(Topic ID: 138626)

Post Project Pins for sale here - CL, eBay, Pinside and others

By Pecos

4 years ago

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  • 486 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 hours ago by bluespin
  • Topic is favorited by 431 Pinsiders


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#874 3 years ago
Quoted from FrankJ:

In the late '80's I was paying $25-50 for EM's and $100 for most SS machines - no early GTL's. though. You couldn't give those away. That's how much the market has changed.

In the early 1980s, homeowners would occasionally pay you to remove an old pinball machine from a basement. By the late 1980s and early/middle 1990s, Gottlieb woodrails were immensely popular, particularly with European collectors. Even the "B" and "C" titles of Gottlieb woodrails were in demand. In the last 20 years, the "A" list Gottlieb woodrails have continued to remain in high demand and have held or increased in value for some titles. The better Williams woodrails have enjoyed a steady increase in value in the last 10 years. The 1970s EMs have also steadily increased in price, particularly in the last 6 to 7 years, with a few of the best Gottlieb wedgehead titles tripling in price. Early solid state games have generally fetched considerably higher prices in the last few years. Currently, prewar games are hot. It will be interesting to see how the release of new, modern (expensive) games from new manufacturers and Stern will affect the marketplace. One thing is certain. If the market flatlines, you'll never lose more than $800 in an $800 game whereas an $8K game can lose thousands in value by the time of resale. Lesson? We can relax when we buy project games, knowing that the fun factor is high and the financial risk is low. In contrast, NIB game purchases require considerably more circumspection. Viva la projects!

#895 3 years ago
Quoted from Pecos:

Welcome brandsilence!

Do you mean like these:
The First Battle - Removing Vinyl Pop Bumper Protectors
I had to use a razor blade to get them off. And you have to be very careful using it - both for your safety and the safety of the playfield. Get the angle wrong and the blade will dig into the playfield ink removing it. It wasn't such a problem for me because I ended up having to touch-up the wear around the pop bumpers anyway. But yeah, they were hideous to look at.
Congrats on picking up the Spanish Eyes!

To remove those old contact paper protectors, I recommend the following:

1) apply freeze spray and carefully peel away, applying more freeze spray as you proceed. Use a credit card to scrape, to avoid damaging the playfield;
2) if freeze spray fails, try the 3M product (adhesive remover in a can) depicted below. I successfully utilized the 3M product, and a hair blow dryer, without any damage to the playfield, on my Daisy May, as shown below.

These spray products will transform the contact paper into a more flexible consistency which does not require a razor blade to remove.

1 month later
#1263 3 years ago
Quoted from Captive_Ball:

Pinball Coffee table anyone? Was a Joker Poker at one point.
OP: This is a Coffee Table made out of a salvaged Joker Poker Pinball Machine. This is NOT a working pinball machine. Lights work and Coin Door had a new lock so you can put your remotes or valuables locked away inside. Top Glass has small 2x3'' corner broken off. Very Heavy. Would be great for game room , kids room, arcade, etc
dallas.craigslist.org link

Evidently, this Joker Poker coffee table, formerly a pinball machine, was also turned into a Bally, formerly a Gottlieb. The description lists the game as a Bally!

1 week later
#1424 3 years ago
Quoted from RyanClaytor:

I think what you mean is...

C'mon. Who's in for a shirt?

Quoted from RyanClaytor:

I think what you mean is...

C'mon. Who's in for a shirt?

I think that the consumer market for the "Colson-quote shirt" is male Pinsiders. However, to make sense, the shirt itself needs to be tailored to fit women.

#1473 3 years ago
Quoted from Pecos:

Here is your chance to get an evil pinball.
Manufacturer: Gottlieb
Game/Type: Target Alpha / EM 4 Player
Month/Year: November 1976
Production: 7,285
Cost: $600
Manufacturer: Williams
Game/Type: Satin Doll / EM 2 Player
Month/Year: March 1975
Production: 2,400
Cost: $400 Each
Condition: OP: "2 pin ball games Satan Doll & Target Alpha. Been in stored for 15 + years. in various needs of repair. call for details."
Cost: $900 for both
Location: Cucamonga, CA
Link/Contact: inlandempire.craigslist.org link

Hmmm. "Satan" Doll sounds like a dark game. If that machine begins talking like Talky Tina, even though it lacks a speech feature, Colson sure as hell will be glad that he wasn't closer.

