New! Dark mode!

Browsing Pinside at night? Getting tired of all the white? Switch to dark mode using the button in the top right (or CTRL-B)!

(Topic ID: 206424)

Poor man's Stadium lighting


By Fytr

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 800 posts
  • 157 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 19 hours ago by Danimal551
  • Topic is favorited by 266 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 281 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

20201018_205956 (resized).jpg
20201018_205946 (resized).jpg
F750EFB8-1BE8-43D9-9B89-37E339ADF0A3 (resized).jpeg
22F4B435-8D00-478C-BBBB-EE5C538AE3B3 (resized).png
D552C942-9C49-42D0-9EE9-EEAF213D69B2 (resized).jpeg
B325430F-E6AE-4C22-B5F6-C01DCCEDFF44 (resized).jpeg
IMG-8181 (resized).jpg
771FE418-6A59-421C-A760-A717EA1223BA (resized).jpeg
DEST BandA.jpg
STTNG BandA.jpg
9A7CD5C7-88DB-4E5F-BD2E-9966131DA099.jpeg
303CD3EF-1A51-4E87-9A9A-05AA41AD5507.jpeg
5E223916-2A7F-4BA9-9459-9F9D84BCE1D6.jpeg
577B38AF-9913-456E-910F-2EF56C2ED718.jpeg
3D19A1A8-ECC1-44F2-8EB8-7D305CD2BA64.jpeg
0B9FC8E6-B372-46B3-A17A-2EB0802AFEDD.jpeg

There are 800 posts in this topic. You are on page 16 of 16.
#751 75 days ago

For those of y’all that are interested in building a White or any single color only version of hurryuppinball lights with my WiFi & GI Trigger additions here is the parts list and some pics to guide you along:

LED Light Strip – Daylight White – SMD5050 12V – 16.4 feet of LED
amazon.com link »

LED Light Strip - Cool White - SMD5050 12V - 16.4 feet of LED
amazon.com link »

12V Power Supply
amazon.com link »

Single Color LED WiFi Controller
amazon.com link »

Switch Driver Module
amazon.com link »

Power Cable Connectors
amazon.com link »

22 Gauge Wire
amazon.com link »

Alligator Clips
amazon.com link »

Heat shrink tubing
amazon.com link »

Black 5/8 x 5/8 x 1/16 Corner Guard – 36 inches – 4 pack
amazon.com link »

Scotch 3M Extreme Double Sided-Tape – 400in x 1in
amazon.com link »

Self-Adhesive Flexible Magnetic Tape – 100in x 1/2in
amazon.com link »

Original Gorilla Glue – 2oz bottle
amazon.com link »

Blue Painters Tape

In terms of building the rails, just follow hurryuppinball great videos on youtube for the physical build of the rails.

You will have some soldering to do to make up the GI Trigger with the Switch Driver Module with the 22 gauge cable, alligator clips, and 12V connectors. I removed the screw clamp terminals to instead solder the cables in place directly:

B0A12485-8EBC-4858-8BC2-64F3EE72A4CA_1_201_a.jpeg

You also have to make up another pair of cables to go between the GI Trigger and the light rails, using the 22 gauge cable and 12V connectors:

0B34BA26-16F5-4362-99CA-E0C845357D9C_1_201_a.jpeg

Then finally you have to solder on the 12V connectors to your choice of White LED strips and build the rails:

D06F420E-DC6A-4947-9B94-EBDB9082E8A8_1_201_a.jpeg

Final connectivity will be like this:

D2DE63EC-B472-46A2-A445-A3D2B5D8B2C9_1_201_a.jpeg

1 week later
#752 62 days ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

hurryuppinball I hope I can help here....
Using your videos as a basis for the lighting rails I made, I wanted to have controllable GI lighting and WiFI control for my new lighting rails as well. I ordered the following items from Amazon:
Magic Home RGBW WiFi & IR controller:
amazon.com link »
Switch Driver Module:
amazon.com link »
5 Pin Connector:
amazon.com link »
First, the Magic Home controller is controlled by a free app in the iPhone and Android store, and can also be controlled from a certain premium stadium lighting app as well. Plugging it into the RGBW lighting strip it has to be configured in the app as a RGB & W device type instead of as a RGB / W device type to allow the white LEDs to be controlled separately from the RGB LEDs. That took care of the WiFi App Control...
For the controllable GI I concentrated on controlling the White LEDs. Using the switch driver module, I unsoldered & removed the screw terminals to be able to solder the connections directly. I snipped the 5 pin connector white and black wires and soldered these to the J2 inputs and J3 outputs of the module, Black to positive, White to negative. I then soldered a set of alligator clips with long wires to the control input J1 of the module. I then placed this assembly inline after the WiFi module before the Y connector going to the lighting strips. I then connected the alligator clips directly to a GI socket. Works perfectly, controlling the white LEDs in the strip to match the GI going on/dim/off.
In the app I have the white LEDs set to 100%, and the RGB LEDs set to 25% in a color that enhances the look of the playfield. This gives good lighting in a darkened room and the GI dimming effect. If one really wanted they could use 4 of the switch driver modules to control all RGBW, but I found that leaving the RGB LEDs in a dimmed mode is the right mix to go with the controllable white LEDs. I've attached some pics as well as a short video of the LEDs on, then dimmed, and then back on again at the start of a game of Batman 66. Unfortunately the iPhone video doesn't capture the look as well as it looks in person.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

