I didn’t have chipping, but I thought I should do some preventative maintenance. JJ sent me 6 washers and the plan was to still use the smaller posts with these washers and 16mm Mylar circles underneath. Problem was as soon as I removed the posts saw this:

Pic one and 2 show both sling sections. Note the bit of Playfield that chipped off in pic 1. Pic 3 is my lower left post. Pic 4 is my middle left post. It has been driven in 2mm into the play field. It is down into the wood. Pic 5 is lower right post. As others have mentioned since the posts are sitting lower than the clear coat,any bump is going to lift and crack the clear coat around it. So I believe as others have done to get a hole punch of at least 25mm to stick Mylar circles around these holes and then use a star post. And don’t over tighten.

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Here is what happened when I tried to use original posts with washers and 16mm Mylar discs. The chipping became apparent when I removed the post and the Mylar won’t sit flat because the post sits below the clearcoat.

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This is my bottom right. Basically every post has cut into the clearcoat. I have ripples in star post under BP ramp. I don’t have franks email. I will just raise a support form.

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I have reported my small chip and ripples to JJP. I am going to hold off putting star posts in and Mylar. Just going to put standard posts back and wait for JJPs reply. Problem with putting star posts on is that they will indent the playfield in a new spot. So we cannot go back to thinner posts or washers if JJP turn around and give us their solution. So I won’t change for now. If it chips, then I know I already reported my concerns to JJP. I may put on star posts and Mylar then. Also I would recommend people to turn down their sling strength. I think the overly strong slings are not helping the situation.

I think the point of this thread which Harry raises (thank you Harry) is to identify how much this is happening, report it to JJ and hopefully come up with a JJ endorsed solution. If that is not possible then come up with a solution that will resolve it in the best way possible.

Here is what we know:

1. All posts without the small washers installed at factory are going to be sharp. You need to ask JJ for the small washers. They will send.
2. Many machines have ripples around posts. These are delaminated clear coat that may or may not chip away.
3. Removing posts to put on washers may cause ripple to chip as it did to mine.
4. Even those with metal washers on their ce installed have chipping, so it is NOT just due to these sharp posts alone.
5. Star posts will cause a larger indent so once you go to these posts there is no going back
6. Excessively thick washers may impact the sling performance.
7. Mylar underneath needs a flat surface. Mine did not adhere because the posts were driven into the surface. I believe repair may not be strong enough under posts. For Mylar to work, maybe can only be used under star posts.
8. Slings are too strong and causing excessive strain. Turn them down

I personally just installed the washers and went back to playing whilst I wait for JJ to reply. If it gets worse, I will install Mylar and star posts.

Please let’s all be nice.

Check previous posts. A ce owner with these metal washers has chipping.

Does anybody have any connection to JJP? It would be good to know they acknowledge this and are working on a solution. I understand if they don’t have one yet. Can any distributor ask? Any advice Lloyd?

Frydaddy has metal washers on his ce and has chipping. Not a solution. As I said can someone who has Frank’s or Jack’s ear ask them to tell us if they are working on a fix. We don’t need to know what it is, just that they care and are working on it.

Just sent email asking JJP to say whether they are working on a solution.

I have only to Frank and Jack

Thanks for helping out. Just curious, what was Spooky’s response on these issues? Did they acknowledge? Did they resolve by sending out washers? Or did they ignore the situation?

If you wanted to go silicone, these are the same width as a star post. Don’t know if the inner diameter is too big that it would move.

ebay.com link: 0

And they are clear.

That’s what I was thinking. As long as these are not the sort of thing that was causing the reaction with the star post that zaphX was experiencing.

Ok! Thanks Harry. They still take 3-4 weeks to get here but I can wait that long. $10 Aussie delivered is pretty good. 3mm will squash down and being same diameter (18mm star post 19mm washer) they should be invisible.

Thanks zaphX. You did use silicone though didn’t you?

Ok. So similar dimensions to these which are 9mmx19mmx3mm. Apologies for now coming back to your solution from months ago. Was thrown off by the possible reactivity thing and the height change affecting sling performance thing. Are you still going for the double star post or are you all ok? To me this is a solution that will not dent the playfield so it is totally reversible if JJ ever come back with an official solution.

