I made two kits for Baywatch and Big Hurt which both just needed well lit, even lighting, across the playfield. I do own a Pin Stadium kit too, but it's overkill and expensive for each pin, and it's an easy & cheap DIY mod that yields excellent results. For these two games I just used a white LED strip since I knew I only wanted white - no need for a remote for changing colors, etc. The next kit I make will use an RGB LED with remote because it will replace the Pin Stadium installed in Mustang. White LEDs just make the lighting in Mustang too bright and sterile - like walking into a 7-11. For Mustang I found dialing down the white and brightness and adding a tinge of yellow to get a warm feel.

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On Big Hurt I used 1/2" angle strips I think. Baywatch has 3/4" strips just because I happened to have them. I use a roll of $5 magnetic tape which works for 3 games. Strips on the cabinet sides and on the angles and the click right in place and simple to remove.

I use RGB for Mustang just because the warm white is too harsh on Mustang's playfield colors. So I dialed down the whiteness and brightness and added a slight bit of yellow to achieve a nice warm white light that makes the playfield colors look super.

I have mirrors blades on all my games I have the lighting installed on and have no problem with clearing the magnetic tape strips. Baywatch is a very tight game and even with mirrors and tape I can lift the PF. Just be careful when starting to clear the edge of each tape strip.

Thanks, the box said warm whites.

I use the service outlet for my DIY strips on Baywatch and since my Big Hurt does not have an outlet, the cord is run out the back of the cabinet and plugged into a power strip. I power my games on/off with two strips so the lighting also turns on/off with the games. Easy solution.

Thanks for the heads up, just bought two. Can't beat $10 and it includes a power supply. These are the exact LEDs I used for my kits and I paid $20 each which was still a good deal.

I buy pvc angle strips from Amazon.

I used gray PVC angle strips. The gray looks fine to me, but easy enough to spray the top side black if you prefer.

https://www.amazon.com/Polyvinyl-Chloride-Squared-Corners-Thickness/dp/B00CPRF3WG/ref=sr_1_16

Always save "wall wart" power supplies from old appliances and electronics. I have a box full of power supplies and use them for my LED kits.

Got some new games in that needed lighting. Jurassic needs an LED kit with a remote so I can dim the brightness, so that kit will be swapped into Slugfest when I get the kit.

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Jurassic Park and NBA Fastbreak done today with dimmer warm white LEDs than I've tried before and the result is perfect for both games. The playfield on NBA just pops now and you're easily able to track the balls, make shots, see the ball in the 4 shot holes, etc. The previous lights I tried in JP were either WAY too bright or cold white LEDs which didn't look good.

Of course the pics appear much brighter than in person. It's a nice warm look.

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I keep the kits simple and plug each strip into a 12v wall adapter. The two adapters are plugged into a short extension cord which is plugged into the service outlet.

I power my games on and off with power strips so the lights turn on and off with the games.

I bought a bag of 12v power supplies from a local indoor flea market for $1 each. I now use led strips that cost $5.99 each and gets me 2 sets of kits.

I don't want any interaction with GI turning on and off, just wanted a well lit playfield to enjoy playing more. I have an actual Pinstadium kit and prefer my basic kits since they serve my needs best. I keep the flashing LEDs disconnected on Pinstadium because that's also too much for me.

The ones I have vary from 1000 to 2000. The power supplies I received with a set of LEDs were 2000, so I just stick at 1000-2000.

The strips I used have a 12v adapter plug on one end and wire leads on the other. The strips get cut in half and I used 12 adapters for the side with the plugs and on the side with the wire leads I also use 12 adapters, but cut the plug and then solder the wire leads to the adapter wire. In both cases the 12 adapters are plugged into the service outlet. I've never tried to solder to the gold pads on the LEDs, but a few sets I bought came with quick connect for that purpose, but also never tried those either.

Slugfest with stadium lighting. Playfield is very dim normally, now it's nice and bright.

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Cheap cool white LED strips, each one plugged into a 12v wall wart. Both 12v power supplies are plugged into an extension cord that runs to the service outlet. I used PVC angle strips with magnetic tape on them and the cabinet sides.

Amazon. But I actually prefer using aluminum angle strips from Home Depot and spray painting them black. Cheaper than the PVC too.

