(Topic ID: 242867)

PoTC - Who has playfield cracking & wear around sling posts?


By harryhoudini

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 2,976 posts
  • 217 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 17 days ago by Psw757
  • Topic is favorited by 63 Pinsiders

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Topic poll

“What kind of issues are you seeing?”

  • I have visible dimples but no chipping 45 votes
    22%
  • I can see chipping but haven't done anything yet 67 votes
    33%
  • I can see chipping and installed mylar, washer and/or larger star post 30 votes
    15%
  • My playfield looks fine (but I haven't removed the star posts) 31 votes
    15%
  • I removed the star posts and my playfield looks fine 15 votes
    7%
  • My game had clear washers installed from the factory 15 votes
    7%

(Multiple choice - 203 votes by 191 Pinsiders)

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Topic index (key posts)

3 key posts have been marked in this topic (Show topic index)

There are 2976 posts in this topic. You are on page 60 of 60.
#2951 66 days ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

I got my replacement playfield yesterday! It’s pretty stunning! I did notice the package had the “SE” letters on it. Are the SE and LE playfields exactly the same?[quoted image][quoted image]

I think they're the same.

#2952 66 days ago
Quoted from GnarLee:

i would think using a steel washer would make the problem worse. Anytime I add a washer I always use nylon. Lot less risk inadvertently breaking something

I think PoTC gen 1 playfield breaks the rules a bit. Nylon washers didn't do jack squat under the sling posts. Neither did the JJP kit's, which allegedly used some material in between. I suspect here that dispersing the force across wider area without impacting gameplay is the biggest key. The Nylon washer of the equivalent size I just could not find available.

#2953 66 days ago

I got mine yesterday as well. It's certainly beautiful. Makes me want to swap it. Maybe someday when I'm flushed with spare time lol.

20200319_164738 (resized).jpg
#2954 66 days ago
Quoted from bigdaddy07:

I got mine yesterday as well. It's certainly beautiful. Makes me want to swap it. Maybe someday when I'm flushed with spare time lol.[quoted image]

Beat the first one up, over a decade or so!

#2955 66 days ago
Quoted from cheshirefilms:

For those who haven't taken the I-lane post protection plunge yet, I'd like to recommend the attached washer from Home Depot. It preserves the original post placement if you want to keep it mean yet conceals existing bubbling/damage. As Ferris would say, it is so choice. I highly recommend if you have the means. Nylon nut on the bottom from the factory keeps it tight to the playfield.
[quoted image][quoted image]

My concern is that turning out the metal post will already may damage the clear coat, so that the protection causes more issues than doing nothing.

#2956 60 days ago

N00b question:

I have never used a soldering iron in my life...

Do I "have" to use solder wire or is it recommended to do so?

#2957 60 days ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

N00b question:
I have never used a soldering iron in my life...
Do I "have" to use solder wire or is it recommended to do so?

Hmmm. Kind of depends on what you want to do really. If a joint simply separated most times you can just heat the existing solder and reflow them together. If you joining 2 pieces that have no solder it won’t work without it. Best to brush up on the Many YouTube videos showing the technique. Not really hard just try to remember less is more and heat the wire/part not the solder. Good luck.

#2958 60 days ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Hmmm. Kind of depends on what you want to do really. If a joint simply separated most times you can just heat the existing solder and reflow them together. If you joining 2 pieces that have no solder it won’t work without it. Best to brush up on the Many YouTube videos showing the technique. Not really hard just try to remember less is more and heat the wire/part not the solder. Good luck.

And also use flux...your life will be infinitely easier.

#2959 60 days ago

soldering isnt too hard. If able I would practice on something similar first. What are you trying to do? From there the tips I would have is get good solder like some 60/40 or 64/36 ( I think those are the sizes ) and some flux. Flux helps clean the "joint" and helps the solder to stick. So whatever you solder put a small amount of flux on it. Heat the flux for a few seconds and now we are ready to solder. Put a small amount of solder on the tip of your iron. If your joining wires tin both wires then join them by overlapping and not by butting the ends together. If your talking about a pcb I would clean old solder off with some solder wick or a solder sucker then would reapply new solder with flux. You can also just reflow solder or heat up the solder wuth iron and let it reattach to the pad on pcb. In my opinion it is better to remove old solder and reapply with new leaded solder

#2960 60 days ago

Thanks guys.

