(Topic ID: 105283)

Popeye ... owners club


By skygualker

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 481 posts
  • 81 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 13 hours ago by yfz450
  • Topic is favorited by 32 Pinsiders

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There are 481 posts in this topic. You are on page 10 of 10.
#451 12 days ago

Hey y'all! I joined the Popeye Club last week. Love the game, good fun! I made some instruction cards for my game and figure I'd share here for anyone who wants to change things up. Note: I did not account for the ship covering part of the cards, but still looks good in my opinion! They're already sized for printing on a 4x6 photo paper. Download link: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/m8n90fh5bmht7lg/AABAT-XHMAnBIqrtfcrPbQeGa?dl=0

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#452 11 days ago

Looks FANTASTIC!

#453 11 days ago

Soooo nice, Im going to use them on my Popeye

Thanks!!!

#454 11 days ago
Quoted from wayinla:

I have some questions about locking the balls in Bluto. What mode must the Jab lights be in order for a ball to be locked (solid, blinking or off)? If the the Lockjaw light is blinking will the ball always be locked? Sometimes I expect the ball to be locked but it gets spit out even if Bluto says “Make yourself at home”.

If you already have enough balls in the trough for the lock number then it will just spit out the ball but you get credit for the lock.

#455 11 days ago
Quoted from spidey:

If you already have enough balls in the trough for the lock number then it will just spit out the ball but you get credit for the lock.

Thanks. I think I’ve figured it out. I really don’t know why this game has such a bad rep. To me the layout is well thought out with some tricky but not impossible shots. The upper play field is tough but fun. I wonder if targets would have made it more accurate. Maybe too easy? I also love the “not really instant” 4 multi ball mode. There’s a lot to like!

#456 11 days ago

Thanks for all the positive feedback on the instruction cards! Here was today’s project. My game clearly spent years in a smoking establishment and has needed extensive refurbishment in the tar stain department. The boat was the worst of it and with some bleach, dawn, steel wool and elbow grease we’re looking a lot better! First photo is the before. Second photo is the halfway point. A good look at the before and after!

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#457 11 days ago
Quoted from Camvr2013:

Hey y'all! I joined the Popeye Club last week. Love the game, good fun! I made some instruction cards for my game and figure I'd share here for anyone who wants to change things up. Note: I did not account for the ship covering part of the cards, but still looks good in my opinion! They're already sized for printing on a 4x6 photo paper. Download link: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/m8n90fh5bmht7lg/AABAT-XHMAnBIqrtfcrPbQeGa?dl=0 [quoted image][quoted image]

Awesome job!

#458 11 days ago

Asking again - has anyone ever had issues with the multi ball restart? Is there a glitch with code or something that would stop the timer when the shot into bluto's mouth is made, resulting in the ball staying there, a new one ejects into the ball launch and then play resumes as if nothing happened? No more multi ball, just normal ball. When it drains, launch another ball, get it in the center weldment and it tries to immediately begin multi ball when there's not even a second ball locked.

#459 10 days ago
Quoted from sevenrites:

Asking again - has anyone ever had issues with the multi ball restart? Is there a glitch with code or something that would stop the timer when the shot into bluto's mouth is made, resulting in the ball staying there, a new one ejects into the ball launch and then play resumes as if nothing happened? No more multi ball, just normal ball. When it drains, launch another ball, get it in the center weldment and it tries to immediately begin multi ball when there's not even a second ball locked.

Sounds like there is a switch not registering properly. Even if it works in test mode it may need adjusted when balls are present in game play.

#460 10 days ago

Sad to say I'm leaving the club

Its been a great few years and at least I leave this rulesheet as my legacy

https://papa.org/wp-content/uploads/Popeye.pdf

Absolutely love this game but I need to make some space and something has to give - it was a tough decision.

