I've read from a few experts that it's a good idea to not turn that old pin on the moment you unload it from your vehicle. Take a chill pill and run a few checks first to avoid burning up components or even your property... If you are an experienced pin tech, please review the list and let us know what else we should consider before turning her on... thanks!

(This is a minimal list in no particular order, there is more you can check first if you desire)
BEFORE you turn it on review the following:

1. Batteries: replace batteries and ensure battery holder has no cracks or broken contact points. Examine below the batteries and ensure there's no damage. (Eventually, get the batteries off the board completely)
2. Boards: ensure all the boards in the backbox are mounted and grounded with screws. Several reasons for this. (Frequently there are some missing, which can allow for more board flex when plugging connectors back in. More screws = better grounding.) *note: some people choose to not screw in the driver board on an early 80s williams driver board since it adds flex to the 40-pin connector arrangement. Just be extra careful removing plugs, hold the board steady with the other hand if it's not screwed in.
3. Coils: Check the resistance of each coil against the spec. Check each arm and make sure there's no resistance to movement. Check each lug and look for broken/loose wires.
4. Docs: Get your game's documentation at www.ipdb.org
5. Flipper Coils: check them against the specification for right type. Inspect flipper switches.
6. Fuses: Check fuses against the specification
7. ICs: Make sure no socketed ICs (integrated circuits -- "chips") are installed upside down
8. Loose Items: After setting up the pin, before you plug it in, check the cabinet and back box for fallen loose items, using a bright light -- make sure no small parts have been wedged in somewhere
9. Power Cord: Check the power cord for damage and fraying. Be sure there is an undamaged grounded three prong plug installed.
10. Serial Number: Record the serial number, take pictures for your records
11. Voltages: Check the voltages on the rectifier board (with connectors unplugged) -- see various troubleshooting guides to learn what voltages to expect
12. Wires: Check under the playfield and make sure no wires are getting eaten away by moving parts (sling shot wires, and wires along the edge of the playfield that can rub against the cabinet sides) Check the coin door for clipped/cut GI wires that may be dangling free.
13. Nut check: A loose or missing nut can mean undue stress going to a part that is loose on the playfield. Make sure all posts and pop assemblies are well secured. Review all nuts quickly. You will likely find a loose or missing one on your first pass.
14. Add Fuses: Perform this safety mod on all your Williams pins made from 1977-1987. -- add two fuses to the bridge rectifiers to prevent fire. http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_9_-_11 (see section 4.2 Power Problems) Also see vid1900's tutorial on how to set it up: http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-bulletproofing-williams-system-6/page/2

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Can you drop a few hints of things you like to do after purchasing a used pinball machine regarding reviewing anything related to power?

I know to check fuses right away against the specification. Looking for more safety/power tips like this. Not looking for cosmetic/playability tips.

I'll udpate a Summary (above) as comments are added.

As you write up your suggestion, please include a link to any item to purchase, add any pic that can help show what you mean (if you have the time), and please include a few steps for those new to electrical issues or pinball. (For example, try to put yourself in the shoes of someone who doesn't know how to use a DMM, and include a few steps to help that person out.)

thanks!
-mof

PS: When you are done, you may want to move onto the next checklist l-)
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/shop-job-master-checklist

That sounds like a good one -- can you say more about that, and include a pic ?

thanks!
MOF

Can you offer a few step by step hints on how to do this so that a first time pinball buyer can know what to do?

thanks!
mof

Good tips, please keep 'em coming !
MOF

Going to add a VERY obvious tip -- (but not for first-timers!)
Hit up www.ipdb.org and grab a copy of your user manual under (Documentation)
=)
MOF

You just reminded me I have a two-prong on the Taxi. What are my steps to remedy?
Found this -- is this a best practice for doing it?

thanks!
MOF

VERY good info -- thanks!
MOF

Looking for more good tips on power/safety things to check right away on a pin -- right after purchasing.

Just realized we forgot an easy one: A battery replacement is really important. Make sure the contacts are good after installing new batteries. Check for corrosion directly below the battery holder.

thanks!
MOF

With older System (3-9) machines, and System 11's and 11-A's before Fire! (mid-1987) -- add two fuses to the bridge rectifiers to prevent fire. http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_9_-_11 (see section 4.2 Power Problems)

-mof

Awesome tip.

-mof

I think that all these "playability" ideas are much more intuitive like -- "I want my ramps to play tight" so examine all the ramp posts and make sure they are screwed down tight. My goal for this thread was fire safety and not burning up good machine components over something that could have been prevented with 10 minutes of checking something... I will say this...

Run your fingers slowly over each leg bolt hole where you will screw a bolt back into... Last leg on my last pin I brought home had a sharp piece of metal sticking up, and as I turned the final bolt the final thread -- it cut deep into my thumb like a can opener. Took a week to heal. No biggie, but totally avoidable, so you bet your life, I'll run my finger over all leg bolt holes slowly once to make sure they are all smooth. And I have the metal file ready... hehe.

-mof

Just found out my flipper solenoids were not correct in the Taxi I got last Winter. Hilarious, no wonder the flippers were a tad weak. One solenoid was a FL-11722/50V for uppers instead of FL-11630/50V!!! Doh! Doing my WPC flipper upgrades on Taxi today, 4 machines to go... Wish me luck!

Learning more each day!
-mof

Brought a 1981 Gottlieb Black Hole home a few weeks ago... When it came time to review the fuses... It was nothing but, "Really???" for 20 minutes. I think about 10 of roughly 20 fuses were what I expected to find...

"In short", (get it?) it seems that slow blow fuses get replaced in a pinch with available car fuses regardless of fast-blow or slow-blow and amps.

Have a checklist and follow it... Don't "blow it" (are you still with me?)
-mof

I just want to thank the contributors of this list once again. These tips have been helpful time and time again over the last year...

When I made the list, I thought it was a bit "too much"

Now I think it's a bit "minimal"

That's time and experience for ya...

Added! (trying to walk the line between a quick 1-2-3 hour check before turning on AND a shop job) =)
-mof

Good point, I'll add this for sure.
-mof

Good point, I've read on Pinside two advantages to doing this:

1. Appearance. Matching the original is always preferred over a big yellow block of plastic.
2. Space on the power strip. You may run into a situation where big yellow blocks of plastic are fighting for space. Better to use the slimmer standard black plug.

-mof

Adding: ensure boards in backbox have screws in all the mounting holes.

-mof

Fantastic...
-mof