5 months later
#3044 3 years ago
Quoted from songofsixpence:

I acquired a Southern Belle a couple days ago. I'd let it go for the right price

For reference, I sold a Southern Belle in working condition, with good cosmetics, including fairly good plastics, excellent cabinet and playfield, new tray liner, and a presentable backglass, a few years ago for $450 to make room for another game. That was on the very low end of the price range for this title. The high end was a couple hundred more, perhaps as high as $750. Gauge your game's value accordingly. Several years ago, a spectacular example of a Southern Belle fetched over $2K (to a NJ buyer), as I recall; however, that sale was an outlier. Good luck! However, I suggest that you list a realistic price in your ad. Your $8M price does not engender good will nor encourage offers, I suspect.

1 year later
#6777 2 years ago

Here's a shopped 1964 Williams Soccer for a $499 buy-it-now in Ohio. It appears to be in good overall condition.

ebay.com link » Soccer 1964 Williams Pinball Machine

1 week later
#7021 2 years ago
Quoted from Pecos:

For those who are interested, my latest restoration, a 1971 Williams Klondike:

After two and a half years of restoring Project Pins, I finally feel qualified to mention my techniques for restoration. I have come up with a list of what I do, from start to finish, during a typical Project Pin restoration. This list, a Work In Process, is on my Website.
And, I am considering making a video of the entire process. I hope that my documentation will encourage others to take on their first restoration. These marvelous works of art and engineering genius are too important in the history of Americana to be lost to neglect and the landfill.

Nice work.

1 month later
#7295 1 year ago
Quoted from Pecos:

Lookee what showed up today at Pecos' Palatial Pinball Parlour!
The USPS did a good job shipping such a fragile piece during Christmas rush. Mr. Mailman walked the box up to my door. He said, somewhat interested, "Oh..." when I told him that I restore pinball machines. I then invited him to have a peek inside and got excited when he saw Black Knight! Can't blame him at all. I, too, get excited seeing my beloved Black Knight and Firepower. It was a good sign to see the package intact without any damage.
Pinball Goodness lies within!

Congrats ZNET on the packing job! A box within a box!

Beauty! Gorgeous!

This backglass will remain safely stowed away in the shipping box until I get Queen of Hearts up on its feet and backbox attached. I may be asking for some help putting this backglass in safely. The front wooden frame has been removed from the backbox. Does the backglass go in from the backside of the backbox?
I have handled literally hundreds of backglasses and playfield glass. Never have I had so much reticence about handling a backglass. The Queen is 65 years old!!! She is irreplaceable! I will be handling with the utmost care and reverence for such wonderful piece of Americana.
I am working on three Project Pins right now, Laser Cue, Super-Flite and Liberty Bell, all Williams games. I always try to do that before ordering parts so I can order in bunches sometimes at a discount. Laser Cue is almost finished. When done, I will move Queen of Hearts to the top of the queue. I might even document my work here on Pinside. It should be interesting restoring the Ole Queen. Gottliebs are still a bit of a mystery to me and I have no idea what surprises lay ahead of me when I dig into 1952 era pinball tech! I have eight Gottlieb pins at the PPPP and this would be the first Gottlieb I get working, with a little bit of luck and a lot of patience.
Santa says "Ho Ho Ho!" I say "Hee Hee Hee!" Christmas came early this year and I felt like a kid on Christmas morning opening my gift. It means even more to me knowing the thoughts behind the present.
Words cannot convey how grateful I am for 'The Perfect Christmas Gift' and your kindest of thoughts.
Thanks again and Merry Christmas to all!

I can uncross my fingers, now that the royal glass has arrived safely. It gives us all great satisfaction to know that your Queen of Hearts will rise from the ashes and that you will enjoy making her live again.

As for installing Gottlieb woodrail backglasses, there are two methods. First, if the two wooden support braces at the top of your game's head are fragile, I suggest simply removing them by carefully prying them off. Doing so allows enough room to slide in the backglass on an angle, while the backbox mechanism is attached. If desired, you could glue those support braces back on after installation. I wouldn't use excessive glue, though, in case you ever needed to remove the backglass and wanted easy access in the future.

The second method, which is more time-consuming, is to remove the entire backbox board mechanism. To do so, here are the steps:

* First be sure that there are 2 screws, sufficiently extended toward each other, at the midpoint of the internal backbox so that the backbox board can rest securely upon same, when the backbox is retracted diagonally downward for access.
* Next, identify a soft, safe location immediately behind the game to place the heavy backbox board once it is removed.
* Next, unplug the Jones plugs.
* Next, unscrew the 3 female Jones plug assemblies at the bottom.
* Next, while supporting the backbox in the down position, unscrew the 4 or 5 or so screws on the hinge, which hold the hinge itself to the cabinet.
* Next, while holding the weight of the backbox board mechanism, carefully set it aside with the hinge still attached. You will now have enough room to insert the backglass from the bottom up, even with the wooden support braces intact, at the top of the internal backbox.
* After installing the backglass, be careful to align the bottom of the backbox board when reattaching the hinge, to avoid pressing against the backglass.

