Medusa
Bally, 1981Quoted from HurryUpPinball:I just finished uploading a tutorial regarding how to install the playfield lights form my first tutorial. I made short and long versions of this video. If you plan on building and installing these lights, be sure to check out the full versions of each.
Full Version:Short HurryUp Version:
nice job man, thanks for taking the time to post step by step video
Quoted from DudeRegular:There has been tons of great discussion in this thread. Your post/vids are really great for putting a ton of information together in a great package. I think I may actually order up some parts and try to make a set now. Thanks a ton man!
I may play around with some different controllers (WiFi & Bluetooth) as that is an option with these lights. It’s easy to swap the sensor box. When I get a chance, I’ll be sure to post an update.
Quoted from HurryUpPinball:I may play around with some different controllers (WiFi & Bluetooth) as that is an option with these lights. It’s easy to swap the sensor box. When I get a chance, I’ll be sure to post an update.
Thanks for the awesome walk-throughs and videos, they get me closer to building my own. Question - Have you tried to include a relay to tie them in with the GI for on/off sync? Several of my machines dim and power off the GI for effects and I would like to preserve that feature. This is the main reason why I've avoided building these lights and is the reason I've purchased a set of Pinstadiums in the past.
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:Thanks for the awesome walk-throughs and videos, they get me closer to building my own. Question - Have you tried to include a relay to tie them in with the GI for on/off sync? Several of my machines dim and power off the GI for effects and I would like to preserve that feature. This is the main reason why I've avoided building these lights and is the reason I've purchased a set of Pinstadiums in the past.
Depends if you want to drop a few more bucks into the system. I used a Game On Interactive Power Supply on my ST:TNG. Rock Custom Pinball makes them and sells them for $45. I rewired my auxiliary 110 power supply to come on and off with the game switch. After that it's pretty much Plug and Play. Positive is the lights go on and off with the game. You also have additional leads to power other 12 volt accessories. The only negative was that most of the cheap LED controllers reset if you switch them on and off three times quickly. So when you go into multi-ball mode LED lights go back to the factory original when the lights start going on and off. To overcome this I had to buy a bit more expensive LED controller that did not reset by turning it on and off.
Here is what worked for me for GI integration (Which was a must have for me). I wasn't able to use the GI Relay approach described in this thread. It just didn't work for me. Perhaps because i'm not using a separate 12V power supply, but is using 12V straight from the machine.
But using really cheap parts from china, i built this little "GI controller board". It keeps a total separation between the machines GI and the new LED strips:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/poor-mans-stadium-lighting/page/8#post-4634907
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/poor-mans-stadium-lighting/page/8#post-4638294
I realise this approach isn't for anyone, but it is actually really easy to build...
Hi!
Need some help: I've been using ca. 5 x one-inch long velcro tape pieces to attach the stadium lightning bar to the cabinet. However, the leds strips I am using are getting somewhat hot when playing and I notice that the velcro-tape glue seems to start melting a bit in such manner that I have to adjust the lightning bars quite often. I have also tried magnetic tape instead of velcro, but with those it seems that the magnetic strips seems to attach to each other too well, while the magnetic tape attached to the bar seemed to cave in.
What kind of velcro tapes are you using - I would prefer using velcro instead of the magnetic tape, but I would just need to get the velcro stick to the bar. Is there some holy grail of a velcro tape, whose glue can hold up to heat?
Thanks for any tips!
Quoted from Nepi23:Hi!
Need some help: I've been using ca. 5 x one-inch long velcro tape pieces to attach the stadium lightning bar to the cabinet. However, the leds strips I am using are getting somewhat hot when playing and I notice that the velcro-tape glue seems to start melting a bit in such manner that I have to adjust the lightning bars quite often. I have also tried magnetic tape instead of velcro, but with those it seems that the magnetic strips seems to attach to each other too well, while the magnetic tape attached to the bar seemed to cave in.
What kind of velcro tapes are you using - I would prefer using velcro instead of the magnetic tape, but I would just need to get the velcro stick to the bar. Is there some holy grail of a velcro tape, whose glue can hold up to heat?
Thanks for any tips!
Epoxy the strip on.
Quoted from Nepi23:Hi!
Need some help: I've been using ca. 5 x one-inch long velcro tape pieces to attach the stadium lightning bar to the cabinet. However, the leds strips I am using are getting somewhat hot when playing and I notice that the velcro-tape glue seems to start melting a bit in such manner that I have to adjust the lightning bars quite often. I have also tried magnetic tape instead of velcro, but with those it seems that the magnetic strips seems to attach to each other too well, while the magnetic tape attached to the bar seemed to cave in.
