I love it when people step up. Well done.

Its the same little post with small rubber on both sides. So since you didn't say what side you wanted, just look at the other

Well, I took a look at mine and when I look underneath to figure out of it was a wood screw post or going into a tee-nut. But they both fall right where the rails land. The base is rounded so I started thinking the post goes through the hole and the rail is put over the bottom of the post and a nut put on.

So I looked in the manual on IPDB and looked at the list on page 95. The only one that matched is 02-4660

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=catalog&mode=search&search_in=all&search_str=02-4660

99% sure without taking it out. They are single bumper posts with the cone top and smooth base. With the round tells me there is nothing to put a wrench on so it must slip though and have a nut.

I like to keep my games set difficult. This way when I play a different one I am not at a disadvantage of what to expect against other people.

Next you need a ColorDMD

He is saying that as if the theme for the pinball machine is an episode. It was not a real cartoon. He is just saying the theme of the game kind of follows along with the way Popeye / Bluto are portrayed in the old cartoons.

I miss just about every old B/W game I had sold in the past (especially Junkyard). Funny thing is I never gave Popeye a real chance in the old days. It was hard to see things and I didn't know all of the rules as well as I do now so I joined the crowd and used it as a running joke with GI and Raven.

But then -

I actually picked up my Popeye just to color it for ColorDMD. Oh, and mine had a trough opto issue also, and a few others. But I fixed it up quick like any B/W game, easy when you have done it for years. Now after having to go through every switch, every animation, every short cut to goals and every bonus there is on that game I have a new appreciation.

No it is not my favorite game of all time and it will never be an "A"-list game. But it is fun solid game with good rules and great animations (especially in color). Definitely worth the money.

The top of the plastic to lite Super Animals broke? I don't think it is common.

I would super glue a metal washer underneath. And if you have the broken piece of plastic glue it back on top. If you get a washer of the perfect size it can act like a fender washer saving slingshot plastics from breaking again.

What he said. There is a map. Also 3 lights under the ramp. The lights let you know what pathways will move you. Trap the ball and take a look.

If you are real good then from the start just shoot the center about 4 times and you won. But if you miss you are down a wrong corridor.

(thanks Phoebe)

Here I will post a GIF showing you how moving forward 4 times from the start does a rescue. The map on the right shows "you" the arrow moving to the "X". The animation will show if you went forward, left or right. Hopefully your optos and switch are working correctly and when the ball goes through the center it does not roll up to the right opto (common problem) looking like a right door.

RescueSweePea.gif

Make sure you use the escalator to get the ball to the top playfield. It should tell you that you are rescuing Swee Pea. But to me if you are on the screen with the doors you are all set.

With the glass off it should be easy. If anything is acting funny put it in switch edge test mode and make sure the two optos and switch are working correctly.

Isn't there a diverter in there that decides if the ball goes to the lock area or straight through to be kicked back? When messing with the switch did you mess the diverter up?

It is so cool seeing those pictures of the ColorDMD.

Most likely the version 4 / 5 export are the exact same game code, rules, dots and sound. The difference in those days for export version were usually just coinage changes.

I had a T2 that kept thinking it was German. There are wires or switches for setting default country codes. Something like 5 little jumper wires in a row on the CPU to disable this as a default.

I did a quick search, read this and see if it helps -
http://www.flippers.be/basics/101_wpc_country_settings.html

Yes, from L2 to L4 there were changes worth upgrading for. Ball lock logic as well as speech and animations added.

1) With the trough opto boards first try reseating the collectors. Lots of shock can crack the solder on the headers. Reflow the solder would be nice. Check for a previous person doing poor work.

2) Does it fail during switch edge test? Put it in test mode and flick the switch. Check the wires on it and the diode.

4) Play with the ribbon cables. First check that you put them back right. Not off a pin, red band to pin 1. And that the ends of the connectors are not splitting. If the whole game acts too strange look for previous leaking batter issues. This could do "anything".

The Burned connector housing should be J-120 and is for the playfield GI (General Illumination). Very common connector to burn since they were on all the time when the games are on route. This won't effect the booting of the game or other issues.

I would not just go randomly flipping the cable orientations without checking how they should be. But yes, whatever position it was in when it worked once is the correct way.

If letting a game cool off helps to make it work this is commonly a cold solder joint, cracked at a header pin or there might be component failure occurring. Capacitors in high voltage sections can do this as they dry out so that could effect the DMD.

Pity bump.

Yes, it is a strange mech. There are really a lot of parts on a Popeye.

Wow, nice looking machine. Mine is so beat up and dark looking. I really do need to give it the Comet treatment. I'm not a huge LED fan but the Comet frosted warm whites in the GI sure make things visible.

Also, it is always so cool seeing a ColorDMD in Popeye.

Much better.

My biggest problem with Popeye is there are a lot of things to go wrong. I rebuilt the center Bluto ball lock trough a few months ago and its acting up again.

Who would put a ColorDMD in Popeye?

(Seriously, I would love to know how many people did)

You kept Gorgar and Road Kings over Popeye? I might have to give you a thumbs down.

Sorry you had to make such a tragic decision

I had to fold mine up and move it to storage

I have no room at the house so it has been on loan to The Sanctum. But they have the big tournament "24 Hour Battle" coming up and all of the pins need to be running 100% (100 people locked in for 24 hours straight of pinball can be grueling on pins and people). The Bluto trough was acting up again and I don't have time to make it perfect. So I pulled the ColorDMD and batteries and let them swap it with a WCS I had in storage.

So I'm still a member of the club but not an active member

I know. I thought about that, trust me. I don't know if I need to change my avatar picture now.

Thanks, I appreciate it. I had to take the glass off to get there and color test. It would be nice if I was good enough at playing to get to all the scenes I colored.

Nice looking game. Why does the DMD look red?

(you will never find all of the glass)

I would think this will get better attention in a repair thread rather than game specific since this is a generic issue.

But - If all but one lamp in the row is out I would assume the wire Red with Brown stripe is broken between the game over lamp and the next one in the chain. If you are lucky it is right at the game over lamp socket where 2 wires should be daisy chained and one hopefully broken off.

The next one must be that Back Box tail (not shown in manual). But you can confirm the continuity break in the Red-Brown wire to one of the bulbs you can find for now. (11,21,31,41,51,61) Having that tail 71 lamp being in the lamp chain would be strange because you normally do not have bulbs in the back box and playfield on the same connector. This way you can unplug and remove the playfield.

Backbox lamps being out sounds like a GI wire or burned connector. Probably not related.

Just the metal, probably not. If it was plug and play with switches, coil and plugs all set to screw up and plug in? Maybe. But when you have a player version you just want working that is 10% of the price of the game (to me )

I had my Popeye in The Sanctum until the damn thing started acting up again. It had been bent in so many directions to make
up for bad switches or whatever the usual issues were.

After decades of diving too far into the hobby I have been pulling back the past year. This also means thinning the heard. Popeye was the latest casualty. I will always have a soft spot for Popeye. I love when I see one with a ColorDMD.

Sorry to leave the club.

While I am not a fan of LEDs, I get so happy when I see the ColorDMD. About a year after doing the coloring (and taking a lot of crap for doing it) I asked Randy (DMOD) how they are selling. I said I know you can't give me numbers, but are people buying them? He told me more than he had expected. I'm very happy.

Good luck. I'm looking forward to seeing how scenes like the Toxic Waste barrels comes out