Alternatively, since your backbox "frame" is already removed, you have the additional option to simply place the backglass into the frame alone and then carefully glue the frame (with glass installed) back onto the backbox. However, this will require a careful use of the glue to avert seepage into the glass.

Frankly, I think that Ryan had the timing of this gift off by a month. Shouldn't the greatest gobble hole game ever made (according to Wayne Neyens himself) be the subject of the turkey holiday? Merry Christmas to all and to all a gobble hole night.

#7299 1 year ago
Quoted from Pecos:

I would hate myself if this beauty got broken. You did a great job packaging it. Thanks!

Here are some pics of the frame. Are the nails supposed to be there? Wood Frame + Nails + Glue + Backglass + ME + Hammer = Disaster. I don't like the math!

Thank you for the detailed description for this method. I don't mind removing the backbox mech board and this seems the safest so this is the method I will use.
Here is the nice letter you sent with the backglass - hope you don't mind if I share.

If you go the backbox mechanical board removal route, you will, naturally, need to first secure that frame to the backbox. The frame was originally attached at the factory without nails, as I recall. In any event, nails are not needed and are cumbersome, now that the frame has been removed. Thus, utilizing wood glue to secure the frame will be needed, irrespective of the backglass installation method you select. Discard the nails and fill the nail holes with wood filler, if any such holes are visible. Also, if desired, lightly sand and refinish the exposed portion of the frame. Then, repaint the black portion of the frame with gloss black paint, prior to reattaching the frame.

Given that you need to glue the frame to the backbox anyway, I would consider installing the backglass at the time of the frame installation, if you are confident with your ability to glue. I would place the backbox flat on its back and let gravity do the work. Place a thin piece of foam (1/8 or 1/16 inch thick) over the light-board. Lay the backglass over the foam. The 2 wooden braces at the top will not interfere with this method. Carefully and judiciously run a very thin bead of wood glue on the frame's surface. Align the frame with the backbox, press lightly and wait overnight. The only cautionary measure is to go easy on the glue to avert seepage to the backglass.

If you're not confident with your gluing skills, opt for one of the other methods.

We're all anxious to see the finished product, Pecos. No joke!

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#7300 1 year ago

The photo in my previous post failed to load. Let's try to load a couple here.

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1 week later
#7441 1 year ago
Quoted from RyanClaytor:

I dunno, I think a simple print of this...

...might suffice.

RYAN: “Sheesh, that game is hot as sh**. With the purple powder coat."

COLSON: “Whoa! Yes! Whoa!”

RYAN: “Yes! The Colson has scored. Whoa, my man!”

[pinball cross talk]

RYAN: “It better not be a reimport. No it’s a domestic game, it’s”

COLSON: “Yeah that’s a Bad Cats with the gold legs. I better bring some ratchet wrenches, in case I start wanting to unscrew her. You know, I’m automatically attracted to beautiful clearcoats. . .I just start road tripping them. It’s like a magnet. Just road trip. I don’t even wait. And when you’re Colson, they let you do it. You can do anything."

RYAN: “Whatever you want.”

COLSON: “Grab them by the coin door.. You can do anything.”

#7451 1 year ago
Quoted from RyanClaytor:

I must admit...I'm still trying to figure-out this post. Ha-ha!
ZNET, were you hittin' the New Year's Eve juice a little early?
Also loved this one...
Lookin' forward to more in 2018!

Well, I guess that the joke fell flat. It's a homage to the infamous Billy Bush Hollywood Access videotape and the fact that Colson is known for "grabbing" games. When you're famous, they let you grab things, like Bad Cats or similarly-named anatomical disparagements.

5 months later
#8850 1 year ago
Quoted from bluespin:

Navl will probably charge $500. It sounds like the seller isn’t motivated by money, but wants it to go to someone that will enjoy it. Call the seller, tell him what you told us about Replayfx, and ask if he can come down to $300 so that you can have Navl pick it up. Then it costs you $800 for a rare pin.

STI/Beltmann/NAVL (i.e. Michelle Bianchi) would likely cost closer to $400, ground floor to ground floor) from CA to Ohio. At $900 total, including shipping, the purchase of that Fairy is certainly within the value range for that title in good condition. It is unlikely that another will surface for sale anytime soon.

2 weeks later
#9118 1 year ago

That description is incorrect. That's not the home version playfield. It's the commercial Fireball Classic playfield with the wrong apron.