How did you get to the screen that allows you to change the configuration? I've tried resetting things to factory, and still never come up with that screen.

#753 62 days ago
Quoted from gorditas:

How did you get to the screen that allows you to change the configuration? I've tried resetting things to factory, and still never come up with that screen.

Got some pics to help explain it:

From the main app screen press and hold the controller you want to change, in this case 7229DB

23116ECA-2217-4024-AF48-10C5CEB06427 (resized).jpeg

A sub menu will pop up, select Change device type

4B6AF031-CE39-42AF-964A-5C716A9F6B65 (resized).jpeg

Then under Strip Type select RGB & W, then Confirm

9518A1B1-0E11-4687-9DAD-50DABE836B44 (resized).jpeg

That’s it. An additional menu Option will now show up on the bottom of that device’s menu, allowing you to change RGB and White separately.

#754 62 days ago

I swear I had tried long press. Oh well. Thanks!

HatefulVigilantAmericanredsquirrel-size_restricted (resized).png
#755 57 days ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

For those of y’all that are interested in building a White or any single color only version of hurryuppinball lights with my WiFi & GI Trigger additions here is the parts list and some pics to guide you along:
Final connectivity will be like this:
[quoted image]

Hey aukraut thanks for this Guide. But I should not connect them to flashers or inserts?
In the Discription of these "Switch Driver Modules" stand they "Trigger a signal source: digital high and low level (DC3.3V--20V)" - so did they also work with AC-Signals as a trigger? - I would like to build you kit for Spike2 machines.

Hope you can help me and maybe tell me how it's possible to get the 5V Flasher as an trigger.

Thank you!

#756 53 days ago

Using the Switch Driver Module above I get a very fast flicker can only really tell watching the ball move. Maybe I alligator clipped to a wonkey GI socket? I wonder if there is a more pure trigger voltage that is in sync with the GI ?

#757 53 days ago
Quoted from MightyGrave:

Hey aukraut thanks for this Guide. But I should not connect them to flashers or inserts?
In the Discription of these "Switch Driver Modules" stand they "Trigger a signal source: digital high and low level (DC3.3V--20V)" - so did they also work with AC-Signals as a trigger? - I would like to build you kit for Spike2 machines.
Hope you can help me and maybe tell me how it's possible to get the 5V Flasher as an trigger.
Thank you!

Fair question, as I tried to do the same myself to replicate the UV flasher....and it wouldn't work, the flasher locked on, and I didn't want to take a chance with a Spike 2 node board. For me the primary objective to solve was to light up the dark playfield and to get the GI to trigger the lights off/on, which was achieved. Having had a Pinstadium in the past the UV flasher was distracting to me, so no big loss there to me.

Quoted from KloggMonkey:

Using the Switch Driver Module above I get a very fast flicker can only really tell watching the ball move. Maybe I alligator clipped to a wonkey GI socket? I wonder if there is a more pure trigger voltage that is in sync with the GI ?

Could be, and also verify that you have the positive trigger tied to the positive part of the GI socket as the polarity was shown to make a difference on a CGC MMR. Depending on the pin and the quality of the GI signal it may react differently. So far this setup has been confirmed to work and installed on the GI off of Stern Spike 2 pins (BM66 & Deadpool), Stern SAM (TRON), CGC (MMR Original Run), and a late model Gottlieb (Hoops). I'll be installing a set on a WMS STTNG this weekend.

#758 53 days ago

Yeah I have the same set up on a 1st run MMR that works great. Jackbot has the flicker, pretty sure I have the polarity correct. Solid yellow + and white - for both of these.

I tested hooking into the pop bumper socket as it has an LED that does seem solid, that case was solid green wire + green/white - worked but also had flicker. I'm going to test both my service outlet and the GI circuit for stable power. Then swap lighting parts maybe I got a weird switch driver.

Sorcerer is next.

