(Topic ID: 206424)

Poor man's Stadium lighting

By Fytr

6 years ago


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  • 197 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 45 hours ago by digitaldocc
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There are 1,001 posts in this topic. You are on page 19 of 21.
#901 2 years ago

I just cut 2 v-slots into the 1/2" aluminum angle and use a couple of pan head wood screws into the walls of the cabinet. I really don't lift the table all that much and the game is on location so I don't want the lighting falling off into the game.

Screenshot from 2021-07-27 11-53-58 (resized).pngScreenshot from 2021-07-27 11-53-58 (resized).png
1 week later
#902 2 years ago
Quoted from Cheeks:

Has anyone come up with a way to mount these on the sides of the playfield rather than the inside of the cabinet? It would be really nice to be able to lift the playfield without needing to remember to remove them.

Any new solutions created by users? I should install a couple of light bars on top of the sidedecals on my Monster Bash and I would not want to go the route of velcro or magnetic tape. Pinstadium type "Hovers" and "Xeno-mounts" could be nice. Any DIY solutions to that effect? If Pinstadiums' product would fit to DIY light bars, I would get the ready-made product I think if no cheaper alternatives can be found.

#903 2 years ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

Any new solutions created by users? I should install a couple of light bars on top of the sidedecals on my Monster Bash and I would not want to go the route of velcro or magnetic tape. Pinstadium type "Hovers" and "Xeno-mounts" could be nice. Any DIY solutions to that effect? If Pinstadiums' product would fit to DIY light bars, I would get the ready-made product I think if no cheaper alternatives can be found.

The other solution I've been toying with, but haven't tried, is to flush mount 4-6 evenly spaced strong neodymium disc magnets into the top edge of the cabinets on each side, using a Forstner bit to drill the holes to mount them in. Cover the sides and the magnets with art blades, then either use washers or a magnet strip mounted to the light rail to attach to the cabinet.

#904 2 years ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

The other solution I've been toying with, but haven't tried, is to flush mount 4-6 evenly spaced strong neodymium disc magnets into the top edge of the cabinets on each side, using a Forstner bit to drill the holes to mount them in. Cover the sides and the magnets with art blades, then either use washers or a magnet strip mounted to the light rail to attach to the cabinet.

I did this behind mirror blades. I only needed two magnets on each side, corresponding to two magnets inside my aluminum rails. Works perfectly.

2 weeks later
#905 2 years ago
Quoted from gorditas:

I did this behind mirror blades. I only needed two magnets on each side, corresponding to two magnets inside my aluminum rails. Works perfectly.

I took a similar approach on my Slugfest and homemade lighting. But rather than drill into the cabinet I cut small circular discs out of very thin sheet metal. These were adhered to the cabinet with very thin (but strong) double sided tape. The metal discs were painted to somewhat hide them when attached to the cabinet. I then countersunk the magnet in the lighting strip itself. The discs are thin enough that they do not interfere with lifting the playfield.

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#906 2 years ago

Joined the club tonight. My Freddy pinball machine was incredibly dim due to red LEDs in the GI. That’s how I bought it and haven’t gotten to buy a new led kit yet. It’s a night and day difference playing it even with the house lights on.

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1 month later
#907 2 years ago

Before and after. I didn’t do flashers on this set as I really find them to be excessive.

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#908 2 years ago

If anyone has the Chicago Gaming Company Remakes. This may interest you. The games have RGB speakers that are great to tap into a RGB amplifier. Once you have that done you can add up to 600 LEDS for each amplifier. I only used one. Anyway here are some pictures.

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#909 2 years ago

I forgot to mention that you need to power up the amplifier with 12v power supply. I also have a trigger circuit I am working on. Right now I just have a relay and I don't like the clicking noise it makes. More to come and other games also. This is truly interactive lighting.

#910 2 years ago
Quoted from sushko:

I forgot to mention that you need to power up the amplifier with 12v power supply. I also have a trigger circuit I am working on. Right now I just have a relay and I don't like the clicking noise it makes. More to come and other games also. This is truly interactive lighting.

nice work

#911 2 years ago

Thanks I have some more stuff coming. I like the idea of having the lights interactive.

