Poor man's Stadium lighting

(Topic ID: 206424)

Poor man's Stadium lighting


By Fytr

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 450 posts
  • 98 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by Daditude
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#351 7 months ago

Yeah mine is with a Gotlieb Victory which is a system 80b and I just have the white LED's as well but with the board. I think why it might happen on some machines and not others has to due with how many hertz (I think that is the right word) are supplied to the AC circuit that powers the GI. As I understand it any light that runs on AC unless rectified turns on and off at the same rate that the ac is modulated at (Again I think that is the right word). So I wonder if for my Victory the 6.3 VAC is going at like idk 45 hz or something right on the edge of where peoples eyes can pick it up and perhaps your game runs the 6.3 VAC GI circuit at like 60 hz or something where our eyes simply cannot pick up flicker/ strobe.

Quoted from Scorch:

I actually tried with the board first (with some different RGB LED's), and it was pulling too much current so the lights were switching on and off, so needed to get a second board (one for each row)... But before I tried that, I took the soft white LED's which were lower current, and ran them instead without the board, and it looked great.
I don't know if it makes a difference but my machine is a re-import so maybe there is something slightly different with the power supply? I'm planning on trying this on my newly acquired SST so will see if I have the strobing there.

#352 7 months ago

I think some of the issues with strips and flickering....as I use both the 5V and 6.3 versions, is when GI is instructed to fade...
Same reason an OCD board was needed?

#353 7 months ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

I think some of the issues with strips and flickering....as I use both the 5V and 6.3 versions, is when GI is instructed to fade...
Same reason an OCD board was needed?

I think you're right... this is from the LED OCD web page

"First, due to lamp matrix, each lamp has a series of timeslots in which it is capable of being turned on. Neither Stern or WPC games do any kind of PWM within these timeslots. If a lamp is on during its timeslot, it is on for the entire timeslot. Stern games, however, DO use a duty cycle method of dimming where every other timeslot is on (or every third, etc). I am not aware of any WPC games that do this."

So specifically on Stern games, and possibly others, it seems like they will dim the lighting by quickly turning on and off the lamps... since LED's are instant on-off this will show as a strobe, while incandescent take time to turn on and off, so this is smoothed.

#354 7 months ago

I often chose an always on GI Lamp, or an On/Off Lamp to attach to.
Off course turning Dim off on Games where one can.

I wonder if anyone who installed an OCD Board, in coordination, might have some input.

#355 7 months ago
Quoted from Scorch:

You do not need that relay in this set up.
I set it up this way hooking up my 5V LED strips directly to the GI... though I did not get the strobe other people are seeing so did not add the voltage stabilizer. I'm not sure if the reason I'm not getting the lack of strobe is because of the brand of LED's I'm using or maybe there's something in my pinball machine?
here's what I'm using.
amazon.com link »

Just to check - surely you have on outside power source to power the leds? I am making my pinstadiums so that the led-strips are connected to a wifi-box with which I can adjust the led-strips colors and then the wifi-box gets a 5V or 3V power from outside power source. I would need to get GI in the mix as e.g. in WOZ there are playmodes where all lights should be out.

#356 7 months ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

Just to check - surely you have on outside power source to power the leds? I am making my pinstadiums so that the led-strips are connected to a wifi-box with which I can adjust the led-strips colors and then the wifi-box gets a 5V or 3V power from outside power source. I would need to get GI in the mix as e.g. in WOZ there are playmodes where all lights should be out.