I'll be back onboard the good ship Popeye one day I'm sure

#461 10 days ago
Quoted from Ive:

Sad to say I'm leaving the club
Its been a great few years and at least I leave this rulesheet as my legacy
https://papa.org/wp-content/uploads/Popeye.pdf
Absolutely love this game but I need to make some space and something has to give - it was a tough decision.
I'll be back onboard the good ship Popeye one day I'm sure

I love the rules sheet that you’ve written. It was obviously written by someone who loves and understands the game. Thank you and I hope you make room for another Popeye soon!

#462 10 days ago
Quoted from McPin54:

Sounds like there is a switch not registering properly. Even if it works in test mode it may need adjusted when balls are present in game play.

Yes, I understand that whole part, however, not only doesn't it restart multi ball... The ball stays in play as if nothing happened. But once you drain it and the next ball comes up, it tries to start multi ball. So why would it restart after you launch a new ball, and not during the ball you were on after making that shot?

#463 9 days ago

I've had this happen in other games. I would start by looking at the switch matrix and make sure that it looks exactly like what's in the manual. There maybe a switch in row or column that's open or closed when ball drains and one of the trough switches then activates MB.
Do you have a credit dot or error?

#464 9 days ago
Quoted from Ive:

Sad to say I'm leaving the club
Its been a great few years and at least I leave this rulesheet as my legacy
https://papa.org/wp-content/uploads/Popeye.pdf
Absolutely love this game but I need to make some space and something has to give - it was a tough decision.
I'll be back onboard the good ship Popeye one day I'm sure

Sorry to see you go Ive. Thanks for your help with my Popeye and your awesome rulesheet.

#465 9 days ago

Ditto on Ive leaving. Thanks for the parts for my game. I only wish you had more plastics as they were in much better shape than the ones in my game!

#466 9 days ago
Quoted from McPin54:

I've had this happen in other games. I would start by looking at the switch matrix and make sure that it looks exactly like what's in the manual. There maybe a switch in row or column that's open or closed when ball drains and one of the trough switches then activates MB.
Do you have a credit dot or error?

Thank you, this sounds like a good place to start next. I'll take a look over the switch matrix. There is no credit dot and no errors are appearing in any of the switch tests.

#467 8 days ago
Quoted from sevenrites:

Thank you, this sounds like a good place to start next. I'll take a look over the switch matrix. There is no credit dot and no errors are appearing in any of the switch tests.

I always look at the grid. Sometimes switches that are closed are open and ones that are open should be closed. These don't always come up as errors in my experience. Through normal play they get activated one way or another and never show up as an error. Keep me posted, I'd love to see where the issue is

Good luck

#468 8 days ago
Quoted from sevenrites:

Asking again - has anyone ever had issues with the multi ball restart? Is there a glitch with code or something that would stop the timer when the shot into bluto's mouth is made, resulting in the ball staying there, a new one ejects into the ball launch and then play resumes as if nothing happened? No more multi ball, just normal ball. When it drains, launch another ball, get it in the center weldment and it tries to immediately begin multi ball when there's not even a second ball locked.

I'm gonna ask something from a different angle - have you ever taken the weldment apart from under the playfield and reinstalled it?

#469 8 days ago
Quoted from alexmogil:

have you ever taken the weldment apart from under the playfield and reinstalled it?

Just did that a few days ago, cleaned it all really well, noted the switches, their position, the angle using the adjustment screw, how torqued they were when tightened to try and avoid squeezing them too much and so on. I also did this with balls in there so I could see how they interact at each switch point, with 1, 2, 3 and 4 balls in there. And I checked each switch to make sure I could hear it click in and click out. I made a few adjustments and it's working better than ever in all switch testing and during game play it appears to be flawless, aside from the multi ball restart only.

#470 6 days ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

I spoke with Kerry from Mantis and he said he's not sure he can make the Bluto scoop but also said I was the 4th person in 10 years to ask for it.
So how many people here would buy one if Mantis could make it? If I can take a decent number to them we'd have a chance

Yes, I would buy bluto through also.