#759 52 days ago

hmm I am wondering if this is the solution for Jackbot? http://ledocd.com/faq_gi.html

#760 52 days ago
Quoted from KloggMonkey:

Yeah I have the same set up on a 1st run MMR that works great. Jackbot has the flicker, pretty sure I have the polarity correct. Solid yellow + and white - for both of these.
I tested hooking into the pop bumper socket as it has an LED that does seem solid, that case was solid green wire + green/white - worked but also had flicker. I'm going to test both my service outlet and the GI circuit for stable power. Then swap lighting parts maybe I got a weird switch driver.
Sorcerer is next.

Quoted from KloggMonkey:

hmm I am wondering if this is the solution for Jackbot? http://ledocd.com/faq_gi.html

Hmmmm....that could be the solution in some cases!!

#761 50 days ago

Update, ordered this on a wild idea. amazon.com link » put between the GI lamp and the trigger input and bam. Flicker gone. However so are the feature GI effects. I suspect the filter cap is smoothing too much in fact takes about 20 secs with the GI off to go out.

I don't know much about this stuff . If put a smaller cap much less than 3300uf or bypass all together would that potentially do the trick? These boards are like 3 dollars so I may just try it.

#762 50 days ago

Success! I swapped a 10uf 25v in for the 3300uf 25v and now the flicker is gone and I have GI effects. No dimming effects on Jackbot, but the GI on/ff effects work perfectly.

Thanks hurryuppinball and aukraut for the great guides and parts lists. Hopefully my discovery of adding the Rectifier Filter with a swapped cap help others stop the flicker.

#763 49 days ago
Quoted from KloggMonkey:

Success! I swapped a 10uf 25v in for the 3300uf 25v and now the flicker is gone and I have GI effects. No dimming effects on Jackbot, but the GI on/ff effects work perfectly.
Thanks hurryuppinball and aukraut for the great guides and parts lists. Hopefully my discovery of adding the Rectifier Filter with a swapped cap help others stop the flicker.

Clever! Could you share a pic of the swap?

#764 49 days ago

Homemade RGB strips with frosted covers. I think they came out pretty good.

#765 49 days ago
Quoted from KloggMonkey:

Success! I swapped a 10uf 25v in for the 3300uf 25v and now the flicker is gone and I have GI effects. No dimming effects on Jackbot, but the GI on/ff effects work perfectly.
Thanks hurryuppinball and aukraut for the great guides and parts lists. Hopefully my discovery of adding the Rectifier Filter with a swapped cap help others stop the flicker.

Did you made it for a Spike 2 oder wpc Game?

#766 48 days ago
Quoted from MightyGrave:

Did you made it for a Spike 2 oder wpc Game?

Jackbot is a WPC game. The trigger module has been installed on Spike 2, SAM, and a CGC Original MMR without the need for the cap. I imagine on some of the older pins, which now would include WPC, that some of the power supplies may not deliver as clean of a source as they once would have been, thus seeing some effects of the aging components.

Obviously this could be resolved by some custom component PCBs like a certain premium pinball rails maker, however we've tried to replicate the lion's share of the desired results while using straight off the shelf components that are easily obtainable. Thus there may have to be some small tweaks to get things to work on a specific machine.

While I am a trained and licensed electrical engineer, my specialty doesn't lie in microelectronics. However I know that with just a little work a design could be put together and produced to universally solve the issue that KloggMonkey ran across and incorporate it into the trigger module for very little cost.

My next project: to show that you don't need to swallow a blue pill or red pill to get double LED lighting rails......

#767 48 days ago
Quoted from Evilive69:

Homemade RGB strips with frosted covers. I think they came out pretty good.

Care to share a link to the frosted covers?

#768 48 days ago
Quoted from KloggMonkey:

Success! I swapped a 10uf 25v in for the 3300uf 25v and now the flicker is gone and I have GI effects. No dimming effects on Jackbot, but the GI on/ff effects work perfectly.
Thanks hurryuppinball and aukraut for the great guides and parts lists. Hopefully my discovery of adding the Rectifier Filter with a swapped cap help others stop the flicker.

Could I trouble you to share more on this?

#769 48 days ago

my latest creation with 10 old gi sockets powered by ultrabright 6.3 volt leds.
If you use spots you can control the color and places where to light up instead to use strips.

IMG_20200728_201228~01~01 (resized).jpg
#770 48 days ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

Could I trouble you to share more on this?

Here is the original part from amazon.com link »
filter (resized).png

20200901_185732 (resized).jpg
Replaced that big 3300uf 25v cap with a 10uf 25v cap. Input from the alligator clips on the GI. Output goes to the trigger on the Switch Driver Module.
Pardon the long leg I just bent the excess lead out off the way

This setup worked on both Sorcerer and Jackbot to eliminate the A/C GI flicker yet still cycle on/off with the GI. Every effect works on Sorc, JB does not have dimming effects, but the rest do work.

#771 47 days ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

Could I trouble you to share more on this?

amazon.com link »

#772 44 days ago

Update for those of you who are interested in even brighter lighting rails using double row 5050 LED RGB&W strips (and no, they don't cost almost twice as much to make)....

