(Topic ID: 206424)

Poor man's Stadium lighting

By Fytr

6 years ago


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  • 1,001 posts
  • 197 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 29 days ago by digitaldocc
  • Topic is favorited by 332 Pinsiders

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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider Kawydud.
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#311 5 years ago
Quoted from darcangeloel:

I wonder if these would do it if they could just sell me a roll of the leds. He claims they are AC or DC and are fully rectified? Not really sure what is meant here. Thoughts?
https://wholesaler.alibaba.com/product-detail/6-3V-AC-Bonus-Strip-with_60715295184.html?spm=a2700.9099375.0.0.9bee13333xS3GO
Bonus Strip
They are made from the highest quality plastics and electronic components available.
Voltage 6.3 AC or DC, as these are fully rectified.
This Kit comes with Clips and Sockets 44 / 47 and 555
1 Strip of 6 LEDs/ 3 LEDS/ 7 LEDs

Are you looking for white? I have lots of rolls of color 6 volt led strips, red, green, blue.

#313 5 years ago

I bought some rgbw led strips as well. Going to power the rgb from the bluetooth controller, then power the white off of the GI.

1 year later
#680 4 years ago

I bought some 5 volt RGB and Warm white strips, leds alternate between the rgb and the warm white. Going to power them off the GI into one of those simple controllers. Making up stand offs to mount the strips on the outside of the playfield for Iron Maiden.

23b4ae9169362b3a728a2965b73c719f (resized).jpg23b4ae9169362b3a728a2965b73c719f (resized).jpg
#683 4 years ago
Quoted from Fytr:

By "Iron Maiden" I'm assuming you mean the game from 1982?
If so, sounds good, though I haven't seen any RGB controllers that will run off of 6.8VAC.
If you mean Stern IMDN from 2018 - STOP! The node boards that run the GI on that game will not tolerate much additional load. You wouldn't want to run long RGB strips like that you would surely burn out a very expensive board. In this scenario you would want to use an RGB controller to power them that itself is powered by a safe 12v source like the coin door bill acceptor.

New Iron Maiden - link to 5 volt controller - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07J9QCQNN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00

#685 4 years ago
Quoted from Fytr:

Okay. That controller is for 12v power in and 12-24v LED out I believe. So won't work properly with 5v RGBW LED strips.
You will also definately want to power it using an external 12v power brick and not connected directly to your GI on your game.
You might want to study some of the case examples in the FAQ post (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/poor-mans-stadium-lighting#post-4153578) before proceeding.

It works great on the rolls of 5 volt I have here. Works on the range of voltages from 5-24. Works just as good on my 12 volt rolls.

#687 4 years ago
Quoted from Fytr:

Okay, just the specs don't indicate what the supported output voltages are.[quoted image]

understood, lot of these chinese controllers are hard to get correct specs on. Zoom in on the picture of the controller, lists 5-28v.

3 weeks later
#697 4 years ago
Quoted from marspinball:

This led kit incorpotes similar app control.
ebay.com link
Has anyone included a separate flasher led strip?

Easy to do, I run 5 volt warm white tied into the GI, and a 12 volt setup for the other strip that could be tied into the flasher. If you have a Spike game, the flashers are 5 volt.

3 months later
#716 4 years ago

Built a quick set for Sorcerer, used warm white 5 volt strips. Happy with the results.

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#718 4 years ago
Quoted from QuarterGrabber:

I haven't been on pinside in a long time and there is way too many Post in this thread to read them all, LOL. I have the no name as we will call them Stadium lights in my games I bought one of them that turns all the Stadium lights on and off with all the game lighting so everything goes together via a relay. I bought another four without that relay. I now regret it because it looks way better to have the stadium lights turn on and off with all the other game lighting. My question is can someone point me in the direction of a good relay to buy to do this, and a quick tutorial on how to do it?

What games do you have the lighting installed on? And what voltage leds are you using?

#721 4 years ago
Quoted from QuarterGrabber:

I have the one that already has the relay installed in my Ironman ve. I also have them in X-Men Lord of the Rings and Terminator 2. Terminator 2 it is hooked up to the main power supply where the plug receptacle is. Into the 12 volt. On Lord of the Rings and X-Men it is hooked up to where you hook up all the mods for power. That little extra power cord thingy on the side. Hope that makes sense?