That’s the problem with these issues going on for so long... we start going round and round!!! I will order them anyway. zaphX if the sling height is not altered by the double, is it enough of a problem to make star posts with these washers unusable?

Cool

My hammer slipped out of the slings. I’m only using standard posts and the tiny washers supplied by JJ. I wonder if this issue of the hammer escaping the slings is more to do with the slings being titans. I have never had this happen on any of my other games which just use standard rubber.
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Mine escaped last mine escaped the slings last night. Have not changed the posts. Sling strength down to minimum. So it happens before post modification.

Soccer ball in WCS is much worse. You could contact Yelobird about the mod couples disc silencing kit

Congrats! Looks great. No more chipping for you sir! Still waiting for JJP to reply but if have not heard anything by next week will do the same.

I just hope my ripple under the star post under the ramp does not chip. It is so close to the roll over I don’t think I can protect it. Other people have shown the photo multiple times.

Maybe a cliffy could be made to sit under this star post and under the rollover? May obscure too much playfield. Is a high traffic area.

Only had the game for 2 weeks. Maybe 100 games tops.

The holes in the playfield are too big for the bolt, so the bolt can move around. Other games have a much smaller hole and the bolt is snug. This contributes to the posts having to be over tightened so they don’t move around.

I think they made the hole to fit the larger t-nut underneath.

I guess it depends if the rubber will cause abrasion. I was personally not going to bother with Mylar now. But that’s only because my first attempt did not look that great. Maybe my Mylar was not of the best quality, but it did not look as clear as the factory installed.

I at last did it. Star posts with M8 5/16” rubber washers which are 17.5mm diameter and just 1.5mm thick uncompressed. I also bought M10 3/8” but these stuck out 1.5 mm all around the star post.

Height wise this solution is slightly taller than the original post without the supplied plastic clear washer, but with the supplied plastic washer it is actually slightly shorter.

Huge benefit I see rather than just protecting the table, sling passes to the other flipper are now a breeze!

I think I will stay with this, aesthetically fine IMHO.

Pictures follow. With the line up of all the posts, two posts on left are without washers. Star post on right uses the rubber, supplied post on right has supplied plastic washer. Installed you can see that the standard post on the right is actually taller than the installed star post with rubber.
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So as an Aussie I have to ask do you guys mean rooted? (As in a proper root?)

Or is what you’re saying fitting in one of these definitions:

1. defeat and cause to retreat in disorder.
"in a matter of minutes the attackers were routed"
2. cut a groove, or any pattern not extending to the edges, in (a wooden or metal surface).
"you routed each plank all along its length"
3. DIALECT
(of an animal) turn up ground with its snout in search of food.
rummage about.
4. NORTH AMERICAN
find or retrieve.
"as I routed out the lantern, the telephone jangled"
force (someone) from a place.
"Simon routed him from the stables"

Just want to clarify if something weird is happening to all your machines.

See, this is what I’m talking about!!! You should all just stop it! I mean talk about machine abuse.

Thanks guys, Oxford certainly needs to update their dictionary.

Hey on another note, my hammer escaped it’s sling last night.

But it had happened with the normal posts as well.

Will keep an eye out.

If it is star posts, I don’t think it is the height, height difference compared to post with Jjp supplied washer was nothing (if not slightly shorter). I think it’s the width. Remember how we had to adjust the switches? They were about 1-2mm further out.

Hopefully it is a one off occurrence. Cos I don’t know how to adjust width.

So how many sling escapes are you getting??

Stuff this. There should be none. I’ve only had pins for 5 years and only have 4 others, but never had this happen.

I have replaced my left sling with a standard white rubber sling.

The rubber is much stiffer than the pliable clear titan.

Since I now have both installed. I will test and report back

Good thing about this game you can replace sling rubbers without removing the sling plastics or any other playfield parts. Just stretch them over the top.

Have not had any escapes from either my old titan right side or my replaced white rubber left side. The rubber is definitely tighter than the titan.

My slings last night had two battles between them where they picked up the ball and flung it up to the glass and in to the trough. Would be good to be able to turn them down below 16.