#471 6 days ago
Quoted from sevenrites:

Just did that a few days ago, cleaned it all really well, noted the switches, their position, the angle using the adjustment screw, how torqued they were when tightened to try and avoid squeezing them too much and so on. I also did this with balls in there so I could see how they interact at each switch point, with 1, 2, 3 and 4 balls in there. And I checked each switch to make sure I could hear it click in and click out. I made a few adjustments and it's working better than ever in all switch testing and during game play it appears to be flawless, aside from the multi ball restart only.

Are you absolutely positively super sure you put the switches in the right place? When I replaced my weldment piece I put two switches in the wrong place and the game got super confused. I'll take a pic or a diagram of mine if you want it.

#472 6 days ago

It's been many years ago. In a previous post. Someone wanted to make and sell a replacement bluto weldmont. Could not get enough interest at the time. I think he was around the 200 dollar range.

#473 5 days ago

A few people have been asking me to 3D model the lamp cover for the upper playfield. I spent the last couple of days modeling this and I think it came out pretty good.

I printed this in white petg, which is pretty durable and won’t warp from the heat of the lamps.

I’ll be selling these, if anyone is interested, pm me.

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#474 5 days ago
Quoted from yfz450:

A few people have been asking me to 3D model the lamp cover for the upper playfield. I spent the last couple of days modeling this and I think it came out pretty good.
I printed this in white petg, which is pretty durable and won’t warp from the heat of the lamps.
I’ll be selling these, if anyone is interested, pm me. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Nice job! Let us know how much.

#475 4 days ago

I would interested, nice work

#476 2 days ago
Quoted from wayinla:

I have some questions about locking the balls in Bluto. What mode must the Jab lights be in order for a ball to be locked (solid, blinking or off)? If the the Lockjaw light is blinking will the ball always be locked? Sometimes I expect the ball to be locked but it gets spit out even if Bluto says “Make yourself at home”.

I too have seen this where Lockjaw is lit but the ball gets spit out anyway. Then the next time in, the ball locks.
I have written the issue off to a possible code snafu. Not sure if I have the latest Popeye code or not. I have LX-5.
But I have never heard the sound bite "Make yourself at home" come out of my pin.

#477 2 days ago
Quoted from yfz450:

A few people have been asking me to 3D model the lamp cover for the upper playfield. I spent the last couple of days modeling this and I think it came out pretty good.
I printed this in white petg, which is pretty durable and won’t warp from the heat of the lamps.
I’ll be selling these, if anyone is interested, pm me. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Is there anyway you can include the decal that goes on it?

#478 2 days ago

I haven't done anything with the decal yet. I believe it would be easy to remove the original and use thin 2 way tape to apply the old decal to the new part since the decal is pretty thick.

I revamped the design a little. I opened up and realigned the pcb mounting holes a bit and added pcb support to the inside of the cover so it keeps the lamps centered in the holes. I also tightened up those lamp holes a bit.

I'm going to print one out tonight at higher resolution to get rid of the layer lines. I will post pictures when I'm done. I can also print these in different colors if desired? Blue might look good?

Price of the part is going to be around $18 plus shipping. It takes about 3 hours to print at the higher resolution.

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#479 2 days ago

sorry for the crappy picture. its a cell phone picture of my laptop.

Also, the people that already bought the first version will be getting this one in the mail on me.

#480 13 hours ago
Quoted from yfz450:

I'm going to print one out tonight at higher resolution to get rid of the layer lines.

Layer lines are a function of the quality/type of the rapid prototyping machine, or 3D printer, not the resolution of the CAD model (STL file, IGES file, ASCII file) there's no such thing as "CAD resolution"

Might want to think about maybe outsourcing the print job to a place that has a professional machine, such as a stratasys. Even those produce lines, but at a much finer scale.

I'm a career CAD Design Engineer hope this helps

#481 13 hours ago

I wasn’t talking about the resolution of the CAD model I was talking about the resolution of the layer lines in the slicer program.

Outsourcing would make this a $40 part.

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There are 481 posts in this topic. You are on page 10 of 10.

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