In that case, you do need the relay to turn on and off the LED's. I think the wifi module and RGB strips take alot more power than just the white LED's so you'll want them to be constantly powered, but then turn on and off when the GI turn on and off. You connect the relay to one of the GI's and then to the led strips. When the GI is on, the relay will send power to the LED's, and when they turn off, the relay will shut off power to the LED's. Honestly though, if you're going the route you're talking about, you might as well get some 12V led's which will allow a bit more brightness

What some of us are doing is fully powering the LED strips directly from the 5v GI, which is a slightly easier and cheaper solution, but you're more limited on the LED's you can use

#357 7 months ago
Quoted from Scorch:

In that case, you do need the relay to turn on and off the LED's. I think the wifi module and RGB strips take alot more power than just the white LED's so you'll want them to be constantly powered, but then turn on and off when the GI turn on and off. You connect the relay to one of the GI's and then to the led strips. When the GI is on, the relay will send power to the LED's, and when they turn off, the relay will shut off power to the LED's. Honestly though, if you're going the route you're talking about, you might as well get some 12V led's which will allow a bit more brightness
What some of us are doing is fully powering the LED strips directly from the 5v GI, which is a slightly easier and cheaper solution, but you're more limited on the LED's you can use

Yes, sorry, the outside power source is indeed 12V, but it is either 3A or 5A.

#358 7 months ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

Yes, sorry, the outside power source is indeed 12V, but it is either 3A or 5A.

Also for this setup you would not need the little board as you are using an external power supply so the voltage will already be rectified.

#359 7 months ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

Yes, sorry, the outside power source is indeed 12V, but it is either 3A or 5A.

I think you'll be fine with either 3A or 5A power supply (can't imagine you getting anywhere near that with 6' of led strips).

And ya... I forgot to mention you don't need that filter then... though how would that effect the relay? if the control line on the relay is seeing a constant on/off high frequency signal, will that strobe be passed through to the LED's?

#360 7 months ago

Thank you for your advice. Would it work e.g. for WOZ so that I would take power from its spotlight (which I believe are 12 V) to this WiFi-dongle (with which I can remotely select colors/brightness of the led-strip) and then connect the led-strip to the WiFi-dongle. That way I should not have to use any relays or outside power source and the led-strips would be in sync with the spotlights? Would the pin's power supply be sufficient in this case?

IMG_4133 (resized).JPG
#361 7 months ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

Thank you for your advice. Would it work e.g. for WOZ so that I would take power from its spotlight (which I believe are 12 V) to this WiFi-dongle (with which I can remotely select colors/brightness of the led-strip) and then connect the led-strip to the WiFi-dongle. That way I should not have to use any relays or outside power source and the led-strips would be in sync with the spotlights? Would the pin's power supply be sufficient in this case?

I'm not 100% sure, but I think your LED strips might pull a bit too much current. I quickly looked up the specs for a 12v, rgb strip with the larger 5050 SMDs and a wifi controller, and it showed a max output of 15watt/m so 30 watt for 2 strips @ 12V = 2.5 amps. Seems like a bit too much and might blow your fuse.... if you're using smaller SMD's like 3528's it drops down to about 0.8 amps which might be ok, and I assume considerably less if you go with a single color as opposed to a wifi controlled multi color.

Note: I'm sure those wattages in the spec sheet are based on all colors of LED's on the strip on and at full brightness, so total draw will probably be less. You should also check with the vendor that sold them to you to find out what the wattage is of the set you purchased

2 weeks later
#362 6 months ago

So I followed the post in #279 exactly, and just couldn't get the lighting to be integrated with the GI. What happened is when I touch the +ve and -ve leads for the GI trigger together, the lights go on. So when I hook them up to +ve and -ve from the GI, it just turns the led strips on regardless of whether there is power to the GI or not.

Only real difference is that I was using a 5V led strip, and was powering the relay with 5V instead of 12v (using a relay designed for 5V operation)

In the end, I went for an always on situation... which still is pretty good.

#363 6 months ago

And FYI.... the easiest way to set this up with absolutely no wiring required at all is to plug in the LED's into the service outlet inside the cabinet (which is always on), but then power your pinball machine using a smart outlet that cuts power to the machine completely.