I’m finding the star post solution does not work.

Problem: rubber is now further away from hammer equates to hammer hitting with more speed.

Causes:
1. Hammer escapes - every 5th game at the moment. Both titan and white rubber
2. Ball is getting hit so hard it goes airborne, smacks glass and gets flung into trough.

I mentioned it to a pinball repair guy and he told me I can double rubber the sling. Tried this on the star post. Ball now cannot fit in inlanes. Also sensitivity far too low. I guess I could go for double star posts with double rubber. Or I could swap out the solenoids for the next strength down.

EDIT: just removed a whole lot of profanity. I have gone back to Titans, maybe the rubber did not absorb as much impact but passed it on.

I would like jersey jack to come back to us. I am getting too many sling escapes.

Update. It was the rubber on the slings. It is too dense compared to the titan and transfers all the force. I will just fix the hammer escapes as they happen. At least ball is not flying. I wonder if super bands are going to have same problem. An issue for Australia because I don’t know of a titan supplier here.

Thanks for that, that makes things much easier. Great product these titan rubbers. They look great and the slings work well with them. Just wish the hammer was a bit longer so it did not escape. Almost thinking of drilling the rivet out of the hammer, moving it up 3mm up the arm and redrilling a new hole to attach.

Will check out the other titans. Curious to give the flipper rubbers a go on my other machines. Stupid question is it titans on the flippers on pirates or standard rubber, it looks like pinball life rubber.

Will order double posts. Was hoping for a more elegant solution. I personally think double posts are pretty ugly in such a prominent position where only the bottom rung has a sling. I hope this resolved the sling issues, getting a bit tired of ordering and buying all these bits, thinking it will resolve but never sure. I am still getting air balls from the slings, and did get escaped sling from original posts. Maybe I need to swap to my spare titans. Really enjoy the game, but a bit disenchanted by Jersey Jack’s lack of response to my email. I also reported a broken opto to them a week ago. No response. I will contact them again.

Have ordered mine. I just think it looks a little inelegant. Wish there was another solution. In a weeks time after installing the doubles, I probably will not even notice it. It will be good not to have anymore escapes. Thanks zaphX, Cheshirefilms, Harry and others.

Is the double star post the same diameter as the single at the base?

Thanks!!!

Damn I just bought super bands. I found rubber made it too bouncy. Maybe titans are the only answer.

Single. I have double but not installed as I am now awaiting JJP as they are putting together a solution. Wasted 50 bucks buying all the posts, washers, slings and postage. Anyway.

White rubber gave me 4x as many air balls as titans. Just received white super bands. Was going to give them a go.

Maybe white rubber is more bouncy than black. It does deteriorate much faster than black. I should have got smaller super bands for the star map area, that would mean rubbers only have to be swapped over once. Damn there’s another $10 postage.

I’m curious why we get so many more air balls with this game when we use normal rubber. I need to compare the solenoids and hammer design with my other games. Are the solenoids more powerful or is it the distance and throw of the hammer arm?

I will try the white super bands. Let you know how I go.

Just remember, i had hammer escapes from the standard posts.

I don’t think there is still a solution that works 100%.

We are chasing our tails.

Good luck!!

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Here’s another option. I have this on Simpson’s. You can keep the small posts and add this rubber underneath to hide any damage to playfield.
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It’s a thick short rubber post protector. Could solve our problems.

Is there a problem with this solution? I mean it’s not the prettiest but it ticks every box. The only other solution is to have @yelobird create custom posts which could look like little rum bottles.

Seriously, these would fix it:

https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=52
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Put the standard posts in the clear or colour of your choice and it solves the problem!!!!

I just checked out my Tspp. It had the 1/2” black rubber post protectors on one of the slings as I posted. I rested a ball against it, protector does not affect ball. Still hits sling first. I checked the pirate post next to stern post. It is similar height and thickness. Then put a protector on the Pirates post. Fairly tight fit. It is not going to push down on playfield to add extra stability but it will hide any rippling or chipping and it will not turn upwards like an oversized rubber washer.

