Circle Pines, MN
Probably pointed our before - but these cabinet blade protectors really help in raising PF's up
to protect your side/decals/tape
https://www.pinballlife.com/interior-cabinet-protector-blade-set.html
(Topic ID: 206424)
Quoted from fanuminski:Probably pointed our before - but these cabinet blade protectors really help in raising PF's up
to protect your side/decals/tape
https://www.pinballlife.com/interior-cabinet-protector-blade-set.html
I have one of those and LOVE it, especially if you have mirror blades. 
Thanks for the reply guys. Gonna try the thin Velcro first. I'm a bit gun-shy to mount the flush magnets. But I wont rule it out.
New issue. How can I tie the 12VDC LED controller into the GI, on Funhouse? I think the GI works off of modulated 6VAC. Maybe I am wrong. But I want the Stadium lights to operate in unison, with the GI circuit.
Id really like to try this. In going through this thread there are a lot of different options for led strips. Seems like flush mounted magnet strips would be easy to use. Pretty clear where to get the angle brackets.
Ive seen the 12v and 5v usb light strips. What are most of you using? Seems like the 5v ties in cleaner. Just trying to get clarification on the led strip lighting options and whats required to use either (pros and cons?) Having a hard time following
Quoted from djsolzs:Id really like to try this. In going through this thread there are a lot of different options for led strips. Seems like flush mounted magnet strips would be easy to use. Pretty clear where to get the angle brackets.
Ive seen the 12v and 5v usb light strips. What are most of you using? Seems like the 5v ties in cleaner. Just trying to get clarification on the led strip lighting options and whats required to use either (pros and cons?) Having a hard time following
5v is easier to tie into if you can power it directly from an existing GI socket. Concerns are do you have the wattage overhead available on the GI circuit to add that many LEDs to it? And also I believe the 5v won't be as bright as the 12v. No way to integrate an LED controller to control the brightness or colours, etc. with 5v either as far as I am aware.
12v is powered indepenently of the game lighting so no concerns with blowing up a game board/fuse. However, if you want to integrate the lights with game GI that flashes on and off you will need to a relay of some kind to control that (not needed for earlier games that don't flash the GI). 12v can also easily controllers that support either IR remote controls or bluetooth connection to a smartphone app. to setup the colours and brightness, etc.
I was kind of hoping a Mod would step in at some point and add some key posts to this thread, but in the meantime I'll edit my OP with an index of sorts (time permitting).
FYTR that clears a ton up for me I appreciate it. Sounds like I would prefer the 12v setup over the 5v. I dont mind running power out the cab or to the service outlet. I would like to integrate to the flashers - Ill have to do some research on the relay can this be purchased?
If I can come up with a list of things purchased for this project Ill post in one place. Thanks
Quoted from djsolzs:FYTR that clears a ton up for me I appreciate it. Sounds like I would prefer the 12v setup over the 5v. I dont mind running power out the cab or to the service outlet. I would like to integrate to the flashers - Ill have to do some research on the relay can this be purchased?
If I can come up with a list of things purchased for this project Ill post in one place. Thanks
If you want both GI lighting and the ability to have a flasher effect you can add two LED strips to your angled plastics, one facing straight out for GI (white, warm-white, or RGBW) and another facing down for the flasher in whatever colour you want.
The flasher strip could be powered directly off an existing flasher bulb (for SAM and earlier games anyway, no sure about Spike/2) so this is easy enough.
Quoted from Fytr:If you want both GI lighting and the ability to have a flasher effect you can add two LED strips to your angled plastics, one facing straight out for GI (white, warm-white, or RGBW) and another facing down for the flasher in whatever colour you want.
The flasher strip could be powered directly off an existing flasher bulb (for SAM and earlier games anyway, no sure about Spike/2) so this is easy enough.
Check out the new system from Rock Custom Pinball. His game on system powers from the service outlet, but he uses one to three light sensors to turn on mods. Great for interactive modding. Rock914 I’ve tested it and it works well.
The game on mod is interesting. Can you tell us how the 1-3 light sensors work or get configured? For example how to get the flashers to work with one of the sensors?
The only problem with the service outlet is that the power is on all the time, even when your machine is switched off. So unless something else turns the lights off, they will always be on when you have the machine plugged in the wall.
Quoted from JodyG:The only problem with the service outlet is that the power is on all the time, even when your machine is switched off. So unless something else turns the lights off, they will always be on when you have the machine plugged in the wall.