What kind of velcro tapes are you using - I would prefer using velcro instead of the magnetic tape, but I would just need to get the velcro stick to the bar. Is there some holy grail of a velcro tape, whose glue can hold up to heat?
Thanks for any tips!
I used this. It works great - maybe too great. I have to separate my lights from the cabinet by running a credit card through the Velcro. It really holds. Super strong adhesive, too. Cut the strips down to 1/2” wide.
39372E37-716A-4B17-A8AD-7AFD45F4A58B (resized).jpegQuoted from Nepi23:Hi!
Need some help: I've been using ca. 5 x one-inch long velcro tape pieces to attach the stadium lightning bar to the cabinet. However, the leds strips I am using are getting somewhat hot when playing and I notice that the velcro-tape glue seems to start melting a bit in such manner that I have to adjust the lightning bars quite often. I have also tried magnetic tape instead of velcro, but with those it seems that the magnetic strips seems to attach to each other too well, while the magnetic tape attached to the bar seemed to cave in.
What kind of velcro tapes are you using - I would prefer using velcro instead of the magnetic tape, but I would just need to get the velcro stick to the bar. Is there some holy grail of a velcro tape, whose glue can hold up to heat?
Thanks for any tips!
lowes sells some 3m velcro tape and it is crazy strong.
Quoted from SadSack:Did the super poorman's stadium lighting on my slugfest. The strip is only glued directly in the cross bar. I used a wall wart from a router. It's just plugged straight into the service outlet.[quoted image][quoted image]
Looks good
Sorry if this has been answered already, total noob. I have a Black Knight Pro. There are 2 separate GIs, white and red, but operate independently and have dimming effects. I'd like to make stadiums with both a white strip and a red-only strip and tie them into the GI power of each so they are game operated. They are 12v LED strips, and I calculated about .5 amp for all the white, .5 amp for all the red.
I think the GI is 6.2 volt DC power, but not 100% sure on that. Can anyone confirm?
Would it be safe to tap a GI wire with a 12 vdc step up converter? They are like $12 on Amazon. Then just a y-connector from the step up to the strips. Please someone tell me if I'm going to blow something up. I doubt it those because these strip aren't the dense ones and don't pull much power at all. Thanks.
Don’t think You will blow up something but select the 5V usb version of the led strip. This you can run at 6V. Much easier as a step up converter.
I haven't been on pinside in a long time and there is way too many Post in this thread to read them all, LOL. I have the no name as we will call them Stadium lights in my games I bought one of them that turns all the Stadium lights on and off with all the game lighting so everything goes together via a relay. I bought another four without that relay. I now regret it because it looks way better to have the stadium lights turn on and off with all the other game lighting. My question is can someone point me in the direction of a good relay to buy to do this, and a quick tutorial on how to do it?
Quoted from QuarterGrabber:I haven't been on pinside in a long time and there is way too many Post in this thread to read them all, LOL. I have the no name as we will call them Stadium lights in my games I bought one of them that turns all the Stadium lights on and off with all the game lighting so everything goes together via a relay. I bought another four without that relay. I now regret it because it looks way better to have the stadium lights turn on and off with all the other game lighting. My question is can someone point me in the direction of a good relay to buy to do this, and a quick tutorial on how to do it?
What games do you have the lighting installed on? And what voltage leds are you using?
Quoted from Kawydud:Built a quick set for Sorcerer, used warm white 5 volt strips. Happy with the results.[quoted image]
looks great
Quoted from Kawydud:What games do you have the lighting installed on? And what voltage leds are you using?
I have the one that already has the relay installed in my Ironman ve. I also have them in X-Men Lord of the Rings and Terminator 2. Terminator 2 it is hooked up to the main power supply where the plug receptacle is. Into the 12 volt. On Lord of the Rings and X-Men it is hooked up to where you hook up all the mods for power. That little extra power cord thingy on the side. Hope that makes sense?
Quoted from QuarterGrabber:I have the one that already has the relay installed in my Ironman ve. I also have them in X-Men Lord of the Rings and Terminator 2. Terminator 2 it is hooked up to the main power supply where the plug receptacle is. Into the 12 volt. On Lord of the Rings and X-Men it is hooked up to where you hook up all the mods for power. That little extra power cord thingy on the side. Hope that makes sense?