For the double row 5050 LED RGB&W strips you have your choice of warm or cool white for about a $5-6 increase per 5 meter roll:

ebay.com link » 5m Double Row 5050 Smd 600 Rgbw Rgbww Rgb White Flex Led Strip Light 120led M

3DD6D911-6046-434B-BE60-1FDD06C3B230 (resized).jpeg

You will also need to use a bit wider lighting rail plastic (3/4" instead of 5/8") do to the increased width of the double row LED strip:

https://www.outwater.com/products/zz-1935/

The only gotcha is you have to watch the order of the 5 connector contacts as they are in a different order than on a single row 5050 LED RGB&W strip. Do everything else the same as in mine and hurryuppinball instructions. The end results will look like this:

511E6F21-867E-46B6-981A-170ACFABBE06_1_201_a (resized).jpeg

Definitely an improvement in brightness, as one would expect with twice the LEDs. Here is a short video of them installed on my Batman 66.

Everything else stays the same, including WiFi control and GI triggering, all for much less $$$.....

whoa (resized).jpg

#773 44 days ago

I’ve been helping my local pinheads with making some of these lighting rails for them, and one of them is a pinball streamer on Twitch who mentioned he’d love to have a set to use for streaming that is portable and easily movable. Challenge accepted….and here are the results:

Items needed:

Two different sizes/types of plastic molding:

2 x 32in long: 1in x 1in x 7/64in (.100in) Thick Black Styrene Even Leg 135 degree Angle Moulding

https://www.outwater.com/products/1952-bk/

2 x 32in long: 5/8in x 5/8in x 1/16in (.060in) Thick Black Styrene Even Leg 90° Angle Moulding

https://www.outwater.com/products/1934-bk/

2 x 32in Apollo LED Diffuser Cover

https://www.solidapollo.com/78-Milky-LED-Strip-Diffuser/Cover.html

2 x 32in Magnetic Tape:

amazon.com link »

3M Heavy Duty Double Sided Tape:

amazon.com link »

5050 LED (Daylight, Warm, or Cool) White Strip

12V 5A Connector Wires M/F Plug for LED Lighting

amazon.com link »

22AWG Solid Copper Zip Cord

amazon.com link »

12V 2A Power Supply

amazon.com link »

———

Instructions:

Solder and heat shrink female plug wire connectors to 2 31-32” long LED strips

Using a 36” zip cord, a 72” zip cord, 2 male plug wire connectors, and a female plug wire connector make a Y-cable to go between the lighting strips and the power supply (see pic)

Screen Shot 2020-09-05 at 17.13.47.png

Make 2 lighting rails based upon the shown cross-section. Be sure to remember to make a left and right rail set!

Screen Shot 2020-09-05 at 15.56.02.png

Attach the magnetic tape to the 135deg molding with some Gorilla Glue. Let dry for a couple of hours.

Cut the 3M tape to a 32” length, then split it in half the full length using a sharp knife. Attach the 3M piece for the LED Strip to the 135deg molding..

Attach the LED strip to the 3M tape.

Cut the diffuser to 32” and attach it to the LED strip. You may need a bit of Gorilla Glue at the ends to help keep it in place.

Cut another piece of 3M tape to a 32” length, then split it in half the full length using a sharp knife. Attach the 3M piece to the 90deg molding, and then attach it the the 135” molding as shown.

Here are the results:

540E572F-C5E0-45F9-8C09-86A7FDC6EAE6.jpeg

2D9E07CC-FCA8-4223-8A6E-1A06C6C9D710.jpeg

3D19A1A8-ECC1-44F2-8EB8-7D305CD2BA64.jpeg

0B9FC8E6-B372-46B3-A17A-2EB0802AFEDD.jpeg

Before pic:

577B38AF-9913-456E-910F-2EF56C2ED718.jpeg

After pic:

303CD3EF-1A51-4E87-9A9A-05AA41AD5507.jpeg

Closeup installed:

5E223916-2A7F-4BA9-9459-9F9D84BCE1D6.jpeg

Streaming camera view:

9A7CD5C7-88DB-4E5F-BD2E-9966131DA099.jpeg

#774 41 days ago

Excellent write-up, and a very nice idea!

Thanks for sharing!

#775 41 days ago

I like the concept, and would love to implement this but the final photo poses two problems. First, those diffusers don't seen to work at all. You still clearly see the morse code like LED strip. Secondly, from this angle and height, 90% of the light is directed toward the sides of the game and is reflected by plastics, etc. I think an optimal solution for streaming needs to sit higher using some sort of magnetic standoffs to make that 45 degree light reach the middle of the PF.