Something like this... where you can stick the on/off button next to the pinball on/off switch.
amazon.com link »

It has the bonus of having an 11 hour timer, so if you forget to turn off your games, it'll shut them down after 11 hours.

or you can use something like this...
amazon.com link » Where you have all your pins turn on when a single pin is turned.

#364 6 months ago
Quoted from Scorch:

So I followed the post in #279 exactly, and just couldn't get the lighting to be integrated with the GI. What happened is when I touch the +ve and -ve leads for the GI trigger together, the lights go on. So when I hook them up to +ve and -ve from the GI, it just turns the led strips on regardless of whether there is power to the GI or not.
Only real difference is that I was using a 5V led strip, and was powering the relay with 5V instead of 12v (using a relay designed for 5V operation)
In the end, I went for an always on situation... which still is pretty good.

Can you post a picture of how your wiring is setup? I’d be happy to try to assist.

2 weeks later
#365 5 months ago

Tonight I'll be (live) streaming at around 8PM EST. my simple DIY version from beginning to (hopefully) end; feel free to stop by and see if what I do make sense

https://www.facebook.com/oneipodonepinball/

or

https://www.twitch.tv/oneipodonepinball

~ja

40330470_725671267782187_5446648736174309376_o (resized).jpg
1 month later
#366 4 months ago

What are people using, where are people the Angle or U Channel from?

Looking for black u channel, but there is so much to choose from online.

#367 4 months ago
Quoted from _xizor:

What are people using, where are people the Angle or U Channel from?
Looking for black u channel, but there is so much to choose from online.

I get 1/2 angle at Lowe's for about $4 each for 3' pieces, then spray them satin black.

#368 4 months ago

Did another install on a Waterworld tonight. In this instance, the total change is not huge, but the sides of the playfield against the cabinet and the back of the playfield under the backbox overhang really popped out. This will allow me to add some blue GI lights without making the overall lighting look clown pukey.

20181009_195942 (resized).jpg
#369 4 months ago

.

#370 4 months ago
Quoted from JodyG:

Did another install on a Waterworld tonight. In this instance, the total change is not huge, but the sides of the playfield against the cabinet and the back of the playfield under the backbox overhang really popped out. This will allow me to add some blue GI lights without making the overall lighting look clown pukey.
[quoted image]

That helped a lot, the pf width wise looks full now.

#371 4 months ago

Also note that there are no unsightly gaps between the light rail and the cabinet when you do the flush mount magnet method of install.

20181009_202641 (resized).jpg
#372 4 months ago
Quoted from JodyG:

Did another install on a Waterworld tonight. In this instance, the total change is not huge, but the sides of the playfield against the cabinet and the back of the playfield under the backbox overhang really popped out. This will allow me to add some blue GI lights without making the overall lighting look clown pukey.
[quoted image]

Looks great.

What kind of led strips did you use and is there any G.I. light integration or are they on all the time?

Also why kind of magnetic tape did you use? Any issues with it not holding?

#373 4 months ago
Quoted from Fytr:

Looks great.
What kind of led strips did you use and is there any G.I. light integration or are they on all the time?
Also why kind of magnetic tape did you use? Any issues with it not holding?

Here are the lights I use: amazon.com link »

I usually tap into the main constant 5V, but this time I tapped into playfield GI. I am torn on whether I like this, because there are times when all the PF lights are off and you have to shoot the ball.

Installation: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/poor-mans-stadium-lighting/page/7#post-4478368

#374 4 months ago
Quoted from _xizor:

What are people using, where are people the Angle or U Channel from?
Looking for black u channel, but there is so much to choose from online.

I have purchased some 1/2" aluminum angle (black anodized) from ebay. But, I don't see them listed anymore.

Ideally, I'd like to find some off-set leg aluminum channel, but I'm not sure of what "other" leg length would be idea. I need to play around with some different lengths to figure it out. The reason for the off-set leg is to have a little bit of overhang like the invisi-shield of the pin stadium lighting. Otherwise you could glue/tape two pieces of aluminum angle to achieve the same results.