I bought a couple of these to try in my Iron Maiden, triggered by the GI. I will let you know how they work.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LW15A4W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00
Quoted from Kawydud:I bought a couple of these to try in my Iron Maiden, triggered by the GI. I will let you know how they work.
amazon.com link »
Thank you so much! Let me know how to wire them to, LOL
Worked more on Sorcerer this morning. Connected the 12 volt RGBW strip on the top of the angle. It was there before, just didn't get to wire it. Hooked up the relay that I bought, but when I was done it was chattering a lot. Figured out why, it is a 5vdc relay, GI is 5VAC. So I just used red for the top and let it stay on when the GI cuts out. Actually looks pretty good.
Quoted from Kawydud:Worked more on Sorcerer this morning. Connected the 12 volt RGBW strip on the top of the
I was gonna say you can get a little bridge rectifier to switch the relay, but that looks sick...
Quoted from dudah:I was gonna say you can get a little bridge rectifier to switch the relay, but that looks sick...
I thought about the bridge rectifier as well, after all my work it would have just been as easy to put a red strip of 12 volt instead of the rgbw. Wouldn't have needed the controller and all the wiring. At least I have the option of changing the color if I want.
Quoted from Kawydud:Worked more on Sorcerer this morning. Connected the 12 volt RGBW strip on the top of the angle. It was there before, just didn't get to wire it. Hooked up the relay that I bought, but when I was done it was chattering a lot. Figured out why, it is a 5vdc relay, GI is 5VAC. So I just used red for the top and let it stay on when the GI cuts out. Actually looks pretty good.
nice
Quoted from Kawydud:I thought about the bridge rectifier as well, after all my work it would have just been as easy to put a red strip of 12 volt instead of the rgbw. Wouldn't have needed the controller and all the wiring. At least I have the option of changing the color if I want.
Red looks great! I made a hack rectifier for my Metallica set by removing the LED chip from an LED bulb itself wired to the GI and then wiring the leads from the now missing LED chip into the relay 5v DC in (the LED bulb rectifies the AC to DC itself for the DC LED it uses). Worked well.
Quoted from Fytr:Red looks great! I made a hack rectifier for my Metallica set by removing the LED chip from an LED bulb itself wired to the GI and then wiring the leads from the now missing LED chip into the relay 5v DC in (the LED bulb rectifies the AC to DC itself for the DC LED it uses). Worked well.
Yeah, a bunch of ways to get it accomplished. If my basement wasn't so dark, I probably would mess with it some more. I really love how the red looks when the GI cuts out. Tried it with a couple different colors, but red was my favorite.
Quoted from Kawydud:I bought a couple of these to try in my Iron Maiden, triggered by the GI. I will let you know how they work.
amazon.com link »
Did these ever come in? And can you give a quick tutorial on install?
Quoted from QuarterGrabber:Did these ever come in? And can you give a quick tutorial on install?
They did come in, I haven't put them on Iron Maiden yet, tried them on Sorcerer, but Sorcerer is AC voltage. They worked ok, but coil was buzzing because of the ac current. I will try to get a set installed on Iron Maiden this weekend hopefully. They are pretty straight forward to connect.
Quoted from Kawydud:They did come in, I haven't put them on Iron Maiden yet, tried them on Sorcerer, but Sorcerer is AC voltage. They worked ok, but coil was buzzing because of the ac current. I will try to get a set installed on Iron Maiden this weekend hopefully. They are pretty straight forward to connect.
Thank you! I need to use them so all of my pin Stadium lights turn on and off with all the other GI lights on the game. Is that what you will be doing with them? Would you be able to do a quick tutorial for me? Because I don't know electrical stuff too well
Quoted from HurryUpPinball:I may play around with some different controllers (WiFi & Bluetooth) as that is an option with these lights. It’s easy to swap the sensor box. When I get a chance, I’ll be sure to post an update.
Quoted from HurryUpPinball:I have not tried installing a relay for a tie in to the GI yet. If anyone has advice on how to tie these in it would be much appreciated. I have run these independent of the GI for simplicity sake but improvements are always on my mind.
HurryUpPinball I hope I can help here....
Using your videos as a basis for the lighting rails I made, I wanted to have controllable GI lighting and WiFI control for my new lighting rails as well. I ordered the following items from Amazon:
Magic Home RGBW WiFi & IR controller:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QG7HCZG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00
Switch Driver Module:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B087F88WLM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00
5 Pin Connector:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MNRR153/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00
First, the Magic Home controller is controlled by a free app in the iPhone and Android store, and can also be controlled from a certain premium stadium lighting app as well. Plugging it into the RGBW lighting strip it has to be configured in the app as a RGB & W device type instead of as a RGB / W device type to allow the white LEDs to be controlled separately from the RGB LEDs. That took care of the WiFi App Control...
