Quoted from KornFreak28:I got my replacement playfield yesterday! It’s pretty stunning! I did notice the package had the “SE” letters on it. Are the SE and LE playfields exactly the same?[quoted image][quoted image]
I think they're the same.
Quoted from KornFreak28:I got my replacement playfield yesterday! It’s pretty stunning! I did notice the package had the “SE” letters on it. Are the SE and LE playfields exactly the same?[quoted image][quoted image]
I think they're the same.
Quoted from GnarLee:i would think using a steel washer would make the problem worse. Anytime I add a washer I always use nylon. Lot less risk inadvertently breaking something
I think PoTC gen 1 playfield breaks the rules a bit. Nylon washers didn't do jack squat under the sling posts. Neither did the JJP kit's, which allegedly used some material in between. I suspect here that dispersing the force across wider area without impacting gameplay is the biggest key. The Nylon washer of the equivalent size I just could not find available.
Quoted from bigdaddy07:I got mine yesterday as well. It's certainly beautiful. Makes me want to swap it. Maybe someday when I'm flushed with spare time lol.[quoted image]
Beat the first one up, over a decade or so!
Quoted from cheshirefilms:For those who haven't taken the I-lane post protection plunge yet, I'd like to recommend the attached washer from Home Depot. It preserves the original post placement if you want to keep it mean yet conceals existing bubbling/damage. As Ferris would say, it is so choice. I highly recommend if you have the means. Nylon nut on the bottom from the factory keeps it tight to the playfield.
[quoted image][quoted image]
My concern is that turning out the metal post will already may damage the clear coat, so that the protection causes more issues than doing nothing.
N00b question:
I have never used a soldering iron in my life...
Do I "have" to use solder wire or is it recommended to do so?
Quoted from joseph5185:N00b question:
I have never used a soldering iron in my life...
Do I "have" to use solder wire or is it recommended to do so?
Hmmm. Kind of depends on what you want to do really. If a joint simply separated most times you can just heat the existing solder and reflow them together. If you joining 2 pieces that have no solder it won’t work without it. Best to brush up on the Many YouTube videos showing the technique. Not really hard just try to remember less is more and heat the wire/part not the solder. Good luck.
Quoted from Yelobird:Hmmm. Kind of depends on what you want to do really. If a joint simply separated most times you can just heat the existing solder and reflow them together. If you joining 2 pieces that have no solder it won’t work without it. Best to brush up on the Many YouTube videos showing the technique. Not really hard just try to remember less is more and heat the wire/part not the solder. Good luck.
And also use flux...your life will be infinitely easier.
soldering isnt too hard. If able I would practice on something similar first. What are you trying to do? From there the tips I would have is get good solder like some 60/40 or 64/36 ( I think those are the sizes ) and some flux. Flux helps clean the "joint" and helps the solder to stick. So whatever you solder put a small amount of flux on it. Heat the flux for a few seconds and now we are ready to solder. Put a small amount of solder on the tip of your iron. If your joining wires tin both wires then join them by overlapping and not by butting the ends together. If your talking about a pcb I would clean old solder off with some solder wick or a solder sucker then would reapply new solder with flux. You can also just reflow solder or heat up the solder wuth iron and let it reattach to the pad on pcb. In my opinion it is better to remove old solder and reapply with new leaded solder
Thanks guys.
So this has 0 to do with pinball - unfortunately, but I figured you guys were the experts.
This is regarding a tailight blinker:
Essentially, I wanted to replace the bulbs with LEDs because I became tired of constantly replacing bulbs when they burn out. This is a 2007. I'm sure nowadays LEDs might damn near be standard.
I bought this regulator/resistor because LEDs have less resistance .. which makes sense. The problem is without the regular/resistor, the car will generate false positives because the system is built to detect a certain amount of resistance.
Anyways,
So it's pretty straight forward. You have two wires from the wiring harness for the tailight itself (technically 3, but only two apply) and you essentially line up these two wires and crimp the connection with the resistor. Easy. Well, the connection keeps coming lose and I get the fast blinking light essentially. I tried using electric tape and it's just not working.
So figured I would "fuse" the connection by soldering. So essentially the resistor has metal contacts so you simply splice the two wires and just make sure they have contact.
I'm not necessarily trying to bridge or extend a connection that's why I wasn't sure if the solder wire was necessary. Figured I could probably literally just heat the iron and, ya know, make the wire from the taillight and the metal contact from the resistor one piece. I didn't even think about the flux either.
I hope this was detailed enough.
Quoted from joseph5185:Thanks guys.
So this has 0 to do with pinball - unfortunately, but I figured you guys were the experts.
