Medusa
Bally, 1981Question for the group, I build my setup based off AUKraut minus the wifi piece. The problem I am having is when i hook the controller clips to the GI the lights start flashing and the board unit heats up to the point I cannot touch it. Any ideas where to look on this? i have them in my Iron Maiden
Quoted from Swoods5688:Question for the group, I build my setup based off AUKraut minus the wifi piece. The problem I am having is when i hook the controller clips to the GI the lights start flashing and the board unit heats up to the point I cannot touch it. Any ideas where to look on this? i have them in my Iron Maiden
Definitely sounds like you have something not wired correctly. Can you take a pic of how you have the GI driver part wired up?
Quoted from AUKraut:Definitely sounds like you have something not wired correctly. Can you take a pic of how you have the GI driver part wired up?
This is my set up
6440E4C8-4DCB-41B0-B85E-20A2BDFF6583 (resized).jpegQuoted from Bos98:So I took a few things from this thread and made my own version.
This uses the dual channel relay a RGBW controller for GI lighting and using the second channel UV flashers.
At this point there are enough links to parts so here are some photos and how it’s wired.
On the left of the relay with 6 outputs I daisy chained the COMS together and ran a jumper from COM2 to the DC+.
I then spliced the Black wire of a RGBW jumper and hooked the one side to the DC+ and one to NO1
I attached a long extension wire from DC- to use as a connecting point for the many grounds.
I then took a MALE and a FEMALE 12V plug and hooked the + to the DC+ and the - to DC-
The DC+ is also where I connected the other end of the BLACK wire coming from the RGBW controller.
I plugged the MALE power run in to the RGBW controller and left the FEMALE plug to attach to a 12V power supply of your choosing.
Then attach a set of wires as a trigger. I took the red to IN2 in this example and the black to the DC-. Then attach alligator clips to the trigger wire.
If you want UV flashers simply add another trigger and a second setup on the other channel similar to this.
Set the black jumpers to HIGH to have the lights turn on with the game. If you set them LOW the lights will turn on when game lights turn off which is probably not what you want.
Follow the other guides on construction setup of your light strips.
Hope this helps anyone else who was trying to get RGBW GI with WiFi control + UV Flashers on a single relay.
I have bench tested this with no issue. Just waiting on glue to dry before I take this to a machine.
I knows it’s not pretty but it was a first run. I am sure I will come up with a better hookup on the next one.
Thanks!
[quoted image][quoted image]
So this particular relay will work with a lower voltage signal from the GI to turn on and off? Even though it is a 12 volt relay?
Quoted from Fytr:Both to the same socket, one for each wire connecting to the socket. Careful!
Hooked up two white led sets to my two data east pins and they work great. Thanks!
Now I tried doing a rgbw set but the remote dimmer does not work and lights are not bright. Does this driver not work for RGBW? Or maybe it needs to wired differently?
20201025_152148 (resized).jpgQuoted from Kawydud:So this particular relay will work with a lower voltage signal from the GI to turn on and off? Even though it is a 12 volt relay?
Yes
Quoted from Bos98:So I took a few things from this thread and made my own version.
This uses the dual channel relay a RGBW controller for GI lighting and using the second channel UV flashers.
At this point there are enough links to parts so here are some photos and how it’s wired.
On the left of the relay with 6 outputs I daisy chained the COMS together and ran a jumper from COM2 to the DC+.
I then spliced the Black wire of a RGBW jumper and hooked the one side to the DC+ and one to NO1
I attached a long extension wire from DC- to use as a connecting point for the many grounds.
I then took a MALE and a FEMALE 12V plug and hooked the + to the DC+ and the - to DC-
The DC+ is also where I connected the other end of the BLACK wire coming from the RGBW controller.
I plugged the MALE power run in to the RGBW controller and left the FEMALE plug to attach to a 12V power supply of your choosing.
Then attach a set of wires as a trigger. I took the red to IN2 in this example and the black to the DC-. Then attach alligator clips to the trigger wire.
