Quoted from GRUMPY:

I might try the 30 per so that a dimmer wont be needed.

Quoted from flynnibus:

Why the aversion to the light controller?

Quoted from HemiOrange09:

I'm offering them for the guys who just want to plug them using my pictured directions and not to make them.

Quoted from newy16216:

12v tapped into power board vs 6.3 tapped into gi, doing my head in which way to go , what does everyone think, also just going with white , another question cool or warm white ,
Cheers

Quoted from HemiOrange09:

If anyone is interested in a some nice enclosure dimmer controller for the "do it your self lighting rails"... I have a surplus of them that I am selling and they work perfect for this application. I have them in stock, ready to go for only $10.00 with free shipping inside the USA...
Here is a link to my website to order them: https://www.mipinballrefinery.com/store-to-order-upgrades#!/Dimmer-Controller-for-RGB-strips/p/102666852/category=26841052
Thanks everyone,
Steve
MI Pinball Refinery

Quoted from JodyG:

Finished up Escape From the Lost World tonight. It's a whole new game now!

Quoted from PoMC:

keep the kits simple and plug each strip into a 12v wall adapter. The two adapters are plugged into a short extension cord which is plugged into the service outlet.

Quoted from Chalkey:

The pinball refinery thread is closed with no explanation, I was hoping to check it out vs. doing my own. End of run or some other reason?

Quoted from Chalkey:

What's the conflict of he was already producing them? They have a patent on something he wasn't previously producing?
Pinstadiums are grossly overpriced (IMO). Waiting for the definitive guide to come out of this thread or a reasonably priced competitor to emerge.

Quoted from QuarterGrabber:

The refinery was charging $40 a complete set.

Quoted from PoMC:

The ones I have vary from 1000 to 2000. The power supplies I received with a set of LEDs were 2000, so I just stick at 1000-2000.

Quoted from JodyG:

I use these plugs soldered directly to the LED pads for basic white lighting. I don't really care for all the added effects of Pinstadium lighting, but I have half a notion to do a full DIY on how to replicate them for a fraction of the price now.

Quoted from crlush:

They look like they will brighten the mood.

Quoted from flynnibus:

nice.. can you provide a link to the type of plugs you've used?
The clamp on LED strip type I find to be fickle.. I'd hate it in a pinball cabinet where you'd be moving them around a lot.

Quoted from JodyG:

They are actually pointing outward instead of down, and the plugs go to the back of the machine.

Quoted from PoMC:

Sure, any angle strip will work and remember that the only visible part of the strip is the top edge. On some of my games the silver aluminum looks nice blended in with stainless steel siderails. On other games with black siderails then I paint the aluminum strips silver. If you can find black angle strips with a 1/4" to 5/8" edge than that saves you some spray painting.

Quoted from Yelobird:

Most magnet tape strips are Adhesive backed. Hard to find an aluminum or plastic magnet. lol

Quoted from darcangeloel:

Oh good to know. I wonder if comet could sell me the led strips in the length I need.

Quoted from darcangeloel:

So I'm running the 5v led strips now but they have a odd strobe to them and I can only see it when the ball is in play. It's playable but kind of like slow motion. Odd how it looks and hard for me to describe. Comet said right now they don't have any strips that big that are rectified. I guess I could try something like this ebay.com link within the circuit and see if it helps. I just worry about one of those caps discharging and back feeding the transistor/ board powering the circut. I would imagine the results to be quite bad. However if I could get that to safely work ir think it would be another decent option.
Here are some before and after pics btw. It os crazy how well the back of the game is now lit.

Quoted from darcangeloel:

As a follow up I installed one of these and the issue is 100% resolved. amazon.com link »
So the leds strips are tied directly into the GI and with the above tiny and cheap board no more flickering.

Quoted from Nepi23:

If the clearance between cabinet and playfield is tight and one has put velcro/magnet tape on the cabinet sides, the PU assembly blades may help in rising the playfield without damaging the velcro/magnet tape: https://pu-parts.com/assembly-blades
I have learned to use them and they are great in protecting the cabinet.

Quoted from fanuminski:

got a link to them?

Quoted from JodyG:

Did another install on a Waterworld tonight. In this instance, the total change is not huge, but the sides of the playfield against the cabinet and the back of the playfield under the backbox overhang really popped out. This will allow me to add some blue GI lights without making the overall lighting look clown pukey.
[quoted image]

Quoted from fanuminski:

Probably pointed our before - but these cabinet blade protectors really help in raising PF's up
to protect your side/decals/tape
https://www.pinballlife.com/interior-cabinet-protector-blade-set.html

Quoted from Rock914:

Here is a picture of my Game On setup.
Since you have not responded to your email or PM I guess I will address this here.
Looks like you were if fact using something very similar 9 months ago, so if you want credit here it is. Great way to supply power to your mod without using the machines boards, genius! That is exactly why I created this system to power mods as well as provide interactive features. I looked at your mods yesterday and you supply nothing that does this so I am not sure what the issue is. I did not copy what you were using even though we may be using the same thing. You or your mod were not even a thought in my head so I am not sure why I would have contacted you about it. I like your mods very much and from what I have seen you do nice work.
You did graciously lend me your game to put in Pinstadiums booth at Pintastic, thank you. I wish I understood what you were doing then. I think we could have worked together on this. But you know shows we were both very busy with our own booths and I had a rough time looking after Pinstadiums booth as well. Feel free to email me if you would like to discuss further.
Thanks for all the PM’s guys. To answer some questions. No, I will not build a product similar to Pinstadiums for you. I provide a GI relay that was asked for in this thread. If you want Pinstadiums buy the real deal. I worked with Scott a lot on them before they came to market, they are a fantastic product. If you are making them yourself and need a GI relay and power, I have that.
Regards
Chris
https://www.rockcustompinball.com
[quoted image]

Quoted from Litedpinballmods:

And Paul, I shipped you one of these relays about 4 months ago.