For the controllable GI I concentrated on controlling the White LEDs. Using the switch driver module, I unsoldered & removed the screw terminals to be able to solder the connections directly. I snipped the 5 pin connector white and black wires and soldered these to the J2 inputs and J3 outputs of the module, Black to positive, White to negative. I then soldered a set of alligator clips with long wires to the control input J1 of the module. I then placed this assembly inline after the WiFi module before the Y connector going to the lighting strips. I then connected the alligator clips directly to a GI socket. Works perfectly, controlling the white LEDs in the strip to match the GI going on/dim/off.
In the app I have the white LEDs set to 100%, and the RGB LEDs set to 25% in a color that enhances the look of the playfield. This gives good lighting in a darkened room and the GI dimming effect. If one really wanted they could use 4 of the switch driver modules to control all RGBW, but I found that leaving the RGB LEDs in a dimmed mode is the right mix to go with the controllable white LEDs. I've attached some pics as well as a short video of the LEDs on, then dimmed, and then back on again at the start of a game of Batman 66. Unfortunately the iPhone video doesn't capture the look as well as it looks in person.
1FD76C20-8036-4C52-BD09-3B3462D48D6F_1_201_a.jpeg
5086C933-74D4-47FC-88F3-1DF9B2C79BCC_1_201_a.jpeg
20284EF4-7DA4-4498-8751-45C9EF3EDF94_1_201_a.jpeg
912C4392-659F-4F13-9C93-355112A0EB2F_1_201_a.jpeg
Quoted from AUKraut:hurryuppinball I hope I can help here....
Using your videos as a basis for the lighting rails I made, I wanted to have controllable GI lighting and WiFI control for my new lighting rails as well. I ordered the following items from Amazon:
Magic Home RGBW WiFi & IR controller:
amazon.com link »
Switch Driver Module:
amazon.com link »
5 Pin Connector:
amazon.com link »
First, the Magic Home controller is controlled by a free app in the iPhone and Android store, and can also be controlled from a certain premium stadium lighting app as well. Plugging it into the RGBW lighting strip it has to be configured in the app as a RGB & W device type instead of as a RGB / W device type to allow the white LEDs to be controlled separately from the RGB LEDs. That took care of the WiFi App Control...
For the controllable GI I concentrated on controlling the White LEDs. Using the switch driver module, I unsoldered & removed the screw terminals to be able to solder the connections directly. I snipped the 5 pin connector white and black wires and soldered these to the J2 inputs and J3 outputs of the module, Black to positive, White to negative. I then soldered a set of alligator clips with long wires to the control input J1 of the module. I then placed this assembly inline after the WiFi module before the Y connector going to the lighting strips. I then connected the alligator clips directly to a GI socket. Works perfectly, controlling the white LEDs in the strip to match the GI going on/dim/off.
In the app I have the white LEDs set to 100%, and the RGB LEDs set to 25% in a color that enhances the look of the playfield. This gives good lighting in a darkened room and the GI dimming effect. If one really wanted they could use 4 of the switch driver modules to control all RGBW, but I found that leaving the RGB LEDs in a dimmed mode is the right mix to go with the controllable white LEDs. I've attached some pics as well as a short video of the LEDs on, then dimmed, and then back on again at the start of a game of Batman 66. Unfortunately the iPhone video doesn't capture the look as well as it looks in person.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Thank you so much for sharing and the detailed instructions. You nailed it! I’ve got a set of lights built for my next machine but after seeing this, it’s time for me to order a few more parts.
Quoted from HurryUpPinball:Thank you so much for sharing and the detailed instructions. You nailed it! I’ve got a set of lights built for my next machine but after seeing this, it’s time for me to order a few more parts.
Hi!
I wanted to check out your videos but you have them removed it sais. Can tou please re-upload them? Thx
Thought I would also post a breakdown of the net cost of each set of lighting rails, using the parts from HurryUpPinball with my WiFi and GI mods added to it. Obviously some of the items in the list are only ordered in larger quantities, so I just calculated their costs by dividing it down to cost per unit.
Image 7-30-20 at 9.15 AM (resized).jpgQuoted from AUKraut:hurryuppinball I hope I can help here....