Good idea. I'll check it out maybe later today because I need more strips for the rest of my kits.

Sure, any angle strip will work and remember that the only visible part of the strip is the top edge. On some of my games the silver aluminum looks nice blended in with stainless steel siderails. On other games with black siderails then I paint the aluminum strips silver. If you can find black angle strips with a 1/4" to 5/8" edge than that saves you some spray painting.

I bought one roll of magnet tape that didn't have as sticky a backing as other rolls I used. So now I superglue the magnet strip to the channel and I'll use a little Elmer's white glue on the magnet strips on the sidewalls.

The magnet tape I bought on amazon seems to work fine. I got the same tape from Home Depot that you did and had the same results with adhesion. But $1 package of super glue from the Dollar Store fixes that.

I play mostly in the dark or dim lighting since I don't play during the daytime.

Shadow looks awesome with bright warm white LEDs. Illuminates the battlefield nicely, you can see the ball get throw behind the wall, track the ball anywhere and the artwork on the playfield now stands out.

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For my last 4 games I've had come thru my gameroom, I've used this simple and cheap solution for lighting.

$4.88 each @ Walmart, Monster makes white LED strips, USB powered and includes a remote to change 4 different shades of white (cool, day, warm, ice) and the brightness. I have lots of USB wall adapters, so I get one for each strip and plug them into a 4' extension cord plugged into the service outlet. I turn my games on/off with a powerstrip, so the lights turn on and off with my games.

I spray paint the Home Depot metal angle strips black and use magnet tape to secure the angle strips to the cabinet. I use a little superglue on the back of the LED strips to be make sure the LED strips don't ever lift.

Cheapest, easiest, basic lighting solution I've made yet. I don't want my lights to turn on/off with the GI and I only want shades of white to choose from. Just plug and play into the service outlet. My Big Hurt game does not have a service outlet, so the extension cord runs out the rear of the cabinet into the power strip. So that's an easy workaround if your game lacks a service outlet.

Lighting I made tonight for Maverick.

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On my last 4 or 5 kits, I've used $4.88 Monster USB LED strips from Walmart (one per side). These have 4 white choices (no colors which I don't want anyway) and brightness controls on the remote and I like the day/warm setting the best. But on sci-fi games like SST, the cooler settings looked great. With 4 white temperatures to choose from, these are a great choice for any game.

I've never been happy with the whites available on the colored LED strips and always spend time tweaking by adding yellow to get the warmness I want.

Yup, these are the ones.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Monster-Inc-Led-Light-Strip-Wht/155572606

What I love about these is I use the service outlet since I power my pins off/on with a master switch. I don't care to tie into the GI. So I run a 4' extension cord from the service outlet to the rear of the cabinet. The USB power supplies plug into that and the USB cables to the strips. These work so great with the whites...I just bought them on a lark when I saw them and figured I'd test them out.

Strip is cuttable and that's what I do to make it the length of the rail. No power supply. But since I save everything, I have a box full of them I use.

On my last 5 or 6 kits I've made for my games, I used Monster LED light strips for $4.99 each at Walmart (two needed, one for each side). No color (I don't want colors), a remote with just 4 different shades of white and brightness controls. Bright, sun, daylight and something else. I just want my playfield evenly lit in white and do not want them turning off/on with the GI. One of the white colors works for every game - sci-fi themes, use cool white; most other games I prefer the sun/warm white.

Velcro strips or pieces, will also work in lieu of magnet tape, and will never let the rails fall off. Some magnet tape is rated stronger lbs than others and the weaker tape has had issue falling off on mine. Pretty sure the Amazon taped worked out well for me and it was the Home Depot tape I bought once that was weaker. I was out of magnet tape once and had velcro strips handy, tried them out and kept them on that game.

I used that Met kit on my Tales From the Crypt, except mounted them as stadium style lights. The UV lighting worked great on those Metallica sideblades that I also installed because it fit TFTC perfectly. Plus the TFTC playfield has UV reactive green that really pops with those UV strips.

That was 5 years ago. Maybe I was one of the first to come up with a stadium style light mounted along the cabinet? Just out of necessity because the Met strip mounting spots of course didn't align with anything on TFTC.