Poor man's Stadium lighting

(Topic ID: 206424)

Poor man's Stadium lighting


By Fytr

10 months ago



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There are 387 posts in this topic. You are on page 7 of 8.
#301 6 months ago

I installed the 5v LEDs and run them off the PF GI lights. I love that they go off with the PF lights (at certain time's the GI lights go off and come back on again) but when the lights are on they have a certain strobe effect at a very high frequency that messes with your eyes and reflects weirdly off the ball in play. I'm not quite sure how to solve that I wonder if 12 volt lights would be better but how do I attach them to the GI lighting so that they go on and off as they should. I was thinking a relay but how do you hook up 110 volt relay that is triggered by the 5 volt GI system?

#302 6 months ago
Quoted from ponyboy6039:

I installed the 5v LEDs and run them off the PF GI lights. I love that they go off with the PF lights (at certain time's the GI lights go off and come back on again) but when the lights are on they have a certain strobe effect at a very high frequency that messes with your eyes and reflects weirdly off the ball in play. I'm not quite sure how to solve that I wonder if 12 volt lights would be better but how do I attach them to the GI lighting so that they go on and off as they should. I was thinking a relay but how do you hook up 110 volt relay that is triggered by the 5 volt GI system?

Instructions are on post #279

1 week later
#303 5 months ago

Just finished installing homemade stadium lights and a pinduino in my ID4. Here is the attract more I coded.

#304 5 months ago

That's awesome! Love the windmill one.

#305 5 months ago

For about $44 I put together a cheap system that will also allow me to make another
set once I find a 12v to 120ac power supply and remote that I can use.
found most of the stuff on Amazon (I have prime so 2day shipping included)
I used velcro in 3 spots to attach the alum rails to the side.
remote control offers 100% (2nd pic) /50% /25 %(3rd pic) power to the warm white leds

Only part that sort of sucked was the soldering of wires to those led strips -
didn't have shrink tube so just used electrical tape.

Since I have overhead can lights- the reflection is sh!t on the glass - I like to play with
the lighting turned down - with the LED lighting, I can have them off!

1812 no led off (resized).jpg

1812 100% led (resized).jpg

1812 25%led (resized).jpg

#306 5 months ago
Quoted from fanuminski:

For about $44 I put together a cheap system that will also allow me to make another
set once I find a 12v to 120ac power supply and remote that I can use.
found most of the stuff on Amazon (I have prime so 2day shipping included)
I used velcro in 3 spots to attach the alum rails to the side.
remote control offers 100% (2nd pic) /50% /25 %(3rd pic) power to the warm white leds
Only part that sort of sucked bwas the soldering of wires to those led strips -
didn't have shrink tube so just used electrical tape.
Since I have overhead can lights- the reflection is sh!t on the glass - I like to play with
the lighting turned down - with the LED lighting, I can have them off!

Really brings out the PF colors on 1812!

Nicely done.

#307 5 months ago

Shadow looks awesome with bright warm white LEDs. Illuminates the battlefield nicely, you can see the ball get throw behind the wall, track the ball anywhere and the artwork on the playfield now stands out.

20180525_211353 (resized).jpg

20180523_192644 (1) (resized).jpg

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1 week later
#308 5 months ago

I did the same mod and have the 5v led strips attached to the GI. It works pretty well but it has some super fast on off issue, my wife and our non pinball friends couldn't really tell but I noticed it. The solution in 279 is to use a relay system and 12v led strips. My question here is, is there anyway we can help the strobe effect with these 5v led strips or is that always going to be an issue given they are 5v DC being powered by 6.3 v AC? Also would anyone have a link to some 6.3 Volt AC Led Strips (A role would be best 5m or so). As I would think if I just used the same voltage LED strip (If it exists), then it would no longer be an issue.

Quoted from hailrazer:

More
Instructions are on post #279

#309 5 months ago

I wonder if these would do it if they could just sell me a roll of the leds. He claims they are AC or DC and are fully rectified? Not really sure what is meant here. Thoughts?

https://wholesaler.alibaba.com/product-detail/6-3V-AC-Bonus-Strip-with_60715295184.html?spm=a2700.9099375.0.0.9bee13333xS3GO

Bonus Strip
They are made from the highest quality plastics and electronic components available.
Voltage 6.3 AC or DC, as these are fully rectified.
This Kit comes with Clips and Sockets 44 / 47 and 555
1 Strip of 6 LEDs/ 3 LEDS/ 7 LEDs

#310 5 months ago

I've finally completed my Metallica project.