So this has 0 to do with pinball - unfortunately, but I figured you guys were the experts.

This is regarding a tailight blinker:

Essentially, I wanted to replace the bulbs with LEDs because I became tired of constantly replacing bulbs when they burn out. This is a 2007. I'm sure nowadays LEDs might damn near be standard.

I bought this regulator/resistor because LEDs have less resistance .. which makes sense. The problem is without the regular/resistor, the car will generate false positives because the system is built to detect a certain amount of resistance.

Anyways,

So it's pretty straight forward. You have two wires from the wiring harness for the tailight itself (technically 3, but only two apply) and you essentially line up these two wires and crimp the connection with the resistor. Easy. Well, the connection keeps coming lose and I get the fast blinking light essentially. I tried using electric tape and it's just not working.

So figured I would "fuse" the connection by soldering. So essentially the resistor has metal contacts so you simply splice the two wires and just make sure they have contact.

I'm not necessarily trying to bridge or extend a connection that's why I wasn't sure if the solder wire was necessary. Figured I could probably literally just heat the iron and, ya know, make the wire from the taillight and the metal contact from the resistor one piece. I didn't even think about the flux either.

I hope this was detailed enough.

#2961 60 days ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Thanks guys.
So this has 0 to do with pinball - unfortunately, but I figured you guys were the experts.
This is regarding a tailight blinker:
Essentially, I wanted to replace the bulbs with LEDs because I became tired of constantly replacing bulbs when they burn out. This is a 2007. I'm sure nowadays LEDs might damn near be standard.
I bought this regulator/resistor because LEDs have less resistance .. which makes sense. The problem is without the regular/resistor, the car will generate false positives because the system is built to detect a certain amount of resistance.
Anyways,
So it's pretty straight forward. You have two wires from the wiring harness for the tailight itself (technically 3, but only two apply) and you essentially line up these two wires and crimp the connection with the resistor. Easy. Well, the connection keeps coming lose and I get the fast blinking light essentially. I tried using electric tape and it's just not working.
So figured I would "fuse" the connection by soldering. So essentially the resistor has metal contacts so you simply splice the two wires and just make sure they have contact.
I'm not necessarily trying to bridge or extend a connection that's why I wasn't sure if the solder wire was necessary. Figured I could probably literally just heat the iron and, ya know, make the wire from the taillight and the metal contact from the resistor one piece. I didn't even think about the flux either.
I hope this was detailed enough.

Just a lazy answer but in this example seems like to much effort for little reward personally. I think I have changed 3 signal bulbs in my life and at .90 cents and three minutes just doesn’t seem like a problem worth this much trouble. If your bulb is shorting often enough where it’s an issue you issue is not the bulb and will more then likely be the same issue with an LED. Use bulb grease (yes that’s a real thing) to keep condensation out of the plug and make sure no insulation is cracked or grounding as this is a high heat area. Good luck.

#2962 60 days ago
Quoted from cheshirefilms:

I think PoTC gen 1 playfield breaks the rules a bit. Nylon washers didn't do jack squat under the sling posts. Neither did the JJP kit's, which allegedly used some material in between. I suspect here that dispersing the force across wider area without impacting gameplay is the biggest key. The Nylon washer of the equivalent size I just could not find available.

One of the biggest issues is that some Pirates were shipped with posts that had an uneven edge / protruding edge on the bottom. This type of post would dig right into the clear / art and likely contributed to the chipping issues.

At some point (maybe Jan 2019) JJP began shipping Pirates that had plastic clear washers installed at the bottom of the sling posts. The Pirates LE that I had thankfully had these clear washers installed from the factory. I still put small squares of mylar over each sling post hole and then put the JJP washer kit over it, there was never any playfield wear. What I don't know is if JJP used the factory clear washers on all posts or just the sling posts.