One way to get controlled 110V AC (turns on/off with the game power) is tapping into the dollar bill acceptor wire harness. All Whitestar/SAM games have them and I believe most WPC. Not sure about earlier games.
Quoted from JodyG:The only problem with the service outlet is that the power is on all the time, even when your machine is switched off. So unless something else turns the lights off, they will always be on when you have the machine plugged in the wall.
Thanks for the tag Lermods
JodyG I can certainly see why you would think that, this is not true of my mod at all.
I built my Game On System to only be on when the Game is On. I utilize a light sensor relay to turn the power on to the system. If you put the sensor near a GI light it will act as a GI relay. Additional sensors can be purchased (up to 8 ) to interact with any light in the game be it GI, flasher, insert, spot or what have you. I built this system as a work around for Stern Spike games since the node boards are so fragile and Stern voids the warranty if we plug into them. So, with this system I can power all my mods and other makers such as Lermods, Mezelmods, speaker light kits, etc... I will be adding a larger power supply to handle all these mods as well as colordmd.
I have not read much of this thread and have always supported and helped the DIY guys. I just want to say Pinstadium lights are a great product and well worth the money in my opinion. Scott does a fantastic job with them and his tech support is excellent.
Quoted from Rock914:Thanks for the tag lermods
jodyg I can certainly see why you would think that, this is not true of my mod at all.
I built my Game On System to only be on when the Game is On. I utilize a light sensor relay to turn the power on to the system. If you put the sensor near a GI light it will act as a GI relay. Additional sensors can be purchased (up to 8 ) to interact with any light in the game be it GI, flasher, insert, spot or what have you. I built this system as a work around for Stern Spike games since the node boards are so fragile and Stern voids the warranty if we plug into them. So, with this system I can power all my mods and other makers such as Lermods, Mezelmods, speaker light kits, etc... I will be adding a larger power supply to handle all these mods as well as colordmd.
I have not read much of this thread and have always supported and helped the DIY guys. I just want to say Pinstadium lights are a great product and well worth the money in my opinion. Scott does a fantastic job with them and his tech support is excellent.
That sounds like my photosensor control that was installed in your display game in New England that I loaned you. I talked about them 9 months ago on this link https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/%e2%9c%94-lighted-magnetic-hinge-covers-lighted-pinball-mods
Wish you would have at least talked to me about them or give me a bit of credit.
Quoted from Litedpinballmods:That sounds like my photosensor control that was installed in your display game in New England that I loaned you. I talked about them 9 months ago on this link https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/%e2%9c%94-lighted-magnetic-hinge-covers-lighted-pinball-mods
Wish you would have at least talked to me about them or give me a bit of credit.
Here is a picture of my Game On setup.
Since you have not responded to your email or PM I guess I will address this here.
Looks like you were if fact using something very similar 9 months ago, so if you want credit here it is. Great way to supply power to your mod without using the machines boards, genius! That is exactly why I created this system to power mods as well as provide interactive features. I looked at your mods yesterday and you supply nothing that does this so I am not sure what the issue is. I did not copy what you were using even though we may be using the same thing. You or your mod were not even a thought in my head so I am not sure why I would have contacted you about it. I like your mods very much and from what I have seen you do nice work.
You did graciously lend me your game to put in Pinstadiums booth at Pintastic, thank you. I wish I understood what you were doing then. I think we could have worked together on this. But you know shows we were both very busy with our own booths and I had a rough time looking after Pinstadiums booth as well. Feel free to email me if you would like to discuss further.
Thanks for all the PM’s guys. To answer some questions. No, I will not build a product similar to Pinstadiums for you. I provide a GI relay that was asked for in this thread. If you want Pinstadiums buy the real deal. I worked with Scott a lot on them before they came to market, they are a fantastic product. If you are making them yourself and need a GI relay and power, I have that.
Regards
Chris
https://www.rockcustompinball.com
F9AF419B-FDF1-48EC-B99D-804C3E076121 (resized).jpegQuoted from Rock914:Here is a picture of my Game On setup.
Since you have not responded to your email or PM I guess I will address this here.
Looks like you were if fact using something very similar 9 months ago, so if you want credit here it is. Great way to supply power to your mod without using the machines boards, genius! That is exactly why I created this system to power mods as well as provide interactive features. I looked at your mods yesterday and you supply nothing that does this so I am not sure what the issue is. I did not copy what you were using even though we may be using the same thing. You or your mod were not even a thought in my head so I am not sure why I would have contacted you about it. I like your mods very much and from what I have seen you do nice work.
