables?

Idk if the rubber would be too hard, but they are tiny and could still create separation between the pf and posts.

#332 1 year ago

I will be watching on the sidelines.

I feel for every single one of you who has to deal with this.

It’s just not right or fair or ...

#446 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

¯\_(ツ)_/¯
All I know is, the depressions and the chipping are 100% hidden under the star posts so I am really not as twisted about this as the rest of the thread seems to be.
My only concern is solving the escaped kickers on the slings because that's annoying AF. Hoping the lower position on the double star posts will solve it, if not I will try different rings.

To your point, wouldn't this happening PRETTY MUCH instant kill any potentially amazing game that you're having?

Not fun...

#448 1 year ago

FWIW ... and of course I only have a little over 100 plays (I actually have that many... =P) .. It only happened once - on the right side. Recall that my CE came with the large metal washers.

Almost seems like dumb luck, but if/when it happens again I guess I'll reduce the slings as well and see if that fixes 100%.

#450 1 year ago

I'll probably see my way out after this post, but ...

I personally feel that it should not be understated or forgotten or lost in translation that TNA owners PRETTY MUCH had their own postgate and with "their fix/solution", after at least a year ... it has worked.

Hopefully that restores some confidence...

#465 1 year ago
Quoted from wesman:

Oh man. That's a Collector's Edition....
I wonder why they'd place that on route. I've heard Sunshine does the same thing.

It doesn’t play well.
Has the SDTM Tortuga issue at least.

It is surprising that it’s on location.

I played it.

#467 1 year ago
Quoted from Coz:

Boxcar has 3 locations- all stern LEs and JJP LEs and CEs. They have some nice pinsz. I go to the Greensboro location every few weeks.

That’s the one I haven’t been to.
I thought they just had the two.

Unfortunately, RR WOZ at Durham also had issues. Ball would keep getting stuck in the upper right playfield and pretty much kill the game and it happened multiple times.

Not all tables are bad, though..

#472 1 year ago
Quoted from Psw757:

I’m happy to report that the star posts with the Lowe’s neoprene washer works fine with very and I mean very minor leaf switch adjustment.
Doesn’t look bad either, went with 2 teal and 1 amber on each side and don’t see how these washers could dig in.[quoted image][quoted image]

Looks fantastic and love those flippers as well !

#508 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

There should be mylar there from the factory. I've considered doubling it up..

Yes.

I doubled up.

This is the only place I added extra Mylar.

Edit: A fair bit easier with the BP removed. Since it was already removed, I went ahead and took advantage.

#642 1 year ago
Quoted from JY64:

If your trying for clever you really do need to keep trying lol

It's you're. (not "your")

How's that for clever...

#677 1 year ago
Quoted from Psw757:

I must be lucky I guess.
I would like to see everyone’s game issue free.

I’m learning more and more that you have to actually put in some time and work if you truly want a flawless dialed in game.

My AFMr works great, but that doesn’t mean there wasn’t 10 things I could do to make it better.

As for Pirates, I’m itching closer to a “perfect” game. Working on the disc silencer mod (I failed the first time, but I think it was my fault), audio, pesky plunger... Played on-site last night plunged 10-15 times to test and the forks moved ever so slightly if not at all every time and the plunder had great speed/power. I have to get this figured out.

Anyways, back on topic...

#683 1 year ago

Yea. I did it literally day 1 and it seemed to fix it, but I guess it wasn’t tightened enough and the issue returned.

Hopefully I can get it right again and then I’ll use loctite for a more secure fix.

#698 1 year ago
Quoted from Maurice:

To prevent ss escapes: lower the coil power. Factory setting does give the ball a high speed velocity that I have almost never seen in a pinball. I believe that should prevent the hammer out of the rubber problem.
I don’t believe the kind of rubber makes a difference.

I think he already did this..

#700 1 year ago

ALMOST got my FIRST million!!

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#715 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

This game gets a LOT of love in our house. At our current rate I expect to hit 10k plays by the end of the year, which means it has paid for itself.

That's a REALLY interesting way to look at it.. =)

Never even considered..

#752 1 year ago
Quoted from arzoo:

Curious how you failed or what you think you did wrong? I ask because I installed the silencer mod and it made no difference, my disk is still pretty very.

Largely, those two 1/16” hex screws... I didn’t remove them. I mean, I tried, but it wasn’t happening that night.

I tried a few days later and they literally came out no problem. It’s like I wasn’t using the right size or something though I swear I was.

Anyway..

I also used SuberLube Multi-Purpose grease as opposed to the White Lithium grease as intended.

Once re-done, it’s flawless. I can’t hear it over the game at all and it does seem to grip the ball better for whatever reason. I had one game where it took the ball and basically the ball rotated around the disc. I thought it was pretty cool because I hadn’t seen that before. Usually it catches and does the snake dance.

#755 1 year ago

Haha I’m good!

I have now played hundreds of balls and only had the one sling escape. No idea why...

2 weeks later
#1110 1 year ago
Quoted from Ilushka85:

My ybr has the same issues in clear and same sharp posts.

Wow...

#1112 1 year ago
Quoted from Ilushka85:

My ybr has the same issues in clear and same sharp posts.

Sorry, but this is damn near idiotic and unfathomable at this point.
How MANY of these posts still exist at JJP?

#1114 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I'd be really interested to know how much the YBR production overlapped with the POTC. I wonder if once they noticed it on the POTC line if they checked the YBR line part supply.

You would really hope so, right?

#1124 1 year ago

Might the “best” solution then be to snatch up a pf at 50% off and send it off for a proper cure?

Money be damned, but this is starting to appear NOT to be an issue with JJP and Pirates exclusively after all.

#1129 1 year ago

Let it be clear... I’m in the “camp” that Micro is to blame. (No pun intended there..haha..wow!)

Not JJP, Stern, or Spooky.

But I’ll gladly pick up a spare pf at 50% considering the CE pfs “were sold out.” Given that, it’s actually a very lucky scenario.

#1131 1 year ago
Quoted from Psw757:

Lucky? Your kidding me.
You guys are way too easy, wow. Truly our own worst enemy to accept shit like this.
I really don’t want a pf, or a swap or having to send it out for a proper clear. I consider all of this misfortune not good luck.

Keep it context -

For someone considering another pf when they were gone, they are back now.

It’s 100% separate from this and a coincidence.

“THIS” is pretty much unacceptable.

#1134 1 year ago
Quoted from solarvalue:

Stern doesn't use Mirco, so the picture of the BM66 playfield proves that this problem is not confined to Mirco playfields. As we now have reports of artwork lifting around sling posts on BM66, Beatles, BKSOR (Stern), TNA (Spooky) and JJPOTC, YBR (JJP), it may be a general issue with digitally printed playfields which all these companies are now using.

Perhaps. Wow! Did not know this.

#1210 1 year ago

So, regardless, DEFINITELY pick up the spare playfield.

1) It's available
2) It's 50% off

Yea, the cost sucks. Life sucks sometimes. But this isn't something you should have to worry about for a very long time and who knows what will exist when that time comes.

Better to have it and not need it then need it and not have it.

#1236 1 year ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

I have had no problem with my CGC playfield except for dimpling. The clear is much thinner and more of a satin finish. Has anyone had problems with AFMr playfields?

I personally have not. That game looks and plays flawless.

#1253 1 year ago
Quoted from wesman:

I was going to say, that's what I noticed immediately in your photo. Two of my five balls had one or two nicks on them, before I trimmed that tnut. Not nearly that bad.... Those look like actual cannon balls!

Yea...isn’t that only theory? This was discussed at length in another thread.

I haven’t had any issues with this. Do need to get some replacement balls on order however.

#1255 1 year ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Problem solved very carefully ground off the protruding t nut
[quoted image]
Also flame polished the main ramp
[quoted image]

Woah... flame polished?