Picture without the factory clear washer on sling post

272de6fede9fee8a8547778ad012df344b85326e (resized).jpg

Picture with factory clear washer on sling post. The sling post is even digging into the clear washer a bit.

8a08956226ce33ab4cbce84ac85256fac4d2c495 (resized).jpg

#2963 59 days ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Just a lazy answer but in this example seems like to much effort for little reward personally. I think I have changed 3 signal bulbs in my life and at .90 cents and three minutes just doesn’t seem like a problem worth this much trouble. If your bulb is shorting often enough where it’s an issue you issue is not the bulb and will more then likely be the same issue with an LED. Use bulb grease (yes that’s a real thing) to keep condensation out of the plug and make sure no insulation is cracked or grounding as this is a high heat area. Good luck.

In hindsight and ironically... yes. That wasn't the goal, but I have come this far and I will see to it that it is fixed.

#2964 54 days ago

Any CE owners get their replacement playfield yet?

Thanks,
Jeff

#2965 54 days ago

There was a CE owner that said he got one a bit ago on here. I don't believe he posted a picture though. I think it was towards late Feb.

#2966 54 days ago

I just received notice today from UPS, that my Potc LE playfield is on it’s way

#2967 54 days ago
Quoted from pingod:

I just received notice today from UPS, that my Potc LE playfield is on it’s way

Same for me....POTC LE

#2968 54 days ago

Got my LE playfield 2 months ago...wonder why the time delay

#2969 53 days ago

I’m looking to change my playfield out. Have any of you changed out yet?

#2970 47 days ago
Quoted from Zora:

My concern is that turning out the metal post will already may damage the clear coat, so that the protection causes more issues than doing nothing.

I ended up swapping it out to a nylon washer as suggested. The metal one was starting to bubble just a hint even in my home use environment- I was monitoring closely.

#2971 47 days ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

I’m looking to change my playfield out. Have any of you changed out yet?

At this point I'm just playing it 'to wood'- I have it under my bed should something catastrophic merit a sooner change. But with these en route showing the route they already have, its probably going to sit for a while. Especially since a JJP playfield swap is something I'd have to outsource to an expert restorer, anyway.

2 weeks later
#2972 31 days ago

Any CE owners get their replacement playfields yet? I'm still not aware of any which is why I keep asking...

Thanks,
Jeff

#2973 31 days ago
Quoted from jeffro01:

Any CE owners get their replacement playfields yet? I'm still not aware of any which is why I keep asking...
Thanks,
Jeff

All I heard were crickets too. You and I will need to just do it!

#2974 29 days ago

I asked about it while taking to JJP about an unrelated topic, a few weeks ago. They said I'm still on the list... I said no rush. Just wanted to be sure it was still happening and sounds like it is.

#2975 25 days ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

One of the biggest issues is that some Pirates were shipped with posts that had an uneven edge / protruding edge on the bottom. This type of post would dig right into the clear / art and likely contributed to the chipping issues.
At some point (maybe Jan 2019) JJP began shipping Pirates that had plastic clear washers installed at the bottom of the sling posts. The Pirates LE that I had thankfully had these clear washers installed from the factory. I still put small squares of mylar over each sling post hole and then put the JJP washer kit over it, there was never any playfield wear. What I don't know is if JJP used the factory clear washers on all posts or just the sling posts.
Picture without the factory clear washer on sling post
[quoted image]
Picture with factory clear washer on sling post. The sling post is even digging into the clear washer a bit.
[quoted image]

Interestingly I don’t believe the posts with the flanged bottom are to blame. I’m restoring a creature right now, guess what, bunch of the posts have that same flanged bottom... it the playfield not the posts

1 week later
#2976 17 days ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Interestingly I don’t believe the posts with the flanged bottom are to blame. I’m restoring a creature right now, guess what, bunch of the posts have that same flanged bottom... it the playfield not the posts

It wasn’t the flange on the bottom, some of us rather than having a smooth bottom flange and a razor sharp jagged edge of plastic screwed down to the PF. There are photos in the thread. Sharp enough to cut your finger.

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