(Topic ID: 206424)

Poor man's Stadium lighting

By Fytr

6 years ago


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  • 1,001 posts
  • 197 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 27 days ago by digitaldocc
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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider dudah.
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#6 6 years ago

Been thinking about doing this also.
For effects, was thinking of using RGBW LED's - white is always on, and RGB channels are hooked up to flasher circuits to flash with the game effects.

1 month later
#138 6 years ago

Thinking of getting RGBW strip - Powering white off of 12V all the time and then hooking the RGB up to different strobe bulbs. Would that work?
How are people using the RGB(W) controllers? Or doing "GI effects"?

1 week later
3 months later
#323 5 years ago

Did some "natural white" LED strip on Congo tonight ebay.com link: 5M 10M 15M 20M 300Leds 5630 SMD Waterproof Led Strip Lights Lamp Ultra Bright

Looks insane! Went with some magnetic strip (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HYDC68/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00) and it worked great. It used most of a roll so next one I'm going to use a few strips spaced out.

A little too bright. Have a manual dimmer arriving this week. ebay.com link: sch

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4 months later
#385 5 years ago
Quoted from Phantasize:

Here is what ended up working for me on my WPC machine for GI control of the LED's. Using the optocoupler completely separates the GI side from the LED side. I just used some components i already had lying around, but any FET transistor should do as long as it is wired correctly. The same goes for the optocoupler.
I have the LED+ and LED- attached to the Bluetooth LED controller, and it works like a charm.
Furthermore i have a UV LED strip attached in the same L-channel mold that is attached to 4 different flashers (remember diodes if you are doing this!!). So i now have controllable RGBW light with GI on/off effect facing out towards the playfield, and UV flasher light facing downwards.[quoted image]

How do the UV LED's look? In my experience they're very dim.

7 months later
#491 4 years ago

My second go at these tonight...
About one hour (or podcast).

Parts:
Magnets $5 ebay.com link: N35 1 100Pcs Neodymium Disc Magnet 10mm x 1mm Super Strong Rare Earth Magnets

Remote $2 ebay.com link: 12V RF Wireless Remote Switch Controller Dimmer for Mini LED Strip Light New

Power supply $8 ebay.com link: Universal 12V 36 600W 3 5 10 20 50A Switching Power Supply Driver for LED Strip

Connectors $5 ebay.com link: 10cm JST Plug 2pin Connector Cable Wire Female Male RC Lipo Battery 10Sets

LED cable from another project ebay.com link: 2 Pin Extension Cable Connector Wire Cord For Single LED Strip Light 3528 5050

Aluminum channel from Home Depot was like $8
White LED strip had from another project
Some heatshrink to make it all neat
Hot glue gun

Dedicated 12V switching power supply this time.
The previous owner had a arcade power supply 5V hack, I used that existing wiring that was nicely tapped into the switched line voltage.

Parts:
IMG_20190521_224727 (resized).jpgIMG_20190521_224727 (resized).jpg

Cut the wire - I did 6 ft for the sides, 12 ft for the trough. Could've gotten away with a foot or two less on the sides but whatever
Strip all the wire and tin it
Solder on the connectors (don't forget heat shrink!)
Test!
IMG_20190521_230023 (resized).jpgIMG_20190521_230023 (resized).jpg

I had already pre-cut and painted the aluminum channel
Swap with alcohol the inside of the channel and where you're going to mount the magnets
Apply the LED strips
IMG_20190521_235124 (resized).jpgIMG_20190521_235124 (resized).jpg

Break up the magnets into 6 pairs
Hot glue a pair of magnets on the ends and middle of each strip
Line up the strip on the side of the cabinet
Put a dab of glue on one pair of magnets and apply it to the cabinet
Line it up and do the rest one at a time
Connect it all and enjoy!

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#493 4 years ago
Quoted from PTHermes:

dudah Are you lights pointing down or towards the center? Looks like a nice improvement.

Center

2 months later
#571 4 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Add a bridge rectifier to convert it to DC. It makes the pin snappier too.

The 12V strips run off 6.3VDC fine? What do you mean "snappier"?

#597 4 years ago
Quoted from peterbrau:

Also, I have since 3D printed some parts that make a better transition from wire to led strips[quoted image]

Care to share stl file?