#776 41 days ago
Quoted from wxforecaster:

I like the concept, and would love to implement this but the final photo poses two problems. First, those diffusers don't seen to work at all. You still clearly see the morse code like LED strip. Secondly, from this angle and height, 90% of the light is directed toward the sides of the game and is reflected by plastics, etc. I think an optimal solution for streaming needs to sit higher using some sort of magnetic standoffs to make that 45 degree light reach the middle of the PF.

Valid concerns, and I will say the pictures don't capture it well. We used them last night at our league finals as a test and everyone was extremely impressed with them, the whole playfield was nicely illuminated with no glare. Yes, if you look at the diffuser directly you can still see where the LEDs are, however on the metal ramps the striping effect was almost totally eliminated. The problem with sitting it higher away from the play field is the angle can cause the player to see a reflection. With these the player sees no reflection while playing.

The design of these closely emulates the ones that Pinstadium sells that are used at Pinburgh as well as by streamers like Jack Danger. If you look at their Xstream installed pics the lighting angle on my design above is actually aimed better to the middle than the Xstreams are. Mine really worked great last night, and our resident streamer took them home to use on his streams.

Cost breakdown for making 3 sets of these including shipping:

5M of Daylight White LEDs: $13 Amazon
18 ft each of 5/8' 90Deg Molding & 135deg Molding: $50 Outwater Plastics
Diffuser: $32 Solid Apollo
12V Pigtail Connectors: $10 Amazon
Magnetic Tape (100 ft): $32 Amazon
3M Double sided Tape: $22 Amazon
22 AWG Zip Cord (50 ft): $8 Amazon
12V Power Supply (4 pack): $22 Amazon
Gorilla Glue: $5

Total for 3 sets: $194
Price per set: $65

Basically 1/4 of the cost of Xstreams with the same functionality, plus you have stuff left over for other regular lighting rails. Just takes a little time and soldering....

#777 40 days ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

Valid concerns, and I will say the pictures don't capture it well. We used them last night at our league finals as a test and everyone was extremely impressed with them, the whole playfield was nicely illuminated with no glare. Yes, if you look at the diffuser directly you can still see where the LEDs are, however on the metal ramps the striping effect was almost totally eliminated. The problem with sitting it higher away from the play field is the angle can cause the player to see a reflection. With these the player sees no reflection while playing.
The design of these closely emulates the ones that Pinstadium sells that are used at Pinburgh as well as by streamers like Jack Danger. If you look at their Xstream installed pics the lighting angle on my design above is actually aimed better to the middle than the Xstreams are. Mine really worked great last night, and our resident streamer took them home to use on his streams.
Cost breakdown for making 3 sets of these including shipping:
5M of Daylight White LEDs: $13 Amazon
18 ft each of 5/8' 90Deg Molding & 135deg Molding: $50 Outwater Plastics
Diffuser: $32 Solid Apollo
12V Pigtail Connectors: $10 Amazon
Magnetic Tape (100 ft): $32 Amazon
3M Double sided Tape: $22 Amazon
22 AWG Zip Cord (50 ft): $8 Amazon
12V Power Supply (4 pack): $22 Amazon
Gorilla Glue: $5
Total for 3 sets: $194
Price per set: $65
Basically 1/4 of the cost of Xstreams with the same functionality, plus you have stuff left over for other regular lighting rails. Just takes a little time and soldering....

Very cool! And thanks for the excellent write-up. Time to update the FAQ to include some of these amazing new projects...

#778 39 days ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

Cost breakdown for making 3 sets of these including shipping:
5M of Daylight White LEDs: $13 Amazon
18 ft each of 5/8' 90Deg Molding & 135deg Molding: $50 Outwater Plastics
Diffuser: $32 Solid Apollo
12V Pigtail Connectors: $10 Amazon
Magnetic Tape (100 ft): $32 Amazon
3M Double sided Tape: $22 Amazon
22 AWG Zip Cord (50 ft): $8 Amazon
12V Power Supply (4 pack): $22 Amazon
Gorilla Glue: $5
Total for 3 sets: $194
Price per set: $65

Great info!! Thank you for sharing

#779 39 days ago

Here is a before and after of a STTNG of the portable lighting rails from post #773 above after my friend took them home & placed them on the pin.

