(Topic ID: 206424)

Poor man's Stadium lighting

By Fytr

6 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 1,001 posts
  • 197 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 23 days ago by digitaldocc
  • Topic is favorited by 332 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

PXL_20240314_012819212 (resized).jpg
PXL_20231122_065323557(1) (resized).jpg
ss2 (resized).png
ss1 (resized).png
pinlights-classic-comp-ft-720 (resized).png
20240113_164500 (resized).jpg
20240113_164431 (resized).jpg
pasted_image (resized).png
pasted_image (resized).png
pasted_image (resized).png
IMG_20230127_013429 (resized).jpg
8 (resized).jpg
IMG_20230125_175301 (resized).jpg
IMG_20230125_211008 (resized).jpg
IMG_20230125_210634 (resized).jpg
IMG_20230125_145140 (resized).jpg

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider grumpy.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

#88 6 years ago
#90 6 years ago

Oh yeah, dumb it down so we all can understand.

#98 6 years ago
Quoted from wamonkey:

I just wish there was a process of figuring out a switch mechanism that is not a permanent but shuts off the feed from the service outlet so we can use 12 volt LED strip.

This is not a very hard modification to do and can be reversed. You have a diverse collection and each would be a little bit different, but similar.

#101 6 years ago
Quoted from wamonkey:

I have not put time into a solution I want to have something I could move to a different machine if I sell part of my collection.

Why make this harder then it needs to be, just relocate the black wire on the service outlet to the switch instead of the fuse. Then plug in the 12 volt power supply and lights into the service outlet and your done. You can move the lights to any pin that you change the service outlet on.

#107 6 years ago
Quoted from wamonkey:

I knew that was an option but not really what I want to do, just not reversible easily.

Why would you reverse this as most pinheads want to have this done but aren't sure how to do it. It maybe a selling feature.

3 weeks later
#141 6 years ago
Quoted from Langless28:

Just made a quick set.

Was this the 60 led per meter or the 30 per meter strips.

#142 6 years ago
Quoted from dudah:

Thinking of getting RGBW strip - Powering white off of 12V all the time and then hooking the RGB up to different strobe bulbs. Would that work?

For example when the flasher turns on it could trigger the red set and a PNP TIP to turn off the white set at the time.

#144 6 years ago

I might try the 30 per so that a dimmer wont be needed.

#151 6 years ago

*

Quoted from MustangPaul:You could get a 60 for more even light and run them with a 9v wall wart.

I have never tried that before, but it sounds like a very good idea. I already have 60 per meter strips, I will look and see if I have a 9 volt power supply.

#155 6 years ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

Why the aversion to the light controller?

No aversion to them, just want to have it simple, reliable and automatic.

#178 6 years ago
Quoted from PoMC:

I have a box full of power supplies and use them for my LED kits.

I thought I was the only one! Me wife yells at me, why do you collect this crap!

1 month later
#201 6 years ago
Quoted from QuarterGrabber:

Is there a way i can rewire the inside of the power tap box to make the power only active when the machine is turned on?

Yes.

Quoted from QuarterGrabber:

Does anyone have pics of one rewired for this?

Here is one, it would be best for you to take a pic of your machine as they changed things over the years. Remember to unplug the machine first before unscrewing the power box. On my pic you would disconnect wire #1 at the filter and reconnect it at the switch #2.

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

#203 6 years ago

You may need something like this to convert back from 220 volt.

https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=4674

#205 6 years ago
Quoted from QuarterGrabber:

I just want it to turn on and off with the power switch instead of the service outlet being on all the time.

So remove the black wire that comes from the service outlet off of the fuse holder. Then connect the black wire from the service outlet to the black wire on the switch that is leaving the metal power box. If it was me I would cut off the pink crimp connector that is on the black wire and then twist both black wires together and then solder them to the switch. Done, go drink a beer.

#208 6 years ago
Quoted from QuarterGrabber:

Ok just so i understand. You're saying bypass the fuse completely and unsolder both bkack wires attached to the fuse and solder them directly to the switch?