If you want UV flashers simply add another trigger and a second setup on the other channel similar to this.
Set the black jumpers to HIGH to have the lights turn on with the game. If you set them LOW the lights will turn on when game lights turn off which is probably not what you want.
Follow the other guides on construction setup of your light strips.
Hope this helps anyone else who was trying to get RGBW GI with WiFi control + UV Flashers on a single relay.
I have bench tested this with no issue. Just waiting on glue to dry before I take this to a machine.
I knows it’s not pretty but it was a first run. I am sure I will come up with a better hookup on the next one.
Thanks!
[quoted image][quoted image]
Does this method control gi lighting going off and on with game for both the RGB and W leds?
Quoted from Roy6585:Does this method control gi lighting going off and on with game for both the RGB and W leds?
Yes
is there a way to use the power of the machines power board? Like i do with http://www.speakerlightkits.com/ ?
Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:is there a way to use the power of the machines power board? Like i do with http://www.speakerlightkits.com/ ?
Sure, several 12V power supply boards available at Pinballlife that you can use as a 12V power source for the lights. Here is an example I've used for Spike mods: https://www.pinballlife.com/accessory-power-supply-for-stern-spike-spike-2-system-machines-backbox-mounting.html
Quoted from AUKraut:Sure, several 12V power supply boards available at Pinballlife that you can use as a 12V power source for the lights. Here is an example I've used for Spike mods: https://www.pinballlife.com/accessory-power-supply-for-stern-spike-spike-2-system-machines-backbox-mounting.html
thanks alot!
Quoted from AUKraut:Correct: on the same socket, and depending on the pin the orientation will matter, and on others it won't. Putting the black to the outside of the socket (if it's a bayonet 44/47 type) should make it work.
Any help would be appreciated not sure if this will work with RGBW. I don’t want to fry the machine.
547E842A-E2B0-4F21-AF95-02DEBA1D8B46 (resized).jpegQuoted from Blackzarak:Any help would be appreciated not sure if this will work with RGBW. I don’t want to fry the machine. [quoted image]
That will work! Keep in mind you can test it at the bench, just find you a 5V wall wart. Hook up the RGBW and power that up. The RGB should light up but not the white. Test the red/black to the wall wart and the white should flash on when they touch.
One thing to keep in mind is that you really need to stabilize the 5 RGBW connectors you soldered on the left so they never can touch. When I build one of these I use 2 of the RGBW connectors like you show on the left, then all soldering is done on wires and PCB only by connecting them to the driver module.
Quoted from AUKraut:That will work! Keep in mind you can test it at the bench, just find you a 5V wall wart. Hook up the RGBW and power that up. The RGB should light up but not the white. Test the red/black to the wall wart and the white should flash on when they touch.
One thing to keep in mind is that you really need to stabilize the 5 RGBW connectors you soldered on the left so they never can touch. When I build one of these I use 2 of the RGBW connectors like you show on the left, then all soldering is done on wires and PCB only by connecting them to the driver module.
So I try hooking it up, but I was concern after I notice my GI on the Playfield got a lot brighter Don’t know if that’s normal? Also notice that connecting only the positive alligator clip lights up the white with out connecting the negative.
If I reverse the connection on the bayonet with the alligator clips it flickers My GI on Playfield off !
Are the alligator clips supposed to be on certain connections on the bayonet ?
Sorry hate to sound like a rookie what’s a wall wart?? 
Quoted from Blackzarak:Sorry hate to sound like a rookie what’s a wall wart??
the plug that goes into the wall outlet for power aka "AC Adapter"
Quoted from Blackzarak:So I try hooking it up, but I was concern after I notice my GI on the Playfield got a lot brighter Don’t know if that’s normal? Also notice that connecting only the positive alligator clip lights up the white with out connecting the negative.
If I reverse the connection on the bayonet with the alligator clips it flickers My GI on Playfield off !
Are the alligator clips supposed to be on certain connections on the bayonet ?
Sorry hate to sound like a rookie what’s a wall wart??
No, the GI brightness should not change. The red alligator clip should go to the center contact of the LED socket.
Best bet is to try and bench test it for now using a 5V AC adapter (aka wall wart) as the trigger source to make sure that the module and wiring are working. Visually from your pic the wiring looks correct. Out of the dozen or so of these modules that I've bought I have had one or two that wouldn't work correctly.
Just added some lighting to my Rob Zombie. I used a 3/4" aluminum channel that I 3D printed mounts to go on top of the rails. I also 3D printed some apron mounts for additional lighting. What a huge improvement over a dark original playfield. First picture is stock.
20200923_211833 (resized).jpg20201009_182520 (resized).jpg20201009_182601 (resized).jpg20201009_214001 (resized).jpg20201011_160854 (resized).jpg20201011_160911 (resized).jpgJust wanted to say thanks to everyone on this thread, especially HurryUpPinball for the how-to videos and
AUKraut for making the GI relay so simple.
I made one set of these for my High Speed restoration and still have all parts needed for a second set. Everything required for 2 sets was less than $100. It took me about 2 hours to make them.
That said, if anyone reading this thread is wondering if they would be able to make these, the answer is yes! Seriously, don’t pay for the PinStadium ones. It’s great that they came up with the concept, but $300 a set is absolutely criminal. I used to have a MBr with a set of the real ones that were purchased by a previous owner. This set I just made is basically identical.
I’m certainly no electronics wizard and if I can do it, you can too!!
B6E9A4EB-DBED-4A88-8E2F-190EDBB62B67 (resized).jpegB7EAC40C-91BF-42DE-955B-6D354260FB5E (resized).jpegF61783CC-A64C-41BB-BB7A-F8669EE4A5A4 (resized).jpegEE6BB684-1B2D-440B-BD10-33131748DFFE (resized).jpeg298F8117-6D16-49CF-AFA4-EDF5E7FB2399 (resized).jpegC18BADA7-3A36-4723-91BF-6D87F4FF470A (resized).jpegQuoted from Bellagio:Just wanted to say thanks to everyone on this thread, especially hurryuppinball for the how-to videos and aukraut for making the GI relay so simple.
I made one set of these for my High Speed restoration and still have all parts needed for a second set. Everything required for 2 sets was less than $100. It took me about 2 hours to make them.
That said, if anyone reading this thread is wondering if they would be able to make these, the answer is yes! Seriously, don’t pay for the PinStadium ones. It’s great that they came up with the concept, but $300 a set is absolutely criminal. I used to have a MBr with a set of the real ones that were purchased by a previous owner. This set I just made is basically identical.
I’m certainly no electronics wizard and if I can do it, you can too!!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Awesome!!! Great job!!!
Quoted from Bellagio:Just wanted to say thanks to everyone on this thread, especially hurryuppinball for the how-to videos and aukraut for making the GI relay so simple.
I made one set of these for my High Speed restoration and still have all parts needed for a second set. Everything required for 2 sets was less than $100. It took me about 2 hours to make them.
That said, if anyone reading this thread is wondering if they would be able to make these, the answer is yes! Seriously, don’t pay for the PinStadium ones. It’s great that they came up with the concept, but $300 a set is absolutely criminal. I used to have a MBr with a set of the real ones that were purchased by a previous owner. This set I just made is basically identical.
I’m certainly no electronics wizard and if I can do it, you can too!!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Very nice job and thank you for sharing!
I have been following this relay thread but, to be honest, found it very confusing.
I already have the LED strips installed (always on through service outlet) but would like to try wiring in a relay, so please can you share a link to the relay and where it was purchased?
Also, I assume the red/black wire from J1 is going to a GI lamp? if yes, is it red to the center and black to the outside?
Thank you.
Roger
I have a thought: seems like purchasing the materials for a light set requires the purchase of enough product to make at least two sets. Would there be any interest in folks offering up their leftovers or partnering when purchasing? I only have one game that I’m interested in adding lights right now, so buying leftovers or splitting with someone is very attractive.
Just a thought.
Quoted from rogerdodger:Very nice job and thank you for sharing!
I have been following this relay thread but, to be honest, found it very confusing.
I already have the LED strips installed (always on through service outlet) but would like to try wiring in a relay, so please can you share a link to the relay and where it was purchased?
Also, I assume the red/black wire from J1 is going to a GI lamp? if yes, is it red to the center and black to the outside?
Thank you.
Roger
Thanks!
Here are the relays I bought:
https://www.amazon.com/DaFuRui-Transistor-Controller-High-Power-Adjustable/dp/B087F88WLM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1
Correct, J1 is the trigger. I just picked a nearby GI lamp and connected the black alligator clip to the ground and the red to the other. Most important thing is to make sure it’s a GI lamp.
Quoted from Bellagio:Thanks!
Here are the relays I bought:
amazon.com link »
Correct, J1 is the trigger. I just picked a nearby GI lamp and connected the black alligator clip to the ground and the red to the other. Most important thing is to make sure it’s a GI lamp.
Thank you.
Much appreciated.
Roger
Quoted from Bellagio:Just wanted to say thanks to everyone on this thread, especially hurryuppinball for the how-to videos and aukraut for making the GI relay so simple.
I made one set of these for my High Speed restoration and still have all parts needed for a second set. Everything required for 2 sets was less than $100. It took me about 2 hours to make them.
That said, if anyone reading this thread is wondering if they would be able to make these, the answer is yes! Seriously, don’t pay for the PinStadium ones. It’s great that they came up with the concept, but $300 a set is absolutely criminal. I used to have a MBr with a set of the real ones that were purchased by a previous owner. This set I just made is basically identical.
I’m certainly no electronics wizard and if I can do it, you can too!!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
E78FC2C6-5FD9-4C3E-9254-959149D78288 (resized).jpegQuoted from HurryUpPinball:They look great and happy to help. I’ve built close to 30 of these and have switched over to the WiFi receiver and it works very well and gives access to 16M color choices. All my pins and lights are connected to Alexa and since it remembers the last setting, I just tell Alexa to turn on the pins and never have to touch the remote unless I want to dial in the colors on my phone. I ordered a bunch of light diffuser covers and will be upgrading my 7 pin lineup. Big thanks to AUKraut for all his guidance and hunting down parts to order. I just installed a set in STh along with the UV light kit and love it. These have helped so much with streaming as well. [quoted image]
Impressive! How did the diffuser covers work out?
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:bellagio, dude! Nice work, this pic is gold and put me over the top to order the parts to make a set. Thanks!
[quoted image]
You bet! Getting these lights to switch on/off with the playfield GI was what held me back from making them long ago. AUKraut came up with the simple relay design and it works perfect!
Quoted from HurryUpPinball:They look great and happy to help. I’ve built close to 30 of these and have switched over to the WiFi receiver and it works very well and gives access to 16M color choices. All my pins and lights are connected to Alexa and since it remembers the last setting, I just tell Alexa to turn on the pins and never have to touch the remote unless I want to dial in the colors on my phone. I ordered a bunch of light diffuser covers and will be upgrading my 7 pin lineup. Big thanks to AUKraut for all his guidance and hunting down parts to order. I just installed a set in STh along with the UV light kit and love it. These have helped so much with streaming as well. [quoted image]
You’re videos were great, I played them on my iPad while building the rails and everything worked perfectly!
Quoted from Fytr:Impressive! How did the diffuser covers work out?
I originally found them, they are for sale here: https://www.solidapollo.com/78-Milky-LED-Strip-Diffuser/Cover.html
In terms of working out: So so......They work, however keeping them attached and looking neat at the same times tough. You have to use glue to keep them attached. I'm still searching for a better solution.