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Just trying to solve the problems that starposts create of more escaped slings and airballs. If you check out the tspp photo black stern posts and black protectors look pretty similar to a star post. Maybe the clear titan would look ok around the clear post. I don’t know! But it would give us back the original sling performance (which is why cheshirefilms changed their posts back) and hide any damage or rippling that may have occurred. The only other answer is a new type of star post/post that is thicker down the bottom but same thickness as original pirate post where it holds the sling. Oh and slightly shorter to accomodate rubber washer. Got no other answer.

Yep. They are 1/2 inch.

On my own solution, I tried superbands around my star posts. Big mistake. Made one of my posts lean. Spoke to my friendly pinball tech and he said there have been instances of stern posts being ripped out by super bands. Plus they don’t feel like rubber. He recommends PerfectPlays. Seems to not overstretch and become loose like other silicone solutions. Maybe this will stop hammer escapes.

Anyway, I have nice depressions under the rubber, not damage just compressed playfield. Just like Yelobird said there would be. For now I have installed the double star posts, same aesthetics as singles as others have said. I will look at getting some perfect plays.

I guess for those who have slight chipping but want to retain the original post size, these 1/2” in translucent or a colour to match a solid colour post could be a solution. Conical could look nice as well. And yes they just cover up, no additional support and no indentations.

I said it was only hiding what was there. It does not add anything in terms of stability over the standard posts. And yes you would have to use the JJP supplied washers. For the record I am using double star posts and going to get perfectplays. I have large circular indentations from the starposts so I don’t have a choice. No going back, star posts for me.

Two other options to solve the strong slings for double star posts. Firstly, double up the rubbers. Secondly, maybe a bigger spring on the solenoids. This was suggested by my distributor. Just a thought.

There’s a new business venture for you Harry!

Thanks Cheshire. I tightened the star posts down with washers hard to get the best stability otherwise it could result in lateral movement which may ripple clearcoat again. I also wanted a low profile to reduce sling problems. It’s not just a depression, but the sheen has gone, it is now a matte finish. I’m really happy with my doubles and titans at the moment. Less air balls and it looks good. If I get one sling escape in 200 games, I can live with that. I think the new perfect plays will fix that.

If you look at my TSPP black rubber on black posts is hardly noticeable. Looks a bit like a star post. I was just suggesting a different aesthetic to hide any rippling or chipping if people did not want to use star posts. Translucent could be used with the clear posts or blue with blue etc. I’m certainly not suggesting black with clear posts. Anyways just a alternate thought. I really don’t like seeing washers stuck out further than posts. Personally I’m just sticking with double star posts, but my rubbers are exact same diameter.

Interesting to see same issues with YBR. Good in a way that it just won’t be a forgotten issue for a discontinued game.

One solution is to move the post to the upper hole...

Since you are using a playfield protector, do you need to worry about the rubber washer? Do you have any signs of chipping or ripples? I think you will get hammer escapes from the slings. Are you also trying to raise the slings so it hits the ball at the same level it would without the protector?

He did have some pretty bad chipping which he has fixed with star posts. I guess he does not want this hole in the playfield to start to chip.

BTW, ordered your kraken, cannon and monkey. Pretty excited! Beautiful work. Can’t wait to install.

Very neat! I could not find rubber washers that small and flat. Should do the trick.

I don’t think Yelobird actually realised the chipping you had. I think he just wants people to enjoy the game. There are heaps that were asking for new playfield etc that had no real damage. And people complaining about it that did not even own one.

Unless you get lots of hammer escapes I wouldn’t worry. Test it! Also turn down the slings to lowest and if you still have problems, try replacing the titans with perfectplays. I am envious of your playfield with no dimples. Enjoy your pirates, Arrrrrrrrggghhh.

I compressed the rubber under the double star posts to almost paper thin. I am still using the titans. Have not had one hammer escape and a lot less air balls. I have not probably put in as many games as you. But it was a real problem with the singles. My playfield is compressed like anything underneath, but it’s out of sight!

Good luck!

Are your slings on 16?

Does it matter if it leaves an impression under the post? If it’s not tight it’s going to be susceptible to movement from the slings. It’s rubber, so there are no hard edges cutting into the clearcoat.

Except Radioactive Flesh Eating Zombies.

cute doggy!!!

