(Topic ID: 61499)

pop bumper lighting... there has GOT to be a better way...

By ccotenj

10 years ago


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  • 13 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 years ago by ccotenj
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    #1 10 years ago

    along with another parts order, i finally got a set of bumper bodies to replace the ones that i "mean greened" the color off of...

    was gonna throw them on the machine last night, then remembered what a pita it was to deal with the lamp sockets, so decided to save that for another day...

    i've seen the sockets with the wire leads vs. the metal ones, and thought that might be a good solution, but people seem to think those are ineffective... those only come in 555's but that should be no big deal?

    i'm thinking that if i take a piece of wire and solder it on to the end of the leads of a metal one carefully before sliding it through the pop bumper, it MIGHT fit through there, and then i could simply wire-nut it underneath the pf... this would make it a LOT easier to deal with, and would be reversible if someone wanted to put it back to original... fast-ons would be even better than wire-nutting, but a fast-on will never fit through the bumper body...

    whataya think? any other ideas? something as simple as a lighting circuit shouldn't be so freaking hard...

    chris

    #2 10 years ago

    The problem I have found with 555 sockets in the bumpers is many of the older bumper bodies are too short (or the 555 bulb and socket are too tall) to fit in there properly, particularly when using the wire leads. I have gone back to using the strip metal leads with a stapler.

    #3 10 years ago
    Quoted from SealClubber:

    The problem I have found with 555 sockets in the bumpers is many of the older bumper bodies are too short (or the 555 bulb and socket are too tall) to fit in there properly, particularly when using the wire leads. I have gone back to using the strip metal leads with a stapler.

    ah, gotcha... thanks...

    #4 10 years ago

    Yup, they are a pain in the butt.

    Some people will solder a piece of wire to the lamp leads and crimp electrical quick disconnects on the wires. Makes it easier the next time you have to pull them.

    #5 10 years ago
    Quoted from Garrett:

    Yup, they are a pain in the butt.
    Some people will solder a piece of wire to the lamp leads and crimp electrical quick disconnects on the wires. Makes it easier the next time you have to pull them.

    yea, that's what i'm going to try doing... can't hurt, and would be a ton easier...

    #6 10 years ago

    You guys really have a lot of pop bumper problems if you have to put quick disconnects on them....just sayin'.

    #7 10 years ago

    I just leave the metal leads loose, solder the wires on, use a short hex head screw with a washer to secure the lead to the playfield, then reinstall the coil assembly. This has made it easy on my games but may not work as well on some games that are more congested.

    #8 10 years ago
    Quoted from wayout440:

    You guys really have a lot of pop bumper problems if you have to put quick disconnects on them....just sayin'.

    Lol, nah. It just makes it easier to put them back together. And for the next guy in 2035 that wants to tear down the playfield.

    #9 10 years ago
    Quoted from wayout440:

    You guys really have a lot of pop bumper problems if you have to put quick disconnects on them....just sayin'.

    lol... no, I am the worlds worst solderer, and getting them soldered in there seems like I'd require 5 hands...

    #10 10 years ago
    Quoted from ccotenj:

    lol... no, I am the worlds worst solderer, and getting them soldered in there seems like I'd require 5 hands...

    LOL. It really doesn't matter as far as lighting goes, quick connects are fine if that is your thing. To me that's just another problem waiting to happen. A good mechanical connection covered by a thorough electrical connection (soldered) is a reliable connection where I don't have to worry about my pop lamps going out in the future.

    #11 10 years ago
    Quoted from ccotenj:

    lol... no, I am the worlds worst solderer, and getting them soldered in there seems like I'd require 5 hands...

    Don't have to be good when you're just doing 2 pieces of flat metal under the PF.

    #12 10 years ago

    Chris-
    Try this: tin both the socket blade and wire end with fresh solder. Then, use a small tool like a screwdriver blade to hold the wire on top of the blade. Heat with iron until both are liquid. Wait to cool and remove screwdriver holder. Works pretty well for me. If you staple them down first, even easier.

    #13 10 years ago
    Quoted from TheLaw:

    Don't have to be good when you're just doing 2 pieces of flat metal under the PF.

    you wouldn't think so, would you? i have shaky hands to begin with, and working in tight spaces makes it even worse...

    Quoted from stashyboy:

    Chris-
    Try this: tin both the socket blade and wire end with fresh solder. Then, use a small tool like a screwdriver blade to hold the wire on top of the blade. Heat with iron until both are liquid. Wait to cool and remove screwdriver holder. Works pretty well for me. If you staple them down first, even easier.

    ah cool... i'll try it that way... thanks dude...

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