This is such a great thread. I read thru the info, ordered parts, made some tweaks of my own, and spent around $45 a machine to put in color changing lights. Did all 4 of mine in about 3 hours start to finish. Just couldn’t fathom spending $280 per machine. Thanks again for starting this!

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Just built my 9th set of these. Here is my current lineup.

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For anyone having issues with magnetic tape coming off of the L bracket or it coming off of the side of the pin, I found 2 things that really help. I use a very thin bead of gorilla glue on the L bracket before applying the magnetic tape to the L bracket. I then use painters tape and wrap it around the L bracket at the ends and one in the middle. When the magnetic tape comes off of the L bracket, it is almost always at the end. I let the glue (and magnetic strip with adhesive) dry overnight with tape on them. Once I did that, they stopped coming off. As far as the cabinet goes, I wipe down the area where I am installing the lights with a paper towel with a tiny bit of rubbing alcohol on it. This gets the dirt off and assures a good bond for the cabinet strip of magnetic tape. I install the light with the two magnetic strips connected to make sure the polarity isn’t misaligned (you will only make this mistake once). Once I have installed the cabinet magnetic strip and squeeze it in a bit, I remove the L bracket portion of the lights (always fold down from the center to remove the lights, don’t pull them off by the ends). I let the magnetic strip sit for a good 24 hours without the L bracket attached. Since I started doing this, the lights are rock solid and the magnetic strips don’t peel off the cabinet or the LED L bracket.

For anyone wondering, I just installed homemade lights on my GB Pro about 2 hours ago and I have side art installed. The magnetic tape sticks very well to the side art. The picture below was taken with all the light off in the room.

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Just in case anyone is considering it, I would highly recommend against using glue on the cabinet side magnetic strip. It would most likely rip off paint / wood / side art if you ever needed to take it off.

I have been using a power brick and the aux outlet in the pinball to run my 12v RGBW LED light (remote control version). I like being able to have them operate independent from the machine (cycle colors) even when the pins are off. It’s also piece of mind know the lights won’t put excess load on any of the boards. This only creates an issue if you want to add a second strip tied to flashers or some other event which would require a link to the boards or if you were using the outlet already to power something else. I understand everyone has different approaches but the aux outlet offers me a little piece of mind that I won’t be taxing the system. I bought a special connector for my TNA (cost about $1.25) that allowed me to plug the power brick into the aux outlet. Below is the aux outlet on TNA that I bought the adapter for.

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