You did graciously lend me your game to put in Pinstadiums booth at Pintastic, thank you. I wish I understood what you were doing then. I think we could have worked together on this. But you know shows we were both very busy with our own booths and I had a rough time looking after Pinstadiums booth as well. Feel free to email me if you would like to discuss further.
Thanks for all the PM’s guys. To answer some questions. No, I will not build a product similar to Pinstadiums for you. I provide a GI relay that was asked for in this thread. If you want Pinstadiums buy the real deal. I worked with Scott a lot on them before they came to market, they are a fantastic product. If you are making them yourself and need a GI relay and power, I have that.
Regards
Chris
https://www.rockcustompinball.com
[quoted image]
You do nice work Rock.
Hi all!
As this thread has grown it has become more and more cumbersome to find relevant information within it.
Taking matters into my own hands I have created an FAQ-format index at the top of the 1st post for people to reference for common questions with links to available reference posts, etc.
See: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/poor-mans-stadium-lighting#post-4153578
I will attempt to keep this index current by adding new reference links when appropriate, etc.
Please PM me if you find any glaring ommissions or mistakes or would like to provide additional content. 
Quoted from Rock914:Here is a picture of my Game On setup.
Since you have not responded to your email or PM I guess I will address this here.
Looks like you were if fact using something very similar 9 months ago, so if you want credit here it is. Great way to supply power to your mod without using the machines boards, genius! That is exactly why I created this system to power mods as well as provide interactive features. I looked at your mods yesterday and you supply nothing that does this so I am not sure what the issue is. I did not copy what you were using even though we may be using the same thing. You or your mod were not even a thought in my head so I am not sure why I would have contacted you about it. I like your mods very much and from what I have seen you do nice work.
You did graciously lend me your game to put in Pinstadiums booth at Pintastic, thank you. I wish I understood what you were doing then. I think we could have worked together on this. But you know shows we were both very busy with our own booths and I had a rough time looking after Pinstadiums booth as well. Feel free to email me if you would like to discuss further.
Thanks for all the PM’s guys. To answer some questions. No, I will not build a product similar to Pinstadiums for you. I provide a GI relay that was asked for in this thread. If you want Pinstadiums buy the real deal. I worked with Scott a lot on them before they came to market, they are a fantastic product. If you are making them yourself and need a GI relay and power, I have that.
Regards
Chris
https://www.rockcustompinball.com
[quoted image]
It does exactly what your item does. It has a 12V input using a 5.5mm x 2.1mm and output. You can hook up a spliter to it just like yours. It has a photosensor that triggers to allow power to go out. The phototsensor is on a 30 wire so in can put next to any light on the play field. How is yours different then mine? You had borrowed my machine that had it in it in June of 2018, then 6 months later you come out with the same exact product I made and designed. How is it different? You even said that when you talked to Lermods, he told you it was the same item I had made. Lermods would know, because I gave him one in June. So, it sounds like Lermods had my back on this.
We have had about 1,000 of these shipped, even Cointaker has been selling my products with this controller for 8 months.
Dan
Quoted from Rock914:Here is a picture of my Game On setup.
Since you have not responded to your email or PM I guess I will address this here.
Looks like you were if fact using something very similar 9 months ago, so if you want credit here it is. Great way to supply power to your mod without using the machines boards, genius! That is exactly why I created this system to power mods as well as provide interactive features. I looked at your mods yesterday and you supply nothing that does this so I am not sure what the issue is. I did not copy what you were using even though we may be using the same thing. You or your mod were not even a thought in my head so I am not sure why I would have contacted you about it. I like your mods very much and from what I have seen you do nice work.
You did graciously lend me your game to put in Pinstadiums booth at Pintastic, thank you. I wish I understood what you were doing then. I think we could have worked together on this. But you know shows we were both very busy with our own booths and I had a rough time looking after Pinstadiums booth as well. Feel free to email me if you would like to discuss further.
Thanks for all the PM’s guys. To answer some questions. No, I will not build a product similar to Pinstadiums for you. I provide a GI relay that was asked for in this thread. If you want Pinstadiums buy the real deal. I worked with Scott a lot on them before they came to market, they are a fantastic product. If you are making them yourself and need a GI relay and power, I have that.