The goal here was to take my existing Creeping Death light bars mod that mount along the ramps on each side of the PF (to provide a UV Flasher effect when Sparky goes off) and convert them to full on RGBW stadium lights while keeping the UV flasher effect.

I was waiting for some new magnetic tape to arrive after the first brand I bought failed to stick to anything for very long. I also had used some wire the first time that proved to be too heavy and cumbersome and make it difficult to keep the angle edge in place.

I covered the electrical components and wiring instructions back on post #297 (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/poor-mans-stadium-lighting/page/6#post-4352998). The work here was to attach RGBW 12v led strips to the unused side of the plastic creeping death L bars that would point across the playfield with the existing UV flashed LED strip pointing down onto the sideblades.

I've discovered that you can use old USB cables as a suitable method to connect the RGBW strips to the LED controller module. It's a bit of work to remove the ends and existing shielding and such but it's much easier to fit/solder these small wires onto the LED strip's solder pads, and the cables are compact, flexible, and light enough. A USB cable only provides 4 wires though so I used another 20g wire as well for the + connection (five wires total, RGBW+). I did test running the lights for several hours and the little USB wires were not even warm so I think they are large enough for this application.

The replacement magnetic strips I bought off ebay did the trick. I carefully cleaned (with alcohol) the surfaces first and mounted the tape, kept it snug with a few plastic clamps and left it to set overnight.

Here is a link to the tape I used (2mm thickness): ebay.com link » 3m One Side Self Adhesive Magnetic Tape Magnet Strip Width 1 2mm

BestLitPF (resized).JPG

It turned out really well, makes the PF pop and the UV lightshow I think is even better now when sparky goes off. When Sparky is down to 1 hit remaining and it's pulsating the UV LEDs it makes the PF pulsate blue and is a really subtle and nice effect as well.

Something to note is that because the L brackets are transparent plastic the led light "shines through" the inside edges a bit past where the decals cover the top. You can see this in the picture. I don't notice this at all once I start playing, etc. but it might bother some folks.

One other large advantage in my opinion is how it allows you to remove the existing light bars that clutter the left and right sides of the game, and also the factory spotlights over the slings. With those gone it really opens up the playfield!

#311 5 months ago
Quoted from darcangeloel:

I wonder if these would do it if they could just sell me a roll of the leds. He claims they are AC or DC and are fully rectified? Not really sure what is meant here. Thoughts?
https://wholesaler.alibaba.com/product-detail/6-3V-AC-Bonus-Strip-with_60715295184.html?spm=a2700.9099375.0.0.9bee13333xS3GO
Bonus Strip
They are made from the highest quality plastics and electronic components available.
Voltage 6.3 AC or DC, as these are fully rectified.
This Kit comes with Clips and Sockets 44 / 47 and 555
1 Strip of 6 LEDs/ 3 LEDS/ 7 LEDs

Are you looking for white? I have lots of rolls of color 6 volt led strips, red, green, blue.

#312 5 months ago
Quoted from Kawydud:

More
Are you looking for white? I have lots of rolls of color 6 volt led strips, red, green, blue.

Yeah warm white for now at least. I sent them an email to see if they could provide 5 meters or so of the led strip running on 6.3v AC. I'm thinking if we can make sure they don't flicker or ghost or whatever then we should be able to tie the LED strips in the GI circuit and skip buying all those external power supplies, relays, ect, ect. It's just a thought anyway

#313 5 months ago

I bought some rgbw led strips as well. Going to power the rgb from the bluetooth controller, then power the white off of the GI.

#314 5 months ago
Quoted from darcangeloel:

I wonder if these would do it if they could just sell me a roll of the leds. He claims they are AC or DC and are fully rectified? Not really sure what is meant here. Thoughts?
https://wholesaler.alibaba.com/product-detail/6-3V-AC-Bonus-Strip-with_60715295184.html?spm=a2700.9099375.0.0.9bee13333xS3GO
Bonus Strip
They are made from the highest quality plastics and electronic components available.
Voltage 6.3 AC or DC, as these are fully rectified.
This Kit comes with Clips and Sockets 44 / 47 and 555
1 Strip of 6 LEDs/ 3 LEDS/ 7 LEDs

The Picture shown is From Comet Pinball, I took the photo.
The manufacturer shown is autodragons.....one of the worst on Aliexpress or Alibaba.....

#315 5 months ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

More
The Picture shown is From Comet Pinball, I took the photo.
The manufacturer shown is autodragons.....one of the worst on Aliexpress or Alibaba.....

Oh good to know. I wonder if comet could sell me the led strips in the length I need.

#316 5 months ago
Quoted from darcangeloel:

Oh good to know. I wonder if comet could sell me the led strips in the length I need.

If you run strips that long you'll need 12v not 6v and run them from an external power supply, game 6v can't handle the power needed. Your looking at about 85 inches total. Isn't that correct Art?

#317 5 months ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

If you run strips that long you'll need 12v not 6v and run them from an external power supply, game 6v can't handle the power needed. Your looking at about 85 inches total. Isn't that correct Art?

So I'm running the 5v led strips now but they have a odd strobe to them and I can only see it when the ball is in play. It's playable but kind of like slow motion. Odd how it looks and hard for me to describe. Comet said right now they don't have any strips that big that are rectified. I guess I could try something like this ebay.com link within the circuit and see if it helps. I just worry about one of those caps discharging and back feeding the transistor/ board powering the circut. I would imagine the results to be quite bad. However if I could get that to safely work ir think it would be another decent option.

Here are some before and after pics btw. It os crazy how well the back of the game is now lit.

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#318 5 months ago

Also after all said and done it's around 70 inches.

#319 5 months ago

Is there another way to tie into the GI? I just have my diy lights coming on when the pin powers up - I have tried using a relay connected to the GI but I just get rapid strobing, which I believe is a AC / DC issue?

#320 5 months ago
Quoted from darcangeloel:

So I'm running the 5v led strips now but they have a odd strobe to them and I can only see it when the ball is in play. It's playable but kind of like slow motion. Odd how it looks and hard for me to describe. Comet said right now they don't have any strips that big that are rectified. I guess I could try something like this ebay.com link within the circuit and see if it helps. I just worry about one of those caps discharging and back feeding the transistor/ board powering the circut. I would imagine the results to be quite bad. However if I could get that to safely work ir think it would be another decent option.
Here are some before and after pics btw. It os crazy how well the back of the game is now lit.

Looks great but make it easy on yourself and get a 110v to 5v wall wart and plug it into the 110v service outlet.

#321 5 months ago

As a follow up I installed one of these and the issue is 100% resolved. amazon.com link »

So the leds strips are tied directly into the GI and with the above tiny and cheap board no more flickering.

#322 5 months ago
Quoted from darcangeloel:

As a follow up I installed one of these and the issue is 100% resolved. amazon.com link »
So the leds strips are tied directly into the GI and with the above tiny and cheap board no more flickering.

#323 5 months ago

Did some "natural white" LED strip on Congo tonight ebay.com link » 5m 10m 15m 20m 300leds 5630 Smd Waterproof Led Strip Lights Lamp Ultra Bright

Looks insane! Went with some magnetic strip (amazon.com link ») and it worked great. It used most of a roll so next one I'm going to use a few strips spaced out.

A little too bright. Have a manual dimmer arriving this week. ebay.com link

IMG_20180610_204559_477 (resized).jpgMVIMG_20180610_204629 (resized).jpg

#324 5 months ago

Wow, that looks great!

#325 5 months ago

Is there a way to have these be color changing depending on a flasher? I.e., it would be mainly associated with the GI and white, but when an object is hit (or something of that nature) that triggers a certain flasher, maybe these flash another color. I've looked up a Pinduino, but can't find how to use, or even where to purchase. Is it just an Arduino variant? I was trying to figure out if there was a way to handle this through relays, but figured I would ask here first.

#326 5 months ago
Quoted from maffewl:

Is there a way to have these be color changing depending on a flasher?

Yes.

Quoted from maffewl:

it would be mainly associated with the GI and white, but when an object is hit (or something of that nature) that triggers a certain flasher, maybe these flash another color.

You would need to buy RGBW or RGBWW 12 volt led strips.

Quoted from maffewl:

I've looked up a Pinduino, but can't find how to use, or even where to purchase. Is it just an Arduino variant?

Not needed for what you asked for.

Quoted from maffewl:

I was trying to figure out if there was a way to handle this through relays,

To be exact I would need to know what game as there can be small differences, but the same principles will apply to most machines. What you need to decide first is when the GI is off, do you still want the colored strips to activate or not. For an example lets say you do want flashing colors when the GI is dark so you need to connect the 12 volt power wire on the led strip to a constant 12 volt source. Then you need to ground the white or warm white led wire on the strip thru a relay which needs to be activated by the GI lights. Then you need to connect the red, green and blue led wires to the flasher transistors of your preference. No relay is needed for the colors as the transistor will turn them on and off. If you tell me what machine you want to add this to I can give better details.

ebay.com link » Supernight 5m 5050 Smd Rgbw Rgbww 300leds Led Strip Light Remote Dc12v Power

#327 5 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

To be exact I would need to know what game as there can be small differences, but the same principles will apply to most machines. What you need to decide first is when the GI is off, do you still want the colored strips to activate or not. For an example lets say you do want flashing colors when the GI is dark so you need to connect the 12 volt power wire on the led strip to a constant 12 volt source. Then you need to ground the white or warm white led wire on the strip thru a relay which needs to be activated by the GI lights. Then you need to connect the red, green and blue led wires to the flasher transistors of your preference. No relay is needed for the colors as the transistor will turn them on and off. If you tell me what machine you want to add this to I can give better details.

It would be interesting to have this information for WoZ!

#328 5 months ago
Quoted from Radius118:

It would be interesting to have this information for WoZ!

I have never play a WOZ yet. I just looked over the manual and see that the GI is RGB and individually controlled by a data line. So having on and off control of the white string to follow along with the game GI maybe a bit tough. As for the color strings control, this would be easy as there are 15 12 volt control points you can use for triggering the led strips. As far as GI control I would have to talk with Lloyd about this in depth to come up with an idea.

#329 5 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Yes.

You would need to buy RGBW or RGBWW 12 volt led strips.

Not needed for what you asked for.

To be exact I would need to know what game as there can be small differences, but the same principles will apply to most machines. What you need to decide first is when the GI is off, do you still want the colored strips to activate or not. For an example lets say you do want flashing colors when the GI is dark so you need to connect the 12 volt power wire on the led strip to a constant 12 volt source. Then you need to ground the white or warm white led wire on the strip thru a relay which needs to be activated by the GI lights. Then you need to connect the red, green and blue led wires to the flasher transistors of your preference. No relay is needed for the colors as the transistor will turn them on and off. If you tell me what machine you want to add this to I can give better details.
ebay.com link » Supernight 5m 5050 Smd Rgbw Rgbww 300leds Led Strip Light Remote Dc12v Power

Awesome, it would be interesting to know how to do this with Baywatch or WWF Royal Rumble.

#330 5 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

I have never play a WOZ yet. I just looked over the manual and see that the GI is RGB and individually controlled by a data line. So having on and off control of the white string to follow along with the game GI maybe a bit tough. As for the color strings control, this would be easy as there are 15 12 volt control points you can use for triggering the led strips. As far as GI control I would have to talk with Lloyd about this in depth to come up with an idea.

Here are some links for pinstadium instructions. It looks like they are using the 12v feed to the throne room LED strip for the GI and tapping into the red LEDs at the witch?

https://pinstadium.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/ECLE_GI.jpg
https://pinstadium.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/wozstandard.jpg
https://pinstadium.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/2.0flasher.jpg

It's a little difficult to see from those pics.

#331 5 months ago
Quoted from maffewl:

Awesome, it would be interesting to know how to do this with Baywatch or WWF Royal Rumble.

So lets say you were going to do WWF. Does the GI turn off and on during game play? Can you post a pic of the GI relay. Can you make a idc connector cable? Also what do you want to connect each led color too.

1 week later
#332 4 months ago

with the mirror pinblades do you ever put the led strip on the top lip and have it shine down the mirror? or have you found any situation that having it on the top lip is better?

#333 4 months ago

Picked up a Hollywood Heat and gave it the cheap ass stadium light treatment. Really changes the game!

20180625_164508 (resized).jpg
#334 4 months ago

Any reason why you couldn't just stick some of these metal plates on sides of the pin and glue some rare earth magnets to the channels?

amazon.com link »

Seems like this would be a much better solution than the magnetic tape, as these plates are ultra thin (0.025" or 0.6mm)

51wwffRWemL._SL1200_ (resized).jpg
#335 4 months ago
Quoted from Scorch:

Any reason why you couldn't just stick some of these metal plates on sides of the pin and glue some rare earth magnets to the channels?
amazon.com link »
Seems like this would be a much better solution than the magnetic tape, as these plates are ultra thin (0.025" or 0.6mm)

I have found that for my System 80B games, there is literally no clearance between the playfield and the cabinet. Shocking such a "crappy" manufacturer has such close tolerances? Anyway, I am going to make a jig to spot face the cabinet to accept my 1/2" round by 1/16" thick rare earth magnets from eBay (50 pcs/$10 shipped), and the epoxy those magnets flush inside the cabinet. Then epoxy some .020" thick metal banding you see used on skids to the back of my aluminum light channels. This should make a super clean, tight fit. There will only be a .020 gap between the cabinet and light rails. So basically the same thing you are suggesting, but flipped.

20180702_074846 (resized).jpg
#336 4 months ago

I did my first conversion using flush mount magnets imbedded in the cabinet... Works great, and does not affect playfield removal!

I used a 1/2 center cutting 2-flute endmill with a shaft collar attached to it so I could cut to the perfect depth. I press fit a hardened drill bushing into a block of steel to act as a guide and a stop for the endmill. Then, just glue the magnets in flush with 5 minute epoxy, glue the strapping to your light strips, and install. I'll be doing this to all of my machines, and getting rid of the black magnets. The gap between the light strip and the cabinet is almost zero.

20180704_114050 (resized).jpg20180704_114535 (resized).jpg20180704_114614 (resized).jpg20180704_115647 (resized).jpg20180704_115713 (resized).jpg20180704_120154 (resized).jpg20180704_125902 (resized).jpg20180704_125914 (resized).jpg20180704_130202 (resized).jpg
#337 4 months ago
Quoted from JodyG:

I did my first conversion using flush mount magnets imbedded in the cabinet... Works great, and does not affect playfield removal!
I used a 1/2 center cutting 2-flute endmill with a shaft collar attached to it so I could cut to the perfect depth. I press fit a hardened drill bushing into a block of steel to act as a guide and a stop for the endmill. Then, just glue the magnets in flush with 5 minute epoxy, glue the strapping to your light strips, and install. I'll be doing this to all of my machines, and getting rid of the black magnets. The gap between the light strip and the cabinet is almost zero.

That's very cool! I'd be terrified of trying to drill into my cabinet though with my, uh, "skills".

How many magnets did you need to use to securely hold each light bar?

#338 4 months ago
Quoted from Fytr:

That's very cool! I'd be terrified of trying to drill into my cabinet though with my, uh, "skills".
How many magnets did you need to use to securely hold each light bar?

The collar on the drill bit helps you only drill what's needed I used a single 1/2" diameter by 1/16" thick rare earth magnet on each end of the angle aluminum.

#339 4 months ago

If the clearance between cabinet and playfield is tight and one has put velcro/magnet tape on the cabinet sides, the PU assembly blades may help in rising the playfield without damaging the velcro/magnet tape: https://pu-parts.com/assembly-blades
I have learned to use them and they are great in protecting the cabinet.

#340 4 months ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

If the clearance between cabinet and playfield is tight and one has put velcro/magnet tape on the cabinet sides, the PU assembly blades may help in rising the playfield without damaging the velcro/magnet tape: https://pu-parts.com/assembly-blades
I have learned to use them and they are great in protecting the cabinet.

I have those and they really help. Got them from PBL.

#341 4 months ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

I have those and they really help. Got them from PBL.

got a link to them?

#342 4 months ago
Quoted from fanuminski:

got a link to them?