If anyone as looked into this and knows what the best length of the "off-set" leg should be, please let me know. Or if you have a link to a product that you think works well, please post it.

#375 4 months ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

I have purchased some 1/2" aluminum angle (black anodized) from ebay. But, I don't see them listed anymore.
Ideally, I'd like to find some off-set leg aluminum channel, but I'm not sure of what "other" leg length would be idea. I need to play around with some different lengths to figure it out. The reason for the off-set leg is to have a little bit of overhang like the invisi-shield of the pin stadium lighting. Otherwise you could glue/tape two pieces of aluminum angle to achieve the same results.
If anyone as looked into this and knows what the best length of the "off-set" leg should be, please let me know. Or if you have a link to a product that you think works well, please post it.

On the stream I did weeks ago, I talked about the angle I used and all the other elements I used:

Best,

~ja

#376 4 months ago

Hello

I have a question that i hope fytr can help answer?

In your post about using the GI to activate the relay, you wrote this:

Connect the LED Controller to the Relay, 12v Power Adapter, and GI output as follows:
Note that I am using channel #2 on the relay in this setup, you could use channel #1 if you wanted instead, or a single channel relay.
Configure this relay by installing the provided jumper to connect the COM and HIGH pins for S2 (channel 2). This tells the relay that for channel 2 it should activate when a positive (high) signal is received at IN2 (turn on the 12v juice to the LED controller when the GI is lit).
Power Adapter + -> Relay DC +
Power Adapter - -> Relay DC -
LED Controller + -> Relay NO2
LED Controller - -> Relay DC -
Relay COM2 -> Relay DC -
GI bulb + -> Relay IN2
GI bulb - -> Relay DC -

But according to the image you attached, this line doesn't exactly match the image:

Relay COM2 -> Relay DC -

As far as i can see from the image, you have attached Relay COM2 to the DC + terminal, and not the DC - terminal as the instructions say.

Can you confirm what Relay COM2 should be connected to?

Thanks!

relay wiring (resized).jpg
#377 4 months ago

I think i figured it out. It seems that the image is correct, and there is an error in the description. Perhaps this should be corrected for future reference? If i am correct COM2 should go to DC+

If i do the above and do some testing with a 9V battery instead of the rectified GI voltage, it works.

However when i connect the GI, the fuse for that particular GI string blows. So somethings not right somewhere in my setup...

#378 4 months ago
Quoted from Phantasize:

I think i figured it out. It seems that the image is correct, and there is an error in the description. Perhaps this should be corrected for future reference? If i am correct COM2 should go to DC+
If i do the above and do some testing with a 9V battery instead of the rectified GI voltage, it works.
However when i connect the GI, the fuse for that particular GI string blows. So somethings not right somewhere in my setup...

Hi, you are absolutely right COM2 should connect to DC+ !

That way when the GI is on the led controller will be also, and visa versa.

I’ll edit the original posting.

If your gi circuit is blowing fuses you have a short somewhere. Assuming it was fine until you add the connection to the relay it must be your connection. Did you modify a non-ghosting led bulb like I described or is it just connected to the bulb socket +/- directly?

Make sure the gi bulb wire goes to dc - and in2 on the relay.

#379 4 months ago

Hello

Actually neither. I have a small rectifier circuit board I put before the relay, and then I attach the rectified + part to IN2, on the relay board and the rectified - part to dc- on the relay board.

But nevertheless I keep burning the fuse. But without the rectifier attached to the relay board (and a new fuse) the GI works again. And as I mentioned if I use a 9v battery instead of GI to trigger the relay it also works. So it is quite strange.

However as I actually really hate the clicking from the relay, I am working in another solution using an optocoupler. Strange thing is that I actually had this optocoupler solution working when set up using a temporary breadboard solution. But after soldering the components to a prototyping PCB, I blow fuses again.... So I am quite frustrated now...

