(Topic ID: 206424)

Poor man's Stadium lighting

By Fytr

6 years ago


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  • 1,001 posts
  • 197 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 20 days ago by digitaldocc
  • Topic is favorited by 332 Pinsiders

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#196 6 years ago

Sorry i know this has probably been covered before. I looked through the posts here and couldn't find it. I heard i needed a seperate power supply to run my stadium lights in an old williams game ( in my case T2). The problem is the power tap in the machine is always on (has power going to it all the time) whether the machine is turned on or turned off. Is there a way i can rewire the inside of the power tap box to make the power only active when the machine is turned on? So the stadium lights only turn on when the machine is powered on? Does anyone have pics of one rewired for this? I would probably need pics to understand. Thanks so much

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#198 6 years ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Yikes either your camera is WAY off or you plugged into the 220v circuit! Turn it down man or your likely to get sunburn! My guess is its the camera setting just giving you a hard time.

The adapter i used is a 12v 3 amp. The adapter should lower the current to that right? Its also UV lights too, i notice that the UV lights always look like that in pics.

#200 6 years ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

OK, I see the problem. You purchased Pin Stadium lights and your posting for support in the Non pin stadium lights forum. Go to the Pin Stadium lights thread and Scott will jump all over this ASAP. Good Luck

No they are not pinstadiums. They are from steve at pinball refinery. He directed me here. Said he read somewhere in this thread someone posted how to rewire the power box. Sorry for the confusion.

#202 6 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Yes.

Here is one, it would be best for you to take a pic of your machine as they changed things over the years. Remember to unplug the machine first before unscrewing the power box. On my pic you would disconnect wire #1 at the filter and reconnect it at the switch #2.

Thank you soooo much! Mines a euro conversion so I'll take a pic as i suspect it is different. Just in the middle of a LOTR repair now.

#204 6 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Yes.

Here is one, it would be best for you to take a pic of your machine as they changed things over the years. Remember to unplug the machine first before unscrewing the power box. On my pic you would disconnect wire #1 at the filter and reconnect it at the switch #2.

Sorry for the late reply, finally finished my LOTR repair. Here are pics of the euro service outlet. It has already been converted to USA power. I just want it to turn on and off with the power switch instead of the service outlet being on all the time.

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#207 6 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

So remove the black wire that comes from the service outlet off of the fuse holder. Then connect the black wire from the service outlet to the black wire on the switch that is leaving the metal power box. If it was me I would cut off the pink crimp connector that is on the black wire and then twist both black wires together and then solder them to the switch. Done, go drink a beer.

Ok just so i understand. You're saying bypass the fuse completely and unsolder both bkack wires attached to the fuse and solder them directly to the switch?

#209 6 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

No just move the black wire from the service outlet. Leave the other black wire on the fuse. Done as I said the service outlet will now be on the fuse.

Sorry I'm a noob when it comes to wiring. I tried every variation of what i thought you were saying and none of them work. This is the last thing i tried.

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#211 6 years ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

How do you attach the led-rails to the inner sides of the pinball machine? Magnetic tape or velco? Do you use it for the whole length of the rail or do you put it in patches, as I did with velcro in the picture above?

Magnetic strips with double sided tape. The whole length of the rail

#212 6 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

No just move the black wire from the service outlet. Leave the other black wire on the fuse. Done as I said the service outlet will now be on the fuse.

When you say service outlet you mean the plug receptacle right?

#214 6 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Yep.
In your last pic it looks like you added on a piece of black wire, correct! That splice needs to be insulated with a piece of heat shrink tubing or it will spark if it touches anything metal.

And lastly you connected the service outlet black wire to the input of the switch, you need to connect it to the output of the switch. This is the pink connector on the right.

Ah ok! Man I'm so dumb. I get it now. Tha k you so much!

#215 6 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Yep.
In your last pic it looks like you added on a piece of black wire, correct! That splice needs to be insulated with a piece of heat shrink tubing or it will spark if it touches anything metal.

And lastly you connected the service outlet black wire to the input of the switch, you need to connect it to the output of the switch. This is the pink connector on the right.

Boom! Did what you instructed and it works perfect now! Thanks grumpy.

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#225 6 years ago
Quoted from JodyG:

Finished up Escape From the Lost World tonight. It's a whole new game now!

Wow what a difference! None of mine made that much of a difference, except Maybe T2. Great job! What LED strips did you use? I wish my LOTR turned out like that. Its still kind of dark even after the strios installed and extra spot lights around the playfield.

#226 6 years ago
Quoted from epeabs:

I didn't like the idea of having to remove the lighting every time I wanted to raise the playfield. My option was to use 57/64" x 9/16" aluminum "U" channel and 3M "permanent" double sided tape and attach it to the top of my playfield outside rails. I wired my 5V LED strips into the GI lighting under the playfield. The channels don't mount as high as the ones on the side of the cabinet, but they stay on the rails all the time and don't interfere when raising the playfield.

Thats a fantastic idea. Won't work for every game but for the ones it does work for, fantastic!

#238 6 years ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

What's the conflict of he was already producing them? They have a patent on something he wasn't previously producing?
Pinstadiums are grossly overpriced (IMO). Waiting for the definitive guide to come out of this thread or a reasonably priced competitor to emerge.

The refinery was charging $40 a complete set.

2 years later
#717 4 years ago

I haven't been on pinside in a long time and there is way too many Post in this thread to read them all, LOL. I have the no name as we will call them Stadium lights in my games I bought one of them that turns all the Stadium lights on and off with all the game lighting so everything goes together via a relay. I bought another four without that relay. I now regret it because it looks way better to have the stadium lights turn on and off with all the other game lighting. My question is can someone point me in the direction of a good relay to buy to do this, and a quick tutorial on how to do it?

#720 4 years ago
Quoted from Kawydud:

What games do you have the lighting installed on? And what voltage leds are you using?

I have the one that already has the relay installed in my Ironman ve. I also have them in X-Men Lord of the Rings and Terminator 2. Terminator 2 it is hooked up to the main power supply where the plug receptacle is. Into the 12 volt. On Lord of the Rings and X-Men it is hooked up to where you hook up all the mods for power. That little extra power cord thingy on the side. Hope that makes sense?

#722 4 years ago
Quoted from Kawydud:

I bought a couple of these to try in my Iron Maiden, triggered by the GI. I will let you know how they work.
amazon.com link »

Thank you so much! Let me know how to wire them to, LOL

2 weeks later
#730 3 years ago
Quoted from Kawydud:

I bought a couple of these to try in my Iron Maiden, triggered by the GI. I will let you know how they work.
amazon.com link »

Did these ever come in? And can you give a quick tutorial on install?

#732 3 years ago
Quoted from Kawydud:

They did come in, I haven't put them on Iron Maiden yet, tried them on Sorcerer, but Sorcerer is AC voltage. They worked ok, but coil was buzzing because of the ac current. I will try to get a set installed on Iron Maiden this weekend hopefully. They are pretty straight forward to connect.

Thank you! I need to use them so all of my pin Stadium lights turn on and off with all the other GI lights on the game. Is that what you will be doing with them? Would you be able to do a quick tutorial for me? Because I don't know electrical stuff too well

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