Here’s a question for anyone that’s using a relay:
I didn’t want the relay just laying in the bottom of the cab unprotected so I put it inside this small electrical box. What are you guys doing with yours?
For my next one I’m thinking about sealing the relay in heat shrink after I wire it up. Anyone think that could cause a problem or have any other ideas?
94043C72-7CF9-4714-BBC8-970005E7399D (resized).jpegQuoted from Bellagio:Here’s a question for anyone that’s using a relay:
I didn’t want the relay just laying in the bottom of the cab unprotected so I put it inside this small electrical box. What are you guys doing with yours?
For my next one I’m thinking about sealing the relay in heat shrink after I wire it up. Anyone think that could cause a problem or have any other ideas?
[quoted image]
That’s one of the reasons I removed the two blue terminals and soldered the wires on instead: to make it easier to use heat shrink. No issues with it so far.
Quoted from AUKraut:That’s one of the reasons I removed the two blue terminals and soldered the wires on instead: to make it easier to use heat shrink. No issues with it so far.
Gotcha, good thinking! I’ll be doing that on the next one. I’ll probably also re-do this one. The heat shrink gives it a cleaner look.
Quoted from AUKraut:That’s one of the reasons I removed the two blue terminals and soldered the wires on instead: to make it easier to use heat shrink. No issues with it so far.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071H5XC7C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title
If you get this kit the large ones fit over nicely if you remove the blue clamps
Quoted from AUKraut:I originally found them, they are for sale here: https://www.solidapollo.com/78-Milky-LED-Strip-Diffuser/Cover.html
In terms of working out: So so......They work, however keeping them attached and looking neat at the same times tough. You have to use glue to keep them attached. I'm still searching for a better solution.
12DA33D5-BD15-4CDD-92B5-DADEE7A15DC5 (resized).jpeg I have also posted some pics of my game with and without the diffuser. The first two are without and the second two pics are lights with the diffuser. It doesn’t eliminate the stripes but it does tone them down a good bit. This is with the lights at full brightness for colors and white lights. Thanks again AUKraut for the link to the diffuser. 84CB18C5-68E6-4637-B4BD-2E59BE487D69 (resized).jpeg24635743-2813-4F7C-B7EE-D98774075201 (resized).jpeg9C8D9407-4F4D-4EFC-863E-0E3E00D10E7E (resized).jpegCE4F051B-2738-4F60-830C-30A7E84305AA (resized).jpegQuoted from HurryUpPinball:I ordered a set of the diffusers and placed a very tiny drop of superglue every 6 or so leds (top and bottom of the strip) then removed the adhesive backing on the diffuser, attached it, then took a spare 90 degree bracket placed it over the diffuser. I taped it in place to put pressure on the adhesive and the glue and left it overnight. It is mounted on the strip very well and doesn’t move and there is no mess. I barely touch the strip with the superglue nozzle. I placed the glue in the gaps between the lights. I did lay the diffuser roll out flat and placed some weight on it and let it sit overnight. When the diffuser is shipped, it is rolled up. It is important to lay it flat for at least a day so it can flatten out. Here is a pic of the diffuser after it dried for a day.[quoted image] I have also posted some pics of my game with and without the diffuser. The first two are without and the second two pics are lights with the diffuser. It doesn’t eliminate the stripes but it does tone them down a good bit. This is with the lights at full brightness for colors and white lights. Thanks again AUKraut for the link to the diffuser. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Thanks for the detailed explanation.
Would you say it's enough of an improvement to warrant the additional cost/effort?
Quoted from Bellagio:Here’s a question for anyone that’s using a relay:
I didn’t want the relay just laying in the bottom of the cab unprotected so I put it inside this small electrical box. What are you guys doing with yours?
For my next one I’m thinking about sealing the relay in heat shrink after I wire it up. Anyone think that could cause a problem or have any other ideas?
