Coeur D'alene, ID
Both the Outhole and one of the Pop Bumpers don't work on my Silverball Mania, however both of the switches register. Any suggestions?
(Topic ID: 108298)
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Silverball Mania
Bally, 1980
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Forgot to add, the solder joints are good too.
Quoted from vid1900:Do you have voltage at those coils?
I have not tested yet. What do I set my multimeter to?
Ok, how do I measure? I had my meter on DCV and put the black lead to ground and when I put the red lead on, I got a small spark. Now fuse F4 is blown...
Quoted from vid1900:Meter on DC Volts (if you don't have an auto-range meter, set it on 50-100v).
Put the black lead on ground (like the ground braid or the metal side rails)
Put the red lead on either terminal of the coil.
Look for about 43 volts.
Thats exactly what I did except for I had the DCV on my multimeter set higher.
Very odd, maybe the knob on the meter was between the dents.
We know the power supply is delivering 43v or you would not get the 7th flash on the MPU and the game would not boot into attract mode.
Put in a new fuse and try touching the coil lug with the NON BANDED SIDE OF THE DIODE to ground with a piece of wire.
This should fire the coil, assuming it has power.
Quoted from vid1900:Very odd, maybe the knob on the meter was between the dents.
We know the power supply is delivering 43v or you would not get the 7th flash on the MPU and the game would not boot into attract mode.
Put in a new fuse and try touching the coil lug with the NON BANDED SIDE OF THE DIODE to ground with a piece of wire.
This should fire the coil, assuming it has power.
Ok, Ill try that.
Quoted from CNKay:yes your red lead is in the 10A DC spot. You need to move red lead down one hole. so that you are in the V/ ohm/ mA area. You will want to leave it in that hole almost ALL of the time.</blockquote
Ok, I moved the red lead into the correct hole and I got voltage at the coil. Thanks for your help.
Great now you see the diode symbol to the left of the hfe setting. That is for testing diodes. If you find a switch diode and connect red to the unbanded side, black on the banded side. You should get .4-.7V reverse the leads you will get nothing (open or OL). Diode checking is important and useful in pin repair. Note the diodes on a coil can NOT be checked with out at least one side of the diode being removed, as they are connected in parallel with the coil which to the meter is just a short.
OK now back to your problem.
Quoted from CNKay:Great now you see the diode symbol to the left of the hfe setting. That is for testing diodes. If you find a switch diode and connect red to the unbanded side, black on the banded side. You should get .4-.7V reverse the leads you will get nothing (open or OL). Diode checking is important and useful in pin repair. Note the diodes on a coil can NOT be checked with out at least one side of the diode being removed, as they are connected in parallel with the coil which to the meter is just a short.
OK now back to your problem.
So I need to test the diode?
Quoted from CNKay:No i was just trying to give ya a little meter training and get you used to your meter.
Ah ok. Where should I go next, now that there ks voltage at the coil?
Well i would first go into diagnostic solenoid mode. Where it cycles through each of the solenoids and see if they fire. Then with the ball out in the shooter lane take out ball(S) ? and go into switch test make sure all the switches report back correctly.
I did not want to take over the trouble shooting as Vid is the expert. I always just peruse the tech stuff and Bally in particular now as i just recently have my first one.
Quoted from CNKay:Well i would first go into diagnostic solenoid mode. Where it cycles through each of the solenoids and see if they fire. Then with the ball out in the shooter lane take out ball(S) ? and go into switch test make sure all the switches report back correctly.
I did not want to take over the trouble shooting as Vid is the expert. I always just peruse the tech stuff and Bally in particular now as i just recently have my first one.
Thanks for the advice, but as of right now I have no displays. I can try and throw in my rottendog from my other bally,
Crap! So I swapped my new rottendog board in and the displays, outhole kicker, and pop bumper worked fine. After a short while they stopped again. Then I went to put the Rottendog board back in my other bally, and now I don't get any displays at all. Please tell me I didn't fry my new board.
Quoted from wayout440:I'm thinking you have some cabling issues on both games. At least from the pics in the thread, you have pins pushing out of connectors and burned connector housings. Have you repinned any of the connectors in these games?
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I have not. I saw the one that you pictured, and It does need to be redone. However, on the Fireball, the displays were just fine. The I put the board in the Silverball Mania and everything worked for a couple of minutes and then it stopped. Now I don't get any displays on the Fireball, where the Rottendog originally came from.
yeah that is one thing i do not like to do, swapping boards in a game with issues could very well damage another board. But this Rottendog board came out of a game with no display issue then you put it into a game that has display issues and you put it back in original game and it now also has display issues. Yes it sounds like a strong possibility that you whacked your good board.
oh and PM sent.
Ok, with the help of CNKay, we found that the small fuse on the driver board was blown. This is why the displays are not coming on. Also the most suspect thing for the outhole kicker and pop bumper seems to be the transistors.
Quoted from Ronnie1114:Grounded each of the transistors and both of them caused the coils to fire.
Excellent.
So that test tells you that
1. Your coils are good.
2. Your coils have power.
3. Your wiring and connections from the coil to the driver board are all good.
Quoted from vid1900:Excellent.
So that test tells you that
1. Your coils are good.
2. Your coils have power.
3. Your wiring and connections from the coil to the driver board are all good.
Great! Where to next? Thanks for everyone's help
Quoted from CNKay:Well i think the U1 and U3 ic would be next to replace those are the predrive ic and there really is nothing else.
Ok, that's not something that I can do. Are you able to do it? If not, I have a guy that I have sent boards to before.
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