STTNG BandA.jpg

Then he moved them to a DataEast Star Trek:

DEST BandA.jpg
#780 38 days ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

Valid concerns, and I will say the pictures don't capture it well. We used them last night at our league finals as a test and everyone was extremely impressed with them, the whole playfield was nicely illuminated with no glare. Yes, if you look at the diffuser directly you can still see where the LEDs are, however on the metal ramps the striping effect was almost totally eliminated. The problem with sitting it higher away from the play field is the angle can cause the player to see a reflection. With these the player sees no reflection while playing.
The design of these closely emulates the ones that Pinstadium sells that are used at Pinburgh as well as by streamers like Jack Danger. If you look at their Xstream installed pics the lighting angle on my design above is actually aimed better to the middle than the Xstreams are. Mine really worked great last night, and our resident streamer took them home to use on his streams.
Cost breakdown for making 3 sets of these including shipping:
5M of Daylight White LEDs: $13 Amazon
18 ft each of 5/8' 90Deg Molding & 135deg Molding: $50 Outwater Plastics
Diffuser: $32 Solid Apollo
12V Pigtail Connectors: $10 Amazon
Magnetic Tape (100 ft): $32 Amazon
3M Double sided Tape: $22 Amazon
22 AWG Zip Cord (50 ft): $8 Amazon
12V Power Supply (4 pack): $22 Amazon
Gorilla Glue: $5
Total for 3 sets: $194
Price per set: $65
Basically 1/4 of the cost of Xstreams with the same functionality, plus you have stuff left over for other regular lighting rails. Just takes a little time and soldering....

Again, thank you for your work. My concerns are not so much from the person's experience playing them, but what you see on camera, since the advent of these was for streaming purposes. I assume that what you see pictured is what you'd see on stream. If anyone has a twitch/YT/FB live feed of streaming a game with these, I'd love to see it. Looks like a fun build and you definitely have the costs right. Ideally you'd only need a single pair for streaming, so build 3, sell the other 2 at $100 each, and enjoy the fruits of your labor

#781 38 days ago
Quoted from wxforecaster:

Again, thank you for your work. My concerns are not so much from the person's experience playing them, but what you see on camera, since the advent of these was for streaming purposes. I assume that what you see pictured is what you'd see on stream. If anyone has a twitch/YT/FB live feed of streaming a game with these, I'd love to see it. Looks like a fun build and you definitely have the costs right. Ideally you'd only need a single pair for streaming, so build 3, sell the other 2 at $100 each, and enjoy the fruits of your labor

Sure thing, once my friend streams with these I'll post a link!

#782 38 days ago

Note on post 772 above involving the double row 5050 RGBW LED: the rgb order is rolled compared to the single row 5050 RGBW LEDs. I was looking at them installed last night and something didn’t look right, and discovered that when I took the strip that was factory connected and changed the color it worked correctly, however the other strip that I soldered and connected the colors didn’t match.

So I took them a short while ago and removed the heatshrink double checking my soldering. It looked good and the wires looked to be correctly color match. So I’d then removed the factory soldered strip and found this:

771FE418-6A59-421C-A760-A717EA1223BA (resized).jpeg

Wow! I went in and resoldered my connector, and now the colors selected in the app match the colors displayed on the strip. Makes zero sense why they did this with the double row 5050 strips....smh!!!

#783 38 days ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

Note on post 772 above involving the double row 5050 RGBW LED: the rgb order is rolled compared to the single row 5050 RGBW LEDs. I was looking at them installed last night and something didn’t look right, and discovered that when I took the strip that was factory connected and changed the color it worked correctly, however the other strip that I soldered and connected the colors didn’t match.
So I took them a short while ago and removed the heatshrink double checking my soldering. It looked good and the wires looked to be correctly color match. So I’d then removed the factory soldered strip and found this:
[quoted image]
Wow! I went in and resoldered my connector, and now the colors selected in the app match the colors displayed on the strip. Makes zero sense why they did this with the double row 5050 strips....smh!!!

That happens a lot with these led strips, the RGB don't ever seem to match what they are supposed to.

1 week later
#784 27 days ago

hurryuppinball I made 2 sets yesterday using your video as instructions. Went smoothly overall, just used a bit too much glue so needed some clean up. Thanks very much for taking the time to share! Looking forward to seeing the result in my Last Action Hero.

IMG-8181 (resized).jpg
2 weeks later
#785 12 days ago

I'd like to connect my stadium lights to my GI lights so they go on and off with together while playing games. Can I tie them straight it in with the 12v power or do I need a relay of some sort? I'm planning on doing this to two of my data east games. Thanks in advance.

#786 12 days ago
Quoted from Roy6585:

I'd like to connect my stadium lights to my GI lights so they go on and off with together while playing games. Can I tie them straight it in with the 12v power or do I need a relay of some sort? I'm planning on doing this to two of my data east games. Thanks in advance.

Assuming the GI in your game runs at 6.7VAC, and you need to run the stadium lights at 12VDC, no, you cannot simply connect the GI to the strips, they require different amounts and types of power to run.

See this build link as a reference: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/poor-mans-stadium-lighting/page/16#post-5782455

In particular, you will need to run the strips off of a 12vDC adapter and connect the GI to a relay module that will turn the 12v on and off to the strips in sync with the GI going on and off.

