Popeye Saves the Earth
Bally, 1994Quoted from PinballManiac40:hmmm...
dead end? , you think I should order a new board with all these different issues I am having? I just think it would suck if I did drop over 300 bucks and it was still screwy....argh. Damn you Bluto!
Can you go into the bottom of the cabinet behind the transformer and unplug/plug the two wire harnesses? As you unplug them, check to see if there are any burnt pins.
Quoted from mattcrispell:The traces are good.
Are you set on the ohms (horseshoe) and set the meter at 200 ohms. Ideally, they are about 1 ohms on each of the two traces between the C30 and BR5.
Quoted from PinballManiac40:Are you set on the ohms (horseshoe) and set the meter at 200 ohms. Ideally, they are about 1 ohms on each of the two traces between the C30 and BR5.
I will take the board out again tonight and take a pic of me testing those two traces . When I soldered the wires , that seems to be what caused the fuse to blow. I dont have any of that thicker gauge pinball machine wire, I used something thinner, I will take a photo of that too. Attached are photos from the transformer, things look ok to me. I checked two other plugs too that run from the transformer , they looked alright also
did you add those wires? in the last picture there are added wires and they are not like what pinballmaniac showed you. You hooked to both the bottom legs of the BR when you needed to hook to the caddy corner legs. Look at his two pictures on the first page and you will see your wires are not soldered the same way.
Quoted from Jdawg4422:did you add those wires? in the last picture there are added wires and they are not like what pinballmaniac showed you. You hooked to both the bottom legs of the BR when you needed to hook to the caddy corner legs. Look at his two pictures on the first page and you will see your wires are not soldered the same way.
well, that would explain why the fuse blew on me (probably) , I will put the wires onto the correct points and return with the results...I will try to be more careful.
Quoted from mattcrispell:I will take the board out again tonight and take a pic of me testing those two traces . When I soldered the wires , that seems to be what caused the fuse to blow.
Now that make sense. You soldered the one wire on the right to the wrong spot.
BR5 (resized).jpg
Those connectors at the transformer look to be in great shape. Problem bound to be on the driver board.
Quoted from PinballManiac40:Those connectors at the transformer look to be in great shape. Problem bound to be on the driver board.
I havent had a chance to solder the wires to the right spots just yet, I will report back as soon as I do. Hopefully I didnt fry a bunch of other components with that error.
You need to go into the solenoid test and see if it fires the VUK coil. In the switch test, run your finger through the optos above the coil to be sure it registers.
Quoted from PinballManiac40:You need to go into the solenoid test and see if it fires the VUK coil. In the switch test, run your finger through the optos above the coil to be sure it registers.
cool, solenoid test, it doesnt fire, switch test shows that the opto is working, do you recommend a good site to order a ae 24 900 coil from?
Quoted from mattcrispell:cool, solenoid test, it doesnt fire, switch test shows that the opto is working, do you recommend a good site to order a ae 24 900 coil from?
The coil looks brand new actually. Are those 3 wires soldered well to the coil? One of the thicker wires looks to be not connected well.
If connected, I think you should check to see if you have a blown fuse on F101 to F105 on the power driver board.
Quoted from PinballManiac40:The coil looks brand new actually. Are those 3 wires soldered well to the coil? One of the thicker wires looks to be not connected well.
If connected, I think you should check to see if you have a blown fuse on F101 to F105 on the power driver board.
Hey, I was the one that replaced the coil about a year ago. However, I just tested the old coil and the new coil with the DMM and got readings of 6 ohms on the coil I replaced ( outside of the machine ) and the coil that is in there now also read 6 ohms. The fuses look fine, I did continuity checks on all of them and they don't look blown either.
I was reading about coils and diodes and noticed that I don't see a diode for that right popper anywhere, is it located somewhere else maybe? Could a blown transistor be causing this issue? I did replace several of the tip-102 and the other ones on the main board. Maybe I missed one?
I will await to hear your suggestion before I monkey around with it anymore. Thanks again.
Quoted from mattcrispell:Hey, I was the one that replaced the coil about a year ago. However, I just tested the old coil and the new coil with the DMM and got readings of 6 ohms on the coil I replaced ( outside of the machine ) and the coil that is in there now also read 6 ohms. The fuses look fine, I did continuity checks on all of them and they don't look blown either.
Then there is no reason to suspect a bad coil if it measures good.
Quoted from mattcrispell:Could a blown transistor be causing this issue? I did replace several of the tip-102 and the other ones on the main board. Maybe I missed one?
Possible, but it is easy to damage the power driver board removing these transistors. Which ones did you replace?
Quoted from mattcrispell:I was reading about coils and diodes and noticed that I don't see a diode for that right popper anywhere, is it located somewhere else maybe?
If none of the other coils do not have a diode, then this would not need it either. Flipper coils will always need them so look at all the others.
Quoted from mattcrispell:I did replace several of the tip-102 and the other ones on the main board. Maybe I missed one?
If you replaced multiple transistors for multiple coils firing, keep in mind there are other parts that control when the transistors fire, so it is very unlikely all the transistors you replaced were bad. In this case, you had the 12Vunregulated voltage low, this was the cause of your problem this time.
According to the manual, Q80, a TIP-36C drives that left popper.
You need to test it with the diode test on your multimeter.
from Pinwiki...
TIP-36C
1.Place the red lead of your DMM on the metal tab of the transistor
2.Probe each of the flanking (outer) legs with the black lead
3..4 to .6 volts is a normal reading. Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor
4.Probe the center leg with the black lead to the metal tab with the red lead.
5.A "short" should be seen on test 4. If not, then the transistor has failed.
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