May I ask what machine you have the relay solution working in? Any WPC machines?

#380 4 months ago

I did mine on Metallica so Stern Spike, haven’t done a WPC game.

Are you certain the + from your rectifier board isn’t attaching to DC - on the relay?

Added 22 days ago:

EDIT> Metallica is a Stern SAM boardset, not Spike.

#381 4 months ago
Quoted from Fytr:

Are you certain the + from your rectifier board isn’t attaching to DC - on the relay?

Yes everything has been double checked twice. And according to my electronics guy, it will never work on a WPC machine as long as "both sides of the circuit" share the same ground.

#382 4 months ago

Here is what ended up working for me on my WPC machine for GI control of the LED's. Using the optocoupler completely separates the GI side from the LED side. I just used some components i already had lying around, but any FET transistor should do as long as it is wired correctly. The same goes for the optocoupler.

I have the LED+ and LED- attached to the Bluetooth LED controller, and it works like a charm.

Furthermore i have a UV LED strip attached in the same L-channel mold that is attached to 4 different flashers (remember diodes if you are doing this!!). So i now have controllable RGBW light with GI on/off effect facing out towards the playfield, and UV flasher light facing downwards.

Optocoupler_GI_Control (resized).jpg
#383 4 months ago
Quoted from Phantasize:

Here is what ended up working for me on my WPC machine for GI control of the LED's. Using the optocoupler completely separates the GI side from the LED side. I just used some components i already had lying around, but any FET transistor should do as long as it is wired correctly. The same goes for the optocoupler.
I have the LED+ and LED- attached to the Bluetooth LED controller, and it works like a charm.
Furthermore i have a UV LED strip attached in the same L-channel mold that is attached to 4 different flashers (remember diodes if you are doing this!!). So i now have controllable RGBW light with GI on/off effect facing out towards the playfield, and UV flasher light facing downwards.[quoted image]

This is great. For us that can't read electrical symbols, can someone change to show pictures?

#384 4 months ago
Quoted from Phantasize:

Yes everything has been double checked twice. And according to my electronics guy, it will never work on a WPC machine as long as "both sides of the circuit" share the same ground.

It is possible to isolate the LED circuit from the GI circuit using the relay module I used. This module uses an optocoupler as well to trigger the relay to open/close. The downside is that the relay module itself requires 12v power to operate, so to isolate the LED strips circuit you would need 2 x 12v power sources/adapters. One that plugs into the relay DC+/- connections to power the relay, and another (at least 1.5a- 2amp rated) to power the LEDs that would plug into the COM2/NO2 lines on the relay.

You would configure this by connecting the LED 12v power to the LED controller, but make a splice in the + wire such that both ends are inserted the NO2/COM2 connectors on the relay. You would *not* connect the COM2 to the DC+ connector at all in this scenario. With this setup, when the GI is powered the 12v power connected to DC+/- powers the relay to close the relay, which in turn completes the +/- connection on the completely isolated LED 12v circuit.

Was poking around and I *think* if a solid-state relay was used, such as this one (amazon.com link ») that would solve the need for the 12v power for the mechanical relay I used, and still provide circuit isolation??

Quoted from Phantasize:

Here is what ended up working for me on my WPC machine for GI control of the LED's. Using the optocoupler completely separates the GI side from the LED side. I just used some components i already had lying around, but any FET transistor should do as long as it is wired correctly. The same goes for the optocoupler.
I have the LED+ and LED- attached to the Bluetooth LED controller, and it works like a charm.
Furthermore i have a UV LED strip attached in the same L-channel mold that is attached to 4 different flashers (remember diodes if you are doing this!!). So i now have controllable RGBW light with GI on/off effect facing out towards the playfield, and UV flasher light facing downwards.[quoted image]

This is awesome! Does the 1N4004 diode on the GI-in line act as a recitifer to change the incoming 6.7vac to something like 3.5vdc (by blocking 1/2 the AC cycle)?