This is regarding a tailight blinker:
Essentially, I wanted to replace the bulbs with LEDs because I became tired of constantly replacing bulbs when they burn out. This is a 2007. I'm sure nowadays LEDs might damn near be standard.
I bought this regulator/resistor because LEDs have less resistance .. which makes sense. The problem is without the regular/resistor, the car will generate false positives because the system is built to detect a certain amount of resistance.
Anyways,
So it's pretty straight forward. You have two wires from the wiring harness for the tailight itself (technically 3, but only two apply) and you essentially line up these two wires and crimp the connection with the resistor. Easy. Well, the connection keeps coming lose and I get the fast blinking light essentially. I tried using electric tape and it's just not working.
So figured I would "fuse" the connection by soldering. So essentially the resistor has metal contacts so you simply splice the two wires and just make sure they have contact.
I'm not necessarily trying to bridge or extend a connection that's why I wasn't sure if the solder wire was necessary. Figured I could probably literally just heat the iron and, ya know, make the wire from the taillight and the metal contact from the resistor one piece. I didn't even think about the flux either.
I hope this was detailed enough.
Just a lazy answer but in this example seems like to much effort for little reward personally. I think I have changed 3 signal bulbs in my life and at .90 cents and three minutes just doesn’t seem like a problem worth this much trouble. If your bulb is shorting often enough where it’s an issue you issue is not the bulb and will more then likely be the same issue with an LED. Use bulb grease (yes that’s a real thing) to keep condensation out of the plug and make sure no insulation is cracked or grounding as this is a high heat area. Good luck.
Quoted from cheshirefilms:I think PoTC gen 1 playfield breaks the rules a bit. Nylon washers didn't do jack squat under the sling posts. Neither did the JJP kit's, which allegedly used some material in between. I suspect here that dispersing the force across wider area without impacting gameplay is the biggest key. The Nylon washer of the equivalent size I just could not find available.
One of the biggest issues is that some Pirates were shipped with posts that had an uneven edge / protruding edge on the bottom. This type of post would dig right into the clear / art and likely contributed to the chipping issues.
At some point (maybe Jan 2019) JJP began shipping Pirates that had plastic clear washers installed at the bottom of the sling posts. The Pirates LE that I had thankfully had these clear washers installed from the factory. I still put small squares of mylar over each sling post hole and then put the JJP washer kit over it, there was never any playfield wear. What I don't know is if JJP used the factory clear washers on all posts or just the sling posts.
Picture without the factory clear washer on sling post
272de6fede9fee8a8547778ad012df344b85326e (resized).jpg
Picture with factory clear washer on sling post. The sling post is even digging into the clear washer a bit.
Quoted from Yelobird:Just a lazy answer but in this example seems like to much effort for little reward personally. I think I have changed 3 signal bulbs in my life and at .90 cents and three minutes just doesn’t seem like a problem worth this much trouble. If your bulb is shorting often enough where it’s an issue you issue is not the bulb and will more then likely be the same issue with an LED. Use bulb grease (yes that’s a real thing) to keep condensation out of the plug and make sure no insulation is cracked or grounding as this is a high heat area. Good luck.
In hindsight and ironically... yes. That wasn't the goal, but I have come this far and I will see to it that it is fixed.
There was a CE owner that said he got one a bit ago on here. I don't believe he posted a picture though. I think it was towards late Feb.
Quoted from pingod:I just received notice today from UPS, that my Potc LE playfield is on it’s way
Same for me....POTC LE
Quoted from Zora:My concern is that turning out the metal post will already may damage the clear coat, so that the protection causes more issues than doing nothing.
I ended up swapping it out to a nylon washer as suggested. The metal one was starting to bubble just a hint even in my home use environment- I was monitoring closely.
Quoted from Green-Machine:I’m looking to change my playfield out. Have any of you changed out yet?
At this point I'm just playing it 'to wood'- I have it under my bed should something catastrophic merit a sooner change. But with these en route showing the route they already have, its probably going to sit for a while. Especially since a JJP playfield swap is something I'd have to outsource to an expert restorer, anyway.
Any CE owners get their replacement playfields yet? I'm still not aware of any which is why I keep asking...
Thanks,
Jeff
Quoted from jeffro01:Any CE owners get their replacement playfields yet? I'm still not aware of any which is why I keep asking...
Thanks,
Jeff
All I heard were crickets too. You and I will need to just do it!
I asked about it while taking to JJP about an unrelated topic, a few weeks ago. They said I'm still on the list... I said no rush. Just wanted to be sure it was still happening and sounds like it is.
