1/2" aluminum angle stock from Lowes... the 3' pieces are usually enough. >$3 each

5v warm white LED strips (300 count/3528) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G572BEO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
Tap into Plug 117 pins 3 and 4 on WCS94. This will do 2 sets if you are using 3' rails.

https://www.amazon.com/DCFun-Conductor-Connector-Adapter-10-Pair/dp/B06XSBBMMC/ref=sr_1_cc_1
I use these plugs to make the lights removable easily. Cut them down and solder them to each strip, and solder another one in where you tap into the power source so you can still take the backbox off cleanly if needed.
Done.

I don't need color changing clown puke or bluetooth control, and the standard light intensity looks just right.

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I am not happy with the current magnetic strip setup I am using...so I am looking at a new solution. Nudging has knocked them off already.

I bought some of these 1/2" round x 1/16" thick rare earth magnets on ebay. I will epoxy one on each end of the aluminum angle, then staple a small piece of skid banding (comes black already) to the side of the cab. This will make the gap roughly 3/32" and have plenty of holding power.

Magnets: ebay.com link: itm

Finished up Escape From the Lost World tonight. It's a whole new game now!

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Torpedo alley isn't as obvious since it has decent GI, and the playfield is shallow. However, it stops the LED GI from giving you seizures when you sink the fleet. Saves you from buying a $100 LED smoother for Data East machines also.

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Last one for tonight... Motordome. Crappy GI just like my other 6803, Escape From the Lost World. This has a fairly deep playfield, and the ramps light up nicely. Very noticeable improvement.

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https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01G572BEO/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp

This is what I use. Note: you'll need to tap into 5v and not 12v. You'll will get 5, 36" strips out of each roll. So 2 rolls will do 5 machines.

I use these plugs soldered directly to the LED pads for basic white lighting. I don't really care for all the added effects of Pinstadium lighting, but I have half a notion to do a full DIY on how to replicate them for a fraction of the price now.

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They are actually pointing outward instead of down, and the plugs go to the back of the machine.

Drop ceiling strip is probably too wide. You are looking for the 1/2" x 1/2" Aluminum angle strips in the hardware-raw material section. They are $2.18 at my location for a 3' piece, or you can get an 8' piece for about $5.50.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Steelworks-3-ft-x-1-2-in-Aluminum-Solid-Angle/3053617

You should be able to use something like this and not have to use pinduino.

https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Controller-JACKYLED-Multicolor-Included/dp/B074Z3SPX4

I am epoxying 1/2" thin rare earth magnets to the rails, and stapling a small piece of pallet banding (already black) to the cabinet for them to stick to. They are plenty strong, and half the thickness of magnetic tape.

My room is mostly dark, so there is no glare on the glass. Also have black ceilings for the same reason. I personally don't care for my game room feeling as bright as a TV studio. If you have strong ambient lighting, you probably wouldn't need anything. Stadium lights also help with old Data East games in dark rooms since LED GI on them nearly gives you seizures. $15 in material is a lot cheaper than one of those $100 GI smoother boards.

Picked up a Hollywood Heat and gave it the cheap ass stadium light treatment. Really changes the game!

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I have found that for my System 80B games, there is literally no clearance between the playfield and the cabinet. Shocking such a "crappy" manufacturer has such close tolerances? Anyway, I am going to make a jig to spot face the cabinet to accept my 1/2" round by 1/16" thick rare earth magnets from eBay (50 pcs/$10 shipped), and the epoxy those magnets flush inside the cabinet. Then epoxy some .020" thick metal banding you see used on skids to the back of my aluminum light channels. This should make a super clean, tight fit. There will only be a .020 gap between the cabinet and light rails. So basically the same thing you are suggesting, but flipped.

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I did my first conversion using flush mount magnets imbedded in the cabinet... Works great, and does not affect playfield removal!

I used a 1/2 center cutting 2-flute endmill with a shaft collar attached to it so I could cut to the perfect depth. I press fit a hardened drill bushing into a block of steel to act as a guide and a stop for the endmill. Then, just glue the magnets in flush with 5 minute epoxy, glue the strapping to your light strips, and install. I'll be doing this to all of my machines, and getting rid of the black magnets. The gap between the light strip and the cabinet is almost zero.

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The collar on the drill bit helps you only drill what's needed I used a single 1/2" diameter by 1/16" thick rare earth magnet on each end of the angle aluminum.

I get 1/2 angle at Lowe's for about $4 each for 3' pieces, then spray them satin black.

Did another install on a Waterworld tonight. In this instance, the total change is not huge, but the sides of the playfield against the cabinet and the back of the playfield under the backbox overhang really popped out. This will allow me to add some blue GI lights without making the overall lighting look clown pukey.

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Also note that there are no unsightly gaps between the light rail and the cabinet when you do the flush mount magnet method of install.

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Here are the lights I use: https://www.amazon.com/Strip-Computer-Backlighting-Non-waterproof-2800-3200K/dp/B01G572BEO/ref=redir_mobile_desktop/144-2663996-4030856

I usually tap into the main constant 5V, but this time I tapped into playfield GI. I am torn on whether I like this, because there are times when all the PF lights are off and you have to shoot the ball.

Installation: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/poor-mans-stadium-lighting/page/7#post-4478368

Flush mount magnets have been working perfectly so far. Plus, the installation is very clean. You can even paint them black on a game with a black cabinet. I just did my Police force last week. I didn't get to paint the rails black yet, though... The weather was way too cold.

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The only problem with the service outlet is that the power is on all the time, even when your machine is switched off. So unless something else turns the lights off, they will always be on when you have the machine plugged in the wall.

If you are very careful, you can take an xacto knife with a new #11 blade and cut around the outside of the rare earth magnet wherever you chose to install it. Carefully peel the side blade art you cut off the cab and set it aside. Then do the rest of the rare earth magnet install. When you are finished, reapply the cut out section of art blade material, and the seam should barely be visible.

If someone made basic warm white LED strips on 1/2" aluminum channel that was a direct wire into the GI circuit, I don't see how you could get in trouble. You could sell them for $50 a set and clean up!

Wouldn't shock me if there is no patent application at all. The fact that he hides his full name is the first thing that makes me suspicious of Pinstadium.