Using your videos as a basis for the lighting rails I made, I wanted to have controllable GI lighting and WiFI control for my new lighting rails as well. I ordered the following items from Amazon:
Magic Home RGBW WiFi & IR controller:
amazon.com link »
Switch Driver Module:
amazon.com link »
5 Pin Connector:
amazon.com link »
First, the Magic Home controller is controlled by a free app in the iPhone and Android store, and can also be controlled from a certain premium stadium lighting app as well. Plugging it into the RGBW lighting strip it has to be configured in the app as a RGB & W device type instead of as a RGB / W device type to allow the white LEDs to be controlled separately from the RGB LEDs. That took care of the WiFi App Control...
For the controllable GI I concentrated on controlling the White LEDs. Using the switch driver module, I unsoldered & removed the screw terminals to be able to solder the connections directly. I snipped the 5 pin connector white and black wires and soldered these to the J2 inputs and J3 outputs of the module, Black to positive, White to negative. I then soldered a set of alligator clips with long wires to the control input J1 of the module. I then placed this assembly inline after the WiFi module before the Y connector going to the lighting strips. I then connected the alligator clips directly to a GI socket. Works perfectly, controlling the white LEDs in the strip to match the GI going on/dim/off.
In the app I have the white LEDs set to 100%, and the RGB LEDs set to 25% in a color that enhances the look of the playfield. This gives good lighting in a darkened room and the GI dimming effect. If one really wanted they could use 4 of the switch driver modules to control all RGBW, but I found that leaving the RGB LEDs in a dimmed mode is the right mix to go with the controllable white LEDs. I've attached some pics as well as a short video of the LEDs on, then dimmed, and then back on again at the start of a game of Batman 66. Unfortunately the iPhone video doesn't capture the look as well as it looks in person.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Interesting approach of having the switched relay inline to the white LEDs *after* the controller. I've read that some newer control modules will use a rapid cycling of power (on/off twice in succession) to reset themselves, which obviously wouldn't work well with flashing GI. Your approach completely avoids that issue. 
Those switch driver modules also look to be solid-state which will be more robust and longer lasting than the mechanical one I used on my Metallica project.
Nice work!
Quoted from Fytr:Interesting approach of having the switched relay inline to the white LEDs *after* the controller. I've read that some newer control modules will use a rapid cycling of power (on/off twice in succession) to reset themselves, which obviously wouldn't work well with flashing GI. Your approach completely avoids that issue.
Those switch driver modules also look to be solid-state which will be more robust and longer lasting than the mechanical one I used on my Metallica project.
Nice work!
Thanks....just building on the work others have done before me, like yourself!
Quoted from AUKraut:In the app I have the white LEDs set to 100%, and the RGB LEDs set to 25% in a color that enhances the look of the playfield. This gives good lighting in a darkened room and the GI dimming effect. If one really wanted they could use 4 of the switch driver modules to control all RGBW, but I found that leaving the RGB LEDs in a dimmed mode is the right mix to go with the controllable white LEDs.
First off, nice work! Been waiting for someone to figure this part out.
In regards to your example, I'm really not familiar with BM66 as it relates to the GI dimming. I'd be curious how your solution would look with games that intend to go dark, like Scared Stiff, or AFM for strobe multiball. I like the idea of adding a tinge of color to the white lighting (versus all the PS people that totally color-bomb their games), but I'm concerned about not being able to black out in certain games.
Quoted from Cheeks:First off, nice work! Been waiting for someone to figure this part out.
In regards to your example, I'm really not familiar with BM66 as it relates to the GI dimming. I'd be curious how your solution would look with games that intend to go dark, like Scared Stiff, or AFM for strobe multiball. I like the idea of adding a tinge of color to the white lighting (versus all the PS people that totally color-bomb their games), but I'm concerned about not being able to black out in certain games.
BM66 basically has 3 levels of GI: Full/Half/Off. Using this module basically mimics that to the white LEDs. Wish the iPhone video could capture it better, but it works well.
Keep in mind that every thing I've done with the Switch Driver Module can also be done with simple 2 connector White LED strips. If all you want is a single white LED lighting rail get this instead to go with the switch driver module:
Warm White LEDs
https://www.amazon.com/Non-Waterproof-Flexible-Kitchen-Cabinet-Included/dp/B00JQV6NNC/ref=sr_1_4
Single Color LED WiFi Controller
https://www.amazon.com/Single-Controller-Compatible-Assistant-Android/dp/B07VHBYP3Y/ref=sr_1_4
Some cable, connectors, and soldering to tie it all together with the switch driver module...and it will be an all warm white WiFi GI controlled lighting rail.