Regards
Chris
https://www.rockcustompinball.com
[quoted image]
Here is a 91 second video that was posted on Youtube 9 months ago that demonstrated the photosenor relay. Look closely, 12V 5.5mm x 2.1mm out, we even have two outputs to hook up to two items without using a spliter. That has a 1 amp power supply on it in that picture, but our design can handle over 10 amps. The phototsensor is on a wire, so it can be put next to any light in your game to control the power flow. The board even has a pedometer on it so you can control the light input if needed for more delicate inputs. The only difference is you put yours in a box.
Please note that video was posted 9 months ago, 7 months before yours came out, and the video has about 1,300 views.
Their is no difference between your item and mine item, and you had my item in your hand in June of 2018!!
Dan
Quoted from MustangPaul:You do nice work Rock.
And Paul, I shipped you one of these relays about 4 months ago.
Quoted from Litedpinballmods:Here is a 91 second video that was posted on Youtube 9 months ago that demonstrated the photosenor relay. Look closely, 12V 5.5mm x 2.1mm out, we even have two outputs to hook up to two items without using a spliter. That has a 1 amp power supply on it in that picture, but our design can handle over 10 amps. The phototsensor is on a wire, so it can be put next to any light in your game to control the power flow. The board even has a pedometer on it so you can control the light input if needed for more delicate inputs. The only difference is you put yours in a box.
Please note that video was posted 9 months ago, 7 months before yours came out, and the video has about 1,300 views.
Their is no difference between your item and mine item, and you had my item in your hand in June of 2018!!
Dan
You assume to much.
Why are you posting this? All the answers have been addressed in PM’s. I didn’t copy your stuff. Just because our relays are similar does not mean I copied you. I don’t even see that you sell a power supply like this or one at all. If you still believe you have been wronged offer the same thing as me, hell make it cheaper for everyone. That should help the community.
Quoted from Rock914:You assume to much.
Why are you posting this? All the answers have been addressed in PM’s. I didn’t copy your stuff. Just because our relays are similar does not mean I copied you. I don’t even see that you sell a power supply like this or one at all. If you still believe you have been wronged offer the same thing as me, hell make it cheaper for everyone. That should help the community.
We have those power supplies in 3 amp, 5 amp and 7 amp. Those hinges only take .25 amps, why would I want to put a larger power supply on that. WOW, you are really reaching. I am not going to reply and clutter up this thread any more. People can see your description, see how it is exactly what is on the 91 second video, that was posted 7 months before you showed your product. You and I even talked about this product standing in front of our photosensor display in New England, and you had it in the game I loaned you at the show. Also, they are not similar, the hardware is exactly the same. Amazing how you made something exactly the same as mine after you saw mine. WOW!
No more replies from me. Sorry to viewers of this thread that I had to call Rock out and waste your guys time, just needed to get the truth out.
Quoted from Litedpinballmods:And Paul, I shipped you one of these relays about 4 months ago.
Hmmmmm I don't remember getting it.
Litedpinballmods and
Rock914 seems like you guys might want to start your own thread for this?
If either of you have a Pinside Market ad or other thread where folks can learn about your mods and purchase them please let me know and I'll add those to the FAQ for interested parties. An inexpensive assemble-yourself kit option would be great as well.
For my last 4 games I've had come thru my gameroom, I've used this simple and cheap solution for lighting.
$4.88 each @ Walmart, Monster makes white LED strips, USB powered and includes a remote to change 4 different shades of white (cool, day, warm, ice) and the brightness. I have lots of USB wall adapters, so I get one for each strip and plug them into a 4' extension cord plugged into the service outlet. I turn my games on/off with a powerstrip, so the lights turn on and off with my games.
I spray paint the Home Depot metal angle strips black and use magnet tape to secure the angle strips to the cabinet. I use a little superglue on the back of the LED strips to be make sure the LED strips don't ever lift.
Cheapest, easiest, basic lighting solution I've made yet. I don't want my lights to turn on/off with the GI and I only want shades of white to choose from. Just plug and play into the service outlet. My Big Hurt game does not have a service outlet, so the extension cord runs out the rear of the cabinet into the power strip. So that's an easy workaround if your game lacks a service outlet.
Quoted from MustangPaul:Hmmmmm I don't remember getting it.
it was with the hinge for Batman Forever. Did you ever get the Batman Forever hinge?
Quoted from Litedpinballmods:it was with the hinge for Batman Forever. Did you ever get the Batman Forever hinge?