It would be great if you could share a specific parts list and assembly instuctions for this board.

#385 4 months ago
Quoted from Phantasize:

Here is what ended up working for me on my WPC machine for GI control of the LED's. Using the optocoupler completely separates the GI side from the LED side. I just used some components i already had lying around, but any FET transistor should do as long as it is wired correctly. The same goes for the optocoupler.
I have the LED+ and LED- attached to the Bluetooth LED controller, and it works like a charm.
Furthermore i have a UV LED strip attached in the same L-channel mold that is attached to 4 different flashers (remember diodes if you are doing this!!). So i now have controllable RGBW light with GI on/off effect facing out towards the playfield, and UV flasher light facing downwards.[quoted image]

How do the UV LED's look? In my experience they're very dim.

#386 4 months ago
Quoted from dudah:

How do the UV LED's look? In my experience they're very dim.

They actually are quite dim. I think there could be big differences from machine to machine depending on the playfield. But in my STTNG the effect isn't quite what I had hoped for. But it still adds a little effect. Besides the playfield perhaps not being the most UV friendly out there, I also think that the fact they are facing straight down takes a lot of the effect.

I am considering doing it with a couple of small pure white strips the next time, or perhaps using a simple RGB strip so that I can hook each of the different colours up to different flashers. For instance in my STTNG there is a green flasher in the ship in the upper left corner so the green color of the led strip could be hooked up to that and so on...

The reason I used UV flashers this time was actually just to see what it would take to achieve the exact same functionality as a real Pin Stadium solution.

However I am currently using 12V for the UV flashers, and I think I might try hooking them up to the 20V that the flashers in the machine uses. I think the UV strip might actually be able to handle the higher voltage, and perhaps that would make the UV effect a little more visible.

#387 4 months ago
Quoted from Fytr:

This is awesome! Does the 1N4004 diode on the GI-in line act as a recitifer to change the incoming 6.7vac to something like 3.5vdc (by blocking 1/2 the AC cycle)?
It would be great if you could share a specific parts list and assembly instuctions for this board.

Yeah the single 1N4004 diode in combination with the 25uF capacitor is just a really simple "rectifier". It results in about 4.4V DC from the GI. I don't believe the input voltage for the optocoupler is all that important as long as it's below 10V, so you could also use a more correct rectifier circuit with 4 diodes. But for simplicity this one was built with just the one diode.

I can easily do a parts list, but for now i do not have a complete assembly instruction. But i have a overview of how exactly i build it on a perfboard (pcb prototype board). The circuit is quite forgiving in the different values for resistors and capacitors, as long as they are pretty similar.

Components used:

1 x 1N4004 diode
1 x 470 ohm resistor (Anything close to that value should be ok)
1 x 1 mega ohm resistor (Anything around that value should be ok)
1 x 25uF / 30V electrolytic capacitor (Can easily be a higher uF value and from 25V and up)
1 x IRL540N MOS-FET transistor (A similar FET can be used as long as you take care to connect Gate, Drain and Source correct)
1 x SFH601-3 optocoupler (I used this because i had it laying around. But a 4N25 should work as well with the same pinout)

So a total of 5 cheap components in total, either soldered together or by using a small perfboard. My board have a connection for Flashers as well, but you don't need to include this if you dont need it.

The +12V and GND can either come from a separate PSU, or as in my case directtly from my STTNG's 12V output on J117-2 (+) and J117-3 (-)

LED GI Control perfboard_EDIT (resized).jpg
2 months later
#388 54 days ago

fytr et al; THANK YOU for this fantastic thread! My pinball budget doesn’t quite allow for Pinstadium lights yet (though they are awesome), and my games are old enough that they don’t need a lot of color changing / features, etc.