Quoted from PinPeet:Hi!
I wanted to check out your videos but you have them removed it sais. Can tou please re-upload them? Thx
Here is a link to my channel. Sorry for the broken link. Due to unforeseen circumstances, I had to edit and upload all my videos again.
YouTube Channel:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCzdHAPosu-ImTOht-WjUTAg
Light video link:
Short and long versions:
Quoted from AUKraut:If all you want is a single white LED lighting rail
No, I definitely like the idea of adding an RGB tint to the white lighting. I'm just wondering how games that are meant to go completely dark would end up looking with the colored GI still lit. Probably depends on the game and which RGB color is being used. Love your solution, just trying to weigh the pros/cons.
Quoted from Cheeks:No, I definitely like the idea of adding an RGB tint to the white lighting. I'm just wondering how games that are meant to go completely dark would end up looking with the colored GI still lit. Probably depends on the game and which RGB color is being used. Love your solution, just trying to weigh the pros/cons.
With his approach, if you didn't want the RGB to stay lit when the white goes out you simple wire in the same kind of switch controller for each of the coloured RGB wires as well, then all the colors and white will go on/off with the GI.
Quoted from AUKraut:Thought I would also post a breakdown of the net cost of each set of lighting rails, using the parts from hurryuppinball with my WiFi and GI mods added to it. Obviously some of the items in the list are only ordered in larger quantities, so I just calculated their costs by dividing it down to cost per unit.
[quoted image]
You are awesome thanks for doing this!
Quoted from HurryUpPinball:Here is a link to my channel. Sorry for the broken link. Due to unforeseen circumstances, I had to edit and upload all my videos again.
YouTube Channel:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCzdHAPosu-ImTOht-WjUTAg
Light video link:
Short and long versions:
Great! Thx
Some people are having issues opening the description on my light build videos where there is a detailed parts list. I have linked it below in case anyone needs it. This is for the basic lights. Be sure to check out the update AUKraut posted on how to make these WiFi compatible and tie them into the GI on a Stern game. Post #733.
Here is the parts list for the basic pinball lights
Led Light Kit w/Remote – RGBW – SMD5050 12V – 16.4 feet of LED
https://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-Flexible-SMD5050-Controller-Decoration/dp/B07CHGJNXG/
Black 5/8 x 5/8 x 1/16 Corner Guard – 36 inches – 4 pack
https://www.amazon.com/Outwater-Plastics-1934-Bk-Styrene-Moulding/dp/B07MCDS6M6/
LED 5-pin extension cables (4 pack - 2 needed)
https://www.amazon.com/3-28ft-Extension-wire%EF%BC%8Crgb-extension-cable%EF%BC%8Cled/dp/B07VBL8GXZ/ref=sr_1_7
LED 5-pin Y-splitter (2 pack - 1 needed)
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-divisor-conexi%C3%B3n-conector-5050-3528 RGBW/dp/B07D8LWW5G/ref=pd_bxgy_img_3/137-1723880-2644053?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07D8LWW5G&pd_rd_r=8039f5fd-c25e-4f0d-b9cf-2304100db52b&pd_rd_w=ryMcS&pd_rd_wg=3AUj8&pf_rd_p=ce6c479b-ef53-49a6-845b-bbbf35c28dd3&pf_rd_r=VZHAYXE9GKMTTDN9AKHV&psc=1&refRID=VZHAYXE9GKMTTDN9AKHV
Scotch 3M Extreme Double Sided-Tape – 400in x 1in
https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Extreme-Mounting-400-inches-414-LONGDC/dp/B00FUEN2GK/
Self-Adhesive Flexible Magnetic Tape – 100in x 1/2in
https://www.amazon.com/Self-Adhesive-Flexible-Magnetic-Length/dp/B079334W24/
Original Gorilla Glue – 2oz bottle
https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Original-Waterproof-Polyurethane-Bottle/dp/B0000DD5EN/
Blue Painters Tape
https://www.amazon.com/ScotchBlue-Painters-Multi-Use-1-88-Inch-60-Yard/dp/B00004Z4DU/
Cable Management Clips (for installing the lights)
https://www.amazon.com/HongWay-Adhesive-Organizer-Upgraded-Management/dp/B083XFVN6M/ref=sr_1_14
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