I was just putting the supplied washer on with some Mylar under my post. In removing the posts I saw some of the ripple come away and leave a small chip. Other posts had rippling next to where they had dug into clearcoat. Would it have got any worse? Don’t know, other people had their chips get bigger. So I tightened down star posts with rubber exactly same size. Heaps of games have star posts. When I removed them at least the ripples were flattened out. This clearcoat is soft. It’s going to indent no matter what you use. If you have no problems, don’t change!!

Has anyone found after putting double star posts on that the ball now has trouble rolling into the “A” lane? It seems to get briefly caught between the top right starpost and the other post to the right (the post between the “A” and the “T”). I don’t know if I have to try and move the starpost over a fraction of a millimeter or change the other post. Damn. I was getting fewer air balls and no hammer escapes.

Funny I tried to have the posts as close to the sling hammer to stop escapes. Anyway moved it as far to the left as I could. Just a fraction of movement. Also moved the post to the right across as much as I could. Flows freely now.

I have 2 suggestions to fix strong slings:

1. Add stronger strings to sling solenoids
2. Dremmel the rubber groove a bit on the star posts to make them narrower.

Ok dremmelled the shit out of these posts. The first photo shows the original post in front of the doubles. You can see the dremmelled side. The next two show close ups of sling corners. Then if the whole area after. Lastly in comparison to original post height. Hopefully this makes a difference. Let you know.

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Had a few games. It works, no air balls. Slings are no longer supercharged. So our theory was correct. Width of a star post with rubber base down the bottom to hide ripples and stop cracking. Height and width of original post’s rubber notch to stop air balls, hammer escapes etc. Unless you deepen the double star posts grooves the hammer is travelling further without the sling slowing it down. When it at last hits the sling rubber it hits with way more force. Once the sling rubber is brought back closer to the hammer by dremmelling the grooves, it brings the hammer speed back down to normal spec.

Hopefully I never have to post on this thread again!! (That would be a community service!)

Here’s the attachment I used. Besides going deeper, make the groove wider. I took a bit more off the top than the bottom. You don’t want the sling to sit lower than the supplied post. This is assuming you are using the lower rung of a double post. You want to do a straight section along where the slings are facing the playfield and a slight bit as it curves around. All in all your doing a bit over a quarter of it. Check the photo in my other post as to how much I took off. I also took a little off the top right post on the other side that faces the top of the “A” inlane. It doesn’t matter if it does not look that pretty. The sling rubber covers it. Test it out on a old star post first and use the supplied posts as a guide. The ball still touches the rubber if you lean a ball against it. It does not touch the thicker base. Unless JJP fabricate a totally new post which is thick at the bottom but thin where the sling sits, I can think of no other solution. I can take photos of the completed slings with the plastics. I can also take photos of the posts without the slings.
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I gave you guys the fix. No one is going to fabricate a new type of star post for you. Just dremmel the double star posts and get on with it. Rather than read instructions on how to correct you’re all just complaining about JJP. they always said they were going to give us a standard star post with some washers. I sent them emails explaining the problems that would create with the slings. I told them they need a post which is wide down the bottom but the groove had to be same height and width as the original post. My fix solves sling strength and no hammer escapes. It is earlier in this thread before it all blew up again. It would be great if a new post and washer is sent to us to resolve, but I don’t think it will. Good luck everyone!

You may not have an issue. Mine had the supplied posts without washers cause it was an early build. My distributor told me I was the only person in Australia to mention it to him so nobody else had issues. I only had rippling but a chip appeared in taking the posts out to put the clear washers in that JJP have already installed on your machine. If you don’t have chips and rippling, you may never have an issue. If you do then there are a number of fixes you can do such as post protectors around the supplied post or the rubber washer double star post dremmel fix. Just inspect it when you get it, and the play it!!

I think this thread has lost its way. The OP and a number of others reported chipping around their sling posts on machines that are only a few months old.