[quoted image]
These also work very well for stuff like this. And a little cleaner look in my opinion
https://www.amazon.com/Elcoho-Waterproof-Junction-Compatible-Electronic/dp/B07G8S6XLV/ref=mp_s_a_1_4
Quoted from Fytr:Thanks for the detailed explanation.
Would you say it's enough of an improvement to warrant the additional cost/effort?
That’s a tough call. The stripes are reduced but not gone. I do like the fact that the light is diffused from the side and not as harsh for players on the next machine. It’s roughly $8 to test it out (plus shipping) so I figured I would give it a shot. I think on games with ramps and wireforms close to the lights it will cut down on striping and look better than the non-covered versions. I will add some more pics once I put them in my other games.
Quoted from HurryUpPinball:That’s a tough call. The stripes are reduced but not gone. I do like the fact that the light is diffused from the side and not as harsh for players on the next machine. It’s roughly $8 to test it out (plus shipping) so I figured I would give it a shot. I think on games with ramps and wireforms close to the lights it will cut down on striping and look better than the non-covered versions. I will add some more pics once I put them in my other games.
I've often wondered but never tried if a simple smoothed out bead of clear silicone caulk over the LED strip would be enough to defuse the light and minimize strips? Not like you need to adjust them ever again but seems simple enough.
Quoted from Fytr:Thanks for the detailed explanation.
Would you say it's enough of an improvement to warrant the additional cost/effort?
For me: no. You still have the striping, you lose some light intensity, and it's a bit of a pain to glue and have it look neat. I didn't try CA like HurryUpPinball did, I dislike using that stuff around pins due to the fogging effect it has from the fumes and don't know if heat from the LEDs would be an issue. This diffuser also only comes in single row width, not doubles which is all I'm using for my inside installs on my home pins.
Quoted from Yelobird:I've often wondered but never tried if a simple smoothed out bead of clear silicone caulk over the LED strip would be enough to defuse the light and minimize strips? Not like you need to adjust them ever again but seems simple enough.
Haven't tried caulk, but I've tried light coat of white spray paint, and heavy coats of privacy spray paint meant for windows, showers, etc. Both yielded unsatisfactory results. Nothing on the retail market I've found so far that does as well as Pinstadiums diffuser, and he has the volume to work with a plastics house to get them custom made for his.
Quoted from HurryUpPinball:That’s a tough call. The stripes are reduced but not gone. I do like the fact that the light is diffused from the side and not as harsh for players on the next machine. It’s roughly $8 to test it out (plus shipping) so I figured I would give it a shot. I think on games with ramps and wireforms close to the lights it will cut down on striping and look better than the non-covered versions. I will add some more pics once I put them in my other games.
I think that the diffuser would be more effective if it could be mounted further away from the leds, for example if it was a convex shape and could extend from the top edge of the L-channel to the bottom, which would put it 1/4" away from the LEDs.
Quoted from Fytr:I think that the diffuser would be more effective if it could be mounted further away from the leds, for example if it was a convex shape and could extend from the top edge of the L-channel to the bottom, which would put it 1/4" away from the LEDs.
Seems like something like this (painted black) would be a perfect solution. I use them in my game room and they defuse the lights perfectly. Designed with the defuser removable and to fit standard LED Strips at a correct 45 degree playfield projection.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VBL3BNM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00
Quoted from Yelobird:Seems like something like this (painted black) would be a perfect solution. I use them in my game room and they defuse the lights perfectly. Designed with the defuser removable and to fit standard LED Strips at a correct 45 degree playfield projection.
amazon.com link »
Yes, that matches my description. It would be interesting to see how well it works.
Quoted from Yelobird:Seems like something like this (painted black) would be a perfect solution. I use them in my game room and they defuse the lights perfectly. Designed with the defuser removable and to fit standard LED Strips at a correct 45 degree playfield projection.
amazon.com link »
I bought those as well to play with. Mounting is an issue due to weight. Magnet strips will not hold up over time.
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