Quoted from Litedpinballmods:

it was with the hinge for Batman Forever. Did you ever get the Batman Forever hinge?

Quoted from Langless28:

Just finished this set for my party zone. It’s plenty bright but the game has a feature you never see. Amazing fluorescent paint scheme!
The game has a single GI string that’s only red lights. You can’t tell with all other strings on but when they are turned off, it’s really cool. I took it 1 step further and used a 6vac relay NC on a normal GI string so when only the red string is on, so is my uv rail lights. Pretty pleased as it’s a cool effect. Sorry for crappy playing and glass glare. Also sorry, my kids watching Brave in the background.
[quoted image]

Quoted from Nepi23:

Hi!
I am using an external power source to power up my "poor man stadium lights". The power source is connected to a power outlet on the wall. On the outlet I have a remote control unit socket - I mean, I can turn power on/off to the socket. However, even though I would have switched the power off, there is still small current going to the led-bars. I notice it e.g. by pressing the lights with my fingers, usually some lights turn on then and they seem to give tiny electrical shocks as well.
This has resulted into me plugging the power sources off completely from the wall as I do not like the idea of the led-bars having power all the time and thinking that perhaps it would be a fire hazard. Its annoying to having to plug them in again, when playing a game.
Its strange that the remote controllable socket does not stop the power going to the led-bars completely.
Any tips on how to avoid this? Someone told me to try to turn the socket 180 degrees, but it did not help.
Thanks for any help!

Quoted from Nepi23:

Hi!
I am using an external power source to power up my "poor man stadium lights". The power source is connected to a power outlet on the wall. On the outlet I have a remote control unit socket - I mean, I can turn power on/off to the socket. However, even though I would have switched the power off, there is still small current going to the led-bars. I notice it e.g. by pressing the lights with my fingers, usually some lights turn on then and they seem to give tiny electrical shocks as well.
This has resulted into me plugging the power sources off completely from the wall as I do not like the idea of the led-bars having power all the time and thinking that perhaps it would be a fire hazard. Its annoying to having to plug them in again, when playing a game.
Its strange that the remote controllable socket does not stop the power going to the led-bars completely.
Any tips on how to avoid this? Someone told me to try to turn the socket 180 degrees, but it did not help.
Thanks for any help!

Quoted from PoMC:

Lighting I made tonight for Maverick.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from PoMC:

On my last 4 or 5 kits, I've used $4.88 Monster USB LED strips from Walmart (one per side). These have 4 white choices (no colors which I don't want anyway) and brightness controls on the remote and I like the day/warm setting the best. But on sci-fi games like SST, the cooler settings looked great. With 4 white temperatures to choose from, these are a great choice for any game.
I've never been happy with the whites available on the colored LED strips and always spend time tweaking by adding yellow to get the warmness I want.

Quoted from PoMC:

Yup, these are the ones.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Monster-Inc-Led-Light-Strip-Wht/155572606

Quoted from Daditude:

I would love to add lighting to the back of my jurassic park, but im not sure where?
I have LED strips with alligator clips.

Quoted from PoMC:

Strip is cuttable and that's what I do to make it the length of the rail. No power supply. But since I save everything, I have a box full of them I use.

Quoted from newovad:

Joined the club over the weekend. Thanks for all of the awesome build tips. I made a color set and a warm white set. I really like some of the colors on JP as it really makes some of the artwork more interesting. Set up the whites today. Really makes every dirt spot on the glass show up
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from newovad:

Got the color set wired up and put in. Took these with the machine off.
[quoted image]

Quoted from jimjam:

I have an idea to use a frosted acrylic art blade using leds inside the cabinet to transfer light to the sides, hopefully enough to brighten up the playfield.
Do you guys think it is possible to make an art blade that uses the same principle as those stupid laser engraved plastics toppers to light up the side of the cabinet?

Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:

If you want to take your DIY lighting to the next level you can always put DIY LED tape strips around your whole room![quoted image]

Quoted from Nepi23:

Hi!
Need some help: I've been using ca. 5 x one-inch long velcro tape pieces to attach the stadium lightning bar to the cabinet. However, the leds strips I am using are getting somewhat hot when playing and I notice that the velcro-tape glue seems to start melting a bit in such manner that I have to adjust the lightning bars quite often. I have also tried magnetic tape instead of velcro, but with those it seems that the magnetic strips seems to attach to each other too well, while the magnetic tape attached to the bar seemed to cave in.
What kind of velcro tapes are you using - I would prefer using velcro instead of the magnetic tape, but I would just need to get the velcro stick to the bar. Is there some holy grail of a velcro tape, whose glue can hold up to heat?
Thanks for any tips!