Let’s be clear. No ball is hitting that part of the playfield directly. It happened because of a different clear coat being used to older machines and that Jjp used thin posts with sharp edges on the bottom overtightened on top of holes that were drilled too large. The metal bolt does not sit snugly in the hole it can move around. These posts bit into the clear coat and the coating has started to unadhere. This appears as ripples on the playfield. The OP and others have warned us that these ripples can turn into chips which are very prominent in their position. The OP has also reported that this has happened around other posts. Yet he and others are being call whingers and should just drink some concrete and harden the f$&@ up.

No other machine I have has playfield damage around the posts. I have not seen this in any pinball parlour. It is not normal wear. Normal wear is around scoops and under ramp exits where the ball is constantly bashing away at the table. My routed bad cats, Tspp and World Cup soccer do not have damage around sling posts.

Another machine that has had the same issues is TNA.

Given that we know this is a new phenomenon we seem to have 5 camps:

1. People who are coming at the manufacturers with pitchforks screaming for blood. They want new populated playfields. While they may be right in theory it would destroy said manufacturer and we would not have anymore great games. Some of these people have chipping or rippling. Some of them have not seen any concerns as yet. But the thought of it concerns them. Some people yelling the most don’t even own the game.
2. Those worried that people from 1 will in fact destroy the manufacturer and pinball as we know it from their unjust demands. They want people to stop saying bad things about the best pinball in the world. They either deny the problem exists or just says Meh who cares. Stop whining.
3. People who accept the problem, have reported it to the manufacturer and are awaiting a response.
4. People that are unaware of the problem or not worried by it.
5. Those who are working through different solutions to try to resolve what is happening. They have found that rubber washers under double star posts hides any rippling and chipping as well as provides a firm stable base to support the slings. They found that the sling performance is altered by the star posts but this can be resolved by altering the star posts slightly.

There is enough help in this thread to assist with making sure damage down the track does not happen to playfields around the sling area.

If JJP’s solution does not work and they just provide star posts which will result in hammer escapes and increased sling power, that’s ok. You can do something to fix it.

I do hope none of the other posts start chipping. It is a fantastic game. People that do not have one, please do not comment.

I have become way too consumed in this issue. I need to give up my pinside addiction and play some pinball. Adios!!

So what’s going on? Is this all coming back to micro?

I’ve just bought a whole bunch of neoprene rubber. The m8 rubber under my double star posts are the same diameter as the stars. Don’t stick out. They squashed down all ripples that were there and have not cut in since they are soft. I don’t think nylon will be as gentle. They also provide surface grip, meaning the star post is not going to move and no abrasion to the playfield underneath.

I have bought another 50 m5 and m6 rubber washers. The m5 are the exact same diameter as the standard clear post. The m6 gives an additional 2mm diameter to hide any extra chipping. These washers are only 5mm and 6mm internal diameter respectively. So the whole post is sitting on these guys, not just the edge. They are only 1mm thick and will compress nicely.

I am going to fix spots as I need to.

In terms of playfield replacement, maybe I pass if I am buying the same product. I might regret it later. It’s not so much paying for a new one. Let’s face it the middle of the playfield is fine. It’s just around the posts. It’s the problem of buying the same.

I know I said I was not going to post here again, but this seems to be a bigger issue which is plaguing other manufacturers. Who else can JJP use? I’m ignorant and don’t know what other playfield manufacturers there are.

Lastly, I shall say it again the double star posts with m8 rubber washers underneath that have had their grooves dremmelled deeper to match the same thickness as the original posts solves all issues around the slings. Stable, protected, normal sling power, no air balls, no hammer escapes. Pictures exist pages back. Harry maybe you can key this post?

One last thing, a hard nylon washer is not going to perform well. I would advise using rubber washers instead.

That’s not the point. There are steps we can take to reduce the problem. I don’t have this happen on any other machine. If this is the future if all pinball machines lets be ready to address it. Whinging about JJP is no longer helpful. Nor is saying shit happens. Why wouldn’t you take steps to make sure damage does not happen? Go tell all the people with TNA that they don’t have issues.

Don’t use nylon washers. Get yourselves neoprene rubber.

Ok in 5 years you may have to swap the rubber out!

wow

I have had no problem with my CGC playfield except for dimpling. The clear is much thinner and more of a satin finish. Has anyone had problems with AFMr playfields?