No just move the black wire from the service outlet. Leave the other black wire on the fuse. Done as I said the service outlet will now be on the fuse.

#213 6 years ago
Quoted from QuarterGrabber:

When you say service outlet you mean the plug receptacle right?

Yep.
In your last pic it looks like you added on a piece of black wire, correct! That splice needs to be insulated with a piece of heat shrink tubing or it will spark if it touches anything metal.

Quoted from GRUMPY:

Then connect the black wire from the service outlet to the black wire on the switch that is leaving the metal power box.

And lastly you connected the service outlet black wire to the input of the switch, you need to connect it to the output of the switch. This is the pink connector on the right.

2 months later
#326 5 years ago
Quoted from maffewl:

Is there a way to have these be color changing depending on a flasher?

Yes.

Quoted from maffewl:

it would be mainly associated with the GI and white, but when an object is hit (or something of that nature) that triggers a certain flasher, maybe these flash another color.

You would need to buy RGBW or RGBWW 12 volt led strips.

Quoted from maffewl:

I've looked up a Pinduino, but can't find how to use, or even where to purchase. Is it just an Arduino variant?

Not needed for what you asked for.

Quoted from maffewl:

I was trying to figure out if there was a way to handle this through relays,

To be exact I would need to know what game as there can be small differences, but the same principles will apply to most machines. What you need to decide first is when the GI is off, do you still want the colored strips to activate or not. For an example lets say you do want flashing colors when the GI is dark so you need to connect the 12 volt power wire on the led strip to a constant 12 volt source. Then you need to ground the white or warm white led wire on the strip thru a relay which needs to be activated by the GI lights. Then you need to connect the red, green and blue led wires to the flasher transistors of your preference. No relay is needed for the colors as the transistor will turn them on and off. If you tell me what machine you want to add this to I can give better details.

ebay.com link: SUPERNIGHT 5M 5050 SMD RGBW RGBWW 300Leds LED Strip Light Remote DC12V Power

#328 5 years ago
Quoted from Radius118:

It would be interesting to have this information for WoZ!

I have never play a WOZ yet. I just looked over the manual and see that the GI is RGB and individually controlled by a data line. So having on and off control of the white string to follow along with the game GI maybe a bit tough. As for the color strings control, this would be easy as there are 15 12 volt control points you can use for triggering the led strips. As far as GI control I would have to talk with Lloyd about this in depth to come up with an idea.

#331 5 years ago
Quoted from maffewl:

Awesome, it would be interesting to know how to do this with Baywatch or WWF Royal Rumble.

So lets say you were going to do WWF. Does the GI turn off and on during game play? Can you post a pic of the GI relay. Can you make a idc connector cable? Also what do you want to connect each led color too.

1 year later
#558 4 years ago
Quoted from Frax:

Well...there's no DC in the game.

Add a bridge rectifier to convert it to DC. It makes the pin snappier too.

#570 4 years ago
Quoted from Frax:

I had it cleared after painting it, PLUS I've got a glo-ball in there, which is already like playing with a powerball.....on a cleared and waxed playfield. :p

Very nice , well then just connect the bridge rectifier to the GI circuit and use the output just for the LEDs.

#578 4 years ago
Quoted from dudah:

The 12V strips run off 6.3VDC fine? What do you mean "snappier"?

DC powered coils are stronger than AC powered coils.

Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
$ 139.00
Cabinet - Other
Pinball Pimp
 
£ 195.00
$ 69.00
Playfield - Plastics
Pinball Shark
 
$ 22.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
 
$ 69.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Pinball Pimp
 
$ 18.00
Electronics
Yorktown Arcade Supply
 
$ 10.00
Playfield - Plastics
UpKick Pinball
 
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
West Point, UT
$ 22.50
$ 18.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
 
From: $ 2.25
Playfield - Other
Bob's Pinball Stuff
 
From: $ 10.00
Playfield - Protection
UpKick Pinball
 
Hey modders!
Your shop name here

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider grumpy.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/poor-mans-stadium-lighting?tu=grumpy and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.