I used essentially the same scheme on my Meteor as fytr ‘s very first post, and it turned out great! Only differences were:
- I didn’t use a controller, wired directly into the regulated GI circuit
- I used regular brushed aluminum, not black pre-finished (I like the look and it is readily-available at my Home Depot)
- I already had a blue LED strip at the drain, which you can see in the pics

It turned out great! You can see two sets of results below: with the room lights on and off. It isn’t as drastic of a change as with Pinstadiums, but it lights up the plastics and the better part of the playfield beautifully, and it was $25.

Going to move on to my other pins soon!

13BE68EB-CB07-4293-8E35-448242EA40DD (resized).jpeg21217DAC-B742-4433-81DF-DC63AE5F7E92 (resized).jpeg
#389 54 days ago
Quoted from Phantasize:

Yeah the single 1N4004 diode in combination with the 25uF capacitor is just a really simple "rectifier". It results in about 4.4V DC from the GI. I don't believe the input voltage for the optocoupler is all that important as long as it's below 10V, so you could also use a more correct rectifier circuit with 4 diodes. But for simplicity this one was built with just the one diode.
I can easily do a parts list, but for now i do not have a complete assembly instruction. But i have a overview of how exactly i build it on a perfboard (pcb prototype board). The circuit is quite forgiving in the different values for resistors and capacitors, as long as they are pretty similar.
Components used:
1 x 1N4004 diode
1 x 470 ohm resistor (Anything close to that value should be ok)
1 x 1 mega ohm resistor (Anything around that value should be ok)
1 x 25uF / 30V electrolytic capacitor (Can easily be a higher uF value and from 25V and up)
1 x IRL540N MOS-FET transistor (A similar FET can be used as long as you take care to connect Gate, Drain and Source correct)
1 x SFH601-3 optocoupler (I used this because i had it laying around. But a 4N25 should work as well with the same pinout)
So a total of 5 cheap components in total, either soldered together or by using a small perfboard. My board have a connection for Flashers as well, but you don't need to include this if you dont need it.
The +12V and GND can either come from a separate PSU, or as in my case directtly from my STTNG's 12V output on J117-2 (+) and J117-3 (-)[quoted image]

This is great! I want to build one of these but currently don't have a game that needs the lighting.

#390 54 days ago
Quoted from jmmasterson:

fytr et al; THANK YOU for this fantastic thread! My pinball budget doesn’t quite allow for Pinstadium lights yet (though they are awesome), and my games are old enough that they don’t need a lot of color changing / features, etc.
I used essentially the same scheme on my Meteor as fytr ‘s very first post, and it turned out great! Only differences were:
- I didn’t use a controller, wired directly into the regulated GI circuit
- I used regular brushed aluminum, not black pre-finished (I like the look and it is readily-available at my Home Depot)
- I already had a blue LED strip at the drain, which you can see in the pics
It turned out great! You can see two sets of results below: with the room lights on and off. It isn’t as drastic of a change as with Pinstadiums, but it lights up the plastics and the better part of the playfield beautifully, and it was $25.
Going to move on to my other pins soon!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Yeah no need to overthink it on these older SS games - that looks fantastic!

1 week later
#391 46 days ago
Quoted from Fytr:

Yeah no need to overthink it on these older SS games - that looks fantastic!

Agreed; just tied ‘em in directly to the playfield GI. The only game I have with playfield GI effects is the simply flash on Sorcerer, and it works great with this homemade stadium setup.

I did a lather, rinse, repeat on the OP’s method for my other four games today (3 SS’s and an EM), you can see the results in the attached! The most noticeable was on Gorgar (not counting the obvious change in Sorcerer, but that is because I had a GI issue to work out as well).

Thank you again for this fantastic thread!

3B2F25B4-9B83-4B75-94D3-0DFF0077717F (resized).jpeg645F17A5-73CF-43C8-B695-DACE060229CF (resized).jpeg816B6496-C5B1-46B7-BC0D-BA6B8C68A61C (resized).jpeg55818D94-90E4-4FCF-B4A7-931461B6714B (resized).jpeg
1 week later
#392 40 days ago

Also, thanks to the learning process from this thread, I was able to use my leftover 30” of LEDs to light the lid and inside of my record console. It’s like the gift that keeps on giving!

