Wow, wish I was there. I could use one of those.

Wow! That thing is a parts machine only.

On Beam is such a cool (and tough) game, though I'm biased because I have one. But that's because it's such a cool (and tough) game! Someone go save this!

I could too. Need a glass for Time Line

Not a lot of info:

Freddy 'Cougar' pinball near Pittsburgh. I've messaged to get info but no response yet. Could be a steal, could be a bust.

pittsburgh.craigslist.org link

Manufacturer: Williams
Game/Type: DING DONG! / EM 1 Player
Month/Year: February 1968
Production: 1,850
Cost: $450
Location: Luray (Harrisonburg), Virginia
Contact/Link: harrisonburg.craigslist.org link

Condition: "here's the deal It was working I transported it and something must of came lose know it comes up lights up but the score just spins and spins also I have misplaced the bag of keys and extra bands"

I just wanted to say Ding Dong.

Manufacturer: Bally
Game/Type: Boomerang / EM 4 Player
Month/Year: December 1974
Production: 2,585
Cost: $625.00
Location: Toledo
Contact/Link: toledo.craigslist.org link

Boomerang PINBALL MACHINE Vintage Excellent Working condition FUN!!! Many lights and rubber bumpers replaced. Solid cabinet, graphics, and Back-glass Artwork. Very exciting to play. Paul Bunyan pinball machine is also for sale on the Findlay Craig's list NO TEXTS or EMAILS USE phone number in the contact section of this post.
++++++++++++++++++

This one has a little play field wear, but it looks like a cool pinball machine.

Manufacturer: Williams
Game/Type: Police Force / SS 4 Player
Month/Year: August, 1989
Production: 4,757
Cost: $800 FIRM "Working Project"
Location: Portage, MI
Pinsider: mc8045
Link/Contact: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/58854

Manufacturer: Zaccaria, of Bologna, Italy (1974-1987)
Game/Type: Universe / EM 4 Player
Month/Year: November, 1977
Production: ???
Cost: $400 "The play field, back screen and bumpers are in great condition. There is no coin box but overall the machine is in really good condition. It will require some additional work to get it to play correctly. call or text for additional information."
Location: Escondido, CA
Link/Contact: sandiego.craigslist.org link

Neat! I've not seen that one before. Nice find.

I contacted this guy and he has not gotten back to me. Ad is still up though. I would buy it. I think maybe these ads are to show the wife that no one is interested.

Manufacturer: Gottlieb
Game/Type: Torch / SS 1 Player
Month/Year: February 1980
Production: 3,880
Cost: $200
Location: Louisville, KY
Contact/Link: louisville.craigslist.org link

Condition: "Have a pinball machine its a 1980 gottlieb TORCH needs work doesnt turn on. Perfect idea for someone who knows how to work on pinball machines probably an easy fix once fixed you will get lots of enjoyment out of it we did! its been in the family for years. I would keep but I dont have the time or money to get it fixed. Will except all offers!! Need gone ASAP! If interested call or text"

Note: I'm pretty bummed about this one. It's a good deal, and I wanted a Winter project and texted about it - he wants cash. I offered PayPal or any other means of payment and he did not return my texts. I'm 5 hours away and I got a good pile of snow on me today. I haven't seen any pictures yet. So I dunno. Go get it I guess, but remember this: I will be sad.

I still find this statement hilarious

Easy fix for Gottlieb Torch:

Confirm the little transformer isn't a smoldered mess
Replace all the edge pins, including those bifurcated split-pins
Do all the ground mods
Replace the Power supply. (or rebuild - after all, that's "easy" too!)
Replace the MPU (do not consider attempting a repair, unless you are already an expert, and have plenty of spare parts on hand)
Check the Driver board for shorted transistors

At that point maybe... MAYBE power it on and troubleshoot further.

Not to say $200 isn't a fair price. Just that people so often have no idea.

FYI, offering paypal for low-value pick-up item screams scam, and most sellers will stop any discussion/transaction right there.

Torch is a fun machine, another if I was closer. I've taken to just biting the bullet and putting in the pascal all-in-one board and replacing the edge pins that are left. works great and adds some nice features.

I know. It was worth a shot. I'm sure someone will end up with a project game. It's why I posted it here.

I text the guy but got no response. I was shocked that I hadn’t seen it and then I realized for some reason my Craigslist search for Louisville was turned off. I don’t know how that happened but it probably saved me some cash lol

Definitely wish I was closer on that one...that's a great price for an Embryon that could be restored.

I'm picking this up on Monday

I'll likely have something similar, but working condition, for sale next weekend. Will be putting up a marketplace ad around that time

PM sent.

Get to it after Queen of Hearts Pecos!!

All Sys 80 games can be a pain, that's why I usually just replace the boards in them. Ni Wumpfs work great. And I think you saw it in the other thread, just got my new glass from Shay. Thing is sweet...definitely recommended. If yours is shot, he only has one left from this run.

IMG_4559 (resized).JPG

IMG_4560 (resized).JPG

Oh - I am in no way saying they are not worth it - just to be wary.

My first experiences with Sys1 had been a steady, prolonged kick in the balls. I would like to do what I can that no one else endure the same pain that I had gone through.
Also, I'm almost reluctant to say, but the bifurcated pins seem to have become available again. There are two vendors that I know of that are carrying them. If they will continue to be available I don't know. So do I say, "Hey guys, there they are!" or do I stay silent, and hoard them all for myself?

As for my Torch, I paid $300 for it. Has a flaky backglass, worn playfield and the MPU was no good. At this point, I'm an MPU away from having it working again. I also want to say I have no regrets about it.