#787 12 days ago

AUKraut, to go with the double-wide strips, what changes are needed in post 773? Do they also sell diffusers that would fit over the wider strips?

#788 11 days ago
Quoted from wxforecaster:

AUKraut, to go with the double-wide strips, what changes are needed in post 773? Do they also sell diffusers that would fit over the wider strips?

Biggest change is the 12V power supply requirements, as post 773 uses a single white LED strip with on a 2 wire connector whereas a double (or single) RGB&W strip uses 5 pin connectors & their associated power supplys & controllers. I haven't done it myself as the standard 5 pin connectors and cables are a bit less sturdy than 2 wire connectors and zip cords. With the constant movement swapping the portable set from one machine to another I'd rather have things a bit sturdier, hence having done them only with white LEDs. Don't get me wrong, it could be done for RGB&W sets as well, I'd recommend looking at some cable like shown in the following link to use in a RGB&W portable set:

amazon.com link »

I haven't looked for a 2 strip wide diffuser, but do know the one shown in post 773 isn't wide enough. The diffusers in general are a bit of a pain, as they are very finicky to attach permanently. You will end up having to use some glue at the ends and clamping it while it dries to keep it in place. I'd love to find a lower profile version of these mounts to us, but haven't found them yet:

ebay.com link » 6 12pcs 3 3ft Each Diy Led Strip Aluminum Channel Holder U Shape W Cover 1m

#789 8 days ago

So I took a few things from this thread and made my own version.

This uses the dual channel relay a RGBW controller for GI lighting and using the second channel UV flashers.

At this point there are enough links to parts so here are some photos and how it’s wired.

On the left of the relay with 6 outputs I daisy chained the COMS together and ran a jumper from COM2 to the DC+.

I then spliced the Black wire of a RGBW jumper and hooked the one side to the DC+ and one to NO1

I attached a long extension wire from DC- to use as a connecting point for the many grounds.

I then took a MALE and a FEMALE 12V plug and hooked the + to the DC+ and the - to DC-

The DC+ is also where I connected the other end of the BLACK wire coming from the RGBW controller.

I plugged the MALE power run in to the RGBW controller and left the FEMALE plug to attach to a 12V power supply of your choosing.

Then attach a set of wires as a trigger. I took the red to IN2 in this example and the black to the DC-. Then attach alligator clips to the trigger wire.

If you want UV flashers simply add another trigger and a second setup on the other channel similar to this.

Set the black jumpers to HIGH to have the lights turn on with the game. If you set them LOW the lights will turn on when game lights turn off which is probably not what you want.

Follow the other guides on construction setup of your light strips.

Hope this helps anyone else who was trying to get RGBW GI with WiFi control + UV Flashers on a single relay.

I have bench tested this with no issue. Just waiting on glue to dry before I take this to a machine.

I knows it’s not pretty but it was a first run. I am sure I will come up with a better hookup on the next one.

Thanks!
B325430F-E6AE-4C22-B5F6-C01DCCEDFF44 (resized).jpegD552C942-9C49-42D0-9EE9-EEAF213D69B2 (resized).jpeg

#790 6 days ago
Quoted from rapidflipper:

hurryuppinball I made 2 sets yesterday using your video as instructions. Went smoothly overall, just used a bit too much glue so needed some clean up. Thanks very much for taking the time to share! Looking forward to seeing the result in my Last Action Hero.
[quoted image]

Those look great. I have made several new sets as well. For anyone wondering about a mobile set, I dropped a basic set of these lights on top of the glass for my Whitewater stream last week and they worked great. I am going to add some 135 degree angled plastic / magnetic tape so I can secure them to the rails. The lights were not set at 100% for brightness for colors or white lights since I am trying to balance the lights with the playfield camera. https://www.twitch.tv/videos/763776005

22F4B435-8D00-478C-BBBB-EE5C538AE3B3 (resized).png
#791 5 days ago
Quoted from Bos98:

So I took a few things from this thread and made my own version.
This uses the dual channel relay a RGBW controller for GI lighting and using the second channel UV flashers.
At this point there are enough links to parts so here are some photos and how it’s wired.
On the left of the relay with 6 outputs I daisy chained the COMS together and ran a jumper from COM2 to the DC+.
I then spliced the Black wire of a RGBW jumper and hooked the one side to the DC+ and one to NO1
I attached a long extension wire from DC- to use as a connecting point for the many grounds.
I then took a MALE and a FEMALE 12V plug and hooked the + to the DC+ and the - to DC-
The DC+ is also where I connected the other end of the BLACK wire coming from the RGBW controller.
I plugged the MALE power run in to the RGBW controller and left the FEMALE plug to attach to a 12V power supply of your choosing.
Then attach a set of wires as a trigger. I took the red to IN2 in this example and the black to the DC-. Then attach alligator clips to the trigger wire.
If you want UV flashers simply add another trigger and a second setup on the other channel similar to this.
Set the black jumpers to HIGH to have the lights turn on with the game. If you set them LOW the lights will turn on when game lights turn off which is probably not what you want.
Follow the other guides on construction setup of your light strips.
Hope this helps anyone else who was trying to get RGBW GI with WiFi control + UV Flashers on a single relay.
I have bench tested this with no issue. Just waiting on glue to dry before I take this to a machine.
I knows it’s not pretty but it was a first run. I am sure I will come up with a better hookup on the next one.
Thanks!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Bos98
So are you just using the AC signal from the GI to trigger the relay and not converting it to DC first?
Also if that is the case, you would be sharing the ground with both AC and DC, is that ok?