3 months later
#912 2 years ago

I've read through most of this thread briefly. I installed the playfield lights on my JP Premium based on the Hurry Up Pinball video, great video. I have 2 sets of Pinstadiums on other games, and the one I installed on JP looks just as good. My question is, how to get them to come on with the game. Right now they are powered by the service outlet. They do not shut off when the game shuts off so I need the remote. I've seen 3 options mentioned here. Power strip, smart plug, or maybe a relay. The first 2 don't interest me, if it comes down to those I'll just use the remote. If anyone could point me in the direction of a good solution for Spike 2 games without me re-reading 1,000 posts that would be great, ha!

#913 2 years ago
Quoted from Shredso:

I've read through most of this thread briefly. I installed the playfield lights on my JP Premium based on the Hurry Up Pinball video, great video. I have 2 sets of Pinstadiums on other games, and the one I installed on JP looks just as good. My question is, how to get them to come on with the game. Right now they are powered by the service outlet. They do not shut off when the game shuts off so I need the remote. I've seen 3 options mentioned here. Power strip, smart plug, or maybe a relay. The first 2 don't interest me, if it comes down to those I'll just use the remote. If anyone could point me in the direction of a good solution for Spike 2 games without me re-reading 1,000 posts that would be great, ha!

Check out my post #733 in the thread as well as a few others shortly following that one....

2 weeks later
#914 2 years ago

HomePin is using the COB (chip on board) LED strip for their Spinal Tap release. Very interesting! Could resolve a lot of complaints people have of seeing the individual LED's. I'm familiar with COB but didn't know they came in strips. A bit more expensive, but likely a worthwhile investment!
ebay.com link: itm

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
#915 2 years ago
Quoted from dudah:

HomePin is using the COB (chip on board) LED strip for their Spinal Tap release. Very interesting! Could resolve a lot of complaints people have of seeing the individual LED's. I'm familiar with COB but didn't know they came in strips. A bit more expensive, but likely a worthwhile investment!
ebay.com link: itm
[quoted image]

I'm not familiar with COB, is this available as RGB controllable, or single color only (link you sent is single color) ? Need to take a look at the underlying technology, this sure seems interesting

#916 2 years ago
Quoted from dudah:

HomePin is using the COB (chip on board) LED strip for their Spinal Tap release. Very interesting! Could resolve a lot of complaints people have of seeing the individual LED's. I'm familiar with COB but didn't know they came in strips. A bit more expensive, but likely a worthwhile investment!
ebay.com link: itm
[quoted image]

Wow! Those are amazing! No more light strips on metal ramps with those I bet.

#917 2 years ago

Does anyone know the exact type of UV light strip that is used on Pinstadiums? I've ordered three different kinds of amazon, but all of them put out very dim light. The Pinstadium UV lights get very bright when they flash, and gives a really nice effect.

#918 2 years ago
Quoted from Ace8Track:

Does anyone know the exact type of UV light strip that is used on Pinstadiums? I've ordered three different kinds of amazon, but all of them put out very dim light. The Pinstadium UV lights get very bright when they flash, and gives a really nice effect.

Maybe they are using purple and not UV? UV lights don’t tend to be bright.

#919 2 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Maybe they are using purple and not UV? UV lights don’t tend to be bright.

Agreed, UV lights don't tend to burn out ones retinas.....

#920 2 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Maybe they are using purple and not UV? UV lights don’t tend to be bright.

I don't remember where I saw, but that sounds correct. It was something along the lines of the uv is combined with purple to get the brightness and for the reactance.

1 month later
#921 2 years ago

Hi!

I have lately had a problem with my poor man's stadium lights. My led-lights system gets signal from GI and once it spots that GI is on, also the stadium led lights come on and vice versa. However, now I have spotted a problem, where the GI-bulb turns off for a bit longer time and when the GI then starts again, the stadium led lights have lost their color/brightness settings and start to cycle colors. If I want to correct it, I have to reinput the settings via my phone. Have a look at the video, what happens:

I am using a El Cheapo controller - might it be the reason for it and would there be a better controller to use? (I am using a controller with 5 pins, in the picture is an older controller with only 4 pins).
Or what might be the problem here and how to fix it?