Here are the pins:
http://www.arcadeshop.com/i/475/molex-pin-snap-in-crimp.htm

-dave

You made a very good point that I would not have considered before when looking at a "Dead" Sys 1 game. To somehow check to see if the small transformer (NLA) is still good. Beyond that, just about everything is available (at a cost). So, yes, it is very easy for a "good buy" to become a project that quickly exceeds its working value. Hopefully, on that matter, more and more people will appreciate System 1 games and the value of them will start to increase. If you like early Bally SS and late EM games, many of the Sys 1 games offer the same fun of a Late model EM without the need to know, understand, or maintain Relay/Stepper logic. All the bulletproofing information, and new boards have made System 1 games VERY reliable.

But, sadly, there are a few dogs in there too. But something has to give up its life to keep the better ones alive!

Thanks for pointing that out. I'll keep that in mind when I come across them. And I agree, I've had quite a few CE3K's, and 2 Incredible Hulk's. Great fun games in my opinion.

My understanding is that the small transformer is mostly about powering the displays. I have seen replacement LED displays become available for the Sys1 and 80. I assume these run on 5 volts, so I wonder if the small transformer is necessary if these are replaced?

If so, then there is a final workaround for that last early-Gottlieb problem. Not necessarily cheap though.

I just listed a Bad Cats project for trade in the market place. Looking for other projects preferably

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/59005

LED displays would need at least 5v and 12v.

The only LED displays being produced that I'm aware of are here:

http://www.bostonpinballcompany.com/displays.htm

The small transformer carries a bit more than just the high voltage for the displays:

The two transformers convert the 120 volts AC input to other voltages needed for the game. The large transformer outputs power for the solenoids (24 volts), general illumination light power (6.3 volts), and CPU controlled light power (6 volts). The small transformer outputs the main score display voltage (60/42 volts), the computer board voltage (12 volts which ultimately ends up as +5 volts), and the score display offset/reference voltages (8 and 4 volts).
http://www.pinrepair.com/sys1/

But, depending on what the LED displays actually require, and as long as you install a power supply for the 12v, it could be something worth exploring. If this turns out to be a viable workaround, it sure could save a fair number of games with dead small transformer.

Really??? I don't know that I'd agree with that. At least in my experience, I offered a seller of a low priced pin ($150) his entire asking price via PayPal if he would hold the pin for me. When I showed up to pick up the machine I inquired if he'd had any other interest. He said said, "Yah, probably about 30 other folks."

*LOL* ...glad I sent him some dough.

Good luck! (What's the word?)

You took the words out of my mouth. That thing does indeed look crazy-sweet.

Literally laughed out loud.

If you'd be willing to ship, I'd buy it.

Manufacturer: Williams
Game/Type: Firepower
Month/Year: February, 1980
Production: 17,410 units
Cost: $775
Location: Lincoln University, PA
Contact/Link: philadelphia.craigslist.org link

Looks to be in nice cosmetic shape, but take a look at the bottom of the driver board. That thing is gonna probably need a bit more attention than just a transistor...

Still, awesome game in decent shape otherwise.

Anyone know of a Hot Shots 1989 Gottlieb for sale?

Manufacturer: Gottlieb
Game/Type: Top Score / EM
Month/Year: October, 1975
Production: 3,200
Cost: $350
Location: Malvern, PA
Pinsider: Pinphila
Link/Contact: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/59021

Manufacturer: Bally
Game/Type: Paragon / SS
Month/Year: June 1979
Production: 9,120
Cost: $975
Location: Malvern, PA
Pinsider: Pinphila
Link/Contact: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/59020

I got in touch with him. He doesn't like answering questions about the game, and is not very cooperative. The backglass is actually pretty bad, not in great shape.

Good to know! Makes my decision not to pursue it that much easier. It was tempting at first, but only if it was gonna be like $500-600. $775 is steep considering what it needs (not to mention the unknowns in a case like this)...

Definitely. I wouldn't waste your time. I asked him two questions, and he sent me a snippy email back saying "I don't think this game is for you." What's better is he had sent me an email just before that saying "do you have any more questions?" Always funny when someone that isn't a hobbyist or doesn't know me tells me what I should or shouldn't buy.

Then again, I guess you could try. He did have it listed at 1000 initially, then down to 850, and now down to 775. He might go lower.

I got word from boston pinball that the 42v, 60v, and 5vac were not needed for the LED displays. So, it sounds like you could potentially use the LED displays without having a working small transformer.

11.5vac and 14vac are still required, which get rectified and regulated into +5vdc and -12vdc. So, you could probably bypass the game's power supply with an arcade power supply for those voltages.

Good to know!

So... pull the small transformer and associated rectifiers / fuses, and install a switching power supply. Would work on any game with Futaba-style replacement displays. Not a bad mod, if the value justifies the price.

I just did a quick write-up for it here:

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_1#Workaround_for_Dead_Small_Transformer

I think I would just desolder the wires on the transformer and cap off the wires. Then, put the arcade power supply in the cabinet, and tap the incoming AC from the inner facing side of the EMI filter. Get an edge connector for J1 on the MPU, then run the 5v, 12v, and ground wires from the power supply to the J1 connector for the MPU.

So, if someone ends up finding an original transformer, they can easily reverse the modification and install a proper transformer.

[edit]: Actually, after glancing at the schematics, since the main fuse is after the EMI filter, you should tap somewhere else down the line after the fuse and power switch. You could probably put some ring terminals on the hot and common wires for the small transformer, and attach those to the arcade power supply. Then run a ground wire from the power supply to the ground terminal on the EMI filter.

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