Oh yes stupid me yes I got it but I've been so busy with other things I haven't installed it yet, sorry. I still haven't finished installing your HS II speaker panel light up also. There never seems to be enough hours in a day.
Just finished this set for my party zone. It’s plenty bright but the game has a feature you never see. Amazing fluorescent paint scheme!
The game has a single GI string that’s only red lights. You can’t tell with all other strings on but when they are turned off, it’s really cool. I took it 1 step further and used a 6vac relay NC on a normal GI string so when only the red string is on, so is my uv rail lights. Pretty pleased as it’s a cool effect. Sorry for crappy playing and glass glare. Also sorry, my kids watching Brave in the background.
D562D0AF-A4AC-4755-A4C9-CDB5CA558C2D (resized).jpegQuoted from Langless28:Just finished this set for my party zone. It’s plenty bright but the game has a feature you never see. Amazing fluorescent paint scheme!
The game has a single GI string that’s only red lights. You can’t tell with all other strings on but when they are turned off, it’s really cool. I took it 1 step further and used a 6vac relay NC on a normal GI string so when only the red string is on, so is my uv rail lights. Pretty pleased as it’s a cool effect. Sorry for crappy playing and glass glare. Also sorry, my kids watching Brave in the background.
[quoted image]
Wow that really does light up great, same with TFTC. With digital printed pf's you can kiss the bl glow goodby. 
1 week later
Helsinki
Hi!
I am using an external power source to power up my "poor man stadium lights". The power source is connected to a power outlet on the wall. On the outlet I have a remote control unit socket - I mean, I can turn power on/off to the socket. However, even though I would have switched the power off, there is still small current going to the led-bars. I notice it e.g. by pressing the lights with my fingers, usually some lights turn on then and they seem to give tiny electrical shocks as well.
This has resulted into me plugging the power sources off completely from the wall as I do not like the idea of the led-bars having power all the time and thinking that perhaps it would be a fire hazard. Its annoying to having to plug them in again, when playing a game.
Its strange that the remote controllable socket does not stop the power going to the led-bars completely.
Any tips on how to avoid this? Someone told me to try to turn the socket 180 degrees, but it did not help.
Thanks for any help!
is it just for a brief time after power down? some wall warts (power supplies) have dc smoothing caps in them that hold a change for a small amount of time after they are unplugged/off maybe 10-20s.
if they fully turn on with the socket turned off then something is probably wrong with the socket.
Quoted from Langless28:is it just for a brief time after power down? some wall warts (power supplies) have dc smoothing caps in them that hold a change for a small amount of time after they are unplugged/off maybe 10-20s.
if they fully turn on with the socket turned off then something is probably wrong with the socket.
It is usually more time than that, when I have tested them...
They do not turn on fully at all, when the socket has been remotely turned off - it is just that when I press the led-bar with fingers, usually that section of the led-light bar lights up (2-3 leds only). And touching the led-bars may give a small electric shock on occasion even though the socket is off. Seems like there is some tiny current on them all the time.
Quoted from Nepi23:Hi!
I am using an external power source to power up my "poor man stadium lights". The power source is connected to a power outlet on the wall. On the outlet I have a remote control unit socket - I mean, I can turn power on/off to the socket. However, even though I would have switched the power off, there is still small current going to the led-bars. I notice it e.g. by pressing the lights with my fingers, usually some lights turn on then and they seem to give tiny electrical shocks as well.
This has resulted into me plugging the power sources off completely from the wall as I do not like the idea of the led-bars having power all the time and thinking that perhaps it would be a fire hazard. Its annoying to having to plug them in again, when playing a game.
Its strange that the remote controllable socket does not stop the power going to the led-bars completely.
Any tips on how to avoid this? Someone told me to try to turn the socket 180 degrees, but it did not help.
Thanks for any help!
Get rid of that remote switch and put a small 6 outlet power strip with an on/off rocker switch in place of the coin box, plug the wall wart into that and run an extension cord into the power strip. To turn the strip on and off just open the coin door and flick the switch.
Quoted from Nepi23:It is usually more time than that, when I have tested them...
They do not turn on fully at all, when the socket has been remotely turned off - it is just that when I press the led-bar with fingers, usually that section of the led-light bar lights up (2-3 leds only). And touching the led-bars may give a small electric shock on occasion even though the socket is off. Seems like there is some tiny current on them all the time.