Quoted from PanzerFreak:One of the biggest issues is that some Pirates were shipped with posts that had an uneven edge / protruding edge on the bottom. This type of post would dig right into the clear / art and likely contributed to the chipping issues.
At some point (maybe Jan 2019) JJP began shipping Pirates that had plastic clear washers installed at the bottom of the sling posts. The Pirates LE that I had thankfully had these clear washers installed from the factory. I still put small squares of mylar over each sling post hole and then put the JJP washer kit over it, there was never any playfield wear. What I don't know is if JJP used the factory clear washers on all posts or just the sling posts.
Picture without the factory clear washer on sling post
[quoted image]
Picture with factory clear washer on sling post. The sling post is even digging into the clear washer a bit.
[quoted image]
Interestingly I don’t believe the posts with the flanged bottom are to blame. I’m restoring a creature right now, guess what, bunch of the posts have that same flanged bottom... it the playfield not the posts
Quoted from Soulrider911:Interestingly I don’t believe the posts with the flanged bottom are to blame. I’m restoring a creature right now, guess what, bunch of the posts have that same flanged bottom... it the playfield not the posts
It wasn’t the flange on the bottom, some of us rather than having a smooth bottom flange and a razor sharp jagged edge of plastic screwed down to the PF. There are photos in the thread. Sharp enough to cut your finger.
Quoted from harryhoudini:I am guessing with the move JJP is not up and fully running, don't know. I know that I'm getting sporadic responses. They were quick to respond to sell me a WOZ 2.0 light kit but after that all replies got radio silence.
I saw a message (on FB I think) with Barry building those kits from home.
Quoted from zaphX:I saw a message (on FB I think) with Barry building those kits from home.
Yeah, he was the one who sold it to me and shipped it but when I replied to his email with some notes/issues/questions I didn't hear anything back. I just hit him up on Facebook so maybe he'll reply there.
Quoted from zaphX:I saw a message (on FB I think) with Barry building those kits from home.
I saw him mention building Pearl Ramps too a month or so ago.
Quoted from wesman:I saw him mention building Pearl Ramps too a month or so ago.
That would be awesome. I'd love to get a extra ramp
Quoted from Heater:That would be awesome. I'd love to get a extra ramp
Get an extra Maelstrom too, it has thin areas that will crack. Ask me how I know.
Quoted from jeffro01:Hate to be that guy again, but any POTC CE owners get a replacement yet?
Thanks,
Jeff
Nothing yet. I talked with JJP a couple months ago and confirmed it was still in process.
JJP apparently seems to think they can just ignore this problem and it'll go away... Have ANY CE owners gotten their replacement playfield yet?
Thanks,
Jeff
Quoted from jeffro01:JJP apparently seems to think they can just ignore this problem and it'll go away... Have ANY CE owners gotten their replacement playfield yet?
Thanks,
Jeff
Got it!
Quoted from Green-Machine:Want to sell it? Lol just kidding
How many star posts do I need to replace the slim posts on the playfield? Will star posts work for all the slim posts on the playfield? Trying to order the correct amount. Thanks in advance
Quoted from Green-Machine:How many star posts do I need to replace the slim posts on the playfield? Will star posts work for all the slim posts on the playfield? Trying to order the correct amount. Thanks in advance
6 for the slings. Pinballmods.co has colored ones that match the playfield really well. His kit includes the rubber washers as well.
Quoted from Mrsiyufy:6 for the slings. Pinballmods.co has colored ones that match the playfield really well. His kit includes the rubber washers as well.
Thanks! I’ll check them out.
Quoted from mof:Can I first ask a logistical question: Is this thread strictly for POTC? or is it now used for all JJP playfields since POTC?
-mof
In the Wonka thread we now have new owners (Aug 2020 manufacturer date) showing pics of playfield pooling. It will be interesting to see if any GnR owners experience the same, since the problem seems to not be as "fixed" as indicated.
Quoted from Adipocere:Wonka thread
Thanks. I see dozens of wonka threads, can I ask for a link.
Quoted from mof:Thanks. I see dozens of wonka threads, can I ask for a link.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wwcf-club-wonka-golden-tickets-inside/page/126
Quoted from fastchef:Just checking in to see if anyone has received a new POTC CE playfield lately?
I was told over a year ago that I was on the list and have followed up with Steve a couple of times and he says they are still waiting on them. I have a big concern about this especially since I have a GNR CE on order.
Only a year?
Quoted from JeJe:Hi, is there any chance for me to ask for a new playfield under warrenty? Bought it NIB 2019 in Germany.
thx
Magic 8 ball says Highly unlikely. Yeah another bad Playfield thread resurrected to go with the other 12 lol
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