1 week later
#9437 1 year ago

Here's an odd one: CCM Big Flipper with big flippers. . .worth a tad less than big flipper Data East King Kong. . .just a tad.

ebay.com link » 1970 Chicago Coins Big Flipper Pinball Machine Watch Video

2 months later
#10561 1 year ago
Quoted from Ballypin:

That went FAST. Hopefully Nic nabbed it for the RPM.

I bought TNT's 1968/69 Bally Cosmos, as soon as I viewed the listing on Saturday, which was about 12 hours after it appeared on various pinball sites. TNT is only 30 miles from me. This project game has good bones and should clean up well. The original backglass is particularly nice. TNT's Todd Tuckey had a foreign buyer; but, chose to sell it locally to avert the shipping hassle. The sale was seemless and I had fun playing the games at TNT. Todd was very courteous.

I suppose that Nic and his museum will snag the next Cosmos which appears for sale on the east coast.

Meanwhile, I am seeking to buy an apron, plunger cover, and red flippers with raised lettering. One flipper is cracked and I'm unsure how well this apron will clean up in terms of the graphics. Here is the apron I'm seeking to replace, plus a photo of the playfield as found, the cabinet, and a photo of the well-preserved backglass.

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#10563 1 year ago
Quoted from Ballypin:

Congrats on your Cosmos score !! The BG looks in amazing shape. I found mine in Boston last year and made a 2 day driving adventure (ala ryanclaytor ) to pick it up. I need to hit up Steve at BGResto and get a new BG for mine. That apron in lime green is similar to other Bally titles so finding a replacement may not be so difficult.
If you have not seen this Cosmos game review, check it out:
nicovolta did score a zipper this week...he just needs the slacking seller to get East Bound and Down with it

The prior owner placed a redundant nail between the zipper flippers. I will have to repair the holes in that area with Bondo. Fortunately, there are no security bar holes on the front (photo attached) so at least that indignity was spared. The game came with original schematics and above-average correct legs, which is always a plus.

Todd recorded a video of the purchase. I imagine that he will post it on the TNT site, at some point.

I recently restored a Bally Surfers and Rocket III, two other Ted Zale zipper flipper games. Sold my '72 Fireball over a decade ago. I guess that I am on the zipper flipper train, at the moment.

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#10604 1 year ago
Quoted from bluespin:

You’re thinking of Pennsylvania

Pinball is plentiful in PA, NJ and NY. Georgia does have its fair share, though.

3 weeks later
#10827 1 year ago
Quoted from JethroP:

Scored this one!! It's a project alright ![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Among Parker's best backglass creations. Very good playfield geometry as well on Harbor Lites. Congrats.

5 months later
#11935 8 months ago
Quoted from bluespin:

For example the three highest priced classic Ballys (78-84) were selling for $800-1,000 3-4 years ago (Fathom, Eight Ball Deluxe and Centaur). Now these same pins sell for Fathom $5,500, EBD $2,500 and Centaur $4,000. What these long time hobbyists don't tell you is that they have seller's remorse. They bought a Centaur project for $400-500, spent $100 on parts and sold it for $1,000 four years ago. If they had kept it they could sell it today for $4,000, with several interested buyers.

I agree with your overall observation with one exception. Fathom had eclipsed the $7K price point in 2013, six years ago. Nice ones were consistently fetching about $5K and the prime examples were selling for slightly north of $7K.

I remember that spike because I traded my Fathom that year for a valuation in that $7K range.

Decent condition Fathoms (and Centaurs to a lesser extent) have commanded enhanced price points for six to nine years, excluding outlier sales data. The price escalated geometrically on Fathom in 2013 and has stabilized in that general $5K+ range ever since.

#11939 8 months ago
Quoted from jmountjoy111:

This must’ve been a regional thing. I knew the location four fathoms in 2015. All in the same place all in various conditions. Two were working and two were projects. The working machines were priced around 2000 to 2500 and the projects were more in the $1000 range. I remember passing on all of them thinking that was pretty steep.

The $5K to $7K range for Fathom sales in 2013 reflects games in collector quality to high end restoration condition.

Functional and nonfunctional projects, especially those with substantial cosmetic issues, were selling in the $1K to $2,500 range. I agree with that valuation relative to 2015.

These were the average sales prices in the USA, not particular to any region and excluding the outlier sales.

4 months later
#13235 4 months ago
Quoted from edward472:

Manufacturer: Bally
Game/Type: Surfers / EM 1 Player
Month/Year: December 1967
Cost: $150
Location: Hillsborough, NC
Link/Contact: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/333833977569715/
OP: TWorked have not use in years saleing as is

A steal. Fantastic game.

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