#616 4 years ago

These also caught my eye - https://www.amazon.com/LightingWill-Aluminum-Anodized-Mounting-TP-V02B5/dp/B01DM7GBIM/ref=sr_1_3

45 degree angle for mounting the strips with a milky diffuser

#628 4 years ago
Quoted from russdx:

Any ever thought about just spraying the ball in some fluorescent paint and adding a few black lamps so it glows, as technically all of this is so you can see the ball? instead of making everything lit why not just glow the ball hehe??

Paint would wear off the ball and onto your game. Nope.
Also, the "UV LED's" don't really project much actual light.

7 months later
#724 4 years ago
Quoted from Kawydud:

Worked more on Sorcerer this morning. Connected the 12 volt RGBW strip on the top of the

I was gonna say you can get a little bridge rectifier to switch the relay, but that looks sick...

1 year later
#914 2 years ago

HomePin is using the COB (chip on board) LED strip for their Spinal Tap release. Very interesting! Could resolve a lot of complaints people have of seeing the individual LED's. I'm familiar with COB but didn't know they came in strips. A bit more expensive, but likely a worthwhile investment!
ebay.com link: itm

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1 month later
#924 2 years ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

I am using this kind of device (a friend made it for me). The power goes into this unit and the power leaves from this unit to the controller. There are also connectors for the GI-signal.
What would be a good controller to use with some memory so that such memory loss/reset to factory state would not occur?
[quoted image]

Schematic?

1 year later
#971 4 months ago

Made my first set in a while, did the magnets drilled on the side that worked great.
It makes my head spin how people do power, I just piggyback into the game switch with a dedicated power supply, ground it to the ground braid. Easy.

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1 month later
#985 87 days ago
Quoted from Compy:

For those of you who don't know, 86Pixels has created mods for the past several years, primarily the Pinvision system which is the interactive backboard display for Twilight Zone, TRON, Theatre of Magic and others. Next up will be our "Pinlights" line of products. Simply, they're lights that'll interact with the game and they're a hell of a lot cheaper (close to 1/3-1/2 of the lowest tier of the competition). Of course, nobody ever JUST wants to compete on price because that's bad for industries as small as ours, so here's the feature list:
1. Everything is diffused, no spots anywhere.
2. Side glare shields so you're not blinded when playing an adjacent game.
3. Super thin magnet mount strips so you don't have to screw with the larger "commonly available" magnets that scuff when you raise the playfield.
4. A wire harness disconnect about 6" beyond the light bar so you can actually REMOVE them without having to take the guts out of the machine.
5. GI and flasher integration
6. A mobile app and hardware system that is designed for pinball (this sounds super market-y, but hear me out)
7. For people with side art blades, we're testing out a metal mounting bracket so the lights don't peel your art off due to the weight... so no more flaccid artwork!
Given #6, we can do a bunch of things that nobody else can, here's a shot of the app:
[quoted image] [quoted image]
A. Power, well, this is self explanatory
B. "Duck GI During Flashers" - For an added flasher effect, you can turn the GI of the light bar off when a flasher hit occurs
C. Tournament Mode - Disable all effects and just leave the system "ON" as to not be distracting
D. GI Cool White/Warm White mix - Mix in GI color temperature. Some games look better with a warmer white option, newer sterns often look better with cooler white, or mix both for a daytime white color.
E. GI Flasher Mix - Some games look better with a bit of the purple flasher circuit mixed in, so you can dial that in here.
F. GI Minimum Brightness - On some games the GI flickers... a LOT, and with lights like these, it can create a nearly blinding strobing effect. Set this setting so you can still see the ball during these features.
G. Turn off GI after (seconds) - If you're using the minimum brightness setting, turn off your GI "eventually" so your game doesn't stay on the minimum brightness when you actually power off your game.
The app can also do firmware updates so as we add features or fix bugs, you can take advantage. There's also no forced cloud bullshit with this app. If you don't want to sync your junk to the cloud, you don't need to register or anything and you can just keep it on your phone.
I haven't discussed this publicly, but only with a few testers, but here's a commitment from me on this one:
1. No forced marketing. We won't game the system by attaching our product listings to every game imaginable (unless said product is designed for one game specifically, looking at you expression lighting...)
2. Honest marketing - No manipulated images. In fact, all of our promos will have a light meter at the center of the playfield (see below)
Right now I'm just waiting on approval from the various app stores. We've got all the parts, boards, wire harnesses, lights, etc here and ready to go.
[quoted image]
Anywho, happy Friday and lets play some pinball!
-- Jimmy
[quoted image]

I'm a VERY DIY kinda guy, and this has my attention. Looking forward to seeing your product launch! Any plans for UV?

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