That’s actually Mylar. It was the chips he was concerned about. Great tips about how to fix clear that is peeling though.

Thanks for this! Great to have this as a resource.

So mostly I see that CGC clearcoat is good. Why doesn’t everyone use the same process? I saw one poster talk about banding but I can’t see it on mine.

I know I asked this before.

I’ve got the exact same chip.
Done nothing about it yet.....

I wonder if some Cliffy’s should be made for under the chest, covering both fork slots. Then again it could bind on them I guess

Good job. I thought the scoop would be carbon to stop it from lifting. Cliffy switched to carbon for World Cup because of the lifting issue. Anybody having there tortuga lift?

Maybe the extra post on the right keeps it down. Even though mine lift on World Cup I don’t think it affects the ball. You have done an amazing job btw. Well done!

I have the older metal ones on World Cup.

Sorry to see that this is happening to your beautiful pin. What does stern say?

My ripples were flattened out by the neoprene under the star post. Think of a depression on grass after a weight has been resting on it, that’s what I see when I lift up the rubber washer. There is no bunching up or rippling that can occur to the sides. I have put hundreds of games on and it looks great around the posts I have added washers too. And post no matter how large will penetrate the clear if it is tightened down too much. You need something soft underneath. Rubber protects, why do you think we have condoms?
Stop screwing your machines people. Add protection.

Thank you for sharing this info. Just goes to show most pinball manufacturers are facing this problem and as yet have no solution. They don’t want to just keep replacing everyone’s playfield when it happens. Best of luck, I hope Stern do the right thing. Weird you’ve had no issues with Munsters (touch wood).

Yep. Neoprene rubber. Fortunate for you these washers are easy to come by in the uk. Look through the thread you will see lots of solutions. Either washers slightly wider than your posts or go to double stars and dremmel them so the rubber sits closer. Turn the slings down to 16.

Why are pinball manufacturers still using micro? There are other choices.

Cranked mine down.

Ok. So question to those who already bought a spare playfield months ago.

How do you know when the clear is fully set? Does the spare feel harder or more cured? Just curious if these playfields will become harder and more durable with time.

It may be too early to know I guess and how would one check durability anyway?

Sorry probably stupid questions.

But they can cut in to the clear. Neoprene won’t. It will also reduce vibrations and abrasions caused by the slings. My neoprene washers that are the same size as the double star posts have flattened down the clear slightly but no rippling to the side. I have also bought small m5 neoprene to go under the conventional posts elsewhere.

Thank you!!!

That’s reassuring for us who want to opt for the reduced price playfields from JJP. did not want to buy a playfield that was going to have the same issues. So a few years of curing hopefully will resolve. No guarantees but sounding good.

So was this the discounted one?

Did you get any notification? I have heard nothing. Would have thought they got all of them delivered.

So if we go for the extra playfield, the consensus is that the printing is not adhered to the wood that well? That’s why the artwork chips away. Otherwise if it was just clear than clear would chip but artwork would stay. I guess the thick clear does not help the situation. But it’s like the bond is stronger between the layers of clear and the printing, rather than the printing and the wood.

Going forward, do we get the extra playfield or are we just setting ourselves up for the same problem again?

I guess if we do go for it, keep in original packaging and lay down flat? If we keep it for years like this can it go off? Some have had bad experiences. I would like to keep for a number of years as insurance if my playfield gets worse.

When I do replace, rubber washers under all posts and don’t over tighten.

Thoughts? I know I am chasing my tail, but a lot of money if it is not a guaranteed fall back or if I can damage the replacement by storing incorrectly or for too long.

Thanks.

Harry has put heaps of effort into making everyone’s games better. His mods prove that he loves this game.

This phenomenon of chipping playfields is fairly new. Would be sad to accept that it is the norm going forward.

I have rippling around post’s and slight chipping. Fixing this has caused problems with slings which I have now resolved which is different to the JJP solution. I would hate to see my playfield deteriorate over the next 5 years. I spent an awful lot of money on this machine.

Maybe you are so rich that money is no issue. Good luck to you.

There is an issue with these playfields.

Micro will not offer any input. He knows there is no solution. Good luck with your Wonka playfield.