Your remote switch must be "leaky" where it provides a small amount of current even when it supposed to be off. I have an Xmas light timer that does the same thing, when it is "off" the lights are still very dimly lit.
Probably not a big deal, you might try measuring the current coming out of the socket when it is off with a multimeter (carefully).
Quoted from Nepi23:Hi!
I am using an external power source to power up my "poor man stadium lights". The power source is connected to a power outlet on the wall. On the outlet I have a remote control unit socket - I mean, I can turn power on/off to the socket. However, even though I would have switched the power off, there is still small current going to the led-bars. I notice it e.g. by pressing the lights with my fingers, usually some lights turn on then and they seem to give tiny electrical shocks as well.
This has resulted into me plugging the power sources off completely from the wall as I do not like the idea of the led-bars having power all the time and thinking that perhaps it would be a fire hazard. Its annoying to having to plug them in again, when playing a game.
Its strange that the remote controllable socket does not stop the power going to the led-bars completely.
Any tips on how to avoid this? Someone told me to try to turn the socket 180 degrees, but it did not help.
Thanks for any help!
What game is this for?
Quoted from Fytr:Your remote switch must be "leaky" where it provides a small amount of current even when it supposed to be off. I have an Xmas light timer that does the same thing, when it is "off" the lights are still very dimly lit.
Probably not a big deal, you might try measuring the current coming out of the socket when it is off with a multimeter (carefully).
Yes, this must be the case. I have those cheap remote-controllable sockets, but I do not know which brand to trust here. Maybe I should wire the pins so that the wall is connected to a socket outlet with a rocker first and it gives power to the pins, so I could use the rocker then block the current to the pins.
Quoted from Lamprey:Wouldn't it be easier to just hook it into the power of the pinball machine so it turns on and off with the machine? I can't understand having a external plugin for some LEDs...
I would do that, but I do not know know how to do it. That would be the best choice. Then it works nicely, if the power inside the pin has an external socket that one can use. I think WOZ has some power outlet, but it was with a US power outlet tap I think.
Quoted from MustangPaul:What game is this for?
All of my pins, well CCC has Pinstadiums in it.
Quoted from PoMC:Lighting I made tonight for Maverick.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
That looks every bit as good as the expensive one. Nice job.
On my last 4 or 5 kits, I've used $4.88 Monster USB LED strips from Walmart (one per side). These have 4 white choices (no colors which I don't want anyway) and brightness controls on the remote and I like the day/warm setting the best. But on sci-fi games like SST, the cooler settings looked great. With 4 white temperatures to choose from, these are a great choice for any game.
I've never been happy with the whites available on the colored LED strips and always spend time tweaking by adding yellow to get the warmness I want.
Quoted from PoMC:On my last 4 or 5 kits, I've used $4.88 Monster USB LED strips from Walmart (one per side). These have 4 white choices (no colors which I don't want anyway) and brightness controls on the remote and I like the day/warm setting the best. But on sci-fi games like SST, the cooler settings looked great. With 4 white temperatures to choose from, these are a great choice for any game.
I've never been happy with the whites available on the colored LED strips and always spend time tweaking by adding yellow to get the warmness I want.
Because those are USB I take it they are 6v?
Quoted from MustangPaul:Because those are USB I take it they are 6v?
Yup, these are the ones.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Monster-Inc-Led-Light-Strip-Wht/155572606
Quoted from PoMC:Yup, these are the ones.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Monster-Inc-Led-Light-Strip-Wht/155572606
Where did you get 5v on the game?
Quoted from MustangPaul:Where did you get 5v on the game?
What I love about these is I use the service outlet since I power my pins off/on with a master switch. I don't care to tie into the GI. So I run a 4' extension cord from the service outlet to the rear of the cabinet. The USB power supplies plug into that and the USB cables to the strips. These work so great with the whites...I just bought them on a lark when I saw them and figured I'd test them out.
Quoted from MustangPaul:So does the usb power supply come with it? The strip is cutable right?
Strip is cuttable and that's what I do to make it the length of the rail. No power supply. But since I save everything, I have a box full of them I use. 
I would love to add lighting to the back of my jurassic park, but im not sure where?
I have LED strips with alligator clips.
Quoted from Daditude:I would love to add lighting to the back of my jurassic park, but im not sure where?
I have LED strips with alligator clips.
12v strip?
Quoted from PoMC:Strip is cuttable and that's what I do to make it the length of the rail. No power supply. But since I save everything, I have a box full of them I use.
Thanks for the info.
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