I bought a couple of these to try in my Iron Maiden, triggered by the GI. I will let you know how they work.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LW15A4W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00

1 week later
#723 4 years ago

Worked more on Sorcerer this morning. Connected the 12 volt RGBW strip on the top of the angle. It was there before, just didn't get to wire it. Hooked up the relay that I bought, but when I was done it was chattering a lot. Figured out why, it is a 5vdc relay, GI is 5VAC. So I just used red for the top and let it stay on when the GI cuts out. Actually looks pretty good.

#725 4 years ago
Quoted from dudah:

I was gonna say you can get a little bridge rectifier to switch the relay, but that looks sick...

I thought about the bridge rectifier as well, after all my work it would have just been as easy to put a red strip of 12 volt instead of the rgbw. Wouldn't have needed the controller and all the wiring. At least I have the option of changing the color if I want.

#728 4 years ago
Quoted from Fytr:

Red looks great! I made a hack rectifier for my Metallica set by removing the LED chip from an LED bulb itself wired to the GI and then wiring the leads from the now missing LED chip into the relay 5v DC in (the LED bulb rectifies the AC to DC itself for the DC LED it uses). Worked well.

Yeah, a bunch of ways to get it accomplished. If my basement wasn't so dark, I probably would mess with it some more. I really love how the red looks when the GI cuts out. Tried it with a couple different colors, but red was my favorite.

1 week later
#731 3 years ago
Quoted from QuarterGrabber:

Did these ever come in? And can you give a quick tutorial on install?

They did come in, I haven't put them on Iron Maiden yet, tried them on Sorcerer, but Sorcerer is AC voltage. They worked ok, but coil was buzzing because of the ac current. I will try to get a set installed on Iron Maiden this weekend hopefully. They are pretty straight forward to connect.

4 months later
#783 3 years ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

Note on post 772 above involving the double row 5050 RGBW LED: the rgb order is rolled compared to the single row 5050 RGBW LEDs. I was looking at them installed last night and something didn’t look right, and discovered that when I took the strip that was factory connected and changed the color it worked correctly, however the other strip that I soldered and connected the colors didn’t match.
So I took them a short while ago and removed the heatshrink double checking my soldering. It looked good and the wires looked to be correctly color match. So I’d then removed the factory soldered strip and found this:
[quoted image]
Wow! I went in and resoldered my connector, and now the colors selected in the app match the colors displayed on the strip. Makes zero sense why they did this with the double row 5050 strips....smh!!!

That happens a lot with these led strips, the RGB don't ever seem to match what they are supposed to.

1 month later
#806 3 years ago
Quoted from Bos98:

So I took a few things from this thread and made my own version.
This uses the dual channel relay a RGBW controller for GI lighting and using the second channel UV flashers.
At this point there are enough links to parts so here are some photos and how it’s wired.
On the left of the relay with 6 outputs I daisy chained the COMS together and ran a jumper from COM2 to the DC+.
I then spliced the Black wire of a RGBW jumper and hooked the one side to the DC+ and one to NO1
I attached a long extension wire from DC- to use as a connecting point for the many grounds.
I then took a MALE and a FEMALE 12V plug and hooked the + to the DC+ and the - to DC-
The DC+ is also where I connected the other end of the BLACK wire coming from the RGBW controller.
I plugged the MALE power run in to the RGBW controller and left the FEMALE plug to attach to a 12V power supply of your choosing.
Then attach a set of wires as a trigger. I took the red to IN2 in this example and the black to the DC-. Then attach alligator clips to the trigger wire.
If you want UV flashers simply add another trigger and a second setup on the other channel similar to this.
Set the black jumpers to HIGH to have the lights turn on with the game. If you set them LOW the lights will turn on when game lights turn off which is probably not what you want.
Follow the other guides on construction setup of your light strips.
Hope this helps anyone else who was trying to get RGBW GI with WiFi control + UV Flashers on a single relay.
I have bench tested this with no issue. Just waiting on glue to dry before I take this to a machine.
I knows it’s not pretty but it was a first run. I am sure I will come up with a better hookup on the next one.
Thanks!
[quoted image][quoted image]

So this particular relay will work with a lower voltage signal from the GI to turn on and off? Even though it is a 12 volt relay?

#811 3 years ago

Thank you!

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