I also tried to take the GI-signal from the coin door, but it did not seem to work, I would have thought that its stable. I connected my alligator clips to the prongs that go to the light bulb, but it does not give the GI-signal to my system apparently as the stadium lights stay off. Any tips regarding that?

Thanks!

IMG_2666 (resized).jpgIMG_2666 (resized).jpgIMG_2667 (resized).jpgIMG_2667 (resized).jpg
#922 2 years ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

Hi!
I have lately had a problem with my poor man's stadium lights. My led-lights system gets signal from GI and once it spots that GI is on, also the stadium led lights come on and vice versa. However, now I have spotted a problem, where the GI-bulb turns off for a bit longer time and when the GI then starts again, the stadium led lights have lost their color/brightness settings and start to cycle colors. If I want to correct it, I have to reinput the settings via my phone. Have a look at the video, what happens:
I am using a El Cheapo controller - might it be the reason for it and would there be a better controller to use? (I am using a controller with 5 pins, in the picture is an older controller with only 4 pins).
Or what might be the problem here and how to fix it?
I also tried to take the GI-signal from the coin door, but it did not seem to work, I would have thought that its stable. I connected my alligator clips to the prongs that go to the light bulb, but it does not give the GI-signal to my system apparently as the stadium lights stay off. Any tips regarding that?
Thanks!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Those type of LED controllers reset to their factory state if the power they receive is switched on and off 4-5 times inside of 2 seconds. If you are using some sort of relay to trigger to turn on the lighting that relay should be shutting off the output of that controller and not the input.

#923 2 years ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

Those type of LED controllers reset to their factory state if the power they receive is switched on and off 4-5 times inside of 2 seconds. If you are using some sort of relay to trigger to turn on the lighting that relay should be shutting off the output of that controller and not the input.

I am using this kind of device (a friend made it for me). The power goes into this unit and the power leaves from this unit to the controller. There are also connectors for the GI-signal.

What would be a good controller to use with some memory so that such memory loss/reset to factory state would not occur?

IMG_0975 (resized).PNGIMG_0975 (resized).PNG
#924 2 years ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

I am using this kind of device (a friend made it for me). The power goes into this unit and the power leaves from this unit to the controller. There are also connectors for the GI-signal.
What would be a good controller to use with some memory so that such memory loss/reset to factory state would not occur?
[quoted image]

Schematic?

#925 2 years ago

Sorry, I don't have any. The unit takes the GI-signal and shuts off and on the led-lights accordingly.

I am just looking for a stable controller that would remember the settings even though the GI would be turned off for e.g. 30 seconds. Maybe a controller with only a IR remote would work better than one with the WiFi-option (?)

The lights at the coin door are stable and the led-lights should work well with them, but for some reason connecting alligator clips to the light bulb prongs does not seem to light the led-lights at all.

#926 2 years ago

This should work. I added a small bridge on the G.I. side so it shouldn't matter which way around you connect it to the machine.

65987 (resized).jpg65987 (resized).jpg
#927 2 years ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

I am using this kind of device (a friend made it for me). The power goes into this unit and the power leaves from this unit to the controller. There are also connectors for the GI-signal.
What would be a good controller to use with some memory so that such memory loss/reset to factory state would not occur?
[quoted image]

That’s my point. The power supply should be going to the LED Controller BEFORE it goes to this relay switching device. Many Pins have modes where the GI switches off and on rapidly, thus in your situation causing this relay to switch the controller off/on rapidly and resetting it. You need to keep constant power to the LED controller.

12VDC -> LED RGB Controller -> Switching relay -> LEDs

#928 2 years ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

That’s my point. The power supply should be going to the LED Controller BEFORE it goes to this relay switching device. Many Pins have modes where the GI switches off and on rapidly, thus in your situation causing this relay to switch the controller off/on rapidly and resetting it. You need to keep constant power to the LED controller.
12VDC -> LED RGB Controller -> Switching relay -> LEDs

Oh, a million thanks! Its not a question of a correct controller then at all! All my poor man stadium lights connect from 12VDC to the switching relay first and after that to the controller and the leds.

#929 2 years ago

Y'all seem to be over-complicating this thing. Omron MY4 6VAC and a 12VDC wall wart in the service jack:

https://www.newark.com/omron/my4-6vac-s/relay-my-series-power-non-latching/dp/18J7484

MY4_DC_ (resized).jpgMY4_DC_ (resized).jpg
#930 2 years ago

I tried to connect my alligator clips for GI to coin door bulb by pulling the bulb wiring a bit away from the bulb and inserting the alligator lungs in between the bulb and the connecting wires. For some reason this does not work and the led lights do not turn on. I was thinking the coin door bulb would provide constant light for my led lists as an interim solution, but no joy for some reason.

IMG_2669 (1) (resized).jpgIMG_2669 (1) (resized).jpg
1 month later
#931 1 year ago

I've always thought my Fish Tales pf was a bit dim and I moved it to a dark corner of my games room so I decided to follow the advice of this thread and create my own lighting. I'm glad I did.

I uses 12mm al angle and 12V warm white led strips. Rare earth magnet were set into the cabinet sides and steel strips glued to the angle. I also ran a strip across the top of the play field which can be permanently attached. In this strip I added a few dc jacks to allow the side strips to be neatly and easy removed.

The 12V wall plug is fed from the service outlet. All up it looks a whole lot brighter and better.

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#932 1 year ago

Nice, getting ready to do this as well. I thought about using A/B magnetic strips but the reviews on all of them are so bad. I think I will just bite the bullet and drill holes for rare earth magnets.

1 month later
#933 1 year ago

I put some lights in my AIQ tonight. Cost about $50 and way better lit. I could have kept the cost down, but I wanted to be lazy.

I just attached the LED to the thin side of the channel, attached the magnetic tape to the other side, stuck another magnetic strip to the side of the cabinet, and plugged everything into the service outlet via a power strip I had laying around.

The tape kinda sucks, but it’s actually holding pretty ok for now.

Two spools of $16, 12v LED strips with attached adapter.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-8-ft-LED-Warm-White-Under-Cabinet-Light-LS2835-8F/306549382

Two 3’ X 1/2” X 3/4” aluminum angle channel.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-3-4-in-x-1-2-in-x-36-in-Aluminum-Flat-Angle-with-1-16-in-Thick-802047/204273982

1 roll of magnetic tape.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Master-Magnet-1-2-in-x-10-ft-Magnetic-Tape-Roll-96274/203613125

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#934 1 year ago
Quoted from greben0ts:

I put some lights in my AIQ tonight.

Congrats you've also cheaply recreated Pukatadiums fraudulent before pics!

1 month later
#935 1 year ago
Quoted from Bos98:

Controller: LEDENET Smart WiFi LED Controller 5 Channels Control 4A5CH CW/WW RGB RGBW RGBWW LED light, Timer Music Group Sync Controller amazon.com link »
Relay: DaFuRui 4Pcs DC 12V 2 Channel... amazon.com link »

Fantastic info in this thread! I'm about to dig in to make some dual channel lighting, but the 5 channel controller and dual channel relays linked above have been out of stock for a while. Has anyone successfully used a substitute?

#936 1 year ago

Joined the club. Thanks Hurryup pinball for the vids!

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#937 1 year ago

Because of the improvement on my Fish Tales I decided to make up another set of diy poorman's lights for Dirty Harry. Great improvement to play and look

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#938 1 year ago

These look great!! I need to finish building mine. I've got all the stuff sitting and waiting.

#939 1 year ago

I’ve gotten so used to this that any game without them almost looks too dim to play to me.

2 months later
#940 1 year ago

Ok in my situation I have the original Pinstatium light but the LED strips were rubbish and keep breaking. They said to solder the broken joints. I have kept doing that but now they have power and won’t turn on. So I found 12v strips and new mount channels and I want to tie them into the original controller that work good. Does anyone know the type of connector at the main power unit?????

#941 1 year ago
Quoted from TroyS:

Ok in my situation I have the original Pinstatium light but the LED strips were rubbish and keep breaking. They said to solder the broken joints. I have kept doing that but now they have power and won’t turn on. So I found 12v strips and new mount channels and I want to tie them into the original controller that work good. Does anyone know the type of connector at the main power unit?????

LOL, nice of them to not replace some $400 LEDs. Dude is a joke.

#942 1 year ago
Quoted from woody76:

LOL, nice of them to not replace some $400 LEDs. Dude is a joke.

I got 16’ of LEDs that are higher quality for $14 and the plastic tracks I found for $8 each. I will post pictures when I’m done.

#943 1 year ago

The new Pinstadium Atoms use a much thinner channel. Has anyone seen it or knows a comparable channel to buy?

#944 1 year ago
Quoted from joelbob:

The new Pinstadium Atoms use a much thinner channel. Has anyone seen it or knows a comparable channel to buy?

I would like to find the channel too.

1 week later
#945 1 year ago

I'm working on this setup at the moment

Power Adapter + -> Relay DC +
Power Adapter - -> Relay DC -
LED Controller + -> Relay NO2
LED Controller - -> Relay DC -
Relay COM2 -> Relay DC +
GI bulb + -> Relay IN2
GI bulb - -> Relay DC -

Is this going to work mixing the AC and DC- to trigger?

9497e0311e6c98134b61457fab8cf4480d1848cb (resized).jpeg9497e0311e6c98134b61457fab8cf4480d1848cb (resized).jpeg
#946 1 year ago
Quoted from Sc1f1:

I'm working on this setup at the moment
Power Adapter + -> Relay DC +
Power Adapter - -> Relay DC -
LED Controller + -> Relay NO2
LED Controller - -> Relay DC -
Relay COM2 -> Relay DC +
GI bulb + -> Relay IN2
GI bulb - -> Relay DC -
Is this going to work mixing the AC and DC- to trigger?[quoted image]

If I recall when I initially wired my first set up with the AC GI power to trigger it did work by my relay stopped working after very little use. After that I modified a GI LED bulb to access the DC output from the base to the bulb to use as a relay trigger, that worked much better.

EDIT> Here's the details on that, #5 in this post: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/poor-mans-stadium-lighting/page/6#post-4352998

1 week later
1 week later
#948 1 year ago

Hey everyone. I'm new to the club. I have a lot of posts to catch up on.
I used an angled mount for the lights,
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0838WCLS4
The Amazon link will show you what I mean.

It came with a diffuser which I thought necessary with the angulation vs the mount to the cabinet side.

Overall, the rest of the process I used was per HurryUpPinball vids.

The lights weren't as bright as I was expecting. I plan on making another set for my BM 66. See the results and let me know what you think.

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#949 1 year ago
Quoted from JustJared:

Hey everyone. I'm new to the club. I have a lot of posts to catch up on.
I used an angled mount for the lights,
amazon.com link »
The Amazon link will show you what I mean.
It came with a diffuser which I thought necessary with the angulation vs the mount to the cabinet side.
Overall, the rest of the process I used was per HurryUpPinball vids.
The lights weren't as bright as I was expecting. I plan on making another set for my BM 66. See the results and let me know what you think.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks really good. Seems plenty bright in the pics.

2 weeks later
#950 1 year ago
Quoted from dudah:

HomePin is using the COB (chip on board) LED strip for their Spinal Tap release. Very interesting! Could resolve a lot of complaints people have of seeing the individual LED's. I'm familiar with COB but didn't know they came in strips. A bit more expensive, but likely a worthwhile investment!
ebay.com link: itm
[quoted image]

Has anyone experimented with COB LED strips? What approaches have people looked at for mounting?

At 2.7mm wide for narrow strips, I'm wondering if strips are narrow enough that a scheme to mount on underside of playfield glass would be workable

https://www.ledbe.com/super-narrow-2.7mm-dc12v-flexible-cob-led-stripe

GOing a different direction, I haven't seen anything about these in Spinal Tap machines, but if it is reasonable to mount them to the side walls without having a plastic channel for them, all the better.

At 1.9mm thick, these RGB COB strips are danger close to being able to mount to the side walls directly (no magnetic strip, just leave them in all the time)

https://www.amazon.com/PAUTIX-Changing-Multicolor-Flexible-Decoration/dp/B09FPZZBGK

Has anyone seen a Spinal Tap in person to see how HomePin is doing it?

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