3 months later
#2629 10 months ago

Hey guys,

I really don't want to go through the 700+ posts I missed on this.

So what's the latest?
How are Jurassic Park pins holding up so far?

#2637 10 months ago
Quoted from luckymoey:

The iron is safe and easy. Does a pretty amazing job. Sooner the better to avoid chipping. Add Mylar rings and Titan silicone washers afterwards. How close have you looked at the other posts for pooling? If one is pooled, particularly around a replacement star post, then there is probably some level around most or all.

Iron?

#2646 10 months ago
Quoted from luckymoey:

amazon.com link »

Fascinating.

1 week later
#2697 9 months ago
Quoted from gliebig:

I was told that if something should happen in the future, they could send me a playfield. So, how long will they have playfields in inventory? Months/years?...

This is awesome to hear!

Given the current state of technology, so long as JJP is around, I imagine they can print a playfield on demand if necessary.

1 week later
#2723 9 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I think most people just bought the window, shameless self promotion:
https://pinballmods.co/pinball-mods/Stand-up-illuminated-window-jjp-potc

Aye! That's awesome!
Maybe I could add this mod the same time I go about adding the cliffy's.

Any update on Cliffy btw?

#2729 9 months ago

Good to hear!

I guess some rumors got out that turned out to NOT be true.

#2737 9 months ago

This has turned into a Cliffy’s thread...

Haha

1 month later
#2763 7 months ago

IMO, Stern is killing it lately.

JP, another BK, and now ST (2 of which are huge titles). They are practically flexing IMO.

First owned Stern might be a NIB BK:SOR this year.

#2771 7 months ago
Quoted from JodyG:

BKSOR is a fine game...if you get one for $4000.

Premium?

2 months later
#2942 5 months ago
Quoted from Psw757:

No notification at all but it’s a Beaut![quoted image]

HAPPY for you man!

You were amongst the top agitated at this one and for good reason!
Very cool to FINALLY see it come in.

And... I guess 1.0 code is coming?

1 week later
#2956 4 months ago

N00b question:

I have never used a soldering iron in my life...

Do I "have" to use solder wire or is it recommended to do so?

#2960 4 months ago

Thanks guys.

So this has 0 to do with pinball - unfortunately, but I figured you guys were the experts.

This is regarding a tailight blinker:

Essentially, I wanted to replace the bulbs with LEDs because I became tired of constantly replacing bulbs when they burn out. This is a 2007. I'm sure nowadays LEDs might damn near be standard.

I bought this regulator/resistor because LEDs have less resistance .. which makes sense. The problem is without the regular/resistor, the car will generate false positives because the system is built to detect a certain amount of resistance.

Anyways,

So it's pretty straight forward. You have two wires from the wiring harness for the tailight itself (technically 3, but only two apply) and you essentially line up these two wires and crimp the connection with the resistor. Easy. Well, the connection keeps coming lose and I get the fast blinking light essentially. I tried using electric tape and it's just not working.

So figured I would "fuse" the connection by soldering. So essentially the resistor has metal contacts so you simply splice the two wires and just make sure they have contact.

I'm not necessarily trying to bridge or extend a connection that's why I wasn't sure if the solder wire was necessary. Figured I could probably literally just heat the iron and, ya know, make the wire from the taillight and the metal contact from the resistor one piece. I didn't even think about the flux either.

I hope this was detailed enough.

#2963 4 months ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Just a lazy answer but in this example seems like to much effort for little reward personally. I think I have changed 3 signal bulbs in my life and at .90 cents and three minutes just doesn’t seem like a problem worth this much trouble. If your bulb is shorting often enough where it’s an issue you issue is not the bulb and will more then likely be the same issue with an LED. Use bulb grease (yes that’s a real thing) to keep condensation out of the plug and make sure no insulation is cracked or grounding as this is a high heat area. Good luck.

In hindsight and ironically... yes. That wasn't the goal, but I have come this far and I will see to it that it is fixed.

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