Used to be this link..but doesn't look like they sell em any longer, and Pinball Universe doesn't appear to ship outside of europe.
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=4575

hmmm.....

Added 128 days ago:

Update 7.10 PBL has them back in stock...same link as above

#344 4 months ago

So I also hooked up some 5v strips directly to GI, and didn't have any strobing issues (at least not to my eye).

I was worried about pulling too much current, but here are my calculations (correct me if I'm wrong)

In my data east LAH, there are Probably about 50 lights in the GI and backbox. I assume they are all on the same circuit but maybe I'm wrong?

standard bulbs pull about 1.5 watts but high intensity LED's are about 0.95watts. So by replacing 50 bulbs, I'm reducing the load by 27.5 watts.

I believe the strips I'm using are between 3-5 watts each, so 2 strips would only be up to 10 watts.

Out of curiosity though... am I wrong to assume that the worst thing that could happen by overloading the circuit is a blown fuse?

#345 4 months ago
Quoted from Scorch:

So I also hooked up some 5v strips directly to GI, and didn't have any strobing issues (at least not to my eye).
I was worried about pulling too much current, but here are my calculations (correct me if I'm wrong)
In my data east LAH, there are Probably about 50 lights in the GI and backbox. I assume they are all on the same circuit but maybe I'm wrong?
standard bulbs pull about 1.5 watts but high intensity LED's are about 0.95watts. So by replacing 50 bulbs, I'm reducing the load by 27.5 watts.
I believe the strips I'm using are between 3-5 watts each, so 2 strips would only be up to 10 watts.
Out of curiosity though... am I wrong to assume that the worst thing that could happen by overloading the circuit is a blown fuse?

Sound about right to me.

1 week later
#346 3 months ago
Quoted from darcangeloel:

As a follow up I installed one of these and the issue is 100% resolved. amazon.com link »
So the leds strips are tied directly into the GI and with the above tiny and cheap board no more flickering.

Does one then need this relay at all? ebay.com link

#347 3 months ago

Any pictures or video of pinball magic?

#348 3 months ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

Does one then need this relay at all? ebay.com link

You do not need that relay in this set up.

I set it up this way hooking up my 5V LED strips directly to the GI... though I did not get the strobe other people are seeing so did not add the voltage stabilizer. I'm not sure if the reason I'm not getting the lack of strobe is because of the brand of LED's I'm using or maybe there's something in my pinball machine?

here's what I'm using.

amazon.com link »

#349 3 months ago

nepi23 scorch - is correct. You do not need a relay for this. When the GI turns off the LED strips turn off with it. As to why some people have flickering and some people don't IDK. The odd thing about it is non pinball people couldn't really see the strobing issue at least not until I pointed it out. Pinball people noticed as soon as the game started and the ball was in play. I would say if you have time, build the setup without the board and see if you have an issue. If not, great you are done! If so, simply buy the cheap little board and the problem will be solved.

Quoted from Scorch:

You do not need that relay in this set up.
I set it up this way hooking up my 5V LED strips directly to the GI... though I did not get the strobe other people are seeing so did not add the voltage stabilizer. I'm not sure if the reason I'm not getting the lack of strobe is because of the brand of LED's I'm using or maybe there's something in my pinball machine?
here's what I'm using.
amazon.com link »

#350 3 months ago
Quoted from darcangeloel:

nepi23 scorch - is correct. You do not need a relay for this. When the GI turns off the LED strips turn off with it. As to why some people have flickering and some people don't IDK. The odd thing about it is non pinball people couldn't really see the strobing issue at least not until I pointed it out. Pinball people noticed as soon as the game started and the ball was in play. I would say if you have time, build the setup without the board and see if you have an issue. If not, great you are done! If so, simply buy the cheap little board and the problem will be solved.

I actually tried with the board first (with some different RGB LED's), and it was pulling too much current so the lights were switching on and off, so needed to get a second board (one for each row)... But before I tried that, I took the soft white LED's which were lower current, and ran them instead without the board, and it looked great.

I don't know if it makes a difference but my machine is a re-import so maybe there is something slightly different with the power supply? I'm planning on trying this on my newly acquired SST so will see if I have the strobing there.

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