#792 5 days ago
Quoted from Fytr:

Assuming the GI in your game runs at 6.7VAC, and you need to run the stadium lights at 12VDC, no, you cannot simply connect the GI to the strips, they require different amounts and types of power to run.
See this build link as a reference: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/poor-mans-stadium-lighting/page/16#post-5782455
In particular, you will need to run the strips off of a 12vDC adapter and connect the GI to a relay module that will turn the 12v on and off to the strips in sync with the GI going on and off.

Okay, I've made up a couple sets ready to install on to two of my machines. I'm just wondering if I'm hooking up both red and black alligator clips to one of my GI lamps or do I need to hook up the black to a ground?

Thanks again for the help .

#793 5 days ago
Quoted from Roy6585:

Okay, I've made up a couple sets ready to install on to two of my machines. I'm just wondering if I'm hooking up both red and black alligator clips to one of my GI lamps or do I need to hook up the black to a ground?
Thanks again for the help .

Both to the same socket, one for each wire connecting to the socket. Careful!

#794 4 days ago
Quoted from Roy6585:

Okay, I've made up a couple sets ready to install on to two of my machines. I'm just wondering if I'm hooking up both red and black alligator clips to one of my GI lamps or do I need to hook up the black to a ground?
Thanks again for the help .

Quoted from Fytr:

Both to the same socket, one for each wire connecting to the socket. Careful!

Correct: on the same socket, and depending on the pin the orientation will matter, and on others it won't. Putting the black to the outside of the socket (if it's a bayonet 44/47 type) should make it work.

#795 2 days ago

Here is an updated design.

Dual channel relay:

Channel 1 RGBW
Channel 2 UV Flashers

Different RGBWW controller to allow separate WiFi control of the White brightness from the color selection and color brightness.

I do not have the trigger wires connected in this photo but all you need is black wire from both sets of trigger wires to DC- and then the Red wire from one trigger to IN1 and the other red wire to IN2.

F750EFB8-1BE8-43D9-9B89-37E339ADF0A3 (resized).jpeg
#796 2 days ago
Quoted from Bos98:

Here is an updated design.
Dual channel relay:
Channel 1 RGBW
Channel 2 UV Flashers
Different RGBWW controller to allow separate WiFi control of the White brightness from the color selection and color brightness.
I do not have the trigger wires connected in this photo but all you need is black wire from both sets of trigger wires to DC- and then the Red wire from one trigger to IN1 and the other red wire to IN2.
[quoted image]

Awesome! Do you have a link for the new controller and relay?

#797 2 days ago
Quoted from Fytr:

Awesome! Do you have a link for the new controller and relay?

Controller: LEDENET Smart WiFi LED Controller 5 Channels Control 4A5CH CW/WW RGB RGBW RGBWW LED light, Timer Music Group Sync Controller amazon.com link »

Relay: DaFuRui 4Pcs DC 12V 2 Channel... amazon.com link »

#798 1 day ago

Finished my Stadium lights on my Baywatch machine. I'm using the same relay that everybody on this thread is using with rgbw lights. I have the power wired up after the switch for the machine so it fully shuts the power off and on with the machine. I also added one color LED lights under the cabinet tied into the same relay so they flash with the stadium lights.

20201018_205946 (resized).jpg20201018_205956 (resized).jpg
#799 22 hours ago
Quoted from Danimal551:

Finished my Stadium lights on my Baywatch machine.

Very nice! Did you use the bare LED strip or the diffusors?

#800 19 hours ago
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

Very nice! Did you use the bare LED strip or the diffusors?

Just the bare leds with no diffuser. I have the whites turned all the way up and the colors turned to a very light blue to match the water theme. The only spot you can really tell that the lights are not diffused is on the launch ball rail, but i dont mind.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 49.99
Electronics
PinballElectronics.com
$ 30.00
Electronics
Third Coast Pinball
$ 17.00
$ 8.00
Electronics
Third Coast Pinball
From: $ 20.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
From: $ 5.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
$ 90.00
There are 800 posts in this topic. You are on page 16 of 16.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside