Medusa
Bally, 1981Quoted from QuarterGrabber:Is there a way i can rewire the inside of the power tap box to make the power only active when the machine is turned on?
Yes.
Quoted from QuarterGrabber:Does anyone have pics of one rewired for this?
Here is one, it would be best for you to take a pic of your machine as they changed things over the years. Remember to unplug the machine first before unscrewing the power box. On my pic you would disconnect wire #1 at the filter and reconnect it at the switch #2.
Quoted from GRUMPY:Yes.
Here is one, it would be best for you to take a pic of your machine as they changed things over the years. Remember to unplug the machine first before unscrewing the power box. On my pic you would disconnect wire #1 at the filter and reconnect it at the switch #2.
Thank you soooo much! Mines a euro conversion so I'll take a pic as i suspect it is different. Just in the middle of a LOTR repair now.
Quoted from GRUMPY:Yes.
Here is one, it would be best for you to take a pic of your machine as they changed things over the years. Remember to unplug the machine first before unscrewing the power box. On my pic you would disconnect wire #1 at the filter and reconnect it at the switch #2.
Sorry for the late reply, finally finished my LOTR repair. Here are pics of the euro service outlet. It has already been converted to USA power. I just want it to turn on and off with the power switch instead of the service outlet being on all the time.
Quoted from QuarterGrabber:I just want it to turn on and off with the power switch instead of the service outlet being on all the time.
So remove the black wire that comes from the service outlet off of the fuse holder. Then connect the black wire from the service outlet to the black wire on the switch that is leaving the metal power box. If it was me I would cut off the pink crimp connector that is on the black wire and then twist both black wires together and then solder them to the switch. Done, go drink a beer.
Here's a stadium lightning that I made. Now afterwards when I think it, DI probably would not have needed it.
I attached the rail with pieces of velcro tape - now one can see playfield from the holes, but I think its ok and
its better than putting tape for the hole distance of the rail.
I had difficulties with quick-connectors for led-stripes. They seem to broke off from the led-strip quite easily.
First I tried to secure the quick connectors to led-stripe's ends with heat shrink tubing, but that broke off easily.
Maybe I should have put the tubing more on the rails side, now it was only ca. 5 mm or so over the rail. Well, finally replaced
it with some electric tape and that seems to work ok. I need to buy more heat shrink tubing for my next attempt.
Oh and I think I used similar led-strips as Pinstadiums use, since the iPhone app works for my led-strips as well.
Quoted from GRUMPY:So remove the black wire that comes from the service outlet off of the fuse holder. Then connect the black wire from the service outlet to the black wire on the switch that is leaving the metal power box. If it was me I would cut off the pink crimp connector that is on the black wire and then twist both black wires together and then solder them to the switch. Done, go drink a beer.
Ok just so i understand. You're saying bypass the fuse completely and unsolder both bkack wires attached to the fuse and solder them directly to the switch?
Quoted from QuarterGrabber:Ok just so i understand. You're saying bypass the fuse completely and unsolder both bkack wires attached to the fuse and solder them directly to the switch?
No just move the black wire from the service outlet. Leave the other black wire on the fuse. Done as I said the service outlet will now be on the fuse.
Quoted from GRUMPY:No just move the black wire from the service outlet. Leave the other black wire on the fuse. Done as I said the service outlet will now be on the fuse.
Sorry I'm a noob when it comes to wiring. I tried every variation of what i thought you were saying and none of them work. This is the last thing i tried.
Quoted from Nepi23:How do you attach the led-rails to the inner sides of the pinball machine? Magnetic tape or velco? Do you use it for the whole length of the rail or do you put it in patches, as I did with velcro in the picture above?
Magnetic strips with double sided tape. The whole length of the rail
Quoted from GRUMPY:No just move the black wire from the service outlet. Leave the other black wire on the fuse. Done as I said the service outlet will now be on the fuse.
When you say service outlet you mean the plug receptacle right?
Quoted from QuarterGrabber:When you say service outlet you mean the plug receptacle right?
Yep.
In your last pic it looks like you added on a piece of black wire, correct! That splice needs to be insulated with a piece of heat shrink tubing or it will spark if it touches anything metal.
Quoted from GRUMPY:Then connect the black wire from the service outlet to the black wire on the switch that is leaving the metal power box.
And lastly you connected the service outlet black wire to the input of the switch, you need to connect it to the output of the switch. This is the pink connector on the right.
Quoted from GRUMPY:Yep.
In your last pic it looks like you added on a piece of black wire, correct! That splice needs to be insulated with a piece of heat shrink tubing or it will spark if it touches anything metal.And lastly you connected the service outlet black wire to the input of the switch, you need to connect it to the output of the switch. This is the pink connector on the right.
Ah ok! Man I'm so dumb. I get it now. Tha k you so much!
Quoted from GRUMPY:Yep.
In your last pic it looks like you added on a piece of black wire, correct! That splice needs to be insulated with a piece of heat shrink tubing or it will spark if it touches anything metal.And lastly you connected the service outlet black wire to the input of the switch, you need to connect it to the output of the switch. This is the pink connector on the right.
Boom! Did what you instructed and it works perfect now! Thanks grumpy.
The only issue I can think of here is that the service outlet is always on for a reason - so one can use it to power something like a soldering gun and do field repairs. So for someone like me that routes machines this is not a wise option.
I think tapping power set aside for a bill acceptor on the coin door or something similar is the better way to go, this way you retain the use of the service outlet for what it was designed for.
1/2" aluminum angle stock from Lowes... the 3' pieces are usually enough. >$3 each
5v warm white LED strips (300 count/3528) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G572BEO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
Tap into Plug 117 pins 3 and 4 on WCS94. This will do 2 sets if you are using 3' rails.
https://www.amazon.com/DCFun-Conductor-Connector-Adapter-10-Pair/dp/B06XSBBMMC/ref=sr_1_cc_1
I use these plugs to make the lights removable easily. Cut them down and solder them to each strip, and solder another one in where you tap into the power source so you can still take the backbox off cleanly if needed.
Done.
I don't need color changing clown puke or bluetooth control, and the standard light intensity looks just right.
Quoted from JodyG:1/2" aluminum angle stock from Lowes... the 3' pieces are usually enough. >$3 each
5v warm white LED strips (300 count/3528) amazon.com link »
Tap into Plug 117 pins 3 and 4 on WCS94. This will do 2 sets if you are using 3' rails.
amazon.com link »
I use these plugs to make the lights removable easily. Cut them down and solder them to each strip, and solder another one in where you tap into the power source so you can still take the backbox off cleanly if needed.
Done.
I don't need color changing clown puke or bluetooth control, and the standard light intensity looks just right.
Those both look great! Maybe the 5v strips are just bright enough without dimming vs the 12v that I find too bright without dimming.
This is so inspiring...
Can someone please point me to which magnetic strip you guys are using?
TIA!
~ja
Quoted from uncle_jose:This is so inspiring...
Can someone please point me to which magnetic strip you guys are using?
TIA!
~ja
I am not happy with the current magnetic strip setup I am using...so I am looking at a new solution. Nudging has knocked them off already.
I bought some of these 1/2" round x 1/16" thick rare earth magnets on ebay. I will epoxy one on each end of the aluminum angle, then staple a small piece of skid banding (comes black already) to the side of the cab. This will make the gap roughly 3/32" and have plenty of holding power.
Magnets: ebay.com link: itm
I didn't like the idea of having to remove the lighting every time I wanted to raise the playfield. My option was to use 57/64" x 9/16" aluminum "U" channel and 3M "permanent" double sided tape and attach it to the top of my playfield outside rails. I wired my 5V LED strips into the GI lighting under the playfield. The channels don't mount as high as the ones on the side of the cabinet, but they stay on the rails all the time and don't interfere when raising the playfield.
Quoted from JodyG:Finished up Escape From the Lost World tonight. It's a whole new game now!
Wow what a difference! None of mine made that much of a difference, except Maybe T2. Great job! What LED strips did you use? I wish my LOTR turned out like that. Its still kind of dark even after the strios installed and extra spot lights around the playfield.
Quoted from epeabs:I didn't like the idea of having to remove the lighting every time I wanted to raise the playfield. My option was to use 57/64" x 9/16" aluminum "U" channel and 3M "permanent" double sided tape and attach it to the top of my playfield outside rails. I wired my 5V LED strips into the GI lighting under the playfield. The channels don't mount as high as the ones on the side of the cabinet, but they stay on the rails all the time and don't interfere when raising the playfield.
Thats a fantastic idea. Won't work for every game but for the ones it does work for, fantastic!
Quoted from QuarterGrabber:Wow what a difference! None of mine made that much of a difference, except Maybe T2. Great job! What LED strips did you use? I wish my LOTR turned out like that. Its still kind of dark even after the strios installed and extra spot lights around the playfield.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01G572BEO/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp
This is what I use. Note: you'll need to tap into 5v and not 12v. You'll will get 5, 36" strips out of each roll. So 2 rolls will do 5 machines.
Quoted from JodyG:Finished up Escape From the Lost World tonight. It's a whole new game now!
Jurassic Park and NBA Fastbreak done today with dimmer warm white LEDs than I've tried before and the result is perfect for both games. The playfield on NBA just pops now and you're easily able to track the balls, make shots, see the ball in the 4 shot holes, etc. The previous lights I tried in JP were either WAY too bright or cold white LEDs which didn't look good.
Of course the pics appear much brighter than in person. It's a nice warm look.
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Hi!
What kind of connects are you using to connect the led-strips to power? I am using these quick-connects and as I put two strips in each rail, with these the leads become bulky. Also I found with my GB that there is a siderail screw that is in just a wrong place when placing the poor man's pinstadium lights. How have you managed to overcome this? Have a look at pics and thanks for any info!
I keep the kits simple and plug each strip into a 12v wall adapter. The two adapters are plugged into a short extension cord which is plugged into the service outlet.
I power my games on and off with power strips so the lights turn on and off with the games.
I bought a bag of 12v power supplies from a local indoor flea market for $1 each. I now use led strips that cost $5.99 each and gets me 2 sets of kits.
Quoted from PoMC:keep the kits simple and plug each strip into a 12v wall adapter. The two adapters are plugged into a short extension cord which is plugged into the service outlet.
What are they 300 milliamp?
Quoted from Chalkey:The pinball refinery thread is closed with no explanation, I was hoping to check it out vs. doing my own. End of run or some other reason?
Conflict with Pinstadium.
Quoted from PoMC:I keep the kits simple and plug each strip into a 12v wall adapter. The two adapters are plugged into a short extension cord which is plugged into the service outlet.
I power my games on and off with power strips so the lights turn on and off with the games.
I bought a bag of 12v power supplies from a local indoor flea market for $1 each. I now use led strips that cost $5.99 each and gets me 2 sets of kits.
Don’t you lose interaction with the games lighting effects?
What's the conflict of he was already producing them? They have a patent on something he wasn't previously producing?
Pinstadiums are grossly overpriced (IMO). Waiting for the definitive guide to come out of this thread or a reasonably priced competitor to emerge.
Quoted from Chalkey:What's the conflict of he was already producing them? They have a patent on something he wasn't previously producing?
Pinstadiums are grossly overpriced (IMO). Waiting for the definitive guide to come out of this thread or a reasonably priced competitor to emerge.
He didn't want to step on their toes. Yes he was producing, they talked between them selves off line and he decided to drop them. I myself don't have a smart phone and really don't like all the flashing or the price, I just want the pf to be lit better. Most likely no other competitors will make these so you'll have to make your own.
Quoted from Chalkey:What's the conflict of he was already producing them? They have a patent on something he wasn't previously producing?
Pinstadiums are grossly overpriced (IMO). Waiting for the definitive guide to come out of this thread or a reasonably priced competitor to emerge.
The refinery was charging $40 a complete set.
Quoted from Lermods:Don’t you lose interaction with the games lighting effects?
I don't want any interaction with GI turning on and off, just wanted a well lit playfield to enjoy playing more. I have an actual Pinstadium kit and prefer my basic kits since they serve my needs best. I keep the flashing LEDs disconnected on Pinstadium because that's also too much for me.
Quoted from MustangPaul:What are they 300 milliamp?
The ones I have vary from 1000 to 2000. The power supplies I received with a set of LEDs were 2000, so I just stick at 1000-2000.
Quoted from Nepi23:Hi!
What kind of connects are you using to connect the led-strips to power? I am using these quick-connects and as I put two strips in each rail, with these the leads become bulky. Also I found with my GB that there is a siderail screw that is in just a wrong place when placing the poor man's pinstadium lights. How have you managed to overcome this? Have a look at pics and thanks for any info!
What I meant to ask here is, how do you connect the wires to led-strips? What kind of quick-connects or connectors do you use? Or do you solder the wires to led-strips - what kind of cabling? To me the soldering looks impossible, tin does not seems to stick on the led-strips at all.
Quoted from Nepi23:What I meant to ask here is, how do you connect the wires to led-strips? What kind of quick-connects or connectors do you use? Or do you solder the wires to led-strips - what kind of cabling? To me the soldering looks impossible, tin does not seems to stick on the led-strips at all.
The strips I used have a 12v adapter plug on one end and wire leads on the other. The strips get cut in half and I used 12 adapters for the side with the plugs and on the side with the wire leads I also use 12 adapters, but cut the plug and then solder the wire leads to the adapter wire. In both cases the 12 adapters are plugged into the service outlet. I've never tried to solder to the gold pads on the LEDs, but a few sets I bought came with quick connect for that purpose, but also never tried those either.
Quoted from QuarterGrabber:The refinery was charging $40 a complete set.
and that was a very fair price too. To bad he chose to give it up, I was ready to buy 4 or 5 from him.
Quoted from PoMC:The ones I have vary from 1000 to 2000. The power supplies I received with a set of LEDs were 2000, so I just stick at 1000-2000.
This is how I wire up my games for my 12v mods using a 2 amp wall wart. After this picture was taken I put a 6 outlet power strip that has an on/off switch on it in the coin box area and plug that into the service box power then plug the wall wart into the strip. In Jackbot (pictured) I also have a 6v 2amp wall wart supplying power to a splitter the same way as the 12v system for all my added 6v lights. They work great.
Quoted from JodyG:I use these plugs soldered directly to the LED pads for basic white lighting. I don't really care for all the added effects of Pinstadium lighting, but I have half a notion to do a full DIY on how to replicate them for a fraction of the price now.
I see you have the strips pointing down, are they to bright facing out? I love those little RC connectors.
Quoted from Trekie:$5.00 at Walmart. Comes with multi color LED strip, power supply and remote.
It doesn’t come with a power supply, it is powered by standard 5v USB port
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