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Quoted from Lermods:id be a little careful running 6-8 feet of led strips off the GI unless you can calculate the load you are putting on that circuit. you can grab constant 5v at the coindoor on stern games, same place you get 12v and that would work, but they would not be interactive with the game.
Where on the coin door do you pull from? Does this work for DE/Sega games?
5 months later
Is there a way to have these be color changing depending on a flasher? I.e., it would be mainly associated with the GI and white, but when an object is hit (or something of that nature) that triggers a certain flasher, maybe these flash another color. I've looked up a Pinduino, but can't find how to use, or even where to purchase. Is it just an Arduino variant? I was trying to figure out if there was a way to handle this through relays, but figured I would ask here first.
Quoted from GRUMPY:Yes.
You would need to buy RGBW or RGBWW 12 volt led strips.
Not needed for what you asked for.
To be exact I would need to know what game as there can be small differences, but the same principles will apply to most machines. What you need to decide first is when the GI is off, do you still want the colored strips to activate or not. For an example lets say you do want flashing colors when the GI is dark so you need to connect the 12 volt power wire on the led strip to a constant 12 volt source. Then you need to ground the white or warm white led wire on the strip thru a relay which needs to be activated by the GI lights. Then you need to connect the red, green and blue led wires to the flasher transistors of your preference. No relay is needed for the colors as the transistor will turn them on and off. If you tell me what machine you want to add this to I can give better details.
ebay.com link » Supernight 5m 5050 Smd Rgbw Rgbww 300leds Led Strip Light Remote Dc12v Power
Awesome, it would be interesting to know how to do this with Baywatch or WWF Royal Rumble.
4 months later
Quoted from Phantasize:Here is what ended up working for me on my WPC machine for GI control of the LED's. Using the optocoupler completely separates the GI side from the LED side. I just used some components i already had lying around, but any FET transistor should do as long as it is wired correctly. The same goes for the optocoupler.
I have the LED+ and LED- attached to the Bluetooth LED controller, and it works like a charm.
Furthermore i have a UV LED strip attached in the same L-channel mold that is attached to 4 different flashers (remember diodes if you are doing this!!). So i now have controllable RGBW light with GI on/off effect facing out towards the playfield, and UV flasher light facing downwards.[quoted image]
This is great. For us that can't read electrical symbols, can someone change to show pictures? 
7 months later
Quoted from dudah:My second go at these tonight...
About one hour (or podcast).
Parts:
Magnets $5 ebay.com link » N35 1 100pcs Neodymium Disc Magnet 10mm X 1mm Super Strong Rare Earth Magnets
Remote $2 ebay.com link » 12v Rf Wireless Remote Switch Controller Dimmer For Mini Led Strip Light New
Power supply $8 ebay.com link » Universal 12v 36 600w 3 5 10 20 50a Switching Power Supply Driver For Led Strip
Connectors $5 ebay.com link » 10cm Jst Plug 2pin Connector Cable Wire Female Male Rc Lipo Battery 10sets
LED cable from another project ebay.com link » 2 Pin Extension Cable Connector Wire Cord For Single Led Strip Light 3528 5050
Aluminum channel from Home Depot was like $8
White LED strip had from another project
Some heatshrink to make it all neat
Hot glue gun
Dedicated 12V switching power supply this time.
The previous owner had a arcade power supply 5V hack, I used that existing wiring that was nicely tapped into the switched line voltage.
Parts:
[quoted image]
Cut the wire - I did 6 ft for the sides, 12 ft for the trough. Could've gotten away with a foot or two less on the sides but whatever
Strip all the wire and tin it
Solder on the connectors (don't forget heat shrink!)
Test!
[quoted image]
I had already pre-cut and painted the aluminum channel
Swap with alcohol the inside of the channel and where you're going to mount the magnets
Apply the LED strips
[quoted image]
Break up the magnets into 6 pairs
Hot glue a pair of magnets on the ends and middle of each strip
Line up the strip on the side of the cabinet
Put a dab of glue on one pair of magnets and apply it to the cabinet
Line it up and do the rest one at a time
Connect it all and enjoy!
[quoted image][quoted image]
This is great. I haven't had a chance to create one of these yet, but was hoping for a summary of the thread. Thanks for the tutorial.
2 months later
4 months later
It was mentioned earlier, but not sure if there has been any attempt. Has anyone tried to put the led strips directly on the glass? I'm thinking you could use electric tape first to give a better look from the top side, then place the led strips on that. I understand there would need to be a quick connect at the coin door so that the glass could still easily be removed, but wasn't sure if anyone had tried this yet.
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:Yes, I have. magnetic connectors, and special 90 degree mini strips....works amazing!
Do you have any images? Apologies if I missed a post.
1 year later
Can I get a little help here? It doesn’t seem like the relay is doing anything. I’ve tried 3 of them and all the same. If I connect the black RGB line to the in and out sides of the relay, the LEDs power on. Triggering it with a 5V wall wart does nothing. The LEDS stay on as of there is no relay there at all.
In one photo I show it not being triggered and LEDs on.
Second photo shows it being triggered by a 5V wall wart. Nothing happens. LEDs stay on.
Any help?
378BDB56-DF97-4FA7-97E2-D97C7D6AA6FC (resized).jpeg3875C9EE-8A25-4160-9671-ECE4DACE8311 (resized).jpegQuoted from AUKraut:Several things: the relay needs a + and - wire as input, with a + and - as an output. You are hooking it up to a black - wire on the 4 pin rgb strip and nothing else. You really don't want to use a 4 pin RGB with the relay, all you will dim is either R, G, or B if you hook up 2 wires. You only have 1 wire hooked up, black, which is just being passed thru and the trigger signal is ignored. It's as if the module wasn't installed at all.
You can use the relay to control the White on a RGBW on 5 wire LED strip (post 733), or you can use the relay to control a plain 2 wire LED strip (post 751).
Gotcha. Thanks. I was hoping for a way to have a relay just turn on and off with the GI signal. Is there another type of relay that will work with the 4 pin RGB strip in this way?
Quoted from AUKraut:You could try a trigger module per color (black/blue, black/red, black/green), however you'd have to split the black 3 ways, and have to split the GI trigger 3 ways. I'd test it on a bench first before you put it in a pin....
Yeah. That sounds like more effort than I want to tackle.
I do have some of these from another project, would they work you think?
F92C7AF0-F114-436A-A7A2-10B2E428D806 (resized).pngFollow-up. I used the relay mentioned in the previous post and it’s working well. I tied the DC+ and DC- to power the relay into a GI light and used a diode to bridge between the trigger and DC- (essentially sharing DC- to make a low voltage trigger so that the relay is on anytime the GI lights are on). I then split the black wire of the RGB and have one side going to the common leg and the other to the normally open. Now when the GI is on, it turns the relay on, and closes the switch for the RGB power.
Thanks all for the ideas and guidance in this thread.
image (resized).jpgHey all. Curious. I’m working at building another set and decided to go the RGBW 5 pin route this time. In testing the strip, I can’t get both the RGB and the W LEDs to come on at the same time. It’s either the RGBs or the Ws. The pictures in the instructions clearly show them both on and I’ve seen others have it that way as well. What am I missing here?
Edit: Sorry the pictures are a little out of order, but what they show is turning on the RGB LEDs and then the W LEDs. They don't come on at the same time.
69BE3E92-9C85-42D2-BCDC-F106A7862A44 (resized).pngBE7D49E4-70D0-4824-AB85-9F6BAD2EA8FD (resized).jpegD63048E7-BE76-474D-9941-1BD017BEE7A3 (resized).jpegE41EFB37-CB17-4C50-82ED-3028B6C7541D (resized).png
Quoted from AUKraut:If you are using the app you have to set it for RGB&W instead of RGBW:
Press and hold the device in the app menu. Select change device type. Choose RGB&W
That’s why I love Pinside. Appreciate the help!
1 week later
Hey all. Back with another question. Any thoughts on why this is happening in my AFMr?
Setup:
MOSFET is triggered by being connected to GI light. Power for LED strip goes: wall wart - LED controller - MOSFET - splitter - LED strips.
When the game is off (by unplugging game so no power available - LED strips are plugged into outlet separate from game):
Transistor board LED is dimly lit as if it is barely being triggered and white LEDs are barely on. They should be off in this state and not sure why the MOSFET is showing that it is barely being triggered. There is no power at the GI light socket.
When game is on:
All works as it should. MOSFET is showing being triggered with a bright LED and strips are fully lit.
Thoughts?
0EDFD52A-C67A-4F6D-B50B-D30AAAAC338A (resized).jpeg490DC619-3150-47C3-A123-441E7E56BE95 (resized).jpeg5A5CA350-8EEA-44E1-B078-4B0CEC06E796 (resized).jpeg7D5D4473-312D-4030-BBA8-06D0B71AB778 (resized).jpeg81BDCF69-51DC-4157-A344-CE53E60B78F4 (resized).jpeg 1 month later
Quoted from Pinash:Does anyone run these on a Stern TMNT? The factory gi has a subtle flicker when dimming, and it seems to be amplified on the DIY stadium lighting. I'm hoping to come up with a way to minimize the flicker (when in the "dim" state), because they are otherwise awesome. It's certainly a fun/easy project to jump into.
You could try a relay like I show in post 861.
Quoted from Pinash:Does that work with him dimming? Or is it just on off?
It wouldn’t change how the LEDs work through the app, so they could still be dimmed. However the power to the LEDs would be on/off.
1 year later
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