BBD9154A-831F-4904-9167-0E8AB0269DA5 (resized).jpeg
#393 40 days ago
Quoted from jmmasterson:

Also, thanks to the learning process from this thread, I was able to use my leftover 30” of LEDs to light the lid and inside of my record console. It’s like the gift that keeps on giving!
[quoted image]

Fancy!

2 weeks later
#394 26 days ago

I am trying to add "poor mans" stadium lights ro my Funhouse pin. But my issue is the razor thin clearance between the PF and the cabinet. The mag tape I have is .100" thick. And that is too thick for the gap. Simply no way it can work.

So I need a mag tape that is significantly thinner that that...more along the lines of .020" or so. Anyone know where it can be had? I have searched high and low.

#395 26 days ago
Quoted from _xizor:

What are people using, where are people the Angle or U Channel from?
Looking for black u channel, but there is so much to choose from online.

I use black plastic corner guard from koffers. It's light and doesn't need to be painted.

I use comet sunlight 50 and 20 strips per side with there quick connect and thin Velcro.

I500 has them, Getaway doesnt.

Resized_20181214_203240_9768 (resized).jpeg
#396 26 days ago
Quoted from Brijam:

Very cool!
I saw what looks to be the same thing but 6 for $20 USD on Amazon US:
Muzata 6PACK 1M/3.3ft V-Shape LED Aluminum Channel System with PC Cover, Complete Mounting Accessories,Suit For 3528, 5050 & 5630 Strip Lights Installation
amazon.com link »
I'm ordering some to try out.

Hey just wondering if you ever tried these mounts with the diffusers and if so how did they work?

#397 26 days ago
Quoted from wrd1972:

I am trying to add "poor mans" stadium lights ro my Funhouse pin. But my issue is the razor thin clearance between the PF and the cabinet. The mag tape I have is .100" thick. And that is too thick for the gap. Simply no way it can work.
So I need a mag tape that is significantly thinner that that...more along the lines of .020" or so. Anyone know where it can be had? I have searched high and low.

I used this:
amazon.com link »

It's 1/16" thick.

#398 25 days ago
Quoted from wrd1972:

I am trying to add "poor mans" stadium lights ro my Funhouse pin. But my issue is the razor thin clearance between the PF and the cabinet. The mag tape I have is .100" thick. And that is too thick for the gap. Simply no way it can work.
So I need a mag tape that is significantly thinner that that...more along the lines of .020" or so. Anyone know where it can be had? I have searched high and low.

see this post : https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/poor-mans-stadium-lighting/page/7#post-4478368

I'd buy some of those strong small magnets (neodymium) and buy and end mill to their O.D. and put two per side of cabinet .

#399 25 days ago
Quoted from fanuminski:

see this post : https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/poor-mans-stadium-lighting/page/7#post-4478368
I'd buy some of those strong small magnets (neodymium) and buy and end mill to their O.D. and put two per side of cabinet .

Flush mount magnets have been working perfectly so far. Plus, the installation is very clean. You can even paint them black on a game with a black cabinet. I just did my Police force last week. I didn't get to paint the rails black yet, though... The weather was way too cold.

20190122_153936 (resized).jpg
#400 25 days ago
Quoted from JodyG:

Flush mount magnets have been working perfectly so far. Plus, the installation is very clean. You can even paint them black on a game with a black cabinet. I just did my Police force last week. I didn't get to paint the rails black yet, though... The weather was way too cold.
[quoted image]

I bought a bunch of the magnets like you suggested and will be using them on my Gottlieb games cause most of there playfields are tight with little to no gap, I have 2 that actually rub when